JANFPY98WD67
JANFPY98WD67
Original Article

tannertan36
Three Goblin Art
$LAYYYTER
noise dept.
Sade Olutola
TVSTRANGERTHINGS
Cosimo Galluzzi
Show & Tell
KIROKAZE
macklin celebrini has autism
cherry valley forever
Not today Justin
YOU ARE THE REASON
No title available
tumblr dot com
Mike Driver

PR's Tumblrdome

oozey mess

pixel skylines
ojovivo

seen from Ukraine
seen from India
seen from France

seen from United Kingdom

seen from Türkiye
seen from T1
seen from United States
seen from Iraq

seen from United Kingdom
seen from United States
seen from United States
seen from United Kingdom

seen from United States

seen from United States
seen from United Kingdom
seen from United States
seen from India
seen from United States
seen from United States
seen from United States
@dogency-blog
JANFPY98WD67
JANFPY98WD67
Original Article
Need help with my dog please read all?
My dog is a very active boxer/lab mix she is 5 yrs old and she has always slept with us on the bed which is a king size. But for the last week she has not been able to jump up on the bed and when i tried to put her on the bed she snapped which she never has ever done since with had her for 4 yrs. She is eating, drinking water, and go potty normally. If she isn't better by Thursday we are taking her to the vets. What has happened to her we want her back on the bed with us
Original Article
Brushing Your Dogs Teeth
Just as in humans, it is recommended that dog teeth cleaning be done professionally on a routine basis. Even if you clean your dog’s teeth regularly, a professional cleaning will help to deep clean your dog’s teeth and gums.
Dog teeth cleaning is something that is often overlooked, which can lead to teeth problems for your dog. Providing consistent care for your dogs teeth will avoid teeth and gum problems.
About 80% of dogs will have gum disease and other oral problems by age three. Teeth brushing will not only keep your dog’s teeth clean and breath fresh, but can help prevent a number of problems in the future.
Benefits of professional Cleaning
Tartar removal – Tartar is easily formed around the teeth. All it takes is a few days without cleaning to start building up. Tartar is caused by plaque deposits. If plaque is not removed, it will eventually turn into tartar and can only be removed by a professional. Brushing your dog’s teeth often will help prevent an overproduction of tartar.
Whiter teeth and fresh breath – If you have your dog’s teeth cleaned professionally, they will likely become whiter from the polishing and deep cleaning. Tartar causes the yellow-brown build up beneath the gums. Tartar and plaque also cause bad breath, and having your dog’s teeth cleaned professionally will help to manage your dog’s breath.
Preventing disease – An excess of tartar and plaque may lead to gum disease and gingivitis. If your dog’s teeth are neglected for too long, plaque and tartar build up may lead to more serious problems such as periodontal disease, tooth loss and rotten teeth. Bacteria from these conditions may enter your dog’s bloodstream and cause heart, liver and kidney problems.
Early detection of dental problems – It takes a professional to be able to really examine your dog’s teeth properly. A pet dental hygienist will inspect the teeth, gums and mouth of your dog. Dental problems can usually be detected and treated right away to avoid any serious pain or health problems.
How to clean your dogs teeth
When beginning teeth care at home, try to brush your dog’s teeth once or twice a week so he can get used to it. Once you get into a routine, it will be easier for you and your dog.
You can use either a toothbrush or a finger brush for cleaning your dog’s teeth. Test them out to decide which is best for you and your dog.
Find a comfortable position, and grab a hold of your dog’s muzzle. You need to be able to hold his lips up and away from the teeth for proper cleaning. Your dog will probably pull away the first few times you clean his teeth.
Brush in circular motions, just as you would your own teeth. Don’t scrub the teeth too hard!
Don’t forget to brush the back teeth and the gums as well. Using a toothbrush is best to reach the back teeth.
After you are done, give your dog some water. He will likely be thirsty from the toothpaste, and from having his mouth open while the teeth are being cleaned. It is important to note that you should never use human toothpaste on your dog. There are many options available at your local pet supply stores. Dental treats are also a great idea for your dog in between cleanings.
To learn more about dog teeth care, tips and information about dental problems, visit www.dogteethhelp.com
Original Article
Make your own healthy dog treats at home
Making your own homemade dog treats can be a fun reward for you dog. There are many benefits to making your own dog treats at home.
• Control what goes into the recipe. You can ensure that your pet is getting a nutritious and wholesome snack. You can also tailor your dog treat recipes to your dog’s taste preferences as well as cater to any dietary restrictions.
• Prevent unhealthy additives. Many brands of commercial dog treats are filled with preservatives, which help to extend their shelf life. In addition, store bought treats are often made from fillers and byproducts as opposed to natural and high quality ingredients. By creating your own treats at home, you will be able to provide your dog with a healthy snack that is not only nutritious but is also free of unhealthy additives.
• Tasty alternative. Making your own dog treats allows you to provide your pet with a tasty alternative to his usual doggie biscuit.
Quick Dog Treat Recipe Ideas
Here are a few quick and easy recipes for healthy and nutritious dog treats that you can make in the comfort of your home. Your dog will thank you for reading this!
