ginger_and_annoyed

[gingerandannoyed]

Postcards fae Fife (part 3)

We headed out early to the promised land of Reillys Shellfish Shack in Crail to get in the queue for their infamous lobster rolls. It was worth the wait and the disappointment of yesterday! We shared a whole lobster and each had a roll whilst the dogs looked on in furious envy. It was absolutely delicious. The dogs agreed as I found them a tiny morsel of lobster to try. From ex-street dogs to holidaying lobster munchers! Not a bad turnaround for them really.

We then spent the rest of the afternoon on Kingsbarns beach. Fantastic. I love a nice quiet beach and this is a gem, away from the hustle of nearby St Andrews. Again, it reminds me of Cornwall when we used to go to Daymer Bay and traipse a good 45 minutes to find the quiet part. Worth the trek though! Although it rained a little, a good time was had by all. Bramble had her now customary bark at the sea whilst Candy paddled in the shallows and played with a friendly labradoodle pup.

The evening was spent in the company of some of Becca's lovely friends who happened to be in St Monans too. We met up at Anstruther Fish Bar for their world renowned fish and chips and headed back to their little cottage, followed by a blustery walk along St Monans pier.

Tonight is our last night and it's been a good little trip. Hope you've enjoyed the ramblings of a madman.

[gingerandannoyed]

Postcards fae Fife (part two)

Thursday began with a false start. We planned to go to the lobster shack at Crail which serves freshly caught lobster and crab rolls. Unfortunately roadworks trapped us in St Monans for an extra 20 minutes, meaning we got to the shack just as they had sold out for the day. Never mind! Up earlier tomorrow to see if we can sample.

Then, onto my beloved St Andrews. Many of my memories of my home of four years are now tinged with bittersweetness, so it only seems right to make some new ones. We sat in St Mary's Quad and ate some trendy Korean fare and then onto Janetta's for some excellent ice-cream. It's a strange experience to visit somewhere that you first encountered in 2003. Whilst many of the older institutions have remained intact, many places had become extremely upmarket. It was always a posh place, full of 'yahs', but it seems to have undergone a bizarre upper-class gentrification. Perhaps a Georgification as it feels just like Edinburgh's well-heeled George Street. Memories of 2003 are made to feel almost rather like living in a working class town.

We finished our trip down at the East Sands beach. This was the place of many a bonfire around which, many songs were sung, much beer was drunk and many friendships made. Today however was characterised by Bramble deciding to bark at the sea because she didn't like the breaking of the waves.

Dinner was back to St Monans where we got stuck in at the East Pier Smokehouse. Whole smoked seabass was the highlight with an excellent white chocolate panacotta. Smoked fish down the east of Fife? Completed it mate. Our nightcap was a swim to bass rock, where the rainbow pointed us towards out fortune. Alas, it was simply cormorant shit.

[gingerandannoyed]

Postcards fae Fife (part 1)

Getting away seems like an immense privilege at the moment. Fortunately in Scotland, we are surrounded by excellent places for a few days away. Even though I went to university at St Andrews, I'd never properly explored the East Neuk of Fife. We found a charming little flat called the Puffin Place in St Monans. A quick Tuesday evening jaunt around this lovely place evoked memories of the fishing villages of Cornwall we used to go to in the caravan holidays of the 90s and early 2000s. The steep and narrow streets, coupled with the harbour and the deep smell of freshly caught fish could have easily been in Port Isaac hundreds of miles away.

Wednesday brought a good walk along the Fife coastal path to Pitenweem. The dogs loved this part- lots of interesting sniffs for Bramble (who prefers a more sensory experience in her middle age), and loads of interesting pools on the rocky beach for Candy to leap around in and try to find dead crab snacks. There was a small art festival when we arrived, although the pandemic had sufficed to decimate the bulk of it. Lunch was in a quirky chippy/tavern/pub/cafe and was unsurprisingly a surfeit of fish.

The evening found us on a soggy drive to Elie. It's a charming wee place and we picked up delicious treats from it's deli. We paired the hot smoked salmon with a cucumber grown in my greenhouse and some strong Brie with sourdough crackers from Peter's Yard (seriously recommend these!).

