me: *lying face down in mud in the middle of the scottish highlands*
friend: what are you doing?
me: *muffled because of the dirt* I’m having me time
todays bird
sheepfilms

JVL
2025 on Tumblr: Trends That Defined the Year

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Today's Document

Love Begins
cherry valley forever

ellievsbear
official daine visual archive
KIROKAZE
tumblr dot com

@theartofmadeline
Fai_Ryy
"I'm Dorothy Gale from Kansas"
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Discoholic 🪩
Sweet Seals For You, Always

Product Placement
almost home

seen from Türkiye

seen from United Kingdom
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seen from Mexico

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@floryff
me: *lying face down in mud in the middle of the scottish highlands*
friend: what are you doing?
me: *muffled because of the dirt* I’m having me time
another sketch of my dumbass healer Eathan don’t enable him
trying out a new style for like .09 seconds w a messy lil sketch
dysphoria 1.0
cast back to earth
monstober: fallen angel
artist tips
don’t save as jpeg
as a former yearbook editor and designer, let me explain this further
if youre only planning on posting your art online, them please save it as .png ;this is also better for transparencies as well
BUT
please, if youre planning of printing your art, NEVER use png. it makes the quality of the image pretty shitty. use jpeg or pdf instead. and always set your work at 300dpi to get a better printing quality - this means, the images are crisper and sharper and theres no slight blurriness. i had a talk with my friend who is currently taking design, and pdf is much better to use when youre working with a bigger publishing company because it still has the layers intact, but if youre only planning on printing your stuff at staples or at some small publishing store, the jpeg is the way to go.
this has been a public service announcement
I’ve replied to this once before but I see it’s doing the rounds again.
This is all utter bullshit.
I’m sorry but if your qualification is working on the school yearbook, you have no qualifications. Do not pretend otherwise. As a former professional photo manipulator for advertising brochures, I can say that you’re not comparing apples to oranges here - if anything, you’re comparing fruit to farmyard machinery:
JPEG is a lossy format. It is suitable for web imagery because it sacrifices detail for reduced file sizes, but in doing so it introduces artifacts that weren’t in the original; if you load a JPEG for editing, then save it as a different JPEG, then you’re adding more artifacts formed from those first artifacts. Do this often enough and you end up with a horrid glitchy mess that looks like a puddle’s reflection after a stone’s been thrown in. You’ve seen those memes that have 3 or 4 different “found at” tags along the bottom, that look like fingerpainted copies of the original? That’s why.
PNG is a lossless format that comes in two primary flavours, PNG-8 and PNG-24, which use 8 and 24 bit colour respectively. 8-bit colour is what you have in GIFs, a limit of just 256 different colours in a predetermined palette, usually automatically chosen by your software when saving. These files will look the same as GIFs, potentially with large patches of solid colour instead of the usual gradual shading seen in 24-bit imagery. This is usually better for small banners or pixel art, as it can yield smaller filesizes than GIF format. (There is an animated version called MNG but it has very little web support, hence the continued use of GIFs.)
PNG-24 is great for larger images where detail is as important as colour depth, as well as printable RGB images and (if supported by the client) full colour images with gradient transparencies. It most certainly does not make “the quality of the image pretty shitty,” as it preserves every nuance. File sizes can be smaller than JPEG for small images, or significantly larger for large images.
PDF is a container file, whatever you put into it will be pretty much preserved as it was, so you gain nothing but lose nothing.
TIFF is what you need to be using for archival or print-quality imagery. It has support for multiple layers, multiple colour channels (RGB as well as CMYK, which is essential for accurate print rendering), and everything is preserved exactly as it was seen on-screen when being composed. There are compressed versions available, they use similar methods to PNG in order to maintain detail without sacrifice; next to whatever your graphics program uses natively, this is the most interchangeable format available for professional use.
