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An eye opening journey to Bocas Del Toro
We eventually made it over to Almirante after a scenic drive through the region of Bocas Del Toro in the north of Panama. Straight away I noticed the difference between Costa Rica and Panama. The people were just as friendly but immediately there was a noticeable difference in the look of the people. The women were beautiful with high cheek bones, darker skin and enviable long, black, thick, shining hair. We passed women wearing some distinctive, beautiful dresses i'd never seen before. I later realized these were women of the Ngöbe Buglé, formerly known as the Guaymie. They live in the regions of mainland Bocas Del Toro, the Chiriqui province and Veraguas. The women's gowns are unmistakable with every gown bearing bright colours and eye-catching geometric shapes sewn into them. The people of the Ngöbe Buglé live in small wooden shacks that lie on the green hillsides where they care for their family, chickens, dogs and home.
The driver stopped off at a local colourful fruit stall where myself and another guy hopped out to see what we could buy for cheap. There were copious amounts of fresh pineapple, pipas, papaya, bananas, plantains and so much more. The fruit stalls are one of my favourite things in Central America. It almost epitomizes the country you're in; the colour that the stall and all the fruits exude, the richness and vast array of fresh fruit, the owner chilling out and relaxing in their armchair waiting patiently for you to make your mind up of what you want. This richness of colour, the freshness of the fruit and the relaxed vibe I got from the people instantly made me feel so content with what I was already experiencing in Panama; where a little goes a long way. Life here is full of colour and experiences.
The driver insisted on buying a bunch of bananas for everyone in the van which we greatly appreciated due to the fact we'd been travelling since 6am with no food stops. Eventually the driver's father came to the van, proceeded to say hello to us all squished in the back and took over the wheel from his son. We hadn't realized this had been the whole point of the quick stop but nevertheless we were all happy with our bunch of bananas and typical central american pop music playing from the front seats livening us all up.
As we set off again leaving the old woman's fruit stall and the bustling town behind, we made tracks through green landscapes where rainfall was obviously frequent, puddles lay to the side of the road and the air was cooler. Driving through more rural parts we saw shabby wooden shacks standing on the steep hillside where young families and families of the Ngöbe Buglé peered out to see who and what was coming up the road. Chickens roamed the tall, green grass with their chicks in tow and dogs barked endlessly as they stood tied up to a tree.
We made it to Almirante after a few hours in the jeep. With numb bums we hauled off our backpacks and surfboards which were soaked through from the rainstorm we had passed through on the way over. After a bit of waiting we finally began to board the small boat that would be taking us all to the islands of Bocas Del Toro. They somehow managed to fill the boat full of people and backpacks and as we sped off I saw the houses standing tall in the river on rotten stilts. The water wasn't the cleanest I've ever seen with all sorts of junk floating around. Old toilets, sinks, paper, pipes and all kinds of waste lay on the shore where locals had evidently dumped their old belongings. Looking to the other side of the river we saw something quite amazing, something i've only ever seen in programmes i've watched at home, there was a young girl who was under the age of 10, standing in a giant canoe paddling her way across the river. For those people living further up the river this is their only means of transport. The large canoe, which they call a 'cayuco' is made out of a solid tree truck where they hollow it out. Just seeing the small child standing alone on this huge cayuco paddling her way to the other side with such ease and efficiency was simply amazing. It was something I wasn't expecting to see and obviously something of the norm around these parts where most travel is done by water. I kicked myself after for not taking a photo of this beautiful and humbling site, instead, I just watched enthralled by what I was watching. Fortunately I managed to capture a photo of an old man in one of the canoes making his way from his crumbling home on stilts to the open water.
Seeing the houses built on the water and the hollowed out canoes really brought home the poverty in Panama. Costa Rica had been relatively well developed with a large American influence in most places, but here, seeing a young child cross the river in croc infested waters on her own, and the homes on the water's edge was eye opening to say the least.