Leftovers Trail Mix
Combine any of the following leftovers from your refrigerator to create a flavorful trail mix, which you can pack for a hike or after dog park snack
Ingredients • Pieces of meat (if seasoned, make sure to rinse off any flavoring) • Potatoes • Vegetables (no onions) • Fruit (no grapes or raisins)
Directions
1. Cut ingredients into ½ inch thick pieces 2. Spray lightly with cooking spray 3. Place in a food dehydrator or into a 200 degree preheated oven until dried
Frozen Peanut Butter Yogurt Dog Treats
The perfect snack to cool your pet down after a vigorous play session
Ingredients • 32 ounces vanilla yogurt • 1 cup peanut butter
Directions 1. Melt the peanut butter in a microwave safe bowl 2. Combine the yogurt and melted peanut butter 3. Pour the mixture into cupcake papers 4. Place in the freezer
Basic Dog Biscuits
These basic biscuits can be customized to cater to your canine’s palette
Ingredients • 2 ½ cups whole wheat flour (substitute regular flour or oats if your dog is sensitive to wheat) • 1 tsp. salt (or less) • 1 egg • 1 tsp. Beef or chicken Bouillon granules (can substitute beef or chicken broth/stock) • ½ cup hot water
Optional Add ins • Bacon or chicken broth, eggs, oats, liver powder, wheat germ, shredded cheese, bacon bits
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees 2. Dissolve bouillon in hot water 3. Add remaining ingredients 4. Knead dough until it forms a ball (approximately 3 minutes) 5. Roll dough until ½ inch thick 6. Cut into slices or bone shapes (you can purchase a bone shaped cookie cutter to make shapes with) 7. Place dough pieces on lightly greased cookie sheet 8. Cook for 30 minutes
Healthy Pumpkin Balls
This snack is not only delicious but is also filled with fiber, vitamin A, beta-carotene, potassium, and iron.
Ingredients
• 1/2 cup canned pumpkin • 4 tbsp molasses • 4 tbsp water • 2 tbsp vegetable oil • 2 cups whole wheat flour • ¼ tsp baking soda • ¼ tsp baking powder • 1 tsp cinnamon (optional)
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees 2. Mix pumpkin, molasses, vegetable oil, and water together in a bowl 3. Add the whole wheat flour, baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon to the mixture and stir until dough softens 4. Scoop out small spoonfuls of dough and roll into balls on your hands (wet hands work best) 5. Set the balls onto a lightly greased cookie sheet and flatten with a fork 6. Bake approximately 25 minutes until dough is hardened
Apple Crunch Pupcakes
A fruity treat your dog will adore
Ingredients
• 2 ¾ cups water • ¼ cup applesauce (unsweetened) • 2 tbsp honey • 1/8 tbsp vanilla extract • 1 medium egg • 4 cups whole wheat flour • 1 cup dried apple chips (unsweetened) • 1 tbsp baking powder
Directions
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees 2. Mix water, applesauce, honey, egg, and vanilla together in a bowl 3. Add remaining ingredients and mix until well blended 4. Pour into lightly greased muffin pans 5. Bake 1 ¼ hours
Some Things to Watch Out For
When preparing homemade dog treats, make sure you take into account any allergies that your pet has to specific ingredients. You will want to avoid adding any ingredient that you know that your pet has reacted poorly to in the past. If you are experimenting with new flavors, feed the treat to your dog in a small amount to see how he reacts to it before distributing an entire treat. Store your homemade dog treats in an airtight container and place them in the freezer. Allow the treat to thaw for 10 – 20 minutes prior to serving to your dog. Treats can last for up to 6 months in the freezer.
Original Article
The proper way and time to give your dog a treat
Giving dog treats is more than an expression of love for our dog; it can be a critical component in dog training and rewarding good dog behavior.
One of the reasons treats work so well in training, is because a dog’s sense of smell is so unbelievable. Dogs can smell a treat from over 20 yards away and can get a pretty good idea of the main ingredients. Not all treats are created equal though. Here are some tips for which healthy dog treats to give, how to give dog treats, and when to give dog treats.
How to use dog treats most effectively.
Use treats to reinforce a calm, submissive state. Never use dog treats to reward an excited, over-stimulated state of mind. Always let the dog smell the treat first, but hold it up away from her and wait. Remember dogs can smell from over 25 feet away so you don’t have to put the treat under her nose. Once the dog has the scent, she may jump around at first, and will probably jump on you. If so, indicate your disapproval with your attitude and body language and slowly move yourself back or to one side…and then wait. Remember, your moment of patience as an owner will pay off in a well-behaved dog for a lifetime.
After a while, your dog will probably begin to try to figure out what she needs to do to get the treat. She will lower her butt to the floor and wait while looking at you in quiet anticipation. At that precise moment of calm, give her the treat. Don’t use treats to reinforce an excited dog, but rather to command the calm, submissive state.
When to give dog treats.
In between meals is the ideal time to give treats. Choose a treat that your dog will enjoy. As a rule of thumb I save the best, most delectable treats for last, to reengage a dog if she begins to lose interest in the training session. If you are using treats as a training tool, your treat won’t work as well right after your dog has had a full meal. Make sure your treat giving occurs in between meals and not immediately before or after a meal.