DPI is important only when used in combination with image dimensions; in and of itself it serves no purpose. If you make a brilliantly detailed 640x480 image & set it to 300dpi, you’ll receive a brilliantly detailed 2 inch x 1.6 inch print. This is great if you want to make a postage stamp, but not if you’re creating an A4 flyer! Determine the image’s dimension then set the DPI accordingly; 72dpi isn’t hideous especially for text-heavy work (it’s ~3 pixels per millimeter), and 150dpi can be suitable for many images. Unless you’re interested in photo realism, 300dpi is usually overkill - for our hypothetical A4 flyer, you’d need a file of 2490x3510 pixels for edge to edge printing, with a correspondingly high memory requirement and filesize even if using a compressed format.
Keeping the layers intact is utterly unimportant for print work unless you want to use a separated colour print method that requires multiple passes to lay down each ink. If you send a file with all the layers, masks, etc. off for printing you’re liable to get it sent back unactioned, as they won’t want to take responsibility for choosing the wrong elements for printing. Save your work with everything intact, then save a flattened copy especially for printing purposes - this is one of the reasons Save Copy As… is a common option in graphics manipulation software.
This has been a Public Service Rebuttal.
FUCKING THANK YOU
As a designer who’s worked a few years for a newspaper, I cannot begin to tell you how much OP’s post (edit: response, technically) made me cringe. I would have killed to get a photo as a TIFF for once instead of having to tear apart PDFs only to find a 50x100px 72dpi shitty JPEG inside for the 5 millionth time…
JPEG and PNG are best suited for web formats (and it is perfectly fine to save your web version as JPEG, that’s what it’s goddamn for). You will make a designer cry if you send a web-safe JPEG for print, however. And if you have a vectorized logo saved as EPS (or even better, AI), you will make that designer’s year.
Guys. Guys this is important.
This is very fucking important for me as a Media and Electronic student this saved my goddamn life.
Use TIFF yes better quality no artifacts
Who the hell thought that JPEG was less shitty than PNG?? Disturbing as hell.
art cheats
hello i am here today to not lose track of the art cheats i have discovered over the years. what i call art cheat is actually a cool filter/coloring style/way to shade/etc. that singlehandedly makes art like 20 times better
80’s anime style
glitch effect
glow effects
adding colors to grayscale paintings
foreshortening ( coil )
foreshortening ( perspective )
clipping group (lines)
clipping group (colors)
dramatic lighting ( GOOD )
shading metal
lighting faces
that is all for today, do stay tuned as i am always hunting for cool shit like this
guys stop reblogging this these are cheats the CIA will come for you
sometimes, they both need to feel safe
(dont reblog as kin/me/id/etc...)
Hope this can help you guys :)
So last night I was pretty high and thought lol ima draw a happy lil face in this banana cus why the fuck not
I CAME DOWNSTAIRS THIS MORNING AND NEARLY PISSED MYSELF
here’s a thing for ya boy Roman, because he’s a prince, and princes sometimes have dragon-sized struggles.
(click for better res)
horny on main for pointed ears
Reblog if you're an artist and we'll reblog your art!
Don’t be afraid to say hi! Or if you know an artist, share this with them! Our aim is for artists to find their audience and get their art out there!
Submit your art, get it shared and get inspired by other artists! @artist-promos
my boy, Lev
The big post of things about hands!!! I don’t consider myself qualified to teach art at this point in my life, but I don’t see any harm in sharing observations I have made. In learning to draw hands over the past few months I’ve tried to take a lot of notes, with the end goal of hopefully creating a video tutorial one day. I personally learn better from videos than written or illustrated instructions, but I’ve never found any one video that really demystifies drawing hands. I believe that in order to tackle such a difficult subject it is important to understand what makes it difficult, and this is not often addressed. If you understand the problems you can systematically solve them…
Drawing the hand is almost like drawing a whole person. Similar number of “major masses” and a big range of motion.