Crossing the Border to Panama
We made tracks to Panama from Puerto Viejo; catching a ride in the morning in a jeep packed with other travelers and their bags strapped to the top of the jeep, making their way to the border. We arrived at the border after passing vast areas of banana plantations surrounded by the lush green landscape of the Caribbean. We stumbled out of the cramped boot Matty and I had been sitting in and grabbed our bags.
After we had queued up to get our passports stamped, we hauled our backpacks and surfboards over our shoulders and walked off towards the bridge crossing. It appeared to once have been a train track but now served as the border control bridge with an additional track to the left where trucks drove slowly over the unstable looking wooden flooring. Old planks of wood struggled to keep the bridge together and as we stumbled over the creaking planks in our flip flops, looking down and watching our step, we saw gaps between the planks big enough to accidentally put a foot through if you weren't treading carefully. The brown, murky river flowed beneath us. I loved the fact this bridge was the border crossing, it turned a simple crossing into a mini adventure; much more exciting than the hectic border at Paso Canoas.
Hopping off the last plank of the bridge we went and joined the long queue for border control, got our passports stamped, and paid the bill for entering Panama. After, we hopped on our next jeep that was filled to the brim with surfboards and backpacks. The jeep was to take us to Almirante, where we'd be getting the boat across to the islands of Bocas Del Toro.
Puerto Viejo... Caribbean love!
As this was my first visit to the Caribbean I couldn't wait to try the food. For our first meal we headed to a local Soda named 'Soda Mopri' which had been packed every time we had walked passed. I ordered Caribbean style chicken and wasn't disappointed by the full plate of delicious chicken, rice, beans, patacones and a little salad thrown in on the side. This was undoubtedly the best food I'd had since being in Costa Rica.
We attempted to embrace the Caribbean culture in our own way whilst in Puerto Viejo by drinking Ron and occasionally making our way to the main bar on the beach where live reggae music would be playing most nights. Live music accompanied by cervezas and a few intense games of ping pong would make for a perfect chilled night.
Whilst in Puerto Viejo we rented out bikes to cycle to the beaches further down the road leading to Playa Manzanillo. On our first attempt to the beach we had walked through the forest which separated the road from the shore. We had been confronted by countless amounts of some of the ugliest spiders dangling in their thick webs on every branch we passed waiting for some unsuspecting prey. Scarred by this walk through the spider infested forest I made a vow to myself to never enter that forest again.
The bikes allowed us to discover some beautiful, deserted beaches of golden, soft sand with logs of driftwood lining the shore from copious Caribbean storms that had crashed upon the coast. The warm, clear waters were a welcome change from the brown, murky waters of some of the beaches on the Pacific side. After a day of cycling further down the coast, our bums were sore and legs like jelly so we stopped at a few of the bars hidden to the side of the road. As we stopped off at one bar it was only a few minutes before the surrounding jungle wowed us as we spotted a toucan high in the tree tops making its distinctive call. Shortly after the toucan had flown away we then spotted a sloth clinging to some branches high in the jungle canopy. Puerto Viejo was a beautiful place boasting both a jungle backdrop home to all sorts of wildlife and Caribbean blue waters.
Whilst here we had the chance to visit the Jaguar rescue centre hidden under the layers of trees and bushes in the jungle up a bumpy, dirt road track. After three days of trying to find this hard to reach centre; due to its rare opening hours and terrible directions we finally made it to the 11:30 group one day, where immediately we spotted baby sloths huddled together at the bottom of a small group of trees.My heart sank as soon as I saw them, they were the most beautiful, helpless creatures i've ever seen. The rescue centre was run by an Italian couple; the woman running the centre and who also ran the tour, shared a deep love for monkeys and her husband loved and took care of the snakes and arachnids. Within their centre they took care of copious amounts of venomous snakes, spiders, tarantulas, toucans, orphaned sloths and howler monkeys.
I loved Puerto Viejo and after all the controversy we'd heard about this particular place, we didn't come across any trouble. It also ended up being one of my favourite spots in Costa Rica due to the diversity of the place; from sloths, monkeys, jungle, reggae, ron, blue waters to delicious Caribbean style food. If the sun had been shining whilst there it would have been paradise!
