This pastel pink patootie was commissioned by @twigthecoyote as a gift for their friend. I had so much fun working on them! I'll never get tired of making snurbies 🩷🐌
Ok I’m back once again with a questionable Furby accessory crochet pattern. This time it’s the carrier.
It took way longer than I expected because I got bored doing the repetitive strap and became addicted to some roguelike dungeon crawler.
The project started from replicating this:
Do you have a 1998/99 adult furby that desperately need to get out of the house but has a tendency to wander off? Have you tried putting you
But I soon realized that I’m a very tight crocheter and if I simply follow this pattern the final product will be too small. Also, I don’t really like the weird protrusion as shown in the original creator’s final product…
So a tweaked version below the cut… A quick disclaimer I’m not sure how well will this replicate, I’m someone who tries to create a blanket out of granny squares and end up with 9 that each has a different measure.
I guess just don’t be afraid to redo rows or modify things, and politely ask your beloved Furb to try it on every now and then.
Tools of the trade:
A 7.0 mm hook (There are places where I personally used a 4.0 mm hook, which will be specified. In a hindsight, it’s probably better to use the 7mm hook throughout this project)
Good old 3mm yarn that’s 35g/59m (1.23oz/64.52yd) (Yeah blame me for relying on Daiso as my sole source of crochet gears, I dare you) Roughly as dense as worsted/4 yarn
Jargon:
ch - chain stitch
dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet
ss - slip stitch
What I did (with a lot of unnecessary ranting):
R1: Start with slip knot, ch 2, dc 6 in second stitch from hook (used 4mm hook, because I kinda suck at starting a circle)
And from here on I switched to the 7mm hook as
Otherwise I have trouble keeping the circle flat
A bigger hook makes each stitch and the final product larger
R2: dc 2 in each of the previous stitches (12 stitches)
R3: [dc 1 in the first stitch, dc 2 in the second stitch]*6 (18 stitches)
R4: [dc 1 in the first stitch and second stitch each, dc 2 in the third stitch]*6 (24 stitches)
R5: [dc 3, 2 dc’s in the fourth stitch]*6 (30 stitches)
R6: [dc 4, 2 dc’s in the fifth stitch]*6 (36 stitches)
Experienced reader will realize that it’s just inc 6 for each round, until you have 36 stitches in one round.
One thing to notice is that after you finish R5, the circle should be roughly same size as your furb’s bottom.
R7: dc 3, ch 3, dc into 4th stitch from hook, dc 2, ch 3, dc into 4th stitch from hook, dc 12, ch 6, dc into 7th stitch from hook, dc 5 (used 4mm hook, 36 stitches)
This gives you the two peet holes and one tail hole. Yes a quick calculation should show that this is not symmetric but somehow it fits, so remember to use your own Furb as measure and adjust if necessary.
From here on I switched to hdc to control for the height increase and *ahem* save yarn.
I tried to continue with 4mm hook but the opening contracts significantly, so just stick to the 7mm hook throughout.
This is also where the pattern starts. If you want a single colored one, just replace all the following rows with hdc 36:
R8: [hdc 5 using the color you started the project with (color A hereafter), hdc 1 using a different color (color B hereafter)]*6 (36 stitches)
R9: [hdc 4 using color A, hdc 2 using color B]*6 (36 stitches)
R10: [hdc 3 using color A, hdc 3 using color B]*6 (36 stitches)
R11: [hdc 2 using color A, hdc 4 using color B]*6 (36 stitches)
R12: [hdc 1 using color A, hdc 5 using color B]*6 (36 stitches)
For alternating between two colors I yarn over with color A, and pull through color B. For other stitches I brings along the inactive color by tucking it in between the three loops and the active yarn when you are supposed to pull through (see below for two poor quality photo as reference):
R13: Edging for the body. hdc 5, ss 11, hdc 5, ss 15 and then sc 1 in the same stitch as last ss using color B (37 stitches)
The two hdc 5 clusters will serve as base for the strap.
Then you just baby blanket it, I dc'ed all the way until the end of the first cluster and ch 2 for turning, repeat until desired length. Also did two dc's in the first and last stitch of the 5 hdc base to add extra width to the strap (So each row has 7 dc).
