Art Encounter Through the Years: The First Encounters
It was in France and Spain that I got the so-called baptism of fire in the appreciation of arts. My first museum visit was in Paris at Musée d’Orsay, home of the largest collection of Impressionist paintings in the world. It was by accident that we got to the Orsay as we would have preferred to visit the Louvre instead. But the lines were long and we didn’t have time to wait that long. I never regretted the visit to the Orsay. It is a bit smaller and more manageable than the Louvre. Smaller is a relative word because the Musée d’Orsay is actually not small. You could easily spend the whole day exploring it. It’s just that the Louvre is humongous and needs several days to explore.
Since it was my first museum visit, overwhelmed is an understatement to describe it. I was mesmerized and dumbfounded to say the least. Never in my life have I imagined these many great artists and their beautiful artworks exist and that you can spend a whole day exploring them ad still you didn’t finish looking at all of them. And this was just a single museum. How many museums like this are there in the world?
Bal du Moulin de la Galette (1876) Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Musée d’Orsay, Paris, France
One of the few artworks that I remembered admiring then was Bal du Moulin de la Galette, one of Renoir’s most important works and one of Impressionism’s most highly revered masterpieces.
The Moulin de la Galette was an open-air dance hall in Paris in the 1870s. Open-air dance halls were very popular in 19th-century France and were a great source of entertainment for the people. Most people went there not to dance, but just to watch the dancers and enjoy the relaxed atmosphere.
Pierre-Auguste Renoir (1841-1919) is a French painter from Limoges in the middle of France. He is one of the founders of Impressionism, together with artists like Cézanne, Degas, Manet, and Monet. The Impressionists focused on the effects of light and often painted outside. Renoir’s opinion about art was that it should be pretty and he mostly painted very happy scenes.
The Burial of the Count of Orgaz (1586) El Greco. Iglesia de Santo Tomé, Toledo, Spain
On my visit to Toledo, an ancient city an hour away from Madrid, I became a fan of Mannerist painter El Greco who calls Toledo his home. The above artwork was the first time an artwork was explained extensively by a local tour guide and so it was quite memorable. I listened intently, amazed at how much details an artist can reveal in his work.
The Burial of the Count of Orgas is widely considered one of El Greco’s masterpieces. The painting depicts a popular legend, regarding the Count of Orgas, who was a pious man, and who upon his death left a large sum of money to the church. The legend tells that Saint Stephen and Saint Augustine descended from heaven at his funeral and buried them with their own hands. Andres Nunes, the parish priest of Sao Tome, was the commissioner of the work, who intended it for a project to refurbish the Count’s burial chapel. According to the commission, the observers of the burial were to be portraits of the notable men of Toledo at the time. Included also are portraits of El Greco and his son, the only two people in the painting looking front at the viewer. The artist signed his name in the handkerchief of his son. All the small details pointed to us by the guide as we viewed this masterpiece.
Domenikos Theotokopoulos, other wise known as “El Greco” due to his Greek heritage, was a popular Greek painter, sculptor, and architect of the Spanish Renaissance. He was a master of post-Byzantine art by the age of 26, when he traveled to Venice, and later Rome, where he opened his first workshop. Unlike other artists, El Greco altered his style in order to distinguish himself from other artists of the time, inventing new and unusual interpretations of religious subject matter. He created agile, elongated figures, and included a vibrant atmospheric light. After the death of Raphael and Michelangelo, he was determined to leave his own artistic mark, and offered to paint over Michelangelo’s Last Supper to Pope Pius V. His unconventional artistic beliefs (his dislike of Michelangelo included), along with his strong personality, led to the development of many enemies in Rome, especially the hostilities of art critics.
Las Meninas (1656) Diego Velázquez. Baroque. Museo Nacional Del Prado, Madrid, Spain
Back to Madrid, on our last day, I chose to visit Museo Nacional del Prado, the main Spanish national art museum. This time I am prepared to face a multitude of artworks. But based on what I saw in Musée d’Orsay, I was not prepared to see a different kind of art - Spanish art and the prevalence of the Baroque style. From the many works of art at the Prado, Las Meninas has caught my eye. I lingered longer in front of this art piece than at any other works. Something in it is unique from my untrained but appreciative eye. You must remember that internet was still in its infancy in 1999. I was new in art and I didn’t know that this was one of the most important artworks in history. Only when I researched back home did I understand the importance of this work in art.