Puerto Viejo
Conflicting stories had brought us to Puerto Viejo. Having heard so much about the place I couldn't help but have prejudicial thoughts about where we were going. Two weeks before we had left, Matty had met a guy in a hostel who had recently visited Puerto Viejo and had also, incidentally, left abruptly one night as thieves had broken into the hostel he had been staying at. They were armed with machetes and went from cabin to cabin threatening travelers to hand over their passports, cameras, and anything else worth a bit of money. This guy had fortunately escaped through a back window and had fled in his car driving as far away as possible from the area.
This story didn't manage to leave my mind the whole time we were making our way over there. However, I had heard a much different story from a friend that had recently visited a week or so before, and also from other travelers who had said they had fallen in love with Puerto Viejo, and that it was their favourite place in Costa Rica. We decided we would have to make our own decision, and not let other peoples' experiences change our own.
We arrived in Puerto Viejo around mid morning and as we headed out in search of some breakfast on the main road we were immediately struck by the laid back atmosphere of the Caribbean, as shop shutters slowly began to open for the day at 11 am, and sleepy travelers cycled passed on brightly coloured bikes. Reggae music played from bars as ex-pats and locals sat outside with steaming cups of coffee in hand with heads hanging low from the previous night.
We walked by the harbour where small, haggard old fishing boats lay on the shore surrounded by pieces of driftwood. We spotted a couple of fisherman heading out to sea over the sharp reef in the shallow waters on one of these rickety boats. As we passed the vast array of wooden stalls on the beach side where the local characters sold beautiful handmade jewelry, hair wraps and various clothes, we found Salsa Brava. As soon as we saw someone on some of the left and right handers formed off the A-frame peak Matty's eyes glazed over and began to drool at this world class barrel fest. Unfortunately these waves were looking a little too gnarly for me, but it didn't mean I couldn't enjoy watching the locals getting barreled on this quick, intense wave.
Volcan Arenal
After my month in Tamarindo I was ready to say goodbye and explore Costa Rica with some new found knowledge of the language and to be reunited with Matty. We celebrated Valentines a day late with one of the best meals i'd had for a month or so; something that wasn't accompanied by rice, beans and plantain. However much I enjoyed the food at Isabel's I was definitely ready for a break from the filling meal of rice and beans.
We decided it was definitely time to get out of Tamagringo, so we caught an early rise bus out towards Liberia the next morning. As we lugged our bags and surfboards onto the bus at 5am, I sat by the window waving goodbye to the gringo infested nest of Tamarindo with which I had formed a love hate relationship. From the clubs that hosted the many salsa and reggae nights out, to the beach where we went surfing after classes, the 'pipa' selling locals on the beach, the constant harassment from taxi drivers, and all the people that I met along the way. I loved it all but I was glad to be finally leaving.
Unwittingly that morning we set off for a 10/11 hour journey, changing on countless buses up to Volcan Arenal for cooler climates and a few hikes through the green and luscious countryside. Eventually we arrived in La Fortuna, the town surrounding Volcan Arenal, we were slightly disappointed by the town as we had been expecting a beautiful quiet little place filled with locals and views of the volcano. Instead we were greeted by tourist stricken streets filled with copious tourist attraction offices with people desperately attempting to make you sign up to their activity group. Everything overpriced. We headed to a hostel where immediately we dropped our bags and set off for a short walk to a rope swing over fresh icy waters flowing from the waterfall a few kilometers up river.
As we walked out of the centre of town we started to see the real La Fortuna, we left the tacky streets behind and soon stumbled upon a beautiful, white horse surrounded by fields of lush green grass with a scenic backdrop of Volcan Arenal looming in the background. Clouds clung to the volcano's peak and the rain began to fall heavily in the distance.
During our short stay in La Fortuna we hiked to the local waterfall, one of the greatest waterfalls i've seen yet where the water cascaded down from a great height above. It was one of the most sublime sights seeing the waterfall powerfully push through the rainforest and fall crashing into the deep pool below.
