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Further Afield// Theatre

The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Night-Time

Gielgud Theatre, Shaftesbury Avenue, London

Having recently begun teaching in my NQT year, and being overambitious by nature, I of course opted for a West End theatre visit with 40 kids for my first school trip. Terrifying as the responsibility was, and despite the sleepless nights prior to going - what if I lose a child? What if one of the normally-placid and well-mannered students decide the climax of the play to be the point at which they turn into the Hulk? - it was worth the effort.

Not only was it remarked by a fellow teacher that they had never seen students so rapt with a theatre performance before, but I was also genuinely stunned by the visuals of it all. Based on Mark Haddon's best-selling novel of the same name, The Curious Incident is told from the point of view of 15-year-old Christopher, who has Asperger's Syndrome and is currently obsessing over the death of his neighbour's dog, Wellington. The novel itself was a fascinating read, written convincingly in the style of a character seemingly devoid of emotion or comprehension of anything beyond the literal. It is hilarious and heart-breaking all at the same time.

As the novel packed such a punch in communicating the ideas of such a complex character in a convincing yet complex manner, the stage version had a lot to live up to. But, arriving to the theatre to see a stage laid out in mathematical paper-style criss-crossed lines in black and white, I knew immediately that the playwrights had captured the essence of Christopher's psyche. The entire first half sees Christopher building a train track around the stage, literally showcasing his obsession with typically autistic subjects, and metaphorically mimicking and foreshadowing his journey beyond the realms of his usually constricted world. A clever decision that works on so many levels.

The set was inspired, but the physical theatre perfectly demonstrated Christopher's confusion and discomfort in public places. Notably for me was the scene where he describes Mrs Alexander as being "slower than he's ever known". While the frail old lady heads back into her house (symbolically shown through lights running through the parallel lines of the stage), other characters go about daily tasks. Menial, you might say. But the sped-up actions of the other characters - brushing their hair, picking up the phone, opening the microwave - made me question whether a special effects screen had come down. The action was so convincing that it was like watching a film.

And the choreography throughout was similarly spectacular. When Christopher arrives at Paddington, the frantic unified movements of the other characters seems as terrifying and overwhelming to us as it might do to an autistic child. By the end of the play, I found myself wanting to scream at anyone who reached out to touch Christopher, so convincing was the characterisation of the protagonist and his interactions with others.

Not only was the play, like the novel, incredible, but the research that went into characterising such a complex persona was fascinating too. BBC One recently aired a programme, Imagine, which followed the artistic process of adapting the novel for the stage, where we met many "autistic consultants". The theme of social disability has been sensitively handled throughout the entire process, culminating in not only a fantastic theatrical franchise, but also raised awareness of the difficulties that societal outsiders face daily.

Gielgud Theatre, 35 Shaftesbury Avenue, London W1D 6AR. Tel: [phone]

www.delfontmackintosh.co.uk

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Like experiences? You might like Emma Daniels' Papercutting Workshops at Baker & Barista, Ipswich

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Sapa, Vietnam 6th - 8th July 2015 What an incredible picture Sapa is. Recently voted home of some of the most stunning rice paddies in the world, Sapa's tourism trade is in its infancy, making it an even more enriching experience. We took advantage of this before tourism inevitably strips it of its modest charm and opted for a homestay with a family from the Black Monk tribe in Hoan Ten village. Home stays seem the best way to see Sapa - the centre right in the heart of the valley is a scene that can be found anywhere in a small provincial area catering to what the Vietnamese think tourists want, and so I was glad not to stay here. Instead, we met Mama Chu from the sleeper bus, having called ahead and negotiating two nights' keep and three days trekking for $35 each, and trekked four hours to her house up in the mountains. It is definitely a wise idea to bring a small bag with the essentials and leave your backpack at your hostel as the ascent is gruelling at times and I was grateful to only have my body weight and a small load on my back to carry. Obviously, trainers are a must too - much of the pathways haven't yet been converted to proper roads given the poor economic state of the area, but it makes those flat, even plains with the sprawling views even more incredible following a treacherous 30 minute uphill climb. I think Matt can safely say he has done his bit for pre-season rugby training, and I have undertaken the most exercise I probably ever have. Reaching Mama Chu's house was a real treat; despite secretly hoping for the comfort of a running shower and a bed stand, it felt like we were genuinely experiencing the lifestyle of the Black Monk people when we arrived at a modest wooden shack that Mama Chu's husband and son had built only months before. One room was dedicated entirely to keeping rice - farming their 300 sq.m rice paddy every morning serves to feed the family throughout the year. And that was another strange thing - those who know me are aware of my intolerance of mornings... Yet even getting up at 8am when the family rose with more energy than I could muster all day at 4.30am to plough the fields made me feel inferior. Mama Chu was the ideal mama - seriously good food conjured by her over the open fire that stood at the kitchen to the left of the main living area kept us going for hours. I don't think Matt will ever enjoy spring rolls as much as hers. Also, knowing our desire to see the untouched corners of Sapa, she took us on winding walks past the traveller hotspots to find a waterfall to swim in with only some daring village children as company. The locals around Mama Chu's village were equally welcoming - we found our spot on the rock overlooking the valley and were enthusiastically greeted with "hello! How are you?" by many women and children. Although the rest of her family didn't really speak our language, we felt that all were happy to have us there and allowed us to embrace their way of living wholeheartedly. We were grateful to be able to help, too; lots of families do homestays as a way of supporting their income and so determined selling of bracelets hammered by the men and handsewn waistbands and bandanas was inevitable. Mama Chu was upfront about her friends' excitement at us being there for the purpose of us buying their goods, but she told us that there was no pressure from her to buy (although when a woman with a young baby strapped to her back is asking you to "help" rather than simply buy, it's quite difficult to refuse). One way we were really able to help was with medicine, a luxury rarely afforded for those living such a simple lifestyle. Mama Chu's husband had suffered a bad gash down the length of his leg in a motorbike accident that resulted in a recent 16-day stay in hospital, yet he only had a plaster to barely cover the open wound. Twenty stitches and some salt water hadn't seemed to cut it. So, with my wound healing from embarrassing trip in Chiang Mai, we were able to hand over our kit of iodine, bandages and gauze to help it heal long term as a parting gift. It felt good to be able to help out genuinely; we had seen so many warnings about how giving money to begging children in Cambodia only worsens the situation by discouraging them to attend school, so this felt like true "giving back" in the ecotourism sense. Normally, I wouldn't think it wise to give out a personal number on the Internet, but Mama Chu encouraged us to spread the word as much as possible to help her to rack up more homestays. We first learnt about her in Phnom Penh from a fellow traveller's recommendation and were able to enthusiastically pass on her to two couples on our Halong Bay tour who will stay with her next week; any travellers wanting to see Sapa untouched in the comfort of a friendly family's home should give Mama Chu a call: [phone]. This post may sound slightly smug; I am so grateful to Mama Chu and her family for showing us the real Sapa and not treating us like ten-a-penny tourists in the fashion we had become accustomed to. This was a real, unforgettable experience that I will remember, along with the local people, fondly for years to come. Next: Halong Bay, Vietnam

