Dr Bry Skin Beauty BLOG

Not a typical beauty junkie, Cosmetic R&D scientist in profession, freelance make-up artist, beautician and blogger. I always have passions in developing skincare products and resolving skin’s problems of my friends. This blog is a place for me to share my knowledge with you. There are too many over-claim and over-price skincare products in the market. And often, too many self-proclaim skincare expert or beauty junkie that giving wrong advices. My discussion is based on my current scientific knowledge for fair, un-bias, objective driven review.

[drbry-blog1]

It took me almost 1 year to improve my skin. I used to be acne-prone, with lots of acne scar and pigmentation. feel good having bare skin and without the need to photoshop!

my little secret?  #ortea #whitemallow & #acnefix   @ https://www.soffie.shop

[thissisrayy]

Steam the Shit out of your face!

I love steaming my face. It leaves my skin feeling soft, and gives me a glow. Here is why you should steam your face too! Steaming your face will literally steam the Shit out of your face that you don’t want.

Benefits

Cleanses pores

Increases blood circulation

Gets rid of toxins

Promotes relaxation

Gives a skin a glow

Here are the directions:

1.       Grab a pot and fill it with water

2.       Wash face

3.       Bring the water to a hot temperature where you can see steam come from pot

4.       Add any oils to the hot water

5.       You can either pour the water into a bowl or leave water in pot

6.       Lean your head over the pot or bowl for 5-10 mins with a towel over your head

7.       Exfoliate, tone and moisturize

8.       Steam your face once or twice a month

Please be careful while following these instructions

[drbry-blog1]

I love steaming too! especially with some Bulgarian lavender oil mix a little bit of tuberose oil!

[drbry-blog1]

Cystic Acne

Cystic acne is one of the most difficult types of acne to treat. Though it is most likely caused by the same bacteria (p. acnes) as regular acne, cystic acne lesions are far more painful and have more risk of scarring compared to mild or moderate acne.

Why is cystic acne so hard to treat? Cystic acne lesions actually rupture beneath the surface of the skin, pushing the blockage and swollen contents beyond the reach of traditional, topically-applied anti-acne products. Many dermatologists regard cystic as the most severe type of acne, and, many admit that traditional acne treatments are largely ineffective. Due to the slow healing time of cystic acne lesions, the potential for scarring and the extent of damage is something to take seriously. It’s especially important to be informed about potential triggers and treatment options—otherwise, you’re likely to make matters worse and even more painful.

What Causes Cystic Acne? Like almost every type of acne, the cystic variety is triggered by hormones. With cystic acne, for reasons unknown, the skin’s oil glands become hypersensitive to excess male hormones (women have male hormones that trigger acne), and react by overproducing sebum (an oily substance produced by the body to lubricate and waterproof skin). The amount of sebum produced is so excessive that the oil gland itself becomes engorged, swollen, and hardened with the excess. Unable to push almost any of the extra oil to the surface, the gland bursts underneath the skin, creating the large swollen mass (called a nodule or cyst) below the skin’s surface. Once that occurs, you are officially dealing with this terribly painful and unsightly type of acne. Although not a lot is known about what causes some people to get cystic acne, there is likely a genetic component involved. Given the strong hormonal component, it is most likely to occur during these times or if certain disorders are present: • The onset of puberty (when hormones go bonkers) • Pregnancy • Menstrual cycle • Perimenopause and menopause • Polycystic ovary syndrome (a condition caused by a hormonal imbalance in a woman’s ovaries)

What Does Cystic Acne Look Like? • Cystic acne nodules appear as raised, red bumps that extend deep beneath the skin. • Generally they do not have a “whitehead” showing, but this is not always the case. • They are almost always painful to the touch, or even when not touched. • Cystic acne lesions are usually felt beneath the skin before they are seen. The unique appearance of a cystic acne lesion is due to the acute damage to the oil gland causing intense inflammation and irritation which leads to redness, soreness, and swelling. Because of the depth of these lesions, squeezing or picking can be completely ineffective and can actually extend the lesion’s healing time (from days to weeks), not to mention increasing the risk of permanent scarring.

How Can I Treat Cystic Acne? There is no way to completely avoid cystic acne (you’re either prone to it or you’re not), but there are ways you can minimize its occurrence while doing what’s best for your skin – and it doesn’t need to involve using drying, irritating products. As with all types of acne, the first place to start is with over-the-counter products and common sense skincare tips: • Keep your skincare routine as simple as possible and follow it religiously. • Use a gentle, but effective water soluble cleanser twice a day (drying, harsh cleansers only make matters worse). • Avoid bar cleansers (the ingredients that keep bar soap in bar form can clog pores). • Exfoliate once or twice a day with a salicylic acid (BHA) based exfoliant to reduce redness and swelling, help reduce bacteria in the pore, and exfoliate on the surface and inside the pore to improve oil flow. • Apply benzoyl peroxide to kill the bacteria in the pore (be sure the benzoyl peroxide product you choose contains no irritants such as menthol or alcohol which will increase redness and inflammation). • Never use thick moisturizers (especially creams) in the areas where any type of acne occurs (these can clog pores). Stick with lightweight options with gel or lotion textures.

The bad news it that for some people with cystic acne, traditional therapy using over-the-counter acne products may be of little help. If over-the-counter options aren’t successful after at least four weeks of daily treatment, your next step is to see a dermatologist. Here are the treatment options your dermatologist can offer, ranked in ascending order of their potential for side effects:

• Photodynamic Therapy (PDT): Recent research points to the promising results that cystic acne sufferers have found through a series of PDT treatments, which is a procedure that involves topical application of a photosensitizing cream and repeated, controlled blue or red LED light exposure. Though treatment takes several visits to a dermatologist over the span of a few months (and carries a high price tag), there’s enough evidence to suggest that these treatments shrink the oil glands, reduce the amount of oil in the pores and kills the bacteria, all of which can minimize cystic acne breakouts.

