Preview pictures of our shenanigans at Yowacon Yaoicon 2014! Better pictures to come later.
Midousuji - superneutrality
Onoda - hairspring
Toudou - indulging-inaccuracy
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Preview pictures of our shenanigans at Yowacon Yaoicon 2014! Better pictures to come later.
Midousuji - superneutrality
Onoda - hairspring
Toudou - indulging-inaccuracy
HELLO FRIENDS, WE ARE QUEER, AKA YAOICON EDITION
Hey guys! It's been a while since we've updated, mostly because the three of us haven't been able to cosplay in a group together in over a year. Although we didn't make our costumes this time, the three of us all cosplayed as characters from Yowamushi Pedal this weekend at YaoiCon in San Francisco.
We'll be posting pictures from the weekend in the upcoming weeks, as well as a few review on the uniforms we purchased. It's been a wonderful convention so far, and hopefully the last day will be just as great for us.
Look forward to it!
Hello! I love your Iori cosplay (boy does not get enough love)! Your mask is especially impressive. Would you mind telling where you got it or how you made it if you did? :)
Thank you! I was ridiculously happy that I wasn’t the only one at AX. I found one other regular Iori and then one transformed Iori. I saw a picture of a second transformed one though, which was exciting.
I made my mask. Sorry if I’m a bit rambly. I tend to get overly excited when explaining stuff or when people seem interesting in how I did something or how something works.
I sculpted it out of urethane foam (2 pound) and then we did a two vacuum form pulls. One out of a super thin sheet of styrene to even out the texture and so that the foam wouldn’t be able to stick in the plastic and then one of 1/16th” PETG. Which is a common plastic that’s pretty cheap/easy to get in big clear sheets. This was actually a mistake on my part. I’d never made a key for vacuum forming before. My key would have been completely fine if it were for an opaque piece but because of the mask being basically clear I really should have made a hard key. On the other hand because there are undercuts to the mask it was a good thing my key ended up being something I could scoop out. I kinda like the mild texture I got to the mask on the inside so I’m not sure if I’m going to change it in future or not. I could just buff the inside forever and get it back to an even clear but I may just leave it and fix it on the next one if I make another one.
After prying out the foam and styrene key I cleaned it and cut it out then cut where the actual edges go and finished off all my edges then dyed it orange. I’m not really happy with the orange it is now because I was in a hurry before the con and didn’t have time to fix it. You can dye PETG with Idye poly by following the dye instructions but instead of sitting your plastic in the pot do a few quick test pieces like you would if you were trying to tint fabric and then once you know exactly how long you need you can dye your actual piece. This will also tell you if the heat for the time you need is too much for your plastic and might cause it to warp. If it does cause your test pieces to warp you can put it in for a shorter period of time, pull it out, let the piece cool, then dip it again. Just make sure you rinse it REALLY FAST after you dip it. I didn’t rinse one of my dips quite fast enough and got a very faint streaking in part of it. For reference I only had to hold my mask under for under 30 seconds. During that time I swished it around a little so that it wouldn’t settle. I was also holding it with a pair of metal tongs.
I didn’t have any Idye poly orange so I used yellow and red and even though I dumped in all of my yellow and only the slightest bit of red (I desolved both in separate water baths first, disposable plastic storage containers that are about to be thrown out anyway are GREAT for this) it ended up being far too red. Thankfully I can fix this later by just making a new batch of yellow and dipping it in that. I purposefully made my mask a little under saturated so I could redip it later and get more of a true orange.
The holes in the mask were cut using a dremel tool. I didn’t finish my edges with the dremel though because the tool heats up just enough that it caused the plastic to not shave evenly and so my edges were finished using a box cutter. I wouldn’t recommend doing that though unless you have extremely steady hands and are very comfortable with exacto knives and box cutters already. Before I got a ceramic squared off safety knife for it I used to remove seams on BJDs and resin figure kits with an exacto and I work slow and am kind of obsessive. It’s really easy to hurt yourself or take off too much or make really uneven scraped lines on curves if you do it with a knife. So while, it’s slower and requires more stuff if you aren’t skilled enough with a box cutter to cut mitered corners on mat board, I’d suggest using sand paper and working your way to a finer and finer grit till it has the texture you want.
