RIVA ('still Austria, but as Italian as an ice-cream man')
Frieda and DHL took the train from Trento to Mori, then took the branch line (now closed) to Riva, arriving on Wednesday 4th September 1912. Leaving their knapsacks at the station, they went in search of accommodation and, in a street then on the edge of town, found the guesthouse Villa Leonardi in Viale Giovanni Prati. ‘We’re in such a grand room’, writes Lawrence,
Indeed, the Villa Leonardi is quite gorgeous and palatial. The figs they send up, fresh gathered out of the garden, are a dream of bliss. Grapes and peaches are ripe—there are miles of vineyards and olive woods. The lake is dark blue, purple, and clear as a jewel, with swarms of fishes. And the boats have lemon-coloured sails. It’s an adorable lake. (Letter, 17 September 1912)
It was a bit too expensive for them, and they saved money by discreetly cooking in their room using the small spirit-stove (which they called the ‘kitchenino’) that they had used in the walk across the Alps.
Riva at this time was still in the Austrian Empire:
Riva is still Austria, but as Italian as an ice-cream man [...] Of course the soldiers are Austrian. Austria is funny—So easy going. The officials are all Chocolate Soldiers. They let you walk through the Customs with a Good day. (Letter, 17 September 1912)
It was a tourist and health resort especially for Austrians and Germans. The Von Hartungen sanatorium was frequented by Franz Kafka and, in 1901, the brothers Heinrich and Thomas Mann. Thomas Mann returned the following year to work on Tonio Kröger, and Heinrich came again in 1904, when he worked on Professor Unrat while staying at the Villa Leonardi, where Lawrence stayed eight years later.
Lawrence was enthusiastic about his first experience of the European south:
‘It is quite beautiful, and perfectly Italian—about 5 miles from the frontier. The water of the lake is of the most beautiful dark blue colour you can imagine—purple in the shade, and emerald green where it washes over the white rocks. F[rieda] and I have got a beautiful room, but it is too dear [...] There are roses and oleanders and grapes in the garden. Everywhere the grapes are ripe—vineyards with great weight of black bunches hanging in the shadow. It is wonderful, and I love it [...] They are ringing the sunset bell. The fear of money frets me a bit, that’s all [...] The lake is wonderful to swim in, and the fruit is a dream of cheapness and niceness.’
(Letter, 7 September 1912)
DHL had rewritten the first 75 pages of Sons and Lovers in Icking at the end of July, before crossing the Alps. He took it up again almost immediately in Riva, and by 11th September he was ‘working like Hell’ at it and said ‘F. hates me for it, because it divides my attention’. On his last day in Riva, 17th September, he was still working a away at it: ‘I’m inwardly very proud of it, though I haven’t yet licked it into form—am still at that labour of love’.
Riva was too expensive and perhaps too much of an established tourist resort for Frieda and DHL. They tried to find somewhere to stay at Torbole nearby but were unsuccessful and were relieved to find somewhere suitable further down the lake.