Here is a good technique for giving treats. Hold the treat in your hand between the first two fingers and the thumb. Let your dog sniff so that she knows it is there, and remember Cesar's rule: nose first, then eyes, then ears! When you engage your dog’s nose, you are appealing to the most important part of her brain.
Next, as she is sniffing and getting interested, slowly lift the treat above nose height and move it gradually over her head and slightly back towards her shoulders. The aim is for your dog to lift her head up, move her shoulders back, and naturally have her butt lower to the floor.
Lift the treat slowly and easily so that your dog’s nose follows it in your hand. If she jumps at your hand, take it away. Next time, have the treat hand closer to her head. The moment she begins to follow the treat with her nose and eyes and her butt beings to move to the floor, say, “sit,” calmly and easily, and give her the treat. Use a natural voice as you don’t want to startle or distract her. Remember, one of Cesar's cardinal rules for training is “don’t overexcite your dog so that she loses the lesson in all the commotion.”
What ingredients to look for in a dog treat.
When choosing a dog treat, make sure it’s something your dog will like and something that’s appropriate to give a dog. When buying treats (and food) for dogs, it’s good to follow the same common-sense rules you’d use when shopping for your family. Look at the ingredients list. If the ingredients include things you don’t recognize or can’t pronounce, it might not be the best treat for your dog. Also, keep in mind your dog has a different palate than a human. You might not serve beef trachea at your next dinner party, but for your dog, it’s like filet mignon. I created a line of all natural beef treats that work for Cesar's pack. They are made with 100% USDA-inspected beef and don’t include artificial ingredients (they’re available at Pet Valu stores in the U.S. and Canada). Junior loves the liver bites and Coco would do almost anything for beef tendons.
Keep in mind, too, that human treats are not necessarily good for dogs. You’d think if a dog would like beef tendons, he’d probably go for a chocolate bonbon, but chocolate actually makes dogs sick. There are many things that we eat that dogs are allergic to or literally can’t stomach.
Ask the vet or local pet specialty store about dog treats.
Your veterinarian is a lot of things to your dog—doctor, dentist, pharmacist, and you can add nutritionist to that list. Your dog’s nutritional needs will vary based on age, breed, and other factors. Your vet can give you the best advice on what type of treats are best for your dog. If you don’t have access to a vet, try your local pet specialty store. I have found very knowledgeable sales help in local pet stores.
exercise and discipline before affection.
Remember, dog treats are a form of affection. They need to be given at the right time and for the right reasons. You can actually confuse your dog if you’re not consistent in how you administer treats. Make sure exercise and discipline come first and then affection.
Original Article
Q&A: Does the Thundershirt Really Work?
This question comes from Bruce R. from Wolcott, Connecticut.
Q: Does the Thundershirt work like it says it will? My little guy is scared out of his mind when the thunder rolls and the fireworks go off. And you can forget about going hunting!!!!!!!!!
A: From personal experience i can not say if it works in those specific situations other than thunder. Our dog who is a Black Lab has had issues with Thunder and also walking up stairs since he was a puppy. When he first came home he tried going up the stairs a little too fast and ended up falling down them. 6 years later he was still having issues. We tried everything from treats to just positive gestures like "good boy" every time he made it up. On average he would take about 5 minutes to get up the stairs starting with barking at them, then going up a few stairs, backing down them, going up the few stairs again, going back down, and then eventually he would just sprint up to the top. A Few weeks ago we decided to give the Thundershirt a try and to our surprise he began taking less and less time to go up the stairs and his hesitation lessened. Now that he has been using for a while he is now going up and down the stairs with ease as long as he is wearing it, but if you take it off then the only way he will walk up is if somebody is walking up next to him. In my opinion it definitely helps comfort your dog. Now as for thunder, the last storm we had he seemed a lot more relaxed. Typically he would go up into the bathroom and lay next to the bathtub as soon as the thunder started roaring, but this time he actually just lying down next to us as all watched TV and he did not seem upset at all. Could the response to it by every dog be different, yes. So it is hard to give you a definative answer, however i do recommend at least giving it a try as it has helped our dog with his anxiety.
Per the listing on the official website of Thundershirt, they also say it is good for these issues:
»  Fear of thunder/fireworks »  Separation anxiety »  Travel anxiety »  Crate training »  Problem barking »  Hyperactivity »  Leash pulling »  And more!
Original Article
Training Your Dog to Lay Down
Have dog sit in front of you.
Kneel down and hold a treat in your hand right near dog's nose.
Give the command DOWN or SIT DOWN in a friendly voice, avoiding yelling when are not getting it. Slowly bring the treat straight down keeping treat near the nose.
Praise abundantly and give him the treat for any slight movement towards a down postion. Be sure to say the word GOOD BOY/GIRL when praising.
Release dog.
Repeat for 5 minutes.
Original Article
Best Tips to Stop Your Dog From Barking
Remember, barking is natural! It's an important means of communication for dogs. But sometimes problems can develop. As the pack leader, it's your job to step in and control excessive barking. Here are Cesar's 5 tips to help you stop nuisance barking for good.