Safety warnings:
If you use urethane foam for anything always wear a protective mask and I would also suggest wearing some sort of gloves. Gloves aren’t strictly needed but it can help you keep from getting urethane dust under your fingernails. You really don’t want to accidentally ingest it. Working outside in a ventilated area is also important. If you have a workshop that you can hose down the floor of and that gets good air flow that’s fine too. But whatever you do don’t work on it in your house. It’s one of those things were you might be ok for awhile but it’ll cause heath problems down the line and it’s better to be safe than sorry.
Do not use a pot you plan on using again for food with Idye. The safety warnings on their website are very clear about this and after you smell it you’ll see why. For that same reason and also to preserve your sink color, do not dump your dye down the kitchen sink or the bath tub. You also want to dye in a place that is well ventilated. I opened the back door (which leads directly to my kitchen) and had a fan on.
When using a dremel wear a mask and eye protection. There will be lots of little bits of stuff flying around. You should also do this outside/in a dedicated workshop. Sometimes I wear gloves and a long sleeved shirt. Only cause you can get tiny particles of stuff flying very quickly and it can sting if it hits bare skin. Once again though this depends on the materials. Some materials you just always want to wear gloves around.
Ending notes: I may end up making another one of these. I feel like it’s a little too big and I have to make new screws for it anyway since the largest ones I could find were just too small. Originally I was planning on taking pictures during the whole process but then AX was looming ahead of me and I ended up doing a lot very quickly. If I do I’ll try to take pictures as I go. If not I’ll at least have some vacuum form progress stuff up sometime before October. Me and a friend are building our own unit at the start of next month and I should be working on a costume with lots of weird pieces by then. From start to finish this mask took about 7 hours I think. Though it was done in tiny chunks over several days while I was doing other stuff.
May I ask where the Levi cosplayer got their wig and/or how they cut and styled it? I can't find any good Levi wigs but that one. That one looks great and I like it.
http://ask-irl-levi.tumblr.com/post/60237783205/tips-and-tutorial-links-for-creating-an-accurate-length
Like I mentioned in the bottom of the post, shikarius/askaheichou's wig was done with similar base materials and different methods, so it's another option to look into if you want to switch up your processes on certain parts of the wig
Did you make your own patches for the jacket? I've been looking everywhere for some but I can't find some decent ones DX
We didn’t make the small patches. Just the large back applique. We ordered patches from this taobao shop: Direct link to patches
Using taobaospree as the shopping service. Their website is here: TaobaoSpree
Though a small warning. Some of the patches had minor defects and one had a rather large defect. I went in with a pen and darkened a lot of stray white threads on most of the patches. They look good but I’d suggest ordering early so that if anything is wrong it can be fixed. We also have some of the other patches and they look pretty good but are slightly different sizes. For instance the training patches are a little smaller than the scouting ones.
On the bright side the patches are wildly inconsistent sizes in the show and manga so that isn’t really that important.
Hi. I want to try making my own SNK cosplay so I was wondering what kind of material did you use for the jacket and the harness?
The jackets are primarily cotton twill and the harnesses are mostly a mild stretch medium weight pleather.
I actually really hate the material we have for the harnesses and am remaking them as soon as I next go downtown to buy material for other costumes. The problem with the stretch is that it causes the piece to shift slightly over the day. It also didn’t like to turn under properly. I have no idea when that will be though I plan on taking pictures during the construction of those.
The jackets also contain quite a bit of medium weight fusible interfacing in order to keep things hanging properly and straight. There’s also some feather weight in cuffs to keep them a little crisper without making them weird.
Where did you get your snk costume's from and how much did they cost?
Short answer: We made or altered most of our costume pieces ourselves.
Long answer: The jackets were made with a heavily altered commercial pattern, handmade back applique and taobao-sourced smaller scouting legion patches. We dyed skinny jeans a really light grey, found button downs in the right colors (or dyed them) and altered knee-high boots by sewing on a piece of vinyl and painting them with leather paint.
The harnesses, 3DMG blades, and Levi’s cravat were all made from scratch.