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Chiang Mai, Thailand 27th June - 1st July 2015 Chiang Mai was supposed to be a convenient short stopover to connect us to Laos, but our time there ended up being so much more than that. We had been recommended to go by our friend Saf, who, when asked what there is to do, couldn't really think of anything... Hmm. He assured us that the vibe in Chiang Mai is what makes it, and, as we needed to head north anyway, we thought we'd give it a go. When we first arrived at 5am and were shipped like cattle, tired and disoriented, through the silent old city, my excitement radar wasn't exactly ringing off the hook. Then we arrived at our hostel, A Little Bird 2, which is a comfortable bolt hole but not celebrated for its atmosphere (stay inside the Old City walls which encase the magic of the markets and chilled out hostels). Ah well, we only had two nights to entertain ourselves, and we needed a break from exploring anyway. How wrong I was. Unlike Siem Reap, which immediately smacks you round the head with the buzz of a large city brimming with travellers and busy locals, Chiang Mai is a grower rather than a shower (excuse the tacky comparison, but this phrase seems to sum it up perfectly). Day after day, we booked yet another night at the hostel, putting off the inevitable end to the love affair. The first day, we hired motorbikes and drove up the mountain to Doi Suthep temple - a rather ambitious challenge given the pouring rain on the way down, but drivers are so considerate here, you can crawl at snail's pace and not worry about someone bringing up the rear. And the rain gave us the opportunity to stop at a rest break cafe for the local workers where the owners spoke no English so we humorously communicated through hand signals and badly-imitated Thai phrases (I learnt that rain was "pho" and Matt learnt that he'd been using the feminine version of thank you - he has since changed to khapkom khap). The temple was another temple and after Angkor Wat nothing really compares but the drive and the views over the city from the mountain top are breathtaking. We had the bikes for 24 hours so decided to get up early and visit the waterfalls the next morning. This was the perfect time to come as we only had one other Chinese family as company, and, although it wasn't deep enough to swim, we paddled through the rock pools and marvelled at the beautiful butterflies resting on the rocks. Chiang Mai is easy to find other like-minded travellers too: there's a real "anything goes" hippy vibe here. So we gathered our group and headed to the Sunday Walking Market to graze from stall to stall for a few hours - a definite recommendation to try different traditional foods at dirt cheap prices. And the cooking classes (we did Baan Thai meaning "Thai home") and elephant sanctuary visits on offer makes this place unforgettable too. I challenge anyone to visit Chiang Mai for a day and not want to stay for at least a week... This place is full of surprises!

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In focus: Jaan Bai, Battambang, Cambodia I first read about this top quality restaurant sponsored by the Cambodian Children's Trust when researching my trip through The Guardian's travel section, and immediately wanted to go. I was reassured by Fraser, the friendly barman at Here Be Dragons, that CCT is one of the most reputable Khmer charities and all the money goes straight to the staff, most of whom have faced a tough start in life living on the streets but now have the skills and training to deliver excellent service. I was also warned that Jaan Bai's prices are a bit higher than the average traveller's budget would stretch too - reassuring, given the ecotourism angle I was aiming for - but I was pleasantly surprised. The most expensive thing on the menu was Kampot pepper crab at $12, which I naturally veered towards until learning its popularity had taken it off the menu for the evening. Damn. Matt and I opted to share two small plates and a large one, which led to us experiencing the very best calamari we've ever tasted. Perfectly soft squid coated in perfectly crunchy batter, I was slightly disappointed in myself for opting for such a common and non-native dish, but mouthful after mouthful delivered Cambodian spice and an incredible Khmer salt and pepper twist. The dipping sauce - slightly spicy soy sauce with ginger I think - added to the enduring deliciousness of the dish which I was genuinely sad to finish. Secondly, we had pork belly bao, a popular Asian rice bread that is tasty but sticks in your mouth for hours after: we spent the journey to Bangkok trying to unstick our jaws after eating a poor quality one from a gas station... But Jaan Bai had cracked it, the pork belly was tantalisingly tender and the bao dipped in sweet chilli sauce complimented the meat well. Last, we shared sticky chicken legs soaked in palm sugar and ginger served with morning glory (a naively-chosen Asian name for stewed green beans). The chicken fell off the bone and the skin was just sweet enough thanks to the palm sugar. Absolutely delicious. The art on the walls adds to the ambience too. I later discovered that the Dios los Muertes-inspired skulls were created by a local artist called Pearun, who was studying at Battambang's Phare Ponleu Selpak, a school which trains disadvantaged young people in various art forms, from animation to circus performance. Naturally, I bought a couple of Pearun's cards to keep as a reminder of the place. I think what Jaan Bai does well -and is apparent based on the dishes we chose - is simplicity in commonly-consumed world foods with a Khmer edge. This results in a genuinely enjoyable dinner that can be enjoyed comfortably by knowing exactly what you're getting - no watery amoks here - while being reassured that you're tasting dishes specially designed and crafted by talented local chefs. Jaan Bai, Street 2, Battambang, Cambodia www.cambodiachildrenstrust.org