1. Correct dog problem behavior and follow through.
Tell your dog to stop barking using a look, a sound, or a physical correction. But don't stop there. Your dog may pause and then go right back to what he was doing. His body relaxed, but his brain was still on alert. Be patient. Wait until your dog completely submits before you go back to what you were doing.
2. Stay calm when trying to stop dog barking.
Constant barking can be irritating, but you won't be able to correct the dog behavior problem if you are frustrated. Animals don't follow unbalanced leaders. In fact, your dog will mirror your energy. If you're frustrated, he will be, too! And barking is a great release for that frustrated energy. Take a moment to curb your own internal barking first.
3. Stake your claim to stop the barking.
Is your dog barking over and over again at the same object, person, situation, or place? Then you need to step up and claim that stimulus as your own. Use your body, your mind, and your calm-assertive energy to create an invisible wall that your dog is not allowed to cross. Do it with 100% dedication and focus, and the results may surprise you.
4. Stop the barking by challenging your dog mentally and physically.
Excessive barking is often the result of pent-up energy. If this is the case, the solution is simple: release that energy in more productive ways. Does your dog receive a daily walk? Can you make the walk more challenging with a bicycle, a backpack, or by walking on an incline? Can you provide more mental challenges, such as herding, agility training, or simple obedience games? There are many, many ways to increase the challenges in your dog's life. Find one that you enjoy that your dog can participate in safely. When you brought this dog into your life, you made a commitment to provide the care he needs. Prevent dog barking, and other dog behavior problems by calling in a canine professional to help him cope with a behavior issue.
Original Article
The Basics: Teaching Your Dog How To Sit
So you just got your new puppy home and you want to start teaching him/her how to do some basic commands. The first one usually taught is "Sit" which if your having a little trouble, we are going to try and help you.
Follow These Basic Steps:
Stand in front of your dog.
Hold a treat right near your pet's nose, just out of his or her reach.
Slowly move the treat over your pup's head and toward his or her tail.
Say your dog's name (if you have more than one dog), and give the command "Sit."
Keep the treat at nose level. If the treat is held too high, the dog will jump.
Say the word "good" at the exact second the dog sits.
Praise abundantly and give your pet a treat for any movement that resembles the sit position.
Release your pet from the sit position with the "release" or "free" command.
Repeat until he/she starts to do immediately after you say "Sit", then give it a break for a while and come back and do it again. In time it will really get engraved into their head and they will do it with ease.
It is important not to push down on their butt to force them to sit as this can cause back and leg problems down the line. If you have to push at all for a little guidance, make sure it is not forceful at all.
Original Article
Tick Twister - Easy Tick Removal
Hook. Twist. Lift. It's that easy to remove ticks from your dog or cat. And it's safe too!
You won't end of leaving the head planted in the skin or have to squeeze the tick, and that reduces the chance of infection.
You don't have to use any chemicals either and it's fast and pain-free.
Tick twister works best when the tick is already engorged (had already fed), so it's big enough to safely remove.
If the tick is still feeding and not yet fully engorged, it's a little bit harder to get it off.
[jwplayer config="Custom Player" mediaid="125"]
If you would like to purchase the [amazon_link id="B000VUSV6Y" target="_blank" container="" container_class="" ]Tick Twister[/amazon_link]:
[amazon_enhanced asin="B000VUSV6Y" /]
Original Article
Heat Stroke in Dogs
During the warm months of the year, dogs can overheat and the condition is referred to as heat stroke. Dogs donât sweat all over their bodies like people do. Their primary way of regulating body temperature is through respiration (panting). Heat stroke can occur in dogs under several conditions such as being left in a car in hot weather, strenuous exercise in hot humid weather, and being left out in the sun without shade or water.
Symptoms of Heat Stroke in Dogs
The first signs of heat stroke are heavy panting and trouble or labored breathing. Other signs that may be seen are excess salivation, dry tacky pale gums, weakness, confusion, vomiting, diarrhea, and bleeding. The condition may progress to collapse, seizures, coma, or death.
Prevention of Heat Stroke in Dogs
The best way to prevent heat stroke is to make sure your dog has access to fresh water, adequate shade, and can retreat to a cool or air-conditioned area when necessary. Allowing your dog to become accustomed to hot weather and exercising them during the cooler times of the morning or evening is recommended.
Treatment of Heat Stroke in Dogs
When a dog suffers heat stroke it is a medical emergency and you should seek veterinary help as soon as possible. Depending on the circumstance it may be necessary to cool your dog down before you can get to a veterinarian. This can be done by pouring cool or tepid water (not ice cold) over the body. The additional use of a fan blowing cool air will also help.
It is important to note that dogs that suffer heat stroke can have delayed complications that may lead to death. But if you know what to watch for you can keep your dog safe. Henry Cerny has served on the board of the Nebraska Veterinary Medical Association. He practices at Yankee Hill Veterinary Hospital, in Lincoln.
Original Article
Safety Tips for Working Out with Your Dog
Exercising with your dog is a great way for the two of you to strengthen your bond and to get some cardiovascular in at the same time. While canine/human workouts can be fun, they can also be dangerous if proper safety precautions are not taken. Follow the tips below when working out with your dog to ensure that you both are safe:
1. Before exercising with your dog, make sure that he is physically fit enough to handle it.
Dogs should be evaluated by a veterinarian before starting a workout program. Also consider the dogâs age. Long distance workouts are not good for young and developing dogs and dogs that are too old may need to take it easy as well.