I also reverted back to 4mm hook (finally) for a neater look.
For this part simply do however many rows as you will find fitting. I did 90 rows of 7 dc.
When the strap is finished, connect it together with a technique similar to this on the inside. I used slip stitch instead of single crochet to give the seam a more even look.
Honorable mentions: This and that for reference on specific technical details and pattern writing, and Lime helping me with the fit.
I have finished my pattern for the furby baby sling!
I tested this a few times on Lemondrop, and there doesn't seem to be any problems with tipping over while he's in it. I added a nice (optional) ruffle detail around the edge and the whole thing should only take around 200 yards MAX of yarn. I used a 4 weight worsted acrylic yarn and a 4.5 mm hook for my final product. This is my first time writing a crochet pattern so excuse any mistakes I may have made in the writing. I am happy to answer any questions you may have while crocheting! I hope everyone enjoys, and if you like my work you can check out my ko-fi for a free pdf version, commissions, or to leave a tip!
💜pattern below💜
Become a supporter of sweetbabyrayn today! ❤️ Ko-fi lets you support the creators you love.
💜 Written by @sweetbabyrayn on tumblr and ko-fi. Posted to @rayn--cloud on tumblr 🐸
Uses a weight 4 yarn with a 4.5 mm hook
🐸 key 🐸
dc - Double Crochet
sc - single crochet
inc - Increase (two stitches in same space)
decr - decrease (skip stitch and crochet one space over)
💜 Basket 💜
Round 1: In a magic circle, dc 8 (8) Add in a stitch marker at the beginning of the row now.
(This stitch marker will line up with the seam on the side of your furby baby)
Round 2: Inc in every stitch (16)
Round 3: (dc, inc) 8 times (24)
Round 4: (2 dc, inc) 8 times (32)
Round 5: (3dc, inc) 8, times (40)
Round 6: dc in each stitch (40)
Round 7: dc 7 chain 10 skipping over the next 8 stitches, then dc 7 (this makes the tail hole)
Round 7.5: dc 4, chain 3 skipping over the next 3 stitches, dc 4, chain 3 skipping over the next 3 stitches, dc 4 (this makes the feet holes) (42)
STOP AND CHECK THE FIT ON YOUR FURBY. IT SHOULD BE SNUG BUT NOT TOO TIGHT
Round 8: dc 3, dcr 1, dc 3, dc in each chain (10 total) dc 3, dcr 1 dc 3 (this is the tail half)
Round 8.5: dc 4, dc in each chain (3 total) dc 4, dc in each chain (3 total), dc 4 (40)
Round 9-10: dc in each stitch (40)
(on row 11 switch to secondary color if desired)
For Ruffles:
Round 11: dc 3, dc 4x in each stitch for 16 stitches (3+10+3), 5dc (place a stitch marker in the first and last dc), dc 4x in each stitch for 14 stitches (2+3+4+3+2), 2dc
For a straight edge:
Round 11: dc 3, place an additional stitch marker in the third stitch. Dc 16, dc 5 and place a stitch marker in the first and last stitch of this grouping. Dc 14, then dc 2 (40)
FOR BOTH OPTIONS:
*The stitch markers indicate where to connect the strap when at desired length.*
Round 12: Dc 3, chain one and turn. 5 sc, chain one and repeat. (5)
*We will be working in rows from here on out to make the strap. Make sure to always chain 1 before turning for each row*
Rounds 13-14: sc 5 (5)
Round 15: sc, inc, dc, inc, dc (7)
Round 16: dc in each stitch (7)
*repeat this until you get a desired length for your shoulder strap*
Ending four rounds:
Round 1: dc, dcr, dc, dcr, dc (5)
Rounds 2-4: dc 5
Attach the strap to the other side
- I do this by turning the basket inside out
- find the first stitch marker on the opposite side and make sure your strap isn't twisted
- slide the hook into the dc where the stitch marker is and pull through.
- slip stitch that loop into the one on the strap.
