Fave Looks: Siam Paragon Bangkok International Fashion Week Ă Digital Fashion Week Bangkok 2015
By Andrea Bartow
Siam Paragon Bangkok International Fashion Week 2015, in collaboration with Digital Fashion Week Bangkok, was held on Nov. 5-8, 2015, at the Parc Paragon hall in the Siam Paragon shopping center, featuring a dozen shows by established and new labels.
BIFW Ă DFW BKK 2015 was a study in contrasts. On the one hand, for example, was the uber-polished Chai Gold Label show, which featured fantastic draping and pleating in a wide range of evening wear, from maxi dresses in white and saturated red, yellow, green and blue and cocktail separates in the more somber hues of black and gray, to gowns in bronze, copper and gold. And on the other hand was the fun and eclectic Absolute Siam show presented by True showcasing brands Lalalove, Gin and Milk and 77th Street. I especially loved 77th Streetâs collection, which included donut- and smiley-face-print bodysuits, a floor-length tutu, and pajama shirtdresses.
Meanwhile, Fri27Nov.âs menswear collection offered a wide range of looks that combined different influences. Take, for example, utilitarian-inspired ensembles with a hint of grunge, followed by urban-preppy looks and three-piece suits that bravely mix fabrics and patterns (e.g., camouflage, plaid and polka dots) and colors.
This yearâs BIFW Ă DFW BKK successfully showcased the genius and range of Thai designers and labels. The looks were bolder than those in other emerging fashion weeks that Iâve reviewed so far but were nonetheless wearable. The event made both fashion critics and shoppers excited to see what else Bangkok had to offer.
Some background:Â DFWÂ is an online and offline platform for designers in emerging markets to showcase their work. It uses technology to make fashion more accessible, livestreaming shows and enabling real-time online and mobile purchase during the shows. Founded in 2012 in partnership with Google and YouTube, the event is currently held only in Singapore and Thailand but will hopefully expand to more countries and cities.
A couple of years ago, a Bustle article predicted Coral Gables, Fla.-based fĂ€de zu grau as the next âlove-to-hate-them typeâ of an upcoming edition of Project Runway, but as the season unfolded, it became clear that the article could not be any more wrong. fĂ€de zu grau was quirky, rebellious, funny and sweet. In other words, he was nothing short of lovable.
The fashion designerâs work has been a reflection not only of these seemingly contradictory characteristics, but also of his many interests and talents (graphic design and furniture making), as well as his outlook in life. He tries not to take anything too seriously and believes in living simply. âIn general, for the house, for my life, for the clothes, I do not like to own much. The less you own, the happier and simpler your life is. I really like that,â he once said in a promotional video for the fashion-oriented reality TV show.
Many viewers relate to fĂ€de zu grauâs philosophy and have been asking the designer where they can buy his creations. (I myself have been crushing on the âNot a Shred of Evidence Exists That Life Is Seriousâ blazer from his New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2015 collection for Project Runway.)
The designer gave us the lowdown on the inspiration for his newly launched fzg-geÀr and efzege-te clothing lines, which are now available on his website, as well as his Project Runway experience and other plans and projects.
Andrea Bartow: You have held a number of different jobs, from hospital dispatcher to house painter to graphic designer. How did you end up as a fashion designer?
fĂ€de zu grau: for years i was trying to adjust purchased clothes to make them âmine,â but it just wasnât enough. so ten years ago i bought a sewing machine and PENG! that changed everything. LIBERATION! within my first year of sewing i made pants, shirts, bags, hats. ⊠i never stopped. last year i found an investor, turned into a company and hired paul, a fabulouzzz clothes maker from australia. together we produce our âfzg-geĂ€r,â which is handmade and hand-printed here in our miami studio. but Iâm also still the graphic designer that you mentioned, doing all of our ads and other promotional materials, including the website design.
AB: I absolutely loved your spring/summer 2015 collection at New York Fashion Week. Some of my favorite looks were the blazer and pant ensemble and the little dress overalls. Your new collection is fantastic as well. I am getting sporty, urban and even futuristic vibes from it, and I love that each piece is unique, just like the wearer. What is the inspiration for the collection?
fzg: generally i donât think in terms of collections. forcing some sort of cohesiveness into a couple of looks always seemed so artificial to me. i like to keep it very open. more surprising to myself and the people that are interested in my work. having ten completely different looks totally qualifies as a âcollectionâ for me. the clothes that iâm wearing every day are super non-cohesive, and so i donât feel the need to follow the traditional idea of a collection. i really like your observation regarding the new cuts that we offer. sporty, urban ⊠right on! the inspiration came from my project runway fans actually. many contacted me to find out where they could buy the clothes that i am wearing