Whilst there we were lucky enough to spot some rare wildlife, including a group of Coatis rummaging through the dense forest layers in search of grubs in fallen tree trunks, an adorable armadillo scurrying around the short grass to the side of the road and a coral snake that slid past as we desperately tried to catch a photo without getting too close.
After a few days of being in the cool, wet atmosphere of the beautiful volcanic countryside of Arenal we decided to make tracks to the Caribbean side of Costa Rica towards Puerto Viejo for white sandy beaches, surf at Salsa Brava and a chance to taste delicious Caribbean style food.
Rincon de la Vieja
During my month there I also managed to visit some beautiful sights such as Rincon de la Vieja, an active volcano surrounded by trails leading to various hot springs, a waterfall, boiling pots of mud and craters of steam rising from the ground just a few short treks away. During our day of traversing round the mountainous volcanic landscape we were lucky enough to spot some wildlife, such as white faced monkeys veering through the tree tops above, howler monkeys making their daily calls from the branches looming overhead with babies clinging to the mothers' bellies, and a wild boa constrictor crossing our path as we made tracks down the rocky path. We all tip toed round so as not to get too close, while our guide seized the opportunity to do a little showing off, grabbing a flimsy looking stick to hold the snake so we could take a closer look. It was quite incredible to be so close to a wild snake so powerful and one that could easily attack if it wanted. After a few minutes, and a good few photos later. he let the snake sliver back to the side of the road as we watched, our eyes glued to it as it quickly disappeared into the tall grass.
We all clambered into the van after a quick hike from the waterfall, where we spent the last half hour jumping from various heights into the cold, fresh water. We set off towards Tamarindo as the sun began to set behind the vast hills of Rincon de la Vieja, we caught glimpses of the giant red sphere through trees as we descended towards Liberia. As we peered out the windows transfixed on the sunset, we didn't notice that the van had hit a huge rock in the road that had punctured a hole in the radiator. As the driver began to lose power the van eventually stalled to a halt to the side of the road, where dogs came out of a dark alley way and barked, bearing their teeth, marking their territory. Fortunately the driver was a mechanic so all hope was not lost, but we were still stuck in the middle of nowhere for more than an hour, and as the sun set a cold breeze began to blow from the mountains. With no warm clothing, food or drink, we began to resort to games in order to keep us warm and preoccupied.
Afterwards as the driver managed to get the van going, we stopped off at a bar in a sleepy suburb of Liberia for a few cervezas to lighten the mood. Our loud group of girls ecstatic to be back on track accompanied a couple of old locals sitting at the bar making for a fun evening.
Sunsets, Salsa y muchas fiestas!
Although I was in Tamarindo for a month I somehow didn't manage to get bored of the place. That month was full of new and exciting experiences; from learning to salsa for the first time to going to rodeos full of bulls, beer and baile. Week days were filled with Spanish lessons in the morning followed by an afternoon on the beach, surfing, reading, relaxing, testing out my Spanish and drinking fresh pipas. As temperatures cooled in the early afternoon, I would sometimes walk to neighbouring Playa Langosta with some friends from the school. Here the softest, white sand seemed to stretch on for miles and a dip in the crystal clear water was a perfect refreshment after the 20 minute walk over. Tamarindo sunsets would be accompanied by the lovely people I met from the school; people from Germany, the U.S., Sweden, France, Norway, and so many more nationalities. We'd chat in our broken English or Spanish conversations, over a few cans of ice cold cerveza until the sun turned red, illuminating the sky as it disappeared over the horizon. Afterwards I'd make tracks to catch a lift back to Santa Rosa for another night with the family. I fell in love with the Costa Rican way of life whilst in Tamarindo; it seems to be all about having fun, and dancing is a large part of it, rhythm seems to be in their blood as women (of all ages) dance effortlessly, gliding around the dance floor, and swaying their hips as the salsa or merengue music plays on. Even the men dance with no awkwardness at all, it's as if they were born to do it, and it makes a nice change to the guy's dancing moves back in England! We managed to sample some of the men's dancing talents in a rodeo we went