2. Do not just dive into an exercise routine.
Work your way into a more intensive workout regimen. Start slow and always warm up. Gradually build up your and your dogâs stamina before attempting long and hard workouts.
3. Consider your dogâs breed.
Some breeds are better equipped for harder exercise than others. Greyhounds, for example, do better with shorter sprints while pit bulls have a higher endurance and can tolerate longer distances.
4. Whether you are running, biking, hiking, walking, or rollerblading with your dog, make sure that he stays to one side of you the entire time.
Itâs essential that you train your dog to stick to one side of you and not to dart in front while exercising beside you. This could cause you to trip, which can result in injury to both of you. Dogs that pull on the leash can cause damage to their throat and can also throw you off balance.
5. Consider environmental factors before you workout. Running in the rain could be dangerous as it could cause you or your dog to slip and fall. During the summer, keep your workouts to early mornings or in the early evening, when the temperature is cooler. This will help you to avoid heat stroke, plus hot pavement can be uncomfortable on a dogâs feet. Avoid terrain that is uneven or rocky.
6. Stay hydrated. Carry water while exercising for lengthy periods.
This is especially crucial during warmer weather. If you have a long walk or hike planned, it can be a good idea to pack a few treats in order to keep your dogâs energy level up; you may even want to toss a granola bar in your backpack for yourself.
7. Donât tie the leash to your wrist.
This could cause injury to you or your dog if he makes an unexpected jerk. Consider a hands-free leash, such as [amazon_link id="B005HT011W" target="_blank" container="" container_class="" ]Cesarâs Dog Walking Utility Belt in Black[/amazon_link] or in[amazon_link id="B005D5YSNM" target="_blank" container="" container_class="" ]Blue [/amazon_link]for long distance walks or hikes. This is also convenient as it can also safely hold your keys, phone, and dog treats, making them easily accessible while you work out.
8. Use the proper safety equipment.
When biking or rollerblading with your dog, make sure to wear a helmet, kneepads, and other safety equipment. If youâre biking, it can be helpful to attach a Springer to your bicycle. This device fastens your dogâs leash to your bike and has a specially designed coil spring, which helps to absorb the force of a dogâs tug or lunge.
9. Donât push it too hard.
Keep your eye on your dog. If he shows any signs of exhaustion, pain, soreness, excessive panting, or has trouble breathing, youâve pushed it too far and itâs time to stop. Make sure to stop or slow down if you begin to feel tired or sore yourself. If you suspect youâve overdone it, take a few days off from working out before engaging in additional exercise with your dog.
10. After the workout.
Check your dogâs feet for cuts, scrapes, or signs of worn down pads. If you worked out in a grassy or woodsy area, check his fur for burrs, ticks, and other foreign objects. Make sure to give your dog plenty of water to replenish fluids lost during the workout. Allow your dog to rest properly in between exercise routines.
Source
Original Article
Tips for traveling with your dog
Bringing your dog on vacation with you just adds to the fun and alleviates the worry of not knowing whatâs happening with your dog while youâre on the road. You need to do your homework on dog travel though. Planes and cars arenât designed with dogs in mind, and you need to know what to expect when you reach your final destination. By planning your dog travel ahead of time, you can make the vacation a truly relaxing time for you and your dog. Here are my best dog travel tips to help make that happen:
Crating your dog for travel
Itâs natural to feel bad about crating your dog. After all, you wouldnât want to be crated. But donât project your feelings onto your dog. They donât mind the crate and some even feel safer in one.
The most important thing you can do is make sure your dog has been well exercised before he goes in the crate. If heâs burned off his excess energy, heâll be more inclined to rest.
Make sure thereâs nothing in the crate that can harm your dog. Leashes and loose collars are especially dangerous items that could present a strangling hazard.
Keep your energy positive. Donât present the crate like itâs a prison. Show the dog the crate and open the door. Donât shove the dog in the crate. Let him go into the crate on his own. When heâs inside and comfortable, you can close the door. Walk away with good energy and body language. If you affect a sad voice and say things like âDonât be sad. Mommy and Daddy will be back soon,â your dog is going to think somethingâs wrong and get anxious.
Come back in 15 minutes. This will ease the dogâs separation anxiety next time you crate him. But donât take him out of the crate. Remember that youâre not projecting that the crate is a bad thing. Just open the door and he can come out when heâs ready. See Cesar's video on how to crate your dog for travel.
Driving with your dog
Itâs usually a good idea to crate or harness your dog when riding in the car. Youâll be less distracted while driving which is safer for both of you. It also prevents your dog from becoming a projectile if you have to stop fast, also reducing the chance of injury for both of you. Speaking of projectiles, donât feed your dog a lot before the trip as they are prone to motion sickness. Donât feed your dog while youâre moving either. Wait until thereâs a break and you can give her a small snack, preferably high in protein. Itâs also good to spend a little time playing or walking during the break to get rid of some pent-up energy. And of course, donât leave your dog in a parked car, especially when itâs warm out. Even with the window cracked open, the car can quickly turn into an oven, and your dog will get dehydrated.