So, I can’t give you a cost, because we didn’t get them from anywhere! Sorry anon!
AX 2013 - SNK 2
Armin: ask-irl-armin
Levi: ask-irl-levi
Hanji Zoe: superneutrality
AX 2013 - SNK Hanji Zoe
Model: superneutrality
AX 2013 - SNK Levi
Model: ask-irl-levi
AX 2013 - SNK Armin
Model: ask-irl-armin
I gotta say. Ellen takes the best impromptu convention hall photos.
AX 2013 - SNK 1
Levi: ask-irl-levi
Petra is: kazuholicxodcs
a few notes from a former soldier, about the snk salute stance.
or you can see for yourselves
i get really angry when I see cosplayers pose wrong or fanarts who depict it wrong so if this can help anyone, then please??
Tips and pointers for perfecting the SnK military pose for fanart or cosplay!
Also worth noting is that your right wrist should be angled slightly inwards; your knuckles should be pointing towards the sky. A lot of people at AX were saluting with a straight wrist, which still looks off for photos even if the rest of your positioning is accurate.
Low-Budget Substitute for Delight: Daiso Soft Clay
See that stuff? That’s Daiso Soft Clay. It’s incredibly similar to Delight, another air-dry clay popular for making lightweight cosplay props and accessories (looking at you, troll horns). It looks like Delight, smells like Delight, for the most part works like Delight, and FEELS like Delight, meaning it’s a real featherweight of clays.
What makes it different from Delight? Locally, I usually find Delight for about $6.99 per package, normal price. The thing about Daiso, however, is that most of their stuff, except a few other-wise priced items, is $1.50. The clay is included in that price bracket. It comes in White, Black, Red, Yellow, Blue, Green, and a pastel Pink, Blue, and Yellow.
More on Daiso Soft Clay below the cut:
Read More
SnK/Attack on Titan 3D Maneuver Gear Master Post
Hi Mayu! :D
This is one of the hottest cosplay trends right now so there are SO many tutorials and things to help out!
So here’s Mikasa:
(I really like how there are belts and straps already so the 3DMG has places to attach n_n)
REFERENCES:
HERE is a GREAT resource by Japanese artist 緋羽. It shows all parts of the gear from many different angles to get your mind wrapped around them! (Oh take some more reference images too: ONE TWO )
FULL/PARTIAL TUTORIALS:
AMAZING Tutorial by Japanese Cosplayer Reika (Translated into English :) )
Partial tutorials by Lawliet Cosplay
Full Tutorial (Semi-Advanced) by Junkers Cosplay
Blade Tutorial by CosplayRuinedMyLife
Hardcore Working 3DMG
OTHER PEOPLE WHO MADE/ARE MAKING 3DMG AND ARE AWESOME TO LOOK AT/HAVE BEEN POSTING TIPS**:
**In other words, people more qualified than me to answer specific questions. :)
ProjectCosplay
Minomotu
Kimba
Kris
DallasPierce
Starflight Valkyries
If anyone else has other links that I should add here, please send them my way!
Good Luck on your cosplay!!!!
And lastly some inspiration by O-Z3:
There’s also Vorpal Prop’s 3dmg Blade/Hilt build writeups- Part 1 and Part 2 !
Silly pictures from my phone from AX.
Levi is indulging-inaccuracy
Mikasa is Amaryie
Hanji is Superneutrality
Armin is Hairspring
Alas I don't know who the Sonny and Bean were. If anyone knows, tell me and I'll insert links.
COSPLAY WIGS 102
Remember what you learned in Cosplay Wigs 101?
Wigs that have a FULL SKIN TOP will usually have a half-oval of flesh-colored resin that extends from the hairline of the wig to the back of the crown with wig fibers rooted directly into it. This allows you to give the wig deep middle parts, side parts, zigzag parts, and even limited twists and cornrows, while still maintaining a natural look.
Time to learn HOW to utilize that versatility; combing and heat-setting will allow you to part a full skin top wig in nearly any manner; the best part is that you can easily restyle it if you change your mind!
Click here to view the tutorial~
During the process, I used tools listed in the Cosplayer’s Wig Styling Essentials!