• Oral Antibiotics: There are several types of oral antibiotics available for those with acne. All of them are worth discussing with your dermatologist and are options for short-term use under a doctor’s care. Side effects include, but are not limited to, dizziness, headache, nausea, rash, and gastrointestinal issues such as diarrhea and abdominal pain. The rise of sulfa-based antibiotics (such as Bactrim) to manage acne is due to the development of bacterial resistance to more commonly prescribed antibiotics (such as tetracycline). For best results, oral antibiotics should be used with topical products formulated to treat acne.

• Hormone Therapy: For some women constant over production of androgens (hormones that produce male traits) is the chief culprit for causing cystic acne. There is a good deal of research showing that drugs (including some oral contraceptives) which block the production of androgens can be incredibly helpful.The downside is that these prescription drugs are not without side effects (which must be discussed with your physician). To reduce side effects, anti-androgen medications (an example would be spironolactone) are generally prescribed in low dosages.

• Isotretinoin: Isotretinoin (formerly prescribed as Accutane) is an oral medication that directly affects the oil gland, literally changing its shape and stopping the flow of oil. Results can be immediate and lasting. Unfortunately, isotretinoin is associated with serious side-effects that must be taken into consideration. Risk to a fetus if you become pregnant, overly dry skin, hair loss, nose bleeds, liver function problems, and headaches are some of the more notable you should be aware of. Despite the risks, isotretinoin remains the only potentially permanent cure for cystic acne

Summing up, cystic acne is the most difficult type of acne to treat due to the depth of the breakouts and damage to the oil gland itself. Although over-the-counter acne products can be helpful for some with cystic acne, almost everyone dealing with this type of acne will need to seek help from a dermatologist. A consisent routine of anti-acne skincare along with topical and, possibly, oral prescription medications can get cystic acne under control and reduce its potential to leave permanent scars.

[drbry-blog1]

Chemical Peeling

Chemical peels involve applying a type of “chemical agent” to the skin for the purposes of exfoliating sun-damaged, thickened surface skin while stimulating collagen production for firmer skin. The popularity of chemical peels lessened when lasers became the accepted method for treating wrinkles and brown spots but in balance, depending on the amount of wrinkling present and desired results, chemical peels still play a significant role in skin resurfacing.

What Do Peels Contain? Peel solutions most typically contain either alpha hydroxy acids (an AHA such as glycolic acid, lactic acid), beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid, also known as BHA), tricholoracetic acid (TCA), or phenol as the exfoliating agent. Each of these are categorized by the concentration and the resulting depth of the peel on the skin which can range from superficial (also known as micro or light peels) to medium or deep peels. Results are closely linked to the depth of peel performed. Superficial peels (typically those using low concentrations of AHA or BHA) offer far less dramatic improvement than medium or deep peels (usually TCA or phenol-based) do. Overall, you can expect minor to major improvement in fine lines and wrinkles, skin discolorations, skin texture, rebuilding of collagen, removal of blackheads, and a temporary reduction in excessive oil production

What Can a Peel Do…and Not Do? With any peel it is important to know what’s possible so you can keep your expectations realistic and spare yourself disappointment. Chemical peels in any form cannot remove or reduce the appearance of blood vessels on the skin, they cannot change the appearance of enlarged pores, they do not have an effect on keloidal (raised) scarring, they do not work as a face-lift, and they have limited benefit for improving skin discoloration for those with darker skin color. They can make skin smoother, help fade brown spots and an uneven skin tone from sun damage, and generally make skin’s surface look fresher and younger. Having peels done on a regular basis (say, every 6-8 weeks) will lead to collagen stimulation that improves the appearance of wrinkles.

There are definite drawbacks to consider with peels, but this is largely dependent on the type and depth of peel. Superficial peels have few associated risks but also offer less noticeable results. Some redness, swelling, and increased skin sensitivity can occur with superficial peels. You may also experience a period of intense flaking as the old, damaged skin is replaced by fresh, smooth new skin.

When significant results are desired, complications increase proportionately. Medium and deep peel complications can include scarring, infection, temporary or permanent changes in skin color (this is especially true for deeper peels), and cold sore breakouts for those with a history of cold sores. For these reasons, many cosmetic dermatologists are forgoing deeper peels in favor of what can be accomplished more safely with light-emitting and laser devices.

Chemical peels are performed by the application of the specific solution that actually dissolves the skin’s top layers, either over the entire face or on specific areas. Often, several shallow to medium-depth peels can achieve similar results to one deep-peel treatment, with less post-procedure risk and a shorter recovery time. Talk to your dermatologist about this option and see if it may be the best approach to take.

AHA Peels Alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) peels use glycolic acid as the peeling ingredient and these are considered superficial to medium peels depending on the concentration utilized. Typically the concentrations range from 30% to 70%. AHA peels are effective in improving skin texture, causing some collagen and elastin rebuilding, minimally reducing the appearance of acne scarring, and reducing the appearance of skin discolorations. Repeated treatments are necessary for all concentrations to maintain results.

Important Note: AHA peels are not medical procedures and as a result are not regulated by the FDA. A physician usually performs higher-concentration peels (more than 30%), but this is not always the case. Lower-concentration peels (20% to 30%), often performed by aestheticians, require repeated treatments to achieve and maintain the results seen immediately after the peel is performed. After any peel, the practitioner should apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen (preferably one whose only active ingredients are titanium dioxide or zinc oxide) to your skin. Skin will be sun-sensitive for a few weeks after the peel, and it makes sense to use sun protection to protect the investment you just made. Don’t bother with peels if you insist on getting a tan, either from the sun or from a tanning bed. A reputable, ethical dermatologist would never offer a peel to someone who is visibly tan or cannot commit to daily sun protection.

BHA Peels Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) or salicylic acid peels are not as popular as AHA peels, yet they can be equally effective and have specific advantages for some skin types. A salicylic acid solution can work in a way that is similar to a glycolic acid peel, but irritation may be reduced. Salicylic acid is a compound closely related to aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), and it retains its aspirin-like anti-inflammatory properties. A deep BHA peel can be superior for many skin types because the irritation and inflammation are kept to a minimum due to the analgesic action of the BHA compound. Salicylic acid is also lipid soluble; therefore, it is a good peeling agent for blemish-prone skin with blackheads. The most common concentrations used today are 20% to 30% BHA peels are also the preferred option for those with sensitive skin, including skin affected by rosacea. Note that some people with rosacea cannot tolerate salicylic acid. If you have rosacea, consider experimenting with a skincare product that contains salicylic acid before considering a BHA peel.