Taking your dog on an airplane
The first thing you need to do is check with the airline for their rules regarding pet travel. Many require a health certificate and may have other rules you havenât thought of that you donât want to be surprised with at the airport. Your dog will almost certainly be traveling in a crate and it will probably make everyoneâs lives easier if you crate your dog before you enter the chaos of the airport.
As with car travel, itâs smart not to start the trip on a full stomach or bladder (dogs should fast for at least 6 hours before the trip) and to make a pit stop as close to the departure time as possible. However, make sure your dog has access to waterâenough to keep hydrated but not full.
If your dog isnât flying with you in the main cabin, donât have a big goodbye scene. Youâll only upset your dog. If youâre calm, heâll be calm.
To medicate or not to medicate your dog
With almost as large a selection of pharmaceuticals as humans, it may be tempting to medicate your dog with a sedative or calmative for the trip. I donât recommend medicating your dog. You donât want to start a pattern that ends with a reliance on pills for you or your pet. You possess all the tools to keep your pet calm with your voice, attitude, and body language.
Keeping your dog calm during travel
Make sure you bring your dogâs blankie or his favorite stuffed animal, toy, boneâany item which is familiar to your dog and will comfort and relax him.
For a little extra calm, try rubbing a little lavender oil between your hands and give your pet a little aromatherapy or deep tissue massage at the beginning of your dogâs spine or base of her head.
Staying in a hotel with your dog
As with flying, a little preemptive research is in order. Does the hotel youâre considering even allow pets? Better to find out before you arrive. Pet-welcoming hotels like Best Western will be prepared for your visit, and can even recommend parks, hikes, and other dog-friendly activities. At other hotels, the only thing fit for a dog is the Continental breakfast. It can also be embarrassing if your dog barks or howls in the new room. Donât inadvertently encourage the barking with affection. Stay calm and assertive and take him out for some exercise to calm him. Go on a long walk once you reach the hotel
A recently exercised dog will be in a more relaxed state during any long trip. Your dog may growl at strangers and thatâs ok. Itâs natural for your dog to be a little nervous around new people. Sheâs out of her element and may growl. This isnât because sheâs being aggressive, but because sheâs a little freaked out and needs reassurance that everythingâs under control. If you pull her away from the new person, youâre indicating that there is something wrong and sheâll freak out more. Again, be calm and assertive and show your dog that youâve got it covered.
How to enter the hotel room with your dog
Now you are ready to go to your hotel room. Enter first. Get the dog to stay where he is. Donât let him wander around or heâll assume control of the situation. While you are unpacking, showering, or making phone calls, he is waiting. The only one who should move in the environment is youâuntil you are ready, then you initiate activity. Itâs important that your scent is everywhere before the dog settles in.
Exploring a new place
Youâre away from home and that means a lot of new sights, smells, sounds, and potential food items for your dog. Make sure youâre vigilant wherever you go about whatâs around, especially in the area of things your dogs could ingest. Also, especially around the holidays, there may be a lot of lights, decorations, and snout-level treats that can be distracting or dangerous for your pooch. Keep an eye on him and the new place.
Balanced dogs make better travel companions
There is no specific breed or size of dog that naturally travels better than another, but an unstable dog will not make a good travel companion. Always nurture a balanced state of mind in your dog, and you will create a more pleasant traveling experience for both of you!
Can't bring your dog along?
Find a good substitute pack. In a kennel, your dog should be immediately adopted as a member of the pack. The staff should be able to get your dog focused on what is there for him â and not leave him mourning over the fact that you left. It is a big deal for a dog to detach himself from a pack. The new pack should equal or better the pack he just left.
Traveling with a dog can be a fun experience for both of you. Just remember to be as prepared as possible wherever you go. The more homework you do on dog travel, the fewer surprises there will be. Donât forget to make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise and above all, of course, be calm and assertive. A balanced dog makes the best travel companion.
Original Article
Step-by-Step Tick Removal Instructions
Step 1âPrepare its Final Resting Place
Throwing a tick in the trash or flushing it down the toilet will not kill it, and itâs actually best to hold on to it for a while for veterinary testing in case your pet falls ill from the bite. Be ready with somewhere to put the tick after youâve removed itâthe best option is a screw-top jar containing some rubbing alcohol.
Step 2âDonât Bare-Hand It
Put on latex or rubber gloves so youâll never have direct contact with the tick or your petâs bite area. Ticks can carry infective agents that may enter your bloodstream through breaks in your skin or through mucous membranes (if you touch your eyes, nostrils or mouth).
Step 3âGrab a Partner
You donât want your pet squirming away before youâre finished, so if possible, have a helper on hand to distract, soothe or hold her still.Step 4âThe RemovalTreat the bite area with rubbing alcohol and, using a pair of tweezers, grasp the tick as close to the animalâs skin as possible. Pull straight upwards with steady, even pressure. Place the tick in your jar.
Do not twist or jerk the tick! This may leave the mouth-parts embedded in your pet, or cause the tick to regurgitate infective fluids.
Do not squeeze or crush the body of the tick, because its fluids (saliva and gut contents) may contain infective organisms.