Elie felt a little more like one of the surfing towns of our Cornish holidays, perhaps Polzeath, with a plethora of activity in the choppy sea.

We finished the evening watching 28 Days Later. Because that's what you do in a pandemic.

[gingerandannoyed]

Dan's adventures in Italy Day 8: Lake Garda

I'd been recommended Lake Garda by several people so I took the bus on the Monday to the town of Garda. It's a breathtaking place with stunning views of the lake surrounded by mountainous areas. It felt kinda prehistoric and that I would maybe see the Italian Nessie. Nezzie perhaps. The little town centre was also very quaint, with it's little boutique shops and tiny restaurants. It's pretty indescribable so here are some pics.

By a stroke of good fortune, my colleague Debbie and her husband were travelling around europe too and just happened to be in Garda. We met for a delicious lunch of grilled fish then parted ways and I went for a further explore. I'd learned on this trip that I just try to do too much and pack a lot in. So I let the rest of the afternoon gloss over me and I read by the side of the lake which lapped up against the hulls of boats of all sizes. Simple pleasures.

[gingerandannoyed]

Dan's adventures in Italy Day 7: Verona day 2

Sunday morning was a lazy affair. After several early mornings I gave myself a break then ventured into town. It seems that Verona also gives itself a break on Sundays and there was very little open so I sauntered around Castle Vecchio with it's stunning bridge and took in a few more sights from the outside. Not much to write home about today really so here's some pics.

In the evening I chose a decent place to eat. It was here that I found Italian men live up to their stereotype. As I was ordering, the waiter (and owner) had his eye caught by two pretty ladies. He made a beeline for them before I had finished ordering then returning only when they were seated. I couldn't help but just laugh. The food was good though and my starter of Smoked Trout Carpaccio with Mango was excellent.

During my meal I sat and watched the Wimbledon Men's Tennis Final whilst repeatedly refreshing the cricket world cup score. An incredible victory for England (if not somewhat fortunate) and a final that will be talked about for years to come.

On my way home I unexpectedly came across the Juliet balcony- something I had not been that bothered about seeing as she is a fictional character- and I was actually quite taken in by the spectacle. More that there was a huge crowd and the close was covered in notes, probably from one lover to another. I couldn't believe that there was so many gullible people. It did reinforce my own beliefs about capitalism though. There is the argument that capitalism exploits gaps in the market to drive profit. I say that it manufactures them to create false gaps. But that's an argument for another day!

[gingerandannoyed]

Dan's adventures in Italy Day 6: Onto Verona

On day six, I said goodbye to Venice and onto the city of Verona but I punctuated this journey with a stop in Padua. It's another pretty student town and when I found that it was market day, I was like a pig in shit. Whilst there was not much for me, I love the thrall of a market and I still came away with two delicious pots of honey.

I made it to Verona in good time to be greeted by the most almighty squall. Rain and hail bounced off the pavement like golf balls. I took refuge in the station until this passed and then found my next Airbnb, a delightful wee air conditioned (thankfully as it was still very warm!) flat.

The previous night I had bought myself tickets for the opera. This would be my first opera and I would be seeing Carmen. I had bought the cheap seats (a very reasonable 26 euros) which were actually quite special. You simply sit on the stone steps of the old amphitheatre- an old Colosseum type of Arena- exposed to whatever the night may bring. I bought a cushion (having been forewarned to do so) but had not layered up so felt a bit chilly up in the nosebleeds. But I didn't envy the people who had bought the 180 euro seats at the front. Who wants to sit with kings when you can sit amongst the gods?

The spectacle was magical, the setting incredible. The singing was obviously insanely good too, but what really caught my eye was the clever use of set. Lots of pieces moved in and out of one another to create the story with some excellent lighting and projection provided some much needed context. Thankfully there was also a subtitles board that translated into English too, in case you wanted to join in or smack down a karaoke version. Opera lyrics are weird though, you're basically singing a conversation at someone. Something I may try when I'm home. I thoroughly enjoyed my evening. It was the place to go and see an opera and will be a once in a lifetime experience. But I just don't get opera so at least my sole experience was in a place that truly spoiled me.