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Siem Reap, Cambodia 20th - 23rd June 2015 I LOVED Siem Reap from the moment we began cruising alongside the river after a six-hour bus journey ($11 from Phnom Penh). The place clearly has far more money that Phnom Penh and is certainly geared up for tourists, but tries to offer luxury Cambodian rather than pure Western. Perhaps its retention of tradition over commercialism is rooted in the people's profound pride of their cultural heritage and most famous landmarks: the Temples of Angkor. We hired e-scooters to get around rather than opting for the €15 day trip as we wanted to explore the temples on our own terms, and I'm glad we did this. We headed straight to Angkor Wat first - a nono; if you want to appreciate the others, see the main event last - because we were told that the sunset was best there. After clambering over ancient ruins and taking in every view we could angle ourselves for, we took a seat amongst the congregation that had formed by the lake that sits to the front left of Angkor Wat as you look at it. Despite getting hassled by numerous children for "one dollllllarrr" postcards (mainly because we bought some straight away, hence we were seen as an easy target), it was a peaceful spot. We waited for the sun to fall behind us and to be presented with an awe-inspiring red and pink reflection of the temple in the lily pond... Unfortunately we were disappointed. The guard began chucking us out before the sun had set, so how you can watch it in the summer, I have no idea! And, because of the clouds that have been plaguing us, the sunset only served to make it more gloomy rather than reflecting brilliance across the lake. I saw some fantastic photos taken by a fellow traveller who had gone the day before so luck can prevail sometimes.  It was the same situation for sunrise - underwhelming - however, nothing can beat sitting on ancient ruins atop a huge hill overlooking Angkor at Phnom Bakheng (which took 15 minutes to race up in time) while the animals croak and wheeze and buzz to life in the dimmed forest. Again, the sun hardly peeked out of the clouds in the morning so we didn't get the stunning colours expected. Yet I don't regret getting up at 4am to zip past monkeys and see the forest in a completely different light. If you go to Siem Reap, a sunrise visit to Angkor is an absolute must, regardless of the weather.  Pub Street and the Night Markets are essential too; the excitement that blankets the city here after 8pm is unbeatable. I never realised bartering could be so fun: the best trick is to say your price and, if you don't get it, walk away. Either, they will shout your price in agreement after you, or you can go to another stall selling the exact same thing with a better idea of how low you can go. Sitting outside Angkor What? Bar was a treat: a Cambodian street seller, no older than 14 and deserving of being in a Missy Elliot video, began a dance off with a tourist which quickly amassed to a 50-strong circle of wannabe dancers attempting to top her sharp rhythm (none managed to).  Le Tigre de Papier, which runs Khmer cooking classes and supports the country's street children, is another treat for dinner in a perfect spot to people watch. I had Cambodian barbecue crocodile - white meat, like a very meaty fish - and Matt had ostrich - akin to venison. It was expensive but worth it for the unusual dishes. We tried Haven, a restaurant with a similar ecotourism conscience, but it was fully booked, so make sure you call ahead there. The Hive and Joe To Go are perfect if you need to boost your energy levels - The Hive offers delicious detox juices - and a fix of home food. Funky surroundings - particularly at Joe To Go, which features local art on the walls - reflect the fresh, modern food on offer. The Hive's chicken mango salad and Joe To Go's glass noodle tofu salad were the perfect immune-boosting brunch without having to risk new eats. Next: Siem Reap to Battambang

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Phnom Penh, Cambodia 18th - 20th June 2015 Happy-go-lucky river rides to harrowing history

Cu Chi tunnels were a fascinating insight into the cunning ways the Vietnamese thwarted the Americans, regularly referred to as "big belly" by our tour guide. The Viet Cong's comparatively minuscule size came in handy when building the tunnels as it certainly kept the enemy out. Matt crawled into an entrance but couldn't get his shoulders through... We were then told that this was a model entrance that was BIGGER than the real ones. We crawled in a line through a 40m tunnel that again was bigger than original but still tiny, pitch black and extremely claustrophobic. I'd definitely recommend a tour around here as it provides insight into internationally little-known history of the Vietnam War. Tip: Expect to pay around 210.000 Dong (1.100 Dong entry plus 1.5 hour minivan there) That evebing, after plenty of head scratching and indecision (becoming a theme) we took the overnight bus to Chau Doc from Ho Chi Minh to get the boat to Cambodia. The bus station was in the middle of nowhere and the smallest minivan with no air-con pulled up… For us to sleep in overnight. Half an hour later, we get transferred to an actual sleeper bus - devastation to elation - only to realise we were sleeping on a shared platform at the back with a Vietnamese family off our with a grisly baby. Never have my emotions been toyed with so much.

Arriving at Chau Doc at 4am with no idea of where you are and where to go let alone having the capacity to talk due to lack of sleep is a dangerous game. We waited it out and finally batted off the moped taxis who thought it was a good idea to take us, two backpacks each, into the town. We opted for a car, naturally. The hotel that supposedly ran the Vietnam-Cambodia boat sent us on a wild goose chase into town to find Hang Dau, a ticket company which I am now finding it hard to believe exists.

TIP: Sort out tickets for the boat before you arrive if you can, or don’t arrive in Chau Doc at a stupid hour and waste time when you’re there… Hang Dau, it turns out, was closed due to low season.

Naturally, we were harassed again by a moped and a tuk tuk claiming they knew where we could get tickets and, naturally, I was suspicious. But our options were minimal so Matt took the moped and I crawled into the open tuk tuk, holding onto our bags for dear life. The seat was more like the end of a shovel size and shape - you can imagine my discomfort. As Matt sped off into the sunrise, I was convinced that this was it; we were being separated to be mugged. Ten terrifying minutes later, we arrive at Delta Adventure, who it turns out the driver worked for (if only he’d said that) and who gave us the longed for TLC that we needed - coffee, an English conversation and, most of all, security.

We opted to take the tour around the local fishing villages and visit the Cham people, a Muslim ethnic minority group who are slowly rebuilding their livelihoods after the Vietnam War destroyed them. See the cute picture above of three Cham girls who turned out to be pretty feisty - one snatched my bottle of water and hit her friend clean in the face, but it seems that this was nothing based on the giggling, vicious scrum that ensued.

We went up the river then in the boat, which was pretty incredible to witness as so many locals ran to wave at us and we saw lots of buffalo being taken like pet dogs to have a bath in the water.