OR use the [amazon_link id="B000VUSV6Y" target="_blank" container="" container_class="" ]Contech Tick Twister Pro[/amazon_link]Â which gives you a much better chance of removing the tick without breaking off the head.
Step 5âAll that Remains
Sometimes, in spite of doing everything right, a tickâs mouth-parts will get left behind in your petâs skin. If the area doesn't appear red or inflamed, the best thing to do is to disinfect it and not to try to take the mouth-parts out. A warm compress to the area might help the body expel them, but do not go at it with tweezers.Step 6âClean UpThoroughly disinfect the bite site and wash your hands with soap and water (even though you were wearing gloves). Sterilize your tweezers with alcohol or by carefully running them over a flame.Step 7âKeep WatchOver the next few weeks, closely monitor the bite area for any signs of localized infection. If the area is already red and inflamed, or becomes so later, please bring your petâand your jarred tickâto your veterinarian for evaluation.
Tips & Warnings
You may notice a bump or redness of the skin after you've removed a tick from your dog. This type of reaction is caused by the tick saliva.
Hydrocortisone spray for dogs and cats is available in most pet stores.
Never use your fingernails to remove or dispose of a tick. Doing so can put you at risk of contracting disease.
Don't apply Vaseline, a hot match or alcohol. These may cause the tick to place more disease-carrying saliva into your dog's skin.
Original Article
How to puppy proof your home
The process of preparing your house for your new bundle of joy will begin before he arrives. Take time to make your house a safe and comfortable environment for your little pup. Remember, unlike a newborn baby, your pup will be old enough to walk around and explore on his own. Even if you confine him to a crate, there will be times when he's allowed to roam the house and yard free.
Puppy Proofing Inside the House Before you bring your new pup home, take a look at your house through his eyes. Get down on your hands and knees, and begin looking at your house the way a pup would. What would he find interesting enough to chew or put in his mouth? Which corners would he be attracted to? If you have cabinets in your house with loosely hinged doors, would he be able to accidentally enter one and lock himself in? Are there electrical switches or plugs installed at floor level?
Electrical cords dangling temptingly within reach of your pup can be too alluring to ignore. Tuck these away, and duct tape electrical switch outlets that are at his level.
Make sure cabinet doors have locks, or purchase cabinet locks for these. Most of the time house cleaners, solvents, bleach and other potentially dangerous chemicals are stored in these cabinets, and these can prove a poison hazard to your puppy.
Your puppy might have difficulty navigating your stairs. Purchase [amazon_link id="B003VNKLHA" target="_blank" container="" container_class="" ]baby gates[/amazon_link] and use these to seal off the staircase.
Puppies and shoes have an unspoken bond between them. You might not know it, but your puppy could swallow shoelaces as he chews on your shoes. Keep your shoes in a shoe rack with doors.
Drawstrings hanging from draperies can choke your puppy if he manages to get it tangled around his neck.
Until your pup is house trained, keep all knick knacks, ash trays, curios and crystal out of his reach.
Remove your children's toys from the floor, small toys like cars or blocks can be swallowed, and can lead to perforation of the abdomen.
Keep you garbage can closed with a lid at all times . Pups are notoriously fond of rummaging in garbage, even when there's good fresh food available at home. It's a part of the wild instinct that remains in them and there isn't a lot you can do to curb this urge. But you can keep them away from the sources of decaying organic matter. Eating rotting food can cause food poisoning and other serious illnesses.
Keep your bathroom door latched at all times from the outside when not in use.
Keep your basements off limits for your puppy. The basement or garage is home to a lot of junk and is full of potentially harmful things that can harm your pet.
Keep your children's pencils, erasers, crayons and other stationery off limits by putting these in a large bin, and placing on a table so he can't reach it.
Keep your cosmetics and make up off your dressing table, and safely tucked away in drawers and locked cabinets.
Keep medicines away from doggy level. Pills, bottles and strips - make sure all are safely locked away in cabinets.
Puppy Proofing Outside the House
If your garden is full of exotic plants, it's probably best if you keep it off limits to your pup. Consult your vet about the types of plants that could cause him harm. Plants like cactus and mushroom are potentially dangerous for a pup.
If you use fertilizers or pest repellents on your lawn or in your garden, leave a gap of 48 hours before you allow your pet access to the area.
Make sure your fence is secure especially near the ground, to prevent the possibility of your pup sneaking out through to the other side.
Keep your pet away from your garage - there are too many old paint cans and tools there for it be safe for him.
Remember, a puppy is attracted to most of the same things a toddler or a crawling baby is. Use this logic to figure out what other potential dangers could be lurking in your home and garden.
Original Article
One method on how to House Train your puppy
If you've just become the owner of a brand new pup, the first item on your agenda is, no doubt, house training. Pups need to eliminate as many as six times a day, and the sooner you begin the house training process, the less damage your carpets and furnishings will suffer! Take heart, though. House training a puppy is easier than house training an adult dog. Prepare to invest some amount of time and effort into house training your puppy. If you can't spare time for house training, you should seriously reconsider your decision to get a dog. House training will require conditioning techniques, and will call for some effort on your part. If your pup grows into adulthood without being trained, you're relegating him to a life chained in your backyard, which is unfair to the dog.
