Found a website with a ton of free sewing and knitting patterns. They are in German and don't have the most size inclusive but there's lots of potentially cool patterns
Von der Häkeljacke über den Strickpullover bis zu Makramée-Lampe für Groß & Klein. DIY-Ideen für alle Niveaustufen. Viel Spaß beim Stöbern!
Once commercial yarn was invented and women were not spinning it themselves, yarn producers realized it made a lot of sense to feed the hunger for new patterns. You see here a page taken from a free publication which you will find at the Antique Pattern Library online.
Because of black and white movies, and the modern tendency for movie directors to make everyone wear sepia tones in historical stories, we often forget that the people of the past lived with just as much color as well do. You see here 1920s sweaters with some very playful coloring especially the lower right-hand picture. But all of them have some color play if only tipping. Notice that the waists are not well marked, and belts tended to fall lower and looser. This is in keeping with the tube silhouette which became so popular during the 1920s and made women try to flatten out all of their curves. Dropped collars were also popular in the 1910s and in the early 1920s.
For more free knitting and crochet patterns and dressmaking directions from the early 20th century and earlier, go here: www.AntiquePatternLibrary.com
Let’s use two vintage knitting patterns to discuss how a modern (or of the era knitter) might look at them.
First off, let’s look at a dressing jacket. This is something that might also be called a bed jacket. Most patterns have them tied shut with ribbons, but covalescent / male versions sometimes had buttons on the shoulder, and a shortened back (so the sweater wouldn’t catch under the body, or overheat the bits of you that were warm from the covers.
Here’s the Ravelry link for this jacket, and the actual pattern on Trove. The needle size is an interesting thing since you have no way of knowing if you’re talking UK needle sizes, millimeter sizes, or US sizes save by the origin of the pattern, the era, and the yarn. In baby weight yarn, this will come out to a generous 52″ chest with no waist shaping on US 3 needles (less about 2″ if you put in buttons along the front band instead of ribbon.) Since it’s garter stitch, it will stretch in length and in size easily, so the original size would be quite forgiving.
40″ in this time period was often a plus size, or a “matron” size. In 30′s to 40′s patterns, a matron was someone who was married and had children, versus a college aged student or an older teen. 34 to 36″ was a “generic” woman’s size, and a 38″ chest was a common man’s size. While clothing sizes aren’t particularly useful, a size 4 to 8 would be your generic, and a 12 would be your matron.
Now, before you say that this is the Depression and you’re dealing with starving skinny people, bear in mind that you’re coming out of the 20′s, and a lot of fashionable women are still wearing corsets in some manner and low flattening bust support. This would draw your shoulders back (changing how your sleeves fit, and the resulting width of them) and reduce your bust measurement.
A 1950′s sweater, in comparison, would be sized for the pointy bust support that you would see in that era, and a 1940′s man’s sweater will often end “high” compared to what you might expect. This is due to high waistlines on trousers, and yarn shortages leading to reduced sizing. A good example of this would be these make do and mend socks made by Retro Claude. Note the very short height of the socks. While they use very little yarn, and allow you to use scraps, they’re also clearly designed to be the minimum height possible.
Moving past sizing and design concerns, one simple sign that this is a vintage pattern is that it’s designed to be a seamed garment. Double pointed needles and circular needles were not usually used in garment knitting in the 30′s, so you often knit things in pieces and then seam them together. A seamed garment does gain some structure and strength from seams, and it’s a lot easier to steam / press a flat shape rather than a tube.
There’s also some out of the ordinary knitting terminology with using “Wool forward” or “make one” instead of yarn over, and one immediately obvious probable typo (you knit 10 stitches to make the front band, but the purl row on row 4 does not mention avoiding purling in the front band.)
Swapping over to a man’s pattern, here’s the Ravelry link to a man’s vest. Here’s the original pattern from Trove. Sizing wise, this is fairly close to the actual chest size it says it should be in the original gauge. Vests are often knitted at 1 - 2″ smaller than the listed chest size to provide some trim smooth lines under a jacket and to not stretch to fit poorly over the shoulders. The back pattern piece makes it clear that the diagonal ribbing is a sort of two stitch wide ribbing knit in an angled V pointed at the center, so you would get some pulling in and smoothness from the ribbing wanting to contract, but not as much as if it was simple vertical ribbing.
When I first looked at the pattern, I was baffled. It starts with casting on two stitches, then you knit in the back of the cast on while you twist your stitches (this tightens your cast on to make your stitches appear more even and smooth.) Then the next row says you cast on two more, then knit two stitches and purl two stitches.
It took an embarassingly long time to realize they meant you cast on stitches on the left needle (resulting in four stitches,) and then continue to knit those two new stitches and your two older stitches in the pattern.
As a fun game for new knitters, the pattern also assumes that by row 12 you can read the stitch pattern, and you know where to put your knits and purls to continue it, even when increasing the number of added stitches per row. (The pattern, mind you, is simply moving one stitch over every other row, but I could not have discovered that without seeing the actual pattern in the yarn.)
There is some shaping in this garment, so you’d be advised to check your gauge against the stitch count before the armhole, the one at the button band (since that would be roughly a waist measurement, but remember to subtract the size of the buttonband once to account for the overlap) and the same for the back at the cast on and the armholes.
Christmas in July is a great nudge to not leave all your projects to the last minute... so snag this list of free crochet, knit, and craft patterns!
Christmas in July is a great nudge to not leave all your projects to the last minute... so snag this list of free crochet, knit, and craft patterns! ♥
https://www.mooglyblog.com/christmas-in-july-patterns/
Yarnspirations has pooled together 137 knit and crochet patterns. It’s a huge assortment of patterns that include clothing, afghans, blankets and even home decor.
It’s a true privilege that one of my patterns was able to be part of the banner for this collection. I never take that acknowledgement for granted.