Overall, Delta Adventures was good but there were a few schemes, some of which I think are common practice and instigated by border control too. We were told that we would pay $1 for our photo for the visa application, but that turned into 100.000 Dong each (about $2.50). When I questioned this, the guide agreed to 50.000 Dong each… But no photo was ever taken. I think this acted as a bribe at the border to let us through without a photo. Also, a Canadian couple we were with queried the price of the visa ($35) as they’d read that it was $20. The government put the price up in 2014 to $30 and the extra five was commission for the guide sorting the documents for us. Good for us, as clearly we needed someone to bribe our way in without photos, but the Canadians said that doing it themselves was no hassle whatsoever (apart from pissing of the guide). Then they charged us a dollar each for drop offs at hostels when they'd told the Canadian couple (already not happy) that these were free... We gave up and paid just to be done with it. Staying in Nomads hostel which is basic but really chilled and friendly. Because it's small you form a bond quickly with people staying here too and we all went to Choeung Ek Killing Fields and Tuol Sleng/S-21 prison together today. Tip: this is where helpful hostels come in handy - Robert the owner called us a tuk tuk which arrived in 5 minutes and the fare for the whole journey there and back was $15 split between up to four people. Not bad for an hour-round trip. These two places were fascinating and horrific and one of the only 11 survivors of S-21, Chum Mey, was there selling his book. I felt quite humble exchanging a head bow with him having spent the day learning about the horrors he must have witnessed. These places are a must-see; if you have limited time, I feel the Killing Fields gave a better overview of what happened in a respectful yet brutally truthful way. Tomorrow: Siem Reap, Cambodia

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Ho Chi Minh Vietnam We kicked off with our first Pho Bo, a traditional beef noodle soup (first picture), which was scrummy but not as exciting as the hype would have you believe. I guess you've got to try the obvious cultural buzz dishes. This was on Ben Thanh market, and we were shocked at how little it cost - two dishes and two beers for £4 - even though we were expecting low prices. What I didn't expect was to be interrogated by a seriously talented saleswoman when I peeked at a Michael Kors (ahem) bag. Initially, she wanted 2.200.000 but quickly dropped the price lower and lower to 800.000 simply because I kept saying "we'll be back". Turns out refusal is seen as a teasing tool for bartering here. I bought the bag. I still think I'll look back at the end and think I'm a mug for paying too much. Next day, we started at Trung Nguyen, which our taxi driver recommended as one of the best coffee places in the city. I opted for a green tea ice cream, which has now adopted a place as my new favourite drink. Matt's experience wasn't so smooth running. Thinking he is a coffee connoisseur, he went for the "creative coffee 2". Still as mysterious as it sounds. An ornamental percolator arrived sat atop a glass collecting the tar-like distillations. We asked how to drink it after Matt nearly spat out his first sip (this followed a supposedly refreshing aperitif, whose taste can only be likened to what you would expect if you drank out of a rain-filled ashtray). The friendly waiter laughed with us and Matt thought his coffee experience was about to be demystified when the advice came: "no, no, you add sugar". Determined not to give in to this heart attack in cup, and added an innumerate amount of sugars along with diabetes to the mix. Nope, still the oddest coffee experience ever. I sipped my refreshing smoothie smugly as Matt pulled the face I captured perfectly. We headed through Tao Dan park, admiring the beautiful pagodas and the biggest butterfly we've ever seen. Several passers by, not even just children, pointed and stared - I'm assuming (hoping) it was Matt's red hair. We visited Independence Palace and the War Remnants museum, both must sees in the city. Don't go on a down day as learning about the Vietnamese war and all the associated atrocities was never going to brighten the spirits, but a hell of a lot can be learned from it - historically and morally. Opposite the Independence Palace, we stopped for lunch at the Beer Market on Nam Ky Khoi Ngia - the bubbling tanks filled with exotic seafood against a backdrop of (hopefully manmade) elephant tusks drew us in. What struck me was how the good was prepared: this place is certainly one restaurant but in every corner there seemed to be a chef with their own caddy preparing a certain part of the menu, even down to the sauces. It was seriously delicious food and the height of Vietnamese traditional eats. Great if you've just arrived, but to be avoided if you've already eaten enough rice to put the Sapa paddies out of business. Tomorrow: Cu Chi tunnels and travel to Chau Doc, Vietnam.

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"The world is a book, and those who do not travel only read a page"... "You'll only regret the things you don't do..." A plethora of quotes appealing to those who have stayed in the safe harbour of home have landed me and my brother in Southeast Asia, the furthest each of us have ever been away from home. Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos in six weeks on a budget of around £1,500 each is the challenge we have accepted.

We arrive in Ho Chi Minh city, an assault on all the senses - lights, freshly cooked food from all over hit me all at once. It's not the only thing that threatens to flatten me - my potential end in the form of a family of four on a scooter surrounded by thousands of others came out of nowhere. I have since realised that there seems to be a force field around pedestrians and generally the Vietnamese are quite adept at swerving, although I've been told that walking slow is the way to go so that two-wheeled assassins can judge where to pass you - my method of running and praying is akin to running through a herd of raptors and trying not to get caught. "No sudden movements," Lonely Planet says. Sums up the Vietnamese way of life really - chill out and trust each other. It's a good mantra that hasn't sent us wrong yet.

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2015 Gander// Hitlist

Ten places on my 2015 hitlist

Here, there and everywhere!

The Pig

The Pig has been on my list for a while: cosy rooms with claw foot baths, quiet countryside locations, fabulous food… I’m sold.

There are four different hotels in The Pig family: the original Pig, which is situated in the depths of the New Forest and where my godfather enjoyed crispy pig’s head, something I won’t be joining him with; The Pig near Bath (just outside Bath, actually, in the Mendip Hills, and my preference, given my love of spas and need to visit this city);Southampton’s The Pig in the Wall, set within – you guessed it – the historic city walls of Southampton, adding to that medieval feel; and the newest Pig on the Beach in Studland Bay, Dorset.

The Pig describes itself (all four hotels) as a “restaurant with rooms”, and this take on things, rather than the other way round, is something I look for in a hotel – just like the Lazy Toad, the focus is on high quality, locally sourced and grown or foraged food, and the beautiful boutique bedrooms to climb back to after feasting are just an added bonus. Eating, sleeping, enjoying the décor: that’s what hospitality should be all about.

The Fox and Goose, Fressingfield

The Pig and Duck? The Dog and Bone? Nope, the Fox and Goose is the quintessentially English pub name you need to scorch into your memory.