“One of the most famous and controversial artworks of all time, Las Meninas (The Maids of Honour) is regarded as a dialogue between artist and viewer, with its double mirror imagery and sketchy brushwork that brings every figure and object in the room to life" - from the book, 30,000 Years of Art. "Painters as diverse as Goya, Manet, Sargent and Picasso have been inspired to create copies and adaptations after Velázquez’s masterpiece.”
Diego Rodríguez de Silva y Velázquez (1599-1660) was a Spanish painter, the leading artist in the court of King Philip IV, and one of the most important painters of the Spanish Golden Age. He was an individualistic artist of the contemporary Baroque period. In addition to numerous renditions of scenes of historical and cultural significance, he painted scores of portraits of the Spanish royal family, other notable European figures, and commoners, culminating in the production of his masterpiece Las Meninas.
The Garden of Earthly Delights (1503-1515) Hieronymus Bosch. Northern Renaissance. Museo Nacional del Prado, Madrid, Spain
Another work of note which has impressed me at the Prado was The Garden of Earthly Delights by Hieronymus Bosch. The intricacy of the work is amazing and a short glance was simply not enough. There is a story you have to look for and many small details to examine which made me remember the work.
By far the best known and most ambitious work, The Garden of Earthly Delights illustrates Bosch’s individual artistic style, containing the most vivid imagery and complexity of symbolic meaning. The triptych is generally thought to be a warning of the dangers of giving in to temptation, but has been subject to vast amounts of conjecture and scrutiny, and critics and historians are split in two directions. Whereas some believe that the middle panel, which depicts a fantastical world of nudes in sexual engagement, large fruits, and other suggestive elements, is simply an illustration of paradise lost, others believe that it is a moral warning, which will lead you to hell, as it is depicted in the third panel of the series. Although there are many contradictory explanations, it is generally thought to be a warning against lust, one of the seven deadly sins.
Hieronymus Bosch born Jheronimus van Aken c. 1450 – 9 August 1516) was a Dutch/Netherlandish painter from Brabant. He is one of the most notable representatives of the Early Netherlandish painting school. His work contains fantastic illustrations of religious concepts and narratives. Within his lifetime his work was collected in the Netherlands, Austria, and Spain, and widely copied, especially his macabre and nightmarish depictions of hell.
Bartolomé Esteban Murillo. Staue in bronze by Sabino de Medina . Plaza del Museo, Seville, Spain
During my first visit to the city of Seville, I chanced upon seeing this monument of Sevillian painter Murillo and the museum across it. It was located about a minute or two from the small hotel we booked. Since everyone was tired and wants to rest, I decided to pay a visit to this museum on my own. I got the surprise of my life when I went to explore this seemingly small museum. First, it was not small inside and the works on exhibit were by far the most extensive collection of Spanish works of art I’ve seen even to this day. And the grandeur of the architecture and interior of the sala was something I have never expected to find inside this local museum. Even the beautiful gardens and several courtyards are a nice addition to explore. The main gallery dedicated to the works of Murillo, together with its grand cupola is located in the former antigua iglesia and is one of the most magnificent exhibition halls I’ve been.
The Museo (Museum of Fine Arts), Sevilla, was established as a "Museum to display paintings", by Royal Decree on 16 September 1835, with objects from convents and monasteries seized by the liberal government presided by Mendizábal. It is located in the Plaza del Museo, in the place of the former Convento de la Merced Calzada founded on lands transferred by Ferdinand III after conquering Sevilla.
It has magnificent works of art by Murillo, Zurbarán, Valdés Leal and other representatives of the Seville school. True enough, due to the quality of the art, it is today considered as the second best gallery in Spain.
In 2017, I was back in Seville after 18 years and I didn’t pass on the chance to visit one of my favourite museums again. After visiting many museums through the years, Museo de Bellas Artes in Seville still leaves me in awe of the beautiful works of art. The fascination was still there. Only this time, I am more knowledgeable about arts and museums and I can better appreciate everything in this museum. Still, I loved this museum. I still haven’t met anyone who’s visited this museum. It’s somewhat off the beaten path where museums are concerned. I’m glad to have been there not once but twice. It’s my secret gem of a museum.
Visiting the grand main gallery of Museo de Bellas Artes. Paintings in the background are by Bartolomé Esteban Murillo including Inmaculada Concepcion “La Colosal” in the center.
Cristo Crucificado, a series of paintings on Jesus on the cross by Francisco de Zurbarán, a Spanish painter known primarily for his religious paintings depicting monks, nuns, and martyrs, and for his still-lifes. Zurbarán gained the nickname "Spanish Caravaggio," owing to the forceful use of chiaroscuro in which he excelled.