[gingerandannoyed]

Dan's adventures in Italy Day 5: Second Day in Venice

On the previous night, I got my first pang of loneliness. Venice, a city for lovers, appeared to be taunting me. Bridges adorned with hand-clasped couples crossed canals which whispered sweet nothings, and old love songs carried on the faint midnight breeze.

I woke the following morning with a plan to get up and get out. Venice in the morning is quite a sight to behold. The sunrise making the canals sing, the bridges now utilitarian as people get to work.

The morning was spent on a guided tour of Doge Palace (wow, much picture, big amaze) and St Mark's church. I would recommend one of these tours as it was a queue jumper. It was a little pricey but the guide was great and it saved waiting in line for hours. Both are stupendous pieces of architecture and inside are equally as stunning, if not obscene displays of wealth. What I have found in Italy is that they take their faith very seriously. You are not allowed to be dressed inappropriately. This was particularly stark in Venice where the entrance to the church had rules which were basically "No Boobs, No Shoulders, No Knees". Screw being chaste if it means finding a knee too sexy to cope. This, the city of Cassanova, finds a shoulder too hot to handle. But I fell in love with her contradictions.

The afternoon was spent at the Bienniale in the Arsenale. It's an arts festival and I was treated to some really spectacular visual pieces, with the theme being "May you live in interesting times". My favourite was a really moving piece about censorship. A room was littered with spikes, each with a piece of paper on them which contained a quote by someone imprisoned for speaking their mind. Above each spike, a microphone turned into a radio. In turn the quotes were read out, often in unison from all the voices coming out the mics. It was an exceptionally moving piece as the next quote would start randomly in the room. It was a warning that it could always be you that was next. Brilliant, but chilling.

I finished my evening by trying some ciccetti- small pieces of bread with various toppings. They were to die for and the flavour combinations were insane but perfect. I stood and drank my wine whilst soaking in this classic Venetian bar, then went to bed a contented man.

[gingerandannoyed]

Dan's adventures in Italy Day 4: First Day in Venice

I caught an early train to Venice from Ravenna with thankfully no delays today. It was still a 3.5 hour trip so I wanted to maximise my day.

Venice is a totally mad place. If Italy is a collection of city states, Venice and all her islands seem to be the perfect microcosm, with each island appearing to have it's own nanoculture. I populated my afternoon with a boat trip (I just wanted to sing The Lonely Island's "I'm on a boat" again after my sail down Ullswater last week) which took me to the smaller islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano.

Murano is famous for it's glass. We had a brief demonstration from one of the glass blowers who made a vase and then made a horse. A bloody horse. It was quite something to watch someone do something so intricate (with something so hot) and yet with such ease.

Torcello was totally different. It had a wee museum and church on it, and it simply felt different. There were few houses and it felt almost kinda wild and swampy, like being on the Everglades or something.

My favourite was Burano. It is renowned for it's fishing and it's colourful chocolate box houses with boutique-y shops littered everywhere. It was almost like Port Isaac (a fantastic wee place in Cornwall) had been picked up and moved here, then given a Mediterranean palette.

We also went past a small island which houses a monastery. It is genuinely like every island has it's own function. It's a totally bonkers place. In evening, I took a leisurely stroll around the old Jewish Ghetto. My favourite thing to do on holiday is to simply wander up and down old streets and get a feel for the age and the stories. I could not have found a better place to do it.

There is nothing anywhere like Venice. It smells funny, it's expensive and it's insanely busy. But hellfire, I wouldn't swap being anywhere else in the world right now such is it's unique charm.

[gingerandannoyed]

Dan's adventures in Italy Day 3: Trip to Ravenna

Today I encountered my first few issues on my travels. My train ride from Bologna to Ravenna was due to last just over an hour. Instead, we broke down just outside Ravenna (literally about 2 miles) and were stuck on the train for 4 hours! Some folk got so annoyed that they forced the doors open, crossed the track (where several high speed trains were passing) and walked the rest of the way. I decided against that, with my too-polite-to-cause-a-fuss Britishness and my safety first trade union face both winning over reckless endeavour. I got talking to lots of people and we bonded over our predicament- the brits amongst us seeing the humour in the situation and becoming increasingly manic.