Situated in the dreamy village of Fressingfield in already sleepy Suffolk, the Fox and Goose seems to have it all: good pub grub, low beams and blazing fires to warm your cockles on after a long country walk, through to an eight-course tasting menu for the more refined palette looking for something extra special.

The only problem (apart from forgetting the name) is that I never seem to know what to expect from this place. I’ve heard so many different tag lines to describe it – traditional pub, posh restaurant, cosy hideaway – that, although I have no idea how to dress, the excitement at finally visiting this mysterious pub is ever-mounting.

To the Gorilla and Chimp! Wait, I’ve gone wrong again…

Tuddenham Mill, Tuddenham

Just look at those rooms! Reminds me of an upmarket version of Creeksea Barns (not that these weren’t immaculate, but had perhaps a more leisurely feel to them) – all you could ask for in a home away from home, if only for one night. I think that’s as far as the purse strings would stretch anyway.

The tasting menu looks rather incredible too, and the relatively new head chef Lee Bye seems to have stepped up to the plate following in the well-known Paul Foster’s footsteps. Lee says he “works strongly within the seasons” when inventing new dishes for his menu, a no-brainer that so many places seem to get wrong.

When I visit the Tuddenham Mill, I know I’ll get winter warmers in winter and summer salads in summer. Simple, no nonsense, just good taste.

Chiltern Firehouse (a long shot!)

So this is just a dreamy one. I’m sure I could book a table four years in advance and pay over the odds but I’d still get turned down on the basis that the manager’s father doesn’t know my father and I’ve never been papped in Marie Claire with my arm round a famous tennis player. But hey, a girl can dream.

A friend managed to blag a table there late last year as a family friend’s son (yes, you must use all the tenuous contacts you can to desperately claw your way in. Pride does not come into this) waits on tables there (oh, the stories he must have!). Apparently the bill came to £500 for four people, and they didn’t have a sizeable meal, but among the celebrities spotted were Janet Street-Porter (surely she was heard first) and Wentworth Miller of Prison Break fame. I’m sure CF must have been horrified at its lack of celebrity status that day, as it seems that every day you read about some celebrity scandal or new relationship blossoming at the bar. And the owner, Andre Balazs, has already snapped up Kylie Minogue as his trophy girlfriend, although I’m not sure who’s done better for themselves.

Want to wangle your way in? Read this hilarious how-to from the Standard’s Nimrod Kamer. Why can I hear Mean Girls’ Regina George screaming “YOU CAN’T SIT WITH US!”?

Jaan Bai, Battambang, Cambodia

So my most exciting adventure for 2015 (the rest of you, you’ve got a lot to live up to) is finally donning that backpack and hippying my way around southeast Asia – Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and Burma to be precise. Something I thought I’d do in my “gap yah” but I never got round to that so six weeks will do just fine. (For those of you screaming “how will you have enough time?!” the original plan was Cambodia and Vietnam, the other two are “even better if”s.)

I first read about Jaan Bai when researching my trip in the Guardian. A social enterprise that gives the disadvantaged youth opportunities in hospitality that they may not have otherwise had, Jaan Bai is all about giving back to the community, with all profits going to the Cambodian Children’s Trust, a charity that devotes itself to providing widespread education and training for young adults.

Not only that, but it boasts David Thompson, arguably Asia’s best chef, who trains the employees and designs the menu based on the best of the local cuisine and produce.

Delicious food and a warm fuzzy feeling from helping to fund kids’ futures – what’s not to like?

Did you know? Jaan Bai is Khmer for “rice bowl”, how apt!

Ipswich Maritime Festival

Not a particularly exclusive event, but I have never been to one. I’ve lived in Ipswich all my life (apart from five years studying and working in London), written about all there is on offer in this beautiful county, and yet I’ve never been to the county town’s festival. Shame on me.

I imagine it’s a ridiculously busy day, and I would definitely be the one to fall into the quayside through a lack of crowd navigation skills. But the vibrancy and talent displayed on the markets, showcasing exactly what makes Suffolk so great, from one-off arts and crafts to home brewed beers, makes it worth battling through for.

The entertainment at these types of events in our county town never disappoints either – just look at the snap above showing IP Art’s Music of the Spheres art project on the quayside.

The Crucible, New Wolsey Theatre, Ipswich

The New Wolsey Young Company is bringing Arthur Miller’s iconic tale of hysteria and sorcery to life at Ipswich’s most progressive theatre. Running between Thursday 16th April and Saturday 25th April, the play set in 1642 following the terror of the Salem Witch Trials is guaranteed to scare even the steeliest observer. While I’ve performed the play, I’ve never had the joy of sitting back and watching others take it on, and this is my opportunity.

The New Wolsey Young company is a theatre group for 16 to 22 year-olds performing original and classic plays from all eras. From the liveliness and passion shown in the photos on their Facebook page, I’m looking forward to watching them do Miller’s play justice.

Elephant Valley Project, Mondulkiri, Cambodia

When I mentioned to my brother (my travelling partner) about seeing elephants in Cambodia, he quickly warned me of the ill-treatment that some animals are put through for the entertainment of tourists, knowing that this was something I am particularly sensitive to. Of course, I know this sadly happens all over, but I thought that somehow it would be obvious whether the animals were looked after or not, from the way they looked, their temperaments and reviews from other travellers. Not so.

However, when I found the Elephant Valley Project, in Mondulkiri Province near the Vietnamese border, I felt I could rest assured that I wasn’t lining the pockets of some exploitative circus trainer. The sanctuary rehomes mistreated elephants and nurses them back to health. The nine elephants they have are described as “retired” from work so tourists can watch them at their majestic best.

While they live in natural habitats, they are protected by the project, keeping them safe from poachers too, one of the greatest threats to their species. I think I’ll rest easy after visiting this sanctuary.

Hoi An, Vietnam

Recently voted the best city on earth by Wanderlust, Hoi An was once home to Vietnam’s major port, and retains its seaside feel, a bit like an Asian Riviera I imagine!

I’m looking forward to stepping back to a time when life was much simpler, where pollution and traffic are non-existent and great architecture and rich historic roots prevail. It’s said that if you want a complete whistle-stop tour of Vietnam and all it stands for, then Hoi An is the place. A cultural experience that I’ll definitely be immersing myself into.