TCA Peels Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels (sometimes called Blue Peel) in concentrations up to 50% are superficial to medium peels and have been around for years with a history of being effective and safe (Source: Dermatologic Clinics, July 2001, pages 413–425). This type of peel can be used for peeling the face, neck, hands, and other areas of the body. It has less bleaching effect than phenol (see below) and is excellent for “spot” peeling of specific areas. TCA peels are best for fine lines but are minimally effective on deeper wrinkling

Phenol Peels Phenol is sometimes, though rarely, used for full-face peeling when sun damage or wrinkling is severe. It can also be used to treat limited areas of the face, such as deep wrinkles around the mouth, but it may permanently bleach the skin, leaving a line of demarcation between the treated and untreated areas that must be covered with makeup. “Although phenol produces the most remarkable resolution of actinic damage and wrinkling among the various [chemical peels]… it also possesses some of the more significant [serious side effects]. Many have abandoned phenol in favor of other agents or laser resurfacing… .

Hypopigmentation may occur in all skin types, noticeably lightening patients with darker skin and making lighter-skinned patients appear waxy or pale. A clear line of demarcation may be present between treated and untreated skin”

Buffered phenol offers yet another option for severely sun-damaged skin. One such formula uses olive oil, among other ingredients, to diminish the strength of the phenol solution. Another, slightly milder formula uses glycerin. A buffered phenol peel may be more comfortable for patients, and the skin heals faster than with a standard phenol peel, but it is still a risky procedure that can depigment the skin

What About At-Home Peels? Many women ask us about the number of peels sold online for use at home. These peels often advertise having high concentrations of AHAs or BHA and some contain other peeling agents along with these popular standbys. We cannot stress enough how potentially dangerous these peels can be. If they’re as effective as claimed or if they really contain the amount of acid(s) advertised and the pH is within range for them to work, you could be setting your skin up for some serious damage. In the wrong hands or used incorrectly or too often, at-home peels can cause burns, extremely sensitive skin, discolorations (from loss of pigment), and persistently dry, flaky skin that doesn’t respond to even very rich moisturizers. If you decide to ignore our warnings and try this anyway, proceed with caution.

The other issue with at-home peels is that despite the impressive claims in terms of amount of acid they contain, the pH may be buffered beyond the range needed for efficacy. So yes, the peel you’re considering contains 50% glycolic acid, but because the pH when mixed is above 4, you’re not going to see much in the way of results. The good news? A higher pH like this means the peel poses less risk of causing excess irritation.

The Final Decision Whether to have a peel and what type to get depends on the condition of your skin, your skin type, and keeping your expectations realistic. Most important is for you to know that a peel isn’t an anti-aging cure-all. For example, peels cannot help with sagging skin and they don’t replace the results possible from cosmetic corrective procedures such as Botox or any of the numerous dermal fillers.

Peels are helpful for improving skin tone, texture, and for some cases of hyperpigmentation (brown spots) but for best results, they must be accompanied by daily use of a well-formulated sunscreen rated SPF 25 or greater along with a brilliant anti-aging skincare routine. Now that’s a beautiful combination proven to help you look younger, longer!

[drbry-blog1]

Sensitive Skin

For those living with sensitive skin, the struggle to find the right products is absolutely real. Every sensitive skin sufferer has tales of cleansers, serums, and moisturizers that worked for a time and then turned on them; or worse, horror stories of costly products that resulted in instant irritation and a trip to the trash. Good news: There are a few rules you can follow when shopping for skin care to reduce your risk of a flare up.

First, let’s talk about what “sensitive skin” really means. “If you get frequent irritations from many different skincare ingredients, then you have sensitive skin,” explains Dr. Neal Schultz. “But it has to be all three: FREQUENT, MANY, and DIFFERENT. Most people who think they have sensitive skin really don’t. If you’ve had two irritations in ten years, you don’t have sensitive skin. If you get irritated regularly (think a few times a month) by common moisturizing lotions, sunscreens, wool, all fragrances, etc., then you have sensitive skin.”

Additionally, according to Dr. Joshua Zeichner, certain skin conditions can create sensitivity. “Generally speaking, people with eczema and rosacea also tend to have sensitive skin, meaning a dermis with an impaired barrier that can't protect itself as well as it should from the environment and is more likely to become inflamed in response to environmental triggers.”

Signs of sensitive skin include erythema (skin redness), dryness, rash, micro-inflammation; and sensory effects such as itching, burning, stinging, tightness and tingling. It could happen when:

1.      Your skin is so dry that, lipid components become so low; leads to disturbance of the protective skin barrier function

2.      Hyper-reaction of the skin blood vessels

3.      Increased transcutaneous penetration of water-soluble chemicals

4.      Enhance immune responsiveness

Sensitive skin is seriously more than just subjectivity; it is a disorder with a biophysical origin whereby sensitive skin tends to have low skin tolerance threshold, deficient and thinner stratum corneum and excess generation of reactive oxygen species (aka free radicals)

If any of this sounds familiar, let’s talk ways to prevent those oh-so painful irritations.

1. Look for lower concentrations of ingredients.

Sometimes, it’s best to simplify. “There are no ‘safe’ ingredients. What bothers one person with sensitive skin may not bother another. The trick is finding products with very few ingredients. The fewer the ingredients, the less of a chance of reaction. This means products with more gentle formulas, such as acne products with 2.5% benzoyl peroxide rather than 10%, and mild cleansers and moisturizers with as few ingredients as possible.

2. Try non-irritating alternatives to traditionally irritating ingredients.

You can use the same ingredients as your friends with tougher skin, but look for kinder formulas. For instance, when looking for a night cream with a retinoid to help exfoliate for a better morning complexion, I recommend products with retinyl palmitate instead of retinol. You can also try more soothing versions of products that might agitate you. For example, if a typical toner is too harsh, choose a gentler version containing aloe vera.