Then a strap on my backpack broke as did my headphones. First world problems and like a proper Cumbrian, I 'codged' my backpack back together. Sadly the headphones are un-codgeable without some duck tape and bale twine. I do not know the Italian for bale twine.

Anyway, exploring the town of Ravenna was a delight. There are several UNESCO world heritage sites here, which preserve the mosaics in various Basilicas and Mausoleums. The difference in culture here was palpable- it felt distinctly more Byzantine and perhaps even some faint Moorish feeling influences. I love towns that are coastal (or near coastal). The various imperialistic ventures which have passed through them make them much more interesting and diverse. It felt ever so slightly like being back in Barcelona or Lisbon, simply for the displays of colour and intricate design. And yes, the pictures in this blog post are all of mosaics even though they may look like paintings, they're that good. The town itself is a classic- winding little side streets with cafes and bars adorning the squares.

I finished the night with a stunning meal- Tuna Tataki followed by a Coffee and Chocolate semifreddo. The tuna was served pink and was set off by some delicious slivers of pickled sweet onion. Best meal so far.

Off to Venice today so my three hour train journey (fingers crossed for no issues). Ciao for now xxx

[gingerandannoyed]

I'm no longer as young as I was, but I can tell you this, you never say no to the opportunity to piss, to eat or to get half an hour's shut eye.

Neil Gaiman, American Gods.

[gingerandannoyed]

Dan's adventures in Italy Day 2, part 2: Bologna culture

I don't really care for religion much, but I bloody love a church. I spent the late afternoon investigating two of Bologna's finest Basilicas- San Domenico and San Petronio.

I dived into San Domenico to avoid the deluge taking place after the clouds broke. I love the peace of a church and how it feels it almost has a negative decibel rating. You can hear your heart and breathing. Sitting in the silence made the thunderstorm outside seem ever more dramatic. The church shook with each crack and I felt like I would leave this place of sanctuary to find the world outside no longer existed and I would be in an apocalyptic movie. Perhaps the religious iconography (there was an early Michaelangelo in there- see the pics for the obvious precursor to David) had invoked some sort of existential crisis.

As an atheist I feel pretty jealous that religious institutions have these vast places for silence and quiet reflection. We all have our safe spaces, be it a beach or a woodland. But wouldn't it be nice if there was a committed building like a church where people could just go to be silent, but for all people. Maybe I'll build one and fill it with lovely art.

A brief excursion past the two towers, one of which has a bigger lean than Pisa, filled my Lord of the Rings geekery and I ventured into San Petronio. This was more stunning that the beautiful Domenico. I loved all the artwork on the ceilings and gazing up at it made it feel like it was rotating on it's axis. It felt bigger than it was- like the art was a representation of the stars in the galaxy and these mere idols, were exactly that. It did a great job in convincing me that there was so much more to life and so much more knowledge to discover that these incredible displays of art and history rendered themselves insignificant. Perhaps religion will simply end up eating itself.

[gingerandannoyed]

Dan's adventures in Italy Day 2: Bologna Food Tour

This is my first ever solo trip and I have been suitably anxious about how this would play out. I'm naturally a people person and an extrovert, so was a bit concerned about how I would find this holiday. Turns out it's pretty straightforward- just book onto something. I booked onto a 2.5 hour food and drink tour and turned up to find another three English people on the tour, one of whom was also a solo traveller. Well played Dan Holland.

Our tour guide was Benadetta, an easy going Italian girl with excellent English (much better than my Italian which consists of me saying please, thank you and 'Inglese' whilst manically pointing at my typically embarrassed self).