Treetop Ecolodge, Ratanakiri near Ban Lung, Cambodia

Just as I’m looking for the ultimate Vietnamese urban cultural experience in Hoi An, I’m hoping that the Treetop Ecolodge will prove a perfect resting place to discover all things Cambodian. Set high up in the trees (as the name suggests), these wooden bungalows boast amazing views over the forest, and will hopefully provide the respite I’m looking for.

While the food and accommodation sound anything but luxury, taking it back to basics seems just the thing at this place. The lodge organises tours of the local area, but I’m going to opt for bike hire (or motorbikes if I’m feeling brave!) to explore as and how I want.

Let’s just hope I don’t get lost in the forest and adopted by a herd of elephants…

Is there a place that should be on my hitlist but isn’t? Anywhere I MUST visit when travelling in Southeast Asia - suggestions very welcome! - ? Please tell me in the comments below!

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Local Gander// Theatre

Teechers

Theatre Royal, Bury St Edmund's

I opted for a bit of culture at the weekend in the form of the theatre… More light-hearted really, as it was John Godber’s Teechers performed by the legendary Blackeyed Theatre. I’ve seen his similarly hilarious Bouncers and Shakers in various forms, but Teechers was still one to cross off the list, so I jumped at the chance when it came to Bury’s Theatre Royal.

The play, and its subsidiaries, follow an unusual programme whereby three actors play all the characters within it – confusing, you might think. However, the changes flowed with sparkling clarity as the brute-like Mr Basford seamlessly transformed into the petrifying Mrs Parry, performed by Brad Clapson with unparalleled comic genius. The three actors’ chemistry with each other was fantastic, and helped to create such hilarious scenes as Mr Nixon’s close encounter with Oggy and Gail’s attempt at clinching the deal with her favourite teacher.

Blackeyed Theatre handled the play with due sensitivity, however, as John Godber’s script requires. The synopsis mentions Teechers’ exploration of the “haves” and “have nots” through the constant comparisons with nearby St George’s, and the poignancy of the message was not forgotten by the audience. This is what I love about Godber’s work, and the work of those who do it well, which Blackeyed Theatre certainly did: it packs a punch in terms of comedy, but it doesn’t forget to deliver that all important take-home lesson through believable characters and intelligent quips laced through an original storyline.

Theatre Royal, Westgate Street, Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, IP33 1QR. Tel: [phone]

www.theatreroyal.org

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Like experiences? You might like Emma Daniels' Papercutting Workshops at Baker & Barista, Ipswich

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Local Gander// Views of Suffolk

Top Ten Best Views of The County

Suffolk

Stormy Aldeburgh

Honestly, Aldeburgh is even better when it's raining. I visited with trepidation recently after the heavens had opened and looked set on pouring all day - where would I eat my ice cream? How would I queue for fish and chips? Grab your take out, park the car up on the beach opposite the Scallop statue, and watch the waves crash in. Follow this by a stop at The IceCreamery and a warming coffee at The Brudenell for a safe viewing platform of the tempestuous sea - very dramatic!

Woolverstone Marina sunset

A seriously beautiful experience. Sitting in the window of the marina's Buttermans restaurant, I managed to get these shots of the sun falling behind the yachts moored up on the dock. The river Orwell really does give us some stunning views.

Tuddenham fields in spring

As I've mentioned before, the walks around Tuddenham, particulary surrounding The Fountain, are incredible. Even better is a bike ride, as this way you can get as lost as you like and stumble across randomly placed herds of sheep and their adorable lambs in spring!

Sunshine on Ipswich Waterfront

Photo (right) courtesy of Andy Rogers (cobaltfish) on Flickr

Perhaps the most obvious of the ten, but Ipswich Waterfront has come a long way since the 90s and it's great to see that the town still celebrates this every time the sun peeks out from behind a cloud - and when it's raining, and when there's football on, night or day, winter or summer...

The river at Dedham

Photos courtesy of Karen Roe on Flickr

Dedham is a true delight in the area, even if we do like to wrongly claim our stake in it as an Essex village! Dedham itself is a brilliant place with plenty to while away an afternoon, including the Arts and Craft Centre and The Sun Inn pub. But the best of Dedham is the walk around the river and the rowing boats that wait to take you to Flatford across the water.

Snow at Christchurch Park

Photos courtesy of Alan B Thompson on Flickr

The ultimate gathering place for a Suffolk snow day. Hippy Hill in the centre of the park provides a seemingly endless slope for sledging and the thick carpets of snow that gather at the bottom make it the best place for snowball fights and a token snowman (or snow tummy if it's just a flurry).

Felixstowe-Bawdsey ferry

Not only does this place have beautiful views out to the Martello Towers and across to Bawdsey's shingle beach, but the decking is a great place for crabbing (although this is best kept under wraps as it's not big enough to cater the crowds at Walberswick!) Just make sure you get out of the way of the quaint little 'ferry' - read: glamourised rowing boat - and make a stop at The Ferry Boat Inn.

Mist at Waldringfield

Photos courtesy of DaveJC90 on Flickr

You'll never be short of scenes to watch at Waldringfield, with the sail boats paddling by and the occasional Chinook flying over to land at the base. But all this becomes much more dramatic when the mist rolls over the river, especially at sun down.

Thorpeness' rowing lake

Photos courtesy of Karen Roe on Flickr

Another clear winner in the best of Suffolk, but Thorpeness just gets better each time you visit, especially with regards to rowing. It's too big (and too expensive) to explore the entire lake in one go, so it's best to make regular trips to Thorpeness to discover more and more amongst the reeds each time.

...Secret point at Grundisburgh village

My all-time favourite spot in Suffolk. It's non-descript, far away from anything else, quiet and unremarkable, but that's exactly why I like it. It's the place I visit for some alone time to drink in the Suffolk air and watch the skies change. This all sounds slightly romantic, but for me, discovering your own secret little corners is what living in Suffolk is all about. My challenge to you is to find this place using the pictures!

Do you have a favourite view of Suffolk that hasn't been mentioned here? Do you also have a secret spot that should be shared? Let us know in the comments below!

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Local Gander// Pop-Up Shop

The IceCreamery

Aldeburgh

While making the most of not-so-sunny Suffolk day, a friend and I visited Aldeburgh for a nose around the galleries and coffee shops (and of course for our essential fish and chip fix). But we had timed it just right: The IceCreamery had opened on Bank Holiday Monday, so we had to see what the fuss was about.