3. Choose skin-soothing ingredients.

Skin-loving ingredients, such as niacinamide and chamomile extract. Niacinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3 that firms skin, reduces hyperpigmentation as well as visible signs of aging, and prevents moisture loss. The moisture barrier is the first line of defense for sensitive skin. Other gentle ingredients to look out for when your browse the beauty aisle include quercetin, turmeric, and hyaluronic acid.

4. Use physical blocker sunscreens.

Sunscreen is non-negotiable, a fact on which both dermatologists agree. But if chemical sunscreens (which break up the sun’s radiation at the surface of the skin) cause irritation, switch to a physical blocker. Sunscreens with ingredients such as zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide can prevent UV radiation from reaching the skin and causing damage by creating an invisible barrier. These physical sun protectants can be a healthier alternative for those with sensitive skin.

5. Go for fragrance-free products.

sometimes the struggle to find exactly what irritates you can be long and hard. Very few people actually ever know which ingredients bother them because the products they use that irritate them have 20-50 ingredients. One of the best ways to avoid irritation is to give up the frilly fragrances and use products that contain no artificial scent. It’s best to go scent-free so you can live your life without painful skin irritation.

 There is one product which I would like to recommend to those of you with sensitive skin. It literally goes beyond soothing skin. Its mechanism is somewhat like re-constructing the defense system of your skin, solving sensitive skin problem on long term basis.

ORTEA SensiaRecovery key components, carrot extract with patented PRCF technology, is a unique technology that induces the production of specific components from carrot stem cell. These potent components could protect human epidermal progenitor cells against induced oxidative stress. It could also inhibit neurogenic inflammation by inhibiting CGRP neuropeptide release in sensory neurons; thus restoring the wellbeing of the epidermal cells.

Its impressive effectiveness is further enhanced with patented encapsulated technology of targeted ligand particles; with the effectiveness from palmitoyl heptapeptide-27 and palmitoyl oligopeptide-78 to enhance and “reconstruct” skin cells, defending against chemical and environmental aggression.

The series impressive technology is further enriched with Saffron flower, which literally reduces allergy of skin by effectively reduce cutaneous neurosensory discomfort and control of inflammation; solving reactivity and hypersensitivity of skins.

The product series had taken into consideration most allergies factors and being fragrance-free; further reduce risk of skin sensitivity. This is one of the highly recommended skincare products for sensitive skin user.

"

[drbry-blog1]

Trend Watcher

Hey guys, today I would like to have this short article share with you all. Is all about the “free-from” trend and natural skincare trend. Lots of my reader are puzzled and asking me for a review, so here it is!

I had pulled out only 4 main trends and hope it helps.

SULFATE-FREE trend

Sulfate are surfactant such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate etc that tends to be a bit harsh to the skin. It is one of the most cost effective surfactants, thus found mainly in supermarket brand of personal care products. Some low quality sulfate, in particular SLES, contain traces (some could be a few hundreds ppm) of 1,4-dioxane; a known carcinogen. While sulfate-free does make sense for those with dry skin or prefer something milder, the cost is rather high and only find its way in slightly prestige market.

I personally do not against sulfate, but my skin is a bit dry, a sulfate-free product is much more suitable for me. for those of you with same dry skin problem, I will suggest either a sulfate-free product, or an emulsion product (if you really have super dry skin!). Otherwise, is perfectly ok for sulfate-based product.  

PARABEN-FREE trend

Paraben was one of the most widely used preservative in cosmetic products. It is the most effective, in my opinion, among the preservative especially for leave-on cosmetics. Despite the media frenzy surrounding parabens, the published research and global cosmetic regulatory organizations are making that answer clear; paraben, especially in the small amounts used in personal care products, do not pose significant health risk. There is no legitimate reason for consumers to avoid cosmetic products that contain parabens. According to these studies, parabens are fully metabolized before they enter the bloodstream. In a review of the estrogenic activity of parabens, the author concluded that based on maximum daily exposure estimates, it is literally impossible that parabens could increase the risk associated with exposure to estrogenic chemicals. Parabens were mistakenly linked to breast cancer at 2004. The researcher  responded that “no claim was made that the presence of parabens had caused the breast cancer”. In fact, researches found that parabens are broken down, metabolized and excreted harmlessly by the body. In addition, parabens were 10000 times weaker than naturally occurring phytoestrogen such as those found in the foods and medicines we consumer everyday. There is an exhaustive degree of scientific and medical studies demonstrating the safety of parabens used in the skincare and cosmetics. The next time you read a story vaguely indicates paraben are unsafe, think twice before you believe such hype  and remember the facts that tiny level used in your personal care products are not harmful.

SILICONE-FREE?

Silicone could appear as cyclomethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, amodimethicone and so on. It is a large group of chemicals based on Silica, originated from the mineral/sand.

Well, silicone free trend was originally started in Japan. The reason for this silicone-free requirement is mainly because of Japanese lifestyle where they actually apply on average 3-5 layers of product (mostly silicone) on their hair! Which in turn, the demand for silicone-free shampoo increase as they don’t want another layer of silicone on their hair, is simply too heavy! It was nothing to do with “bad-to-health” claim, not until the European came out to debate about the toxicity of D4 (cyclotetrasiloxane) which eventually lead to ban of D4 in skincare products. The take away is, silicone is bad to health but is mostly on the volatile silicone particularly cyclotetrasiloxane, other group of silicone does not really have the same health hazards effect. I still love silicone in my personal care products, the light, velvety feel is simply irreplaceable.  

Natural or synthetic?

