Doctor Strange Cosplay Tutorial (PART 3)
***Important Note: this is the only part of the entire tutorial that I enthusiastically suggest you sew, and learn some basic pleating/stitching!***
The first thing we’re going to need for this part is a big rectangle of dark blue fabric. To figure out approximately what size we need, we’re gonna take some measurements of ourselves, so grab a flexible measuring tape or whatever you’ve got on hand.
The length of the rectangle: First thing you wanna measure is the length from your shoulder to the tops of your knees; this is how long we’re going to make the robe. Write the length down in inches (or centimeters, if that’s your measurement system), and double it. This is how long the piece of cloth we’re going to need is. (Example: if your shoulder-to-knee measurement is 36 inches, I’m going to need a piece of fabric that’s 72 inches in length)
The width of the rectangle: Next, LOOSELY (we don’t want the robe to sit too tight, it’s a pretty loose article of clothing) measure the around the largest part of your waist. Write down that measurement and divide by half to get the width of fabric you want. (Example: if your waist size is loosely 40 inches around, you’re going to want the width of your fabric to be 20 inches across).
One last thing you’re going to measure is the width of one shoulder (from your neck to the tip of your shoulder). This is how wide we’re going to make the sleeves. Write that down and keep it for later; we won’t be needing it to measure our fabric. (We’ll use 8 inches for an example width).
Now grab your fabric. Measure out the length and width to form one large, long rectangle. To use some random example measurements, somethin like this:
Cut it out when you’re ready, and grab a fabric pencil/chalk/etc.
Trace down the exact center of each side to form a T shape, like this:
Cut your fabric along the dotted line. JUST THE DOTTED LINE. NOT THE SOLID LINE. JUST. THE DOTTED.
Alright! You’ve got the basic shape of the robe down, nice! Now we’re going to work on the pleats. This part isn’t really an exact science; it’s more of a guess-and-check kind of thing.
Start off by drawing five equally spaced lines on each side of your fabric. You should have ten in total. These are the rough markers for where you want your pleats to go.
Pleat along each line. You can google how to pleat, but essentially for now all you want to do is pinch the fabric along each line, forming a small fold, and pin it like so:
Do that with each pleat line you traced onto your fabric, and ignore my other scribbles:
When each pleat has been pinned, you’re going to start folding each one outwardly, away from the center cut line, one over the other, to form five roughly similar pleats. Each side should shrink in length as you pleat. This is where our last measurement comes in; make sure each side of the fabric is the same length as your shoulder width when you’ve finished all the pleats.
Measure, adjust, and fiddle with the fabric until it looks like the image above. Make sure you have both sides of the fabric pleated, and that they mirror each other. Pin the pleats firmly in place once you’re happy.
This is where I highly suggest you sew; you can stitch each pleat in place individually, or run one long seam along the center line. Either way, just make sure to stitch each pleat down firmly so that they won’t move anywhere. This part of the costume is going to be flexing and shifting and under stress as the wearer moves about, so you want this to really hold together.
Once the pleats have been sewn in place, shake the robe out and try it on to make sure no last adjustments are necessary. Slip each front flap over your shoulders, with center seam resting on the tops of your shoulders and the end of the center cut positioned at the nape of your neck. It should look a bit like a wonky poncho with a slit down the middle:
Adjust the length or anything else necessary, if you need to.
Last thing we’re going to do is cover all the raw cut edges! Do this with blanket or quilt binding (it may also be called bias tape, etc) and hot glue. I’m using pink here for an example but use a similarly colored blue, please:
Unfold your binding and sandwich the raw edge inside. Hot glue in place. Bam! Covered!
Do this with every raw edge you have until you end up with something like this:
Stephen’s robes appear to be layered, so if you have some spare binding, you can fake this look by adding multiple layers of fabric/binding underneath each other for the bottom hem:
That’s all for this part, stay tuned for the next!