It turns out that our opting for a Tuesday visit worked in our favour as the previous day had seen queues winding along Aldeburgh's main street, full of sweet-toothed tourists wanting to try The IceCreamery's novel take on serving ice cream.

Guests choose from the vast selection of locally sourced ice creams on offer, with the option of having their scoops in a cone or tub. Simple and ordinary enough. But, with the helpful recommendations from staff, customers can create their very own unique flavour of ice cream by mixing it with the sweets on offer - a selection to rival Willy Wonka's. After perhaps an annoying amount of umming and ahhing, I was guided towards trying mocha ice cream crushed with Oreos (see the picture below of it being mixed on order for us), which exceeded expectations - perhaps I should get on to Ben & Jerry's to add "Coffeo" to its range. My friend went for mocha and Daim bar (we were both sold on this flavour as soon as we were given a token spoonful to try), which was nearly as good, but I was pleased I'd gone for mine!

What really struck me about this place is that it is a pop-up shop, one that should only stay for the summer. This is a concept that has usually remained with forward-thinking Londoners, but it seems Suffolk is catching on to the trends too. Knowing this made us all the more grateful for finding it so soon - we'll be making the most of The IceCreamery over the sunnier months.

A short conversation with the friendly owner revealed that this set-up was not just for fashion purposes, but for convenience too - amazingly, she is juggling being a businesswoman with being a university student too. But, as we mentioned during our visit, if The IceCreamery is as popular as it was on a May Bank Holiday, and again on a typically rainy Tuesday, perhaps a winter run may be irresistible. I for one will definitely come back throughout the year - yum!

The IceCreamery, 182 High Street, Aldeburgh, IP15 5AU. Tel: [phone]

Check out The IceCreamery's Facebook page here.

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Like this? You might like The White Lion, Aldeburgh and The Pier, Southwold

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Local Gander// Workshop

Papercutting with Emma Daniels

Baker & Barista, Ipswich

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I was lucky enough to claim one of the last places on Emma Daniels' latest papercutting workshop thanks to a last minute cancellation, something I'd wanted to try after being given a Paper Panda beginners' kit for for Christmas. And for just £20 for all the materials, Emma's helpful advice and homemade cake and coffee from the Baker & Barista girls, this was a really fun and frivolous way to spend a Thursday evening.

Surprisingly, I didn't bring down the median age too much at the age of 24; it was lovely to see women of all ages getting involved in this up-and-coming artistic style. And there's so much talent - take a look at the picture below of all our designs together, which make a great impact I think.

Emma started us on worksheets that she'd kindly prepared for us beforehand, to get us used to the blades (although I did manage to cut myself, just one) and how to connect different aspects of the papercut so areas don't run loose. I was slightly apprehensive when I realised quite how inferior my skills were to my illustrator friend, who apparently had also never tried papercutting on a big scale before. But the practice helped to get us all up to a similar standard, and there were certainly no duff papercuts at the end!

The variety of designs was brilliant - I designed a forest scene, while others chose the Eiffel Tower, flowers, elves, cupcakes and even biscuits. As Emma pointed out, these workshops are the perfect place to create something special for a wedding gift or an usual greetings card.

I'll definitely be along to the next one (unfortunately June's workshop is already fully booked), but, now I'm more familiar with the skill, I'll be designing my template beforehand to create in the company of fellow papercutters, with Emma on hand for advice. Not only are these workshops a perfect outlet for creativity and passion, but they're a great chance to meet new people and try out something new for entertainment on a weekday evening.

TIP: Practice, practice, practice (and patience) makes perfect. Make sure you try out Emma's worksheets before designing to get used to connecting negative and positive images. And I've found that the size of your elements should be inversely proportionate to your skill and familiarity with papercutting - tiny flower elements and miniature hearts are pretty ambitious shapes for beginners! This is where patience comes in: never try to tear away the waste paper before having a clean cut, or you'll tear your design. Never a good outcome when you've spent hours designing and cutting...

Visit Emma Daniels' Facebook page here or follow her on Twitter or Instagram to see her beautiful work and find out about upcoming workshops and exhibitions.

Emma's upcoming summer workshops at Baker & Barista are on 19th June (fully booked), 17th July and 28th August.

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  The last image ("When I look at the stars...") is Emma's work and not mine - I wish!

Like this? You might like Baker & Barista, Ipswich and Carley's Yard, Framlingham

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Local Gander// Country Pub

The Fountain

Tuddenham St Martin

The Tuddenham Fountain has all the makings of a perfect country pub: a quaint rural location with a suncatching garden, a beautiful beamed interior with calming cream walls and, best of all, food to make those long country walks down to the pub worth making the effort for.

At the forefront of The Fountain's ethos is "a good pub with good food" and it certainly delivers on this. The relaxed atmosphere welcomes customers as they head to the traditional bar, which serves the best of Suffolk's local beers including Adnam's Southwold Bitter and Aspall's cider (a personal favourite). It's all about East Anglia here: Blythburgh pork and Mersea mussels are regulars on the menu and specials board.

One of the things that makes The Fountain stand out for me is its accessibility for all appetites and budgets. The starters are also offered as larger dishes with complimentary side dishes (which is good for me as I often fancy what's on the appetisers over the mains!); this also adds greater variety to the range of main courses, along with what's featured on the ever-changing specials board.  A particularly genius addition to the menu is the offer of miniature desserts with coffee - good for those who want a sweet ending to their meal without overindulging.

But those have committed to going whole hog upon arrival can take advantage of the three-course set menu for a reasonable £17.95. There's no obvious choice between lunch and dinner here: both mealtimes are catered for perfectly.

The Fountain does what Britain, and in particular Suffolk, does best: great pubs that unite all generations and tastes while offering a great location surrounded by some of the best walks on Ipswich's green belt.

TIP: For those wanting to walk back to Ipswich from The Fountain, turn left as you come out of the car park and head through the field of sheep (the farmer is fine with this!), following the stream until you come to a wooden stile and bridge to cross the water. Keep heading up the hill from here (the incline isn't too steep) until the railway line appears at your right. Follow this to the bridge and, turning left, you should climb another slope before you reach the back of the Ipswich Rugby Football Club on the right. A perfect way to work off your lunch!