Ok, this is obviously the biggest trend now. There are lots of myths surrounding natural skincare, saying it is good for your skin simply because it is natural. Well, my answer is yes and no. No, because natural ingredients tend to have complex of compounds; which some might be allergic. Unlike synthetic ingredients, producers have no control over these components; making some natural product could be more prone to allergic reaction among the user. Synthetic ingredients, on the other hand, are much more refined with lesser impurities. Chemically wise, synthetic ingredient could be the pure compound found in a natural ingredient (for example, ellagic acid found in pomegranate extract could be synthesize chemically; paraben found in blurberries can be synthesized from petroleum based raw material ); it really doesn’t have much different in term of the chemistry. However, during the manufacturing of synthetic ingredients, some by-product could be produced; such as 1,4-dioxane in SLES.  So, both natural and synthetic products are equally functional or at risk, it depends on the quality control of the producer. Speaking of impurities, you may be surprised to learn that plants are subject to contaminants as well. Plants come out of the ground, with insects, worms, mold, fungus, bacteria and other contaminants that must be purified (or removed) before they can be put into a cosmetic. In fact, if you saw how most plants look (or smell) before they undergo this purification, I bet you will never want to use another natural product again! The bottom line is, claim on natural ingredient is better are unfounded and are perpetuated by cosmetic companies and peoples who use information about isolated, non-purified synthetic ingrredients as a scare tactic. The truth is that the synthetic ingredients you find in skincare products is perfectly safe, and in most case, even better.

[drbry-blog1]

Should you get a facial?

Women routinely ask me if getting a facial is worth their time and money. Facials are a confusing issue, primarily because of the endless misinformation about exactly what they can do for your skin. In fact, more often than not, women who have gotten facials give us mixed feedback: Some tell us they love how their skin looks, others see no change in their skin, and still others report that they’ve ended up with more problems than they had before they got a facial.

Aside from the hype and nonsense you read in fashion magazines and the pictures you see of women serenely wrapped in a towel with a mask on their face and cucumber slices over their eyes, the reality is facials can be hurtful or helpful, depending on the person who performs your facial, what exactly they are using, and what they are doing to your skin.

Without question, facials are not mandatory for you to have beautiful, healthy skin, but for some skin types, and when done right, facials can be a beautiful addition to your skincare routine. On the flipside, when done wrong, they are a waste of time and can even damage your skin. Many women who’ve had facials report that they get them because it’s a relaxing experience. But, ideally, a facial should be about skin care, not just relaxation. If the relaxing experience is the sole reason you get facials then you’re better off getting a full body massage instead. That’s far more relaxing and it doesn’t put your skin at risk. Here is what a great facial can provide over and above a relaxing experience: • Thoroughly cleansed skin. • Softening and removal of blackheads and whiteheads (called milia) via manual extraction. • Temporary improvement of severely dehydrated skin with rich, emollient nourishing masks that begin restoring skin’s natural barrier function. • Plumping skin with a well-formulated moisturizer, which temporarily smooths out wrinkles. • Exfoliating skin with a gentle scrub, a light chemical peel, or a peel-off mask to achieve a smoother surface. • Help to fade brown discolorations, improve skin tone, and significantly reduce wrinkles with a professional-strength AHA or BHA treatment.

It’s important to keep in mind that what you do daily to take care of your skin is more important than what you do occasionally, but the combination of a great facial and a great skincare routine can have impressive results.

For most skin types a great facial should include gentle exfoliation with a properly formulated alpha hydroxy acid (AHA, active ingredient is glycolic or lactic acid) or beta hydroxy acid (BHA, active ingredient is salicylic acid) product. These are truly anti-aging, as they effectively reveal younger skin, even out skin tone, and build collagen. A facial also should include an antioxidant treatment, along with information on why antioxidants are so important for healthy skin. They not only repair damaged skin cells, but also help prevent further damage to the skin.

Your aesthetician also should be able to recommend the appropriate skincare products for you to use at home, and not hesitate to recommend brands or products the spa doesn’t sell. Of course, if healthy, younger-looking skin is your concern, your aesthetician should, above all else, recommend daily use of a sunscreen rated SPF 25 or greater!

The latest skincare fad is the HydraFacial, which is essentially a milder form of microdermabrasion, combined with cleansing in a single process. The HydraFacial also claims to “infuse” serums and exfoliant ingredients like AHAs into skin and vacuum substances ("impurities") from skin.

Compared to a standard microdermabrasion treatment (which can be rough on skin if not done with great care), the level of abrasiveness from Hydrafacials is low. Although that may sound better, it means that the unimpressive results from microdermabrasion are going to be even less impressive with the HydraFacial! At best, microdermabrasion makes skin smoother and the inflammation swells skin so wrinkles and large pores are temporarily less visible.

Back to the “infusion” of serums and AHA/BHA exfoliants—few spas (none that we could find) were willing to disclose the ingredients used in this procedure. Given what we know of how such ingredients work, the whole process doesn’t make sense. AHA/BHA exfoliants at professional peel strength must be applied with caution and rinsed from skin. Since skin isn’t rinsed during the HydraFacial process, we suspect at best you’re getting a fancy application of a mild AHA or BHA exfoliant (that may or may not be at the correct pH to work properly). The “serum” stage couldn’t possibly be more beneficial than simply applying your own serum. Besides, you need some ingredients to remain on skin’s surface to repair its barrier, strengthen its environmental defenses, and help mitigate the free-radical damage we get from being in an oxygen-rich environment or being exposed to pollutants. If everything penetrated past the surface, nothing would be left to protect skin’s first line of defense! Bottom line: Hydrafacials aren’t really worth your time or money. You’d get more bang for your buck investing in a cleansing brush such as the Clarisonic!

Collagen has no benefit when applied topically beyond moisturizing—even if you could force collagen into the deeper layers of skin, your body wouldn’t know what to do with it. Unfortunately, the only collagen that matters where anti-aging is concerned is what’s produced by your own body.

Many people look to facials to address a range of skincare concerns, from acne to wrinkles. A skilled aesthetician, using superior techniques and products, can help you address most of these issues to some extent, but facials are not cure-alls, and they absolutely do not replace what you use at home on a daily basis. Here is what a facial cannot do: • Eliminate acne. • Permanently fade discolorations. • Replace cosmetic corrective procedures such as Botox, lasers, or dermal fillers. • Treat rosacea or persistent redness (oftentimes the products and the amount of manipulation involved during a facial make sensitive, reddened skin worse). • Lift sagging skin. • Eliminate dark circles or puffy eyes. • Decongest skin and/or eliminate "toxins." (Skin cannot become "congested" and it doesn’t contain toxins that your body cannot eliminate on its own via the liver and kidneys.)