to in Huacas, a small town 15 minutes outside of Santa Rosa. They were eager to dance with us (Ashley, Lindsay, Miranda, Sydney and Connie) to show how it was done, as they swung us round, coaxing our feet in the right direction they sent us into a dizzying frenzy of twirls and hip swaying steps. After a half hour or so some of us had had enough, except for Ashley who had already been miles ahead from the start, she continued to stun the guys with her insatiable salsa style rendering the guys speechless and not wanting her to stop! Whilst there we watched the faultless moves of grandmas dancing merengue with their grandchildren and husbands. This might have been where I started to fall in love with the Ticos, it's not everyday you see a grandma dancing salsa with her grandson or whoever else, certainly not in England anyway. Before the dancing had started that night I had just witnessed my first real rodeo, with 'sabaneros' or cowboys, handling lassoes whilst on horseback. Raging bulls also running riot in the ring and men frantically attempting to attract the bulls attention by kicking it or running into its path, then jumping into hidden gaps in the fence to escape the bull's lethal horns. From our high, unstable wooden stall, somehow managing to hold everyone up, we saw sabaneros being flung about like rag dolls as bulls burst out the docks enraged by the weight of the man on top, and possibly the hot poker someone had just poked its bum with. During the festivities, one unlucky sabanero had been trampled on by a furious bull, and another bull had fainted due to the rope being pulled too tight around its neck as they attempted to drag him out the ring. It wasn't the nicest thing to have watched, as we realised how cruel a sport it actually is. Afterwards we all felt a bit downhearted so we went in search of churros and somewhere to dance to lighten the mood.
Tamarindo- my time with the family in Santa Rosa
I loved my time with the Angulo Obando family. Spending a month with the family allowed me to learn so much more Spanish than just travelling around hoping I'd somehow pick it up. However, I never really did end up understanding a single word Didier (the father) spoke, due to his imperceptibly fast and difficult to understand accent. Nevertheless, I still loved my early mornings with Isabel, where we would meet at the kitchen table at 6:30am before the others woke, with a cup of strong, black coffee in hand. Here was where I learnt about Costa Rica from the Ticos and not from the guide book I had been paying so much attention to. We talked about the news on the television, the beauty of Costa Rica, the dangers, the heat, the people, she would give me advise on where to visit, how to be safe and what to do and what not to do in Tamarindo and Guanacaste. Every morning would be a new lesson and also a test to my spanish! After two or three cups of coffee later accompanied by a hearty breakfast of gallo pinto or whatever else was being served up that morning (breakfast at Isabel's was always a treat) I'd set off from the house at 7am to catch my lift to school for the day. Wandering down the dusty road of Santa Rosa each morning, I'd walk past dogs passed out on the roadside, women sweeping the dust off their porches, and the unmistakable smell of smoke from burning piles of rubbish trailing through the street. I loved this time of day; where a few of the local old men sat out sleepily on their porches and where mothers walked their young children to school whilst the heat hadn't yet kicked in so a cool morning breeze floated through the street. Every day I'd return to Santa Rosa at around 7pm, go to my room and instantly start melting as the tin roof refused to cool down after a good days scorching in the sun. After a cold water shower, I locked the door behind me so the many bugs; spiders, scorpions, toads and all sorts of little critters couldn't run into my room whilst I was away. Evenings would be spent drinking endless amounts of ice cold juice, playing with the pups, watching one of Isabel's favourite Mexican soaps 'Que Bonita el Amor', attempting to chat with everyone in Spanglish and eventually retiring to my room when I thought it might've cooled down enough. There were many times when I returned to my room feeling tired and satisfied after the day at school and evening with the family, I'd be looking forward to bed until the moment I would be greeted by a huge toad that had been waiting for me on the floor, or one that had been bathing in the shower. Another time a ridiculously huge, hairy spider, which I still believe was a tarantula, was chilling on my door meaning I couldn't go to bed for a good hour or so until I had managed to chase him out the room. Not my best moment in Santa Rosa, but definitely an experience. Yak!