The best training tool to begin the house training process is a crate. Get your dog a small wire mesh crate that is the perfect size for your little pet. Make sure that the crate is big enough to accommodate increases in size over the next few weeks, and small enough that he doesn't find a small corner of the crate to relieve himself in.
Initially, keep your dog in the crate for short periods of time, taking him out to the yard at regular intervals to get him to eliminate. If he does, lavish him with praise and giver him a reward. if he doesn't, take him back to the crate. Continue with this till you can see a pattern emerging. Over a period of days, your dog's toilet schedule will become clear. Being confined to the crate will help your dog learn to retain his urine and feces for longer periods of time.
Don't keep him confined for too long, however. If he relieves himself in the crate, it might set your training back by a few weeks. This is the part where you will need to invest time in - removing him from his crate at regular intervals, and taking him to the yard.
Always remember to reward any elimination. Good dog training involves not punishing any accident, however. All dogs have accidents along the way, and swatting his head with a newspaper or rubbing his nose in his own mess only makes your dog frightened to eliminate in your presence, which brings you back to square one, as far as potty training is concerned.
When there is an accident, clean it up, and make a note of the time. Have a toilet schedule in which you can write down the times in the days during which your dog urinated or defecated, so you'll have a better idea of what to expect.
Expect house training to continue over a period of time. This can be one of the hardest things to teach a dog, and a little patience and perseverance will go a long way.
Continue house training even at night. Your puppy has a smaller bladder and bowels, and will need to eliminate more often than an adult dog. Make a midnight potty run with your dog to establish elimination habits at night.
When there are accidents, show your disapproval immediately. Dogs don't have long-term memory when it comes to their daily routine. When they eliminate inside the house, they forget what they have done almost immediately. So, if you find a mess in the house, and go looking for him to reproach him 10 minutes after he's actually done the deed, all angry at him and flustered, he has no idea what you're mad about because he just does not remember. Your dog doesn't have accidents to annoy you - on the contrary, dogs exist to make their owners happy. As an owner, its your responsibility to train your dog to behave the way you want him to. He'll be more than happy to oblige, if you just teach him right.
Another disadvantage of showing disapproval late is you risk establishing whatever behavior he was engaged in at that exact moment as undesirable. If he was drinking water from his bowl, and you barge in angry at his accident, he connects your disapproval to his drinking water. So, now he's completely clueless about what you want!
When your dog is out of the crate, watch out for tell-tale signs of potty time. A dog who needs to urinate will walk round and round in circles, sniffing. When he exhibits this kind of behavior, stop whatever you're doing and take him outside.
Accidents will certainly happen. The only time it is acceptable to shout is if you catch the puppy in the act of sniffing in a corner, or beginning to circle as if to squat, or actually squatting. You shout "NO", and then immediately run to him and pick him up and take him outside where he should be eliminating. Remember more praise when he does go outside.
If you canât catch your dog in time and find the accident later, do not drag your dog back to the spot and rub his nose in it. He has no memory of doing it and dragging him back will only scare him.
You'll want to eliminate the odor immediately If your puppy can smell the spot he will be drawn to it again. Secondly, try to figure out what you did wrong. Was he just fed? Get up from a nap? Playtime? Understanding what your puppy was doing before he went will help you plan for the next time.
If you keep you puppy in a crate at night, first thing in the morning, before you take care of any of your own needs, go to the carrier, and take your puppy outside. Stand with him as he eliminates, and praise him. After he eats, pick up the bowl, and take him back outside and see if he has to go again. Donât forget to keep the praise up. After he is done, plan on around 15 minutes of good exercise outside.
If you stay at home, try to pay attention to your dogs activities. If you are at work, try to get someone like a friend to do this midday feeding and elimination schedule. Mid afternoon, another bathroom and exercise break. Dinner should be around 5-6 PM, so that the pup has several hours in which to empty himself out before bedtime. Take him out just before you go to bed. Lastly, put him in the crate for the night. You can also try paper training.
You will know things are going well when your puppy begins to ask to go outside. Pay attention to your dog. If you ignore him, or don't understand what he is trying to tell you, he will continue to have accidents even though he knows where he should be going. This signal usually starts to be given after 1-2 weeks of consistent housetraining techniques. Once he is regularly asking to go outside, you don't have to accompany him each time.
You can consider your pup to be housetrained if he goes 4-8 weeks without any accidents in the house. Then, you have the option of leaving food down all the time, and letting him free-feed, and also of not using the carrier, and letting him sleep wherever your would like him to.
If you're having a hard time with your housetraining or simply want some more advice, consider one of the best and very easy to use books on the subject, [amazon_link id="0470476370" target="_blank" container="" container_class="" ]Housetraining for Dummies[/amazon_link]. This book, by Susan McCullough has helped thousands of puppy owners house break their dog.
Original Article
Do Thundershirts Work for Dogs?
Thundershirts can be very effective in reducing anxiety in dogs, but you need to know how to use thundershirts correctly with your dog, so they don't provoke more anxiety. In this video Cesar demonstrates the proper use of the Thundershirt.
Original Article