A good aesthetician (and there are many) will know how to help repair and maintain a healthy skin surface. This is important for all skin types, but especially if you have reddened skin, rosacea, eczema, acne, or sensitive skin. A well-trained aesthetician also should ask you detailed questions about your skin, including what you do to take care of it and whether or not you’re using any topical or oral prescription medications. All of these impact how the aesthetician will treat your skin, including what type of products he or she will use. Above all else, a good aesthetician will take every precaution to avoid causing needless irritation to your skin. He or she should know that irritation can cause a host of problems, such as the following: • Steaming skin, especially with abnormally hot steam, can worsen redness and potentially result in broken capillaries that show up as thin, spider-like lines. • Being too aggressive with extractions for acne or blackheads can make clogged pores worse and push acne lesions deeper into your skin. • Using essential oils, all of which may smell divine, but fragrance isn’t skin care. All fragrance, synthetic or natural, causes irritation, and irritation harms your skin. • Using products that contain irritating ingredients such as alcohol, camphor, or menthol. Even if you cannot see or feel the irritation, it’s happening beneath the skin’s surface. The result? Damaged collagen production and destruction of vital substances your skin needs to look young and healthy. • Using "facial rejuvenation" devices without proper training or a working knowledge of what the client can realistically expect.

Many facials include the use of hand-held devices or "machines" claiming to do everything from improving wrinkles, dark circles, and puffy eyes to dealing with acne, blackheads, and on and on. As intriguing as these options sound (and you will be tempted), for the most part they are either a complete waste of time and money or, depending on how often they’re done, actually have negative consequences for your skin.

The most typical treatment machines you are likely to encounter when getting a facial include oxygen-infusing machines, peeling devices, product-infusing (i.e. “microcurrent”) devices, and microdermabrasion systems. Here is what you need to know about these devices and their use.

Peeling devices (not including microdermabrasion machines) are hand-held tools with a hard metal edge the aesthetician scrapes across the surface of the skin, much like you might scrape a layer of frost off your car’s windshield. Sometimes these peeling tools are combined with another type of treatment in one machine, such as a device that uses the peeling step along with an oxygen-infusing option. • Pros: When used by a skilled aesthetician for the proper skin type (and used with extreme caution), a scraping tool can effectively exfoliate skin. • Cons: Device is "dragged" and pulled along the skin to exfoliate. It’s an archaic and potentially damaging way to exfoliate skin.

Product-infusing devices can be separate machines or can be combined with a peeling device for an all-in-one treatment. Product-infusing devices (often referred to as “microcurrent” devices) typically use either electrical currents or ultrasonic waves. Supposedly, the currents or waves open pathways between skin cells so the ingredients in the skincare products can go deeper into the skin to perform all sorts of miracles, such as lifting, firming, and reducing wrinkles. The sales pitch usually mentions that the more often you have these treatments the longer these pathways will remain open. As it turns out, there’s no substantiated research proving these machines work as claimed. Even if these machines could "infuse" ingredients deeper into your skin, what happens if those ingredients go right past where they can do your skin the most good? Plus, there’s the potential risk of getting unwanted ingredients (like preservatives or problematic plant extracts) deeper into the skin, where their negative effects may be worse. Even beneficial ingredients like vitamin C or retinol might be more sensitizing if they are "pushed" deeper into the skin, rather than being allowed to penetrate the uppermost layers on their own. • Pros: None. • Cons: The claims for product-infusing devices are complete and utter nonsense. There is no published research showing these devices have any benefit for skin. Even assuming that electricity or ultrasonic waves could open pathways into the skin’s dermis (lower layer), doing so would actually damage your skin. "Pathways into skin" means the surface and lower layers of the skin would no longer be cohesive, but torn open, which would allow penetration by bacteria, pollution, and ingredients in skincare products that should remain on the surface, where they can be washed off.

Negative ion pore-clearing therapy (often administered by a peeling device or product-infusing device) doesn’t have any impact on skin, whether for opening pores or removing toxins or anything else having to do with skin. Negative ions cannot "resonate" or move through skin, whether they are in the air or generated by a machine, so they can’t affect the pore. It may be a surprise to you, but skin has no ability to excrete toxins.

Toxins cannot leave your body through the pores or through your skin. Real detoxification of foreign substances takes place in the liver. The liver changes a toxin’s chemical structure so it can be excreted by the kidneys, which filter it safely from the blood into the urine. Skin can’t modify toxins in any way, so the toxins can’t exit through the skin via sweat or other means. People often think sweating eliminates toxins, but sweat’s chief function is to cool the body, not eliminate toxins. Sweat can eliminate some by-products, such as urea, but these by-products aren’t the kind of toxins spa personnel are referring to. They usually are referring to chemicals in skincare products, processed foods, or air pollution. • Pros: Because both positive and negative ions can be inhaled and because negative ions are generated in abundance after a storm (when the air is calm and seems very fresh), we know they can have a relaxing effect on the body. There is some research showing that negative ions can have the same relaxing effect on the body when inhaled, even if they are mechanically generated, but this inhalation of ions has nothing to do with eliminating toxins or clearing pores of cellular debris that leads to clogs and acne. • Cons: Ions, whether positively or negatively charged, cannot open, close, or clarify pores, nor can they eliminate toxins; this type of treatment cannot improve acne.

Microdermabrasion, also called the Lunchtime Peel, Italian Peel, or Paris Peel (among other names), is a non-surgical skin-resurfacing procedure. A machine with a small vacuum-like tip shoots a jet of small, abrasive crystals (usually aluminum or magnesium oxide) onto the skin, and then vacuums them off the skin. Depending on the pressure and intensity settings (which are controlled by the technician), you get different depths of exfoliation. The stronger the setting, the deeper the effects, but that also means more risk to your skin. Despite the "peel" names microdermabrasion also goes by, technically, it is not a peel (like an alpha hydroxy acid peel), but rather a machine-calibrated way to scrub and polish skin. • Pros: Because microdermabrasion is an effective way to exfoliate skin more deeply, it can help refine pores, improve the appearance of acne scars, and help even out blotchy, thickened, sun-damaged skin. • Cons: It can be too harsh on skin when overdone or done too often, leading to collagen breakdown. Some skin tones may get dark or light patches as side effects from the treatment if it is too strong.