The Fountain, The Street, Tuddenham, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP6 9BT. Tel:[phone]

http://www.tuddenhamfountain.co.uk/

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Like this? You might like The Old Stores, Tuddenham and The Ivy House, Stradbroke

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Local Gander// Farm Shop

Lux Farm

Rushmere St Andrew

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I only recently visited Lux Farm for the first time and discovered a place that epitomises all that is great about Suffolk's reputation for considerate, sustainable agriculture.

It is the perfect place to buy fresh free range meat and support many local brands such as Stokes sauces, Aspall's slowly matured vinegars and Wilkin's iconic Tiptree jams and preserves. Not only does Lux Farm sell some of the tastiest meat around, but this is accompanied by homemade pies and a particularly smooth chicken liver pate. I made the right choice in having this for lunch in the small café next door with hot buttery toast and apple and elderflower cordial.

The outside area was occupied by older couples and kiddies alike watching the animals roam in the fields. We had been told of new lambs in an adjoining field, although unfortunately I think the ewe had had enough of being gawped at for the day so we had no such luck in seeing them.

I do think that this could be a missed opportunity for Lux Farm, whose surroundings are so wondrous that it could attract so many visitors not just looking to buy meat: perhaps making more of the animals and adding a clothes shop or gifts barn would enhance its already brilliant offerings. However, as farms are proving so popular at the moment as the trend for loving all things outdoors rides on, land owners must be feeling slightly protective and wary of destroying the peace that makes a farm a farm!

As far as natural, uncontrived snapshots of agricultural living go, Lux Farm is a treat to see. Butchers and farm shops tend to make me slightly nervous, but racing past sprawling fields filled with the content herd of Belted Galloway cattle and springing Balwen lambs provides reassurance that the counter is laden with the meat of animals that had happy lives in such beautiful surroundings. The joy of Lux Farm is that it takes the chore out of meat and grocery shopping while being perfectly accessible just on the outskirts of Ipswich.

Lux Farm, Playford Road, Rushmere St Andrew, Ipswich IP5 1DA. Tel: [phone]

www.luxfarm.co.uk

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Like this? You might like Suffolk Food Hall, Wherstead

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Local Gander// Restaurant

The Table

Woodbridge

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This less well-known gem of Woodbridge is tucked away at the far end of the town centre, but those stumble upon it can understand why it seems almost as though the owners want to keep it so concealed: as soon as the secret's out, madness could ensue from the crowds that would certainly flock to The Table.

Those in the know are the lucky ones, as this quaint cafe-style restaurant offers such a wide range of food for all appetites, all of course sourced locally as far as possible. Every lunch and dinner guest is catered to at The Table, from those who want a larger main course to last the day to those wanting to pick up a treat from the counter, and those who opt for "starters and brunch". Usually, starters are just that: a prelude to the exciting main dish that entices guests into overindulging money- and calorie-wise. But The Table understands its market, where weary shoppers looking for a quick pick-me-up can come to enjoy a substantial and exciting lunch without experiencing the inevitable lethargy that a heavy main provokes.

I was particularly lucky with my (rather late) brunch, a black pudding croquette topped with crispy bacon and a poached egg on a layer of split pea puree. It's always a good sign when the egg practically explodes as you tap it, and the combination of flavours along with the presentation (see below) was mind-blowing. This simple yet effective twist on a traditional English breakfast made it the perfect dish for a 1pm light lunch.

I'm told that the crayfish Caesar salad was equally refreshing, and the rest of the menu (which includes a full blackboard of specials on top of the deli counter, brunch and main options) looked just as enticing. This style of eating - relaxed, unpressured, enjoyable - flows the whole way through The Table's ethos, as was evident when the waiter didn't bat an eyelid at being informed that only one of a party next to us was actually eating.

The Table is all about celebrating the joy of eating, drinking and conversation across all generations. With summer just around the corner, and the wonderfully light rooms and expansive pebbled garden, enjoying a coffee, main or deli-style snack at The Table looks set to be on the cards for many weekends in the coming months.

The Table, Quay Street, Woodbridge, IP12 1BX. Tel: [phone]

See The Table's Facebook page here, or for a peek at their impressive Instagram, click here

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Like this? You might like The Boardwalk, Southwold and The Crown, Framlingham

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Local Gander// Coffee Shop

Baker & Barista

Ipswich

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With its rubbed down oak tables and hearty soups and homemade pastries, Baker & Barista is exactly where you'd want to while away an afternoon... And those of us who are not lucky enough to be stationed out in the sticks, where these beautiful, quaint coffee bars usually pop up, have been treated to a little bit of rural charm in the centre of Ipswich.

This miniature village-style coffee shop, epitomising traditional Britain on the corner of St Peter's Street, never disappoints in terms of flavour, range and atmosphere (although sometimes you might be let down on actually finding a seat - it gets busy!)

Baker & Barista is genuinely one of my favourite new places in Ipswich; sitting round the back, or in the sun catching garden, you could imagine you were anywhere. Yet, stepping outside opens you up to the multitude of independent shops, florists, pubs, and often markets that line the marvel that is Ipswich's pride and joy: St Peter's Street. Perhaps this enviable location adds to its appeal, and the offbeat reputation of this cobbled street has done nothing to stifle Baker & Barista's quirky charm. That, plus the fact that this small community of local merchants have decided to add Mondays to their trading schedule and giving us even more time to explore, has raised Baker & Barista even further in my favourites list.

Often coffee shops rely, unsurprisingly, on their coffee brewing skills, something which the sister act have invested in richly, but they have never neglected their food and cold drinks menu as a result. There's always fresh pastries on offer, and their range of soft drinks, including a delicious apple and elderflower cordial, never fails to thoroughly quench your thirst. Last time I visited, I had a goat's cheese, beetroot and rocket sandwich on granary bread - to die for.

No scrimping, no fanciness, just damn good food. Add to that their growing range of workshops - including paper cutting, a personal favourite - and local music nights, and Baker & Barista has really tapped into what Ipswich needs to put it on the culture map.

Baker & Barista, 19 St Peter’s Street, Ipswich, IP1 1XF. Tel: [phone]

www.bakerandbarista.co.uk

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Like this? You might like Cult Cafe, Ipswich and Cake Shop Bakery, Woodbridge