Because the hand is so versatile, it’s hard to pick a pose when practicing. Most individual body parts are drawn from different angles, whereas the hand must be drawn from different angles and in different poses.
Hands have a lot of moving parts and from any given angle many of these will be partially or wholly obscured by other parts. Drawing “through the form” results in confusing construction lines that are difficult to interpret.
Hands are expressive and give big clues as to what a character is doing. Odd or unnatural hand poses detract heavily from your overall piece. Most people avoid drawing hands because of this.
The thumb flexes along a different plane than the four fingers and sits on its own deviant metacarpal. Drawing the hand in perspective is hard enough, but adding the thumb in relation to the rest of the hand at a convincing angle? Forget about it!
Hands are typically simplified into box and cylinder forms, but almost every part of the hand is a combination of angles and curves. No one simplified form really describes these parts.
Hands interact with other objects, like all the time. They’re tricky enough to draw on their own… this isn’t helping anyone.
Hands have a lot of bony landmarks, veins, and tendons, all visible at the surface level. These are obstacles when trying to render them realistically.
Hands are asymmetrical from every angle. Every part, every time.
I think that about covers the major issues we face when trying to draw hands. Now here are some observations and facts that you can use to fight back!
The width of the first three fingers (index, middle and ring) is the same as the width of the wrist. The pinky and thumb both emanate from the parts of the palm that overhang this line.
The palm of the hand is more of a pentagon than a rectangle (Thanks, Jim Lee!).
The length of the middle finger is approximately the same as the length and width of the palm.
The length of the phalanxes (finger bones in this case) diminishes in size as they get further from the palm. The second (middle) phalanx is 2/3 the length of the first (proximal), and the third (distal) is 2/3 the length of the second. You don’t really notice this since the first knuckle is “inside” the palm and we tend to think of the fingers as starting at the “finger crotch”.
The thumb has no middle phalanx, only a proximal and a distal one.
The thumb is rotated 90 degrees from the angle of the four fingers. So the fingernails point “up” and the thumbnail points “to the side”. This obviously changes depending on the pose, but the thumbnail never really points “up” with the other fingernails unless it is bent backwards, as in poses when all five fingers are pressed against a flat surface. It never really points “down” unless the hand is clamping or pinching… or operating a sock puppet.
The thumb has to sit lower than the palm so that it can flex underneath the hand. The first knuckle of the thumb is almost as far below the index finger as the pinky is far away from the index finger.
The “webbing” of the thumb connects exactly half way up the palm.
Hands are asymmetrical from every angle. Every part, every time.
That is all the knowledge I have so far, and now you have it too! I don’t think any tutorial, video or otherwise, can ever teach you as much as the thousand observations you will make from drawing a thousand hands. There is no substitute for practice. So practice by looking at your hand from the normal vantage point, and from a mirror. Practice from 3D reference like the Handy Art Tool. Practice by copying other artists and animators whose hands appeal to you. Most of all, practice from imagination. PRACTICE! Below is every reference that I can remember that I’ve personally used while practicing hands:
http://www.handyarttool.com/
http://youtu.be/BAQb-5VKxmg
http://nk-chan.deviantart.com/art/mini-hand-tutorial-68320552
http://kibbitzer.deviantart.com/art/Hands-Reference-321600866
http://kibbitzer.deviantart.com/art/Hands-Reference-2-322546252
http://kibbitzer.deviantart.com/art/Hands-Reference-3-330102275
http://kibbitzer.deviantart.com/art/Hands-reference-4-428109721
http://characterdesignnotes.blogspot.com/2010/09/hand-reference.html
http://characterdesignnotes.blogspot.com/2010/09/hand-reference-part-two.html
http://characterdesignnotes.blogspot.com/2010/11/hand-reference-part-three.html
Do me a favor and share this around, will you? We could all use more light shed on this subject. -Aaron
flower taako, this is my life now i guess, sorry I can’t decide on a design :,D (c)