Oxygen-infusion machines apply a concentrated amount of topical oxygen to facial skin via a small tube hooked up to an oxygen machine. Your face is covered with a special domed mask to keep the oxygen from escaping. Before the oxygen is turned on, your face is prepped with a product-infused cloth or a facial mask. Once the dome mask is secured and the machine is turned on, it’s left running for about 20 minutes. Depending on the spa and the aesthetician, a special tool that delivers concentrated bursts of oxygen to key areas may be used during the treatment. • Pros: Although theoretically this procedure can improve circulation and promote healing, most researchers find this highly unlikely, especially if used on otherwise healthy, intact skin. • Cons: There is no research showing oxygen-infusion machines have any benefit for wrinkles or aging skin whatsoever. Oxygen cannot pass through skin unless it is delivered in a hyperbaric (pressurized) booth. The short-term impact can be an increase in free-radical damage, thus negating any positive results.

The retail portion of your appointment is a major way salons and spas make money. Most aestheticians and support staff are expected to make monthly sales goals, so you can expect a fair amount of pressure to buy products. Although you may be tempted, more often than not the products are absurdly expensive, with equally absurd claims. It is also shocking how many spa products are packaged in jars, when so much research is available proving that many of the key anti-aging ingredients will not remain stable in this kind of packaging.

Also worth knowing: Spa staff often receive training from the product lines themselves, which, as you might expect, often is biased, based on a lot of hype and reinforcement of the brand’s absurd claims. An aesthetician who has been to the company-sponsored training sessions, and then clearly gone beyond that to learn about the actions of specific ingredients and devices, and about skincare products is one worth getting to know!

After considering the information above, the bottom line is this: A good facial can make you look and feel better than when you arrived for your appointment, but whether done once or routinely, facials cannot perform miracles, and they have their limits. Now that you have the facts, you will get the best results possible from a facial, not waste money, and feel great!

[drbry-blog1]

Acne skin, how to handle it

Acne is something most of us endured as teens. Eventually you outgrow those epic awkward years, but in cruel twist of fate, acne can rear its red, inflamed head well into adulthood.

Acne could appear on the skin as: -occluded pores (comedones), also known as blackheads or whiteheads -tender red bumpsaka pimples or zits -pustules(bumps containing pus) -cysts (deep pimples, boils)

How acne form? During the initial stage, dead skin cells and excess sebum accumulated in the pores forming comedones. If exposed, these oils started to oxidized and become darkening, forming blackhead. Whitehead on the other hand, is cover with a layer of skin. All these organic material is now becoming food for acne-causing bacteria. Proliferation of these bacteria eventually causes production of irritating and pro-inflammatory compounds. Further oxidation of these compounds lead to inflammation and pus formation. And these inter-dependent cycle go on, causing persistent formation of acne.

It is commonly said that acne is a surface-level and underlying skin imbalance caused by these 5 interdependent factors that causes blemishes to appear and persist, in summary: -hyperseborrhea (aka too much oil produced) -oxidative stress- both environmental and psychological -hyperkeratinization (aka too much dead skin cells) -bacterial proliferation -inflammation and immune responses

How to deal with acne skin In light of the different biological mechanisms involved in oily skin and the appearance of imperfections, any treatment must act on a variety of targets to be effective, including -reduce dead skin cells in the hair follicle- this can be achieved by proper exfoliation (scrub) or BHA (eg salicylic acid). BHA could remove outer layer of the skin, unclog the pores effectively. But, overuse cause skin drying. Exfoliation on the other hand, depending on type of exfoliator, might sometime cause acne become even worse. -regulate oily skin- this can be achieved by oil-controling skincare, and avoiding oily skincare especially sunscreen. -Delivering antioxidant topically – look for serum that is high in antioxidant, I personally love Annurka apple extract and spearmint -directly inhibiting bacterial proliferation-moisturizer that contain triclosan, hydrogen peroxide or some natural ingredient such as Norway Spruce bark extract that could perform equally. Clean your face frequently is also equally important. -Preventing inflammation- look for some soothing or anti-inflammatory moisturizer. Chamomile, alpha bisabolol, allantoin, pine bark are some useful ingredients.

Debunk the myth Here are some factors that don’t usually play a direct role in acne:

food: some often avoid greasy and fried foods, or spicy foods. While these foods may not be good for overall health, they don’t cause acne or make it worse. Although some recent studies implicated a high carbohydrate diet in aggravating acne, these findings are very far from established.

Hairline acne- those products that keep your hair perfectly smooth, glossy, styled could cause the blackheads and breakouts around your hairline. Those bumps can eventually spread onto your cheeks, especially if you sleep with products in your hair (it gets all over the pillow and thus, your face). While it does not directly cause acne, the occlusive ingredient in these products does block pores and eventually cause comedones.  

Hormone is another main factor for acne; which is true. Those breakouts about a week before your period and appears along your chin and jaw line. Skincare doesn’t help much for this type of acne. Hormonal fixes such as birth control maybe useful (check with your doctor).

Acne caused by stress hormones does not directly cause acne and it can’t be helped by contraceptives. Your skin freaks when you’re stressed because it causes your adrenal glands to pump out more cortisol, increasing oil production and feeding the acne-causing bacteria on your face. Managing your stress is the best solution.

My recommendation for acne care: 1. Cleanse with a mild cleanser (preferably sulfate-free), twice daily 2. If you wear heavy make-up regularly, be sure to remove make-up with a proper make-up remover and follow with a mild cleanser. 3. Use a gentle toner containing AHA or BHA 4. Use a gentle exfoliator 1-2 times a week 5. Hydrate your skin with a moisturizer containing some anti-bacteria agent and antioxidants, preferably oil-free if your skin is oily 6. Apply a spot cream to the affected area especially during the night 7. Apply an oil-free hydrating mask 1-3 times a week to keep your skin balance and hydrate 8. If you would like to wear make-up, choose water-based product 9. If your skin is seriously oily, try to use a toner with witch hazel extract or mild AHA to clean you face in between your busy schedule 10. Be patient, it could takes 6-8 weeks for your skin to have noticeable real change 11. Visit a beautician regularly to remove blackheads safely without scarring. Microdermabrasion is useful too for those with hyperkeratinization. 12. Don’t pick your zits! It could spread bacteria and even lead to permanent scarring.