We started in the Mercato dell Erbe, a lovely indoor market with every fruit imaginable lining the stalls the cherries in particular, look incredible. Our first taster was Piande (a sort of flat bread sandwich) followed by a pizza/foccacia mash up. It was great but we followed this up with a huge meat and cheese platter which was the highlight, with all ingredients locally reared or sourced. The food was obviously stunning but Benadetta took us to this hidden bar that only locals went to and it made my day. The benches were lined with old Bolognese people happily eating on similar platters or playing cards. All this in a bar which served only beer and wine- not a single soft drink, even water, was on offer. I opted for a red lambrusco. This is a sparkling red wine. A sparkling red wine. Unheard of in Britain (well certainly in my house unless you count a cheap vin de pays d'Oc mixed with a can of Monster).

Already quite full up, we trundled down some pretty side streets and were greeted by some delicious pasta, where I opted for a delicious nettle tagliatelle Ragu. We finished off with a sumptuous dark chocolate with cherries and a salted pistachio gelato. The food has been great so far and there is a very simple reason why Bologna is called 'The Fat'. I may come home as Dan Holland 'The Fat(ter)'.

In the evening I took in a recommendation from Benadetta (and also a colleague) for Osteria dell Orsa, a charming local restaurant with a handful of simple items on the menu. The tortelloni in broth looked pretty basic but it was utterly delicious. Washed down with a couple of local beers and some attractive (albeit platonic) company, it was a great end to the day.

[gingerandannoyed]

Dan's adventures in Italy: Bologna Day 1

Yes. I'm going to write a one of those wanky travel blogs. Why? Because I'm a pretentious wanker. I'm also going to start it with a wanky semi non sequitur. Why? Because I'm a pretentious wanker, which you should know by now through the opening gambit or just simply by knowing me.

I judge a new place by it's attitude to dogs. Bologna seems dog-friendly and there are loads of breeds and owners around who seem responsible. This is a good start. I even saw a collie today, on a day when Archie (my collie) had further good news from the vets. Clearly, this was meant to be. End of semi non sequitur.

I jumped off the bus straight into the town centre and went for a wander. My Airbnb wasn't available for a few hours so I sunk a couple of large beers on the main square (Piazza Maggiore) in the sweltering sun then treated myself to an ice cream whilst I poured over a local map. I was happy to find that it seemed like quite a small place. I'm used to walking across Edinburgh city centre so this appeared to be pretty straightforward. After checking into my first ever Airbnb (a lovely room with marble floors and a veranda) I ambled through the Porticos (covered streets), checking out some of the anti-fascist graffiti adorning the pillars (Bologna has a rich left wing history and is one of the reasons I chose to visit- thanks Ash Sarkar and Franco 'Bifo' Berardi) until I found a recommended place (https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUserReviews-g187801-d2045586-r193591795-Cafe_Zanarini-Bologna_Province_of_Bologna_Emilia_Romagna.html) for a cheeky Negroni and a wee read. I was grateful for the Porticos as a brief thunderstorm hit and we were subject to a very short shower

Strolling down the street to La Sberla (https://m.facebook.com/lasberlabistrot.it/) was a pleasant and sobering up experience in the 30C+ heat and I proceeded to smash some bread stuffed with anchovies, veal with ham and cheese, and a panacotta with caramel and salted chocolate (this was the highlight), all washed down with a bottle of Gradizzolo.

So far, so friendly. And everyone speaks decent English and I wander round in utter embarrassment at my basic Italian. The strangest thing so far has been the prevalence of condom vending machines every so often. If this were in the UK, they'd be smashed open by several 14 year olds who would then blow them up for a laugh. If they were making balloon poodles, you could understand. But I fear the heat is getting to me as I digress into nonsense, so I will sign off for the night.

Ciao xxx

[gingerandannoyed]

A write up of my Romania adventure

[gingerandannoyed]

Last day at the shelter today! Actual sad face. Some snaps of the shelter here. Please donate/sponsor/adopt through www.barkingmaddogrescue.co.uk It's been one hell of a ride.

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This poor chap was hit by a car the other night. Doing much better now although will sadly have to have an eye removed.

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Pickups and puppies. The first four pics are a couple of pickups from the streets. The first one I called Zoe and she has already been reserved. She came out of her shell very quickly after being scared for the first day. The little black one is Chico. Again he was a scared little mite but now he's in full on puppy mode- he likes to chew toes! The others are ones at the shelter.