- repeat this for the next four stitches then tie off with a sturdy knot
- flip basket back the right way out and the seam should be out of the way and you're done!
it's been months since i wrote this pattern, and no one else has tested it soooo.... if you experience any issues please feel free to DM me and i can help brush out the possible problems <3
pattern under the cut
⊹₊ ˚‧︵‿₊୨୧₊‿︵‧ ˚ ₊⊹
Furby Baby Bonnet ۶ৎ
ST - Stitch
CH - Chain
HDC - Half Double Crochet
DC - Double Crochet
DC Inc - two double crochets into one stitch
(#) - number of stitches in row/round
[text] - repeat sequence
4.00 MM Hook
Sport/Fine/2 Weight Yarn (I used Estelle Superwash Fine)
Bonnet
Start by making a magic circle
Round 1: Ch 2, 10 DC in magic circle (10)
Round 2: Ch 2, DC Inc in each ST around (20)
Round 3: Ch 2, [DC Inc, DC] around (30)
Round 4: Ch 2, [DC Inc, DC in next two ST] around (40)
Round 5: Ch 2, DC around(40).
You will now be working in rows
Row 6 / earhole Row: CH 2, 4DC, CH 10, DC into 10th ST from hook, DC 9, CH 10, DC into 10th ST from hook) DC 3, CH 2 and turn (38)
Row 7: DC Across, CH 2 and turn (38)
Row 8: DC Across (38)
ROW 9: HDC Across
Trim (i forget what brand, also a Sport/Fine yarn i believe)
CH 30
HDC 3 IN EACH STITCH
then i just slipped some thin ribbon through the row before the trim with a yarn needle. i found even just a chain of the yarn too thick. but see what you have and like! maybe just a plain strange of yarn or ribbon or embroidery thread would look nice aswell.
We really need to make a tag for the arts and crafts furby community. I want to knit cute hats/clothes and carriers for my furbies but I’ve no idea how and I can’t find any guides online
I´m new to actually writing patterns up for others to use, so please tell me if there is anything that´s hard to understand or if you find any mistakes. Also, if you do make your furb a beret, please send me a pic or tag me in your post, I would love to see what you make!
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Gauge: 10st X 5 rows -- 6,5 cm X 2,5 cm (I used a 3, 5 mm hook)
Finished size (fits a 1998 furby): total diameter - 11cm, head hole diameter - 9 cm
Abbreviations
sc - single crocet
ss - slip stitch
inc - increase (two into one)
dc - invisible decrease (go through only the fron loops of two stitches, sc as one)
[] - nuber of stitches in the row
() - repeat sequence
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Main hat - stripes not included, I changed color every 3 rows
R1 - chain 50, ss into first stitch [50]
R2, R3 - sc all aroud [50]
R4 - 10sc, (chain 9, ss into 10th stitch from hook), 14sc, (chain 9, ss into 10th stitch from hook), sc rest of the round [50]
R5 - sc all around [50]
R6 - (9sc, inc)x5 [55]
R7 - sc all around [55]
R8 - (7sc, dc)x6, sc [49]
R9 - (3sc, dc, 3sc)x6, sc [43]
R10 - (5sc, dc)x6, sc [37]
R11 - (2sc, dc, 2sc)x6, sc [31]
R12 - (3sc, dc)x6, sc [25]
R13 - (2sc, dc)x6, sc [19]
R14 - (sc, dc)x6, sc [13]
R15 - 6dc, sc [7], bind off and leave a longer tail
Take your taill and your needle and "pick up" the remaining 7 stitches (just whip stitch around), pull on the tail to close the hole
Weave in your tails
Pompom - please look up a separate pompom-making tutorial, i suck at making pompoms. After you make one, just use the same thread you used to tie the pompom together to sew in to the beret on top
The trim - entirely optional, I used a crochet thread and a 2mm hook
(ss, 5sc, ss) into each [50]
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Decorating ideas
different trims! just look up "crochet trims" and find one you like
more stripes! crazier stripes! center-out stripes!
replace the pompom with someting else - a flower, or a bow maybe?
crochet emroidery
add some lace or a ribbon
Took the kids to build a bear with me this week trying to find some accessories or clothing that might fit them, I didn’t find anything but they still had a blast :p
theartofmadeline
andulkaphoto
germansingergirl
amandla