Some ingredient to look for: Lauryl glucoside- this is a very gentle cleansing agent I will recommend for acne skin. It is made from corn and coconut. Drawback is, it doesn’t foam much. Cleansing is gentle and usually not drying. Salicylic acid- an effective exfoliate to remove dead skin cell. drawback is, it could be very drying. Idon’t recommends this for those with relatively dry skin; especially if you stay in air-conditioned room for long hours or living in Tropical country. Benzoyl peroxide- an effective ingredient that kills bacteria. Look for 5-10% benzoyl peroxide for your skincare regime. I personally do not like this chemical as it could be harsh to your skin. Norway spruce- this is my favorite, it has anti-inflammatory and strong anti-oxidant effect; perfect for natural skincare lover. AHA- such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid; alternatively look for natural source such as orange extract, pineapple extract, lemon extract, sugarcane extract. It could stimulate renewal of cells and act as a mild exfoliator. Natural plant extract- such as chrysanthemum, peony, chamomile, honeysuckle, herba violae are some effective soothing agent good for inflamed skin. Good for mild acne skin. Witch hazel- this natural astringent is also good for daily cleansing or toning for acne skin. Japanese knotweed- it has effective anti-inflammatory and anti-bacteria functions, perfect combination for severe acne.

Some ingredient to avoid: Sulfate- it could appear as sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, TEA lauryl sulfate. This harsh ingredient is highly cost effective, but a bit too harsh for acne skin. Soap- it could appear as myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, potassium myristate, potassium laurate, potassium palmitate. This traditional cleansing ingredient is natural with lots of foam, however it has to stay at pH 9-10; making it not so suitable for acne skin.   Triclosan- a common antibacterial agent that recently its safety being questioned. Some study concluded that triclosan could potentially cause cancer after long-term exposure. There are lots of controversy for this ingredient, I will advise to avoid triclosan in your daily skincare regime.

[drbry-blog1]

Playing with my new toy

I bought myself a moisture analyser from Scalar for the ease of my evaluation of skincare product. I immediately try it out with some product on my inner arm. My skin tends to be a bit dry as I stay inside air-conditioned room for long hours, plus I don’t drink enough of water. I got the initial reading of 32.2! that’s a reading for dry skin.

I tried to apply some serum (which is another free sample from Ms Vernon, yay!!!). This time is IroiseEnhydro 72 hours hydrating serum. It is claimed to be able to provide hydration upto 72 hours, with real imported Iroise Sea water (if you are not sure where is Iroise Sea, it is an isolated area near to Britani where sea water remain unpolluted).

After 1 hours of application, my reading gone upto 70.0! from 32.2 to 70.0 within 1 hour! that’s is too good to be true! I tried it on my face and I get similar result, truly remarkable! love the new toy, and love this serum. a Definite must have for people like me that spend long hours in air-conditioned room.

[drbry-blog1]

ORTEA FrozzenAge second trial -on my mum

This is my second trial with ORTEA FrozenAge. This time, on my mum!

My mum had lots of fine lines on her face. Unlike my dad, she doesn’t really has much issue on her eye bags. She used to e loyal fans of Sisley, but I manage to convince her to have a trial (partly also because she saw the remarkable transformation of my dad!). In just 3 days, she already notice some difference on her skin. skin was obviously plump up, with obvious reduction of fine lines appearance. Her skin is smoother with natural radiance. after 14 days, I had captured the above right picture. that was a WOW!

well, I manage to turn a loyal Sisley customer to be now loyal to a barely known new brand. Fantastic results.

by the way, my mum did mentioned that she doesn’ t really like the cleansing milk, as she is not used to “foamless” cleansing product. I took rather long time to convince her that this cleanser is much more suitable to her dry skin type.

HIGHLY RECOMMEND!

[drbry-blog1]

Here is the product I really love. I have rather oily skin and acne is always bothering me, I had been looking for natural product that actually work for acne skin. But, those product in the market is mainly made with active ingredient such as triclosan, salicylic acid, or benzoyl peroxide. Well, this kinda cheap ingredient does work, but it doesn’t worth the money (i had tried Murad, dermalogical, burt's bee, cosmedix and avon). Besides, it makes my skin super dry…I mean really really dry. My friends introduce ORTEA to me, and I just tried it out. I must admit, i was a bit skeptical as i never heard of this brand beford. But the result is AMAZING! It made with mainly plant extracts as active ingredients, I think it definitely worth the price. Not drying, mild, and gentle. I have my acne well control. For the price of RM200+ for one whole set, I think is justifiable given the results and the ingredients in the product. The Cons are, well, I don’ t really see any advertisement of this company, had been having hard time searching online and found only a little information. Is really hard to get a good and genuine product like this in the market nowadays.

After my trial, I pass my remaining product to my nephew Joey

She had the same feedback as mine, and her acne skin had improved a lots (see picture above)! we both rely on this product now. LOVE IT!

key ingredients: Chrysanthymum, Peony, Herba Violae, Honeysuckle, Pine bark extract, Norway spruce, Ginseng.

p/s: I love this product being free from sulfate, paraben, mineral oil and animal ingredients.

[drbry-blog1]

About Me

Not a typical beauty junkie, I am a cosmetic R&D scientist in profession, freelance make-up artist, beautician and blogger. I always have passions in developing skincare products and resolving skin’s problems of my friends. This blog is a place for me to share my knowledge with you. There are too many over-claim and over-price skincare products in the market. And often, too many self-proclaim skincare expert or beauty junkie that giving wrong advices.  My discussion is based on my scientific knowledge for fair, unbias, objective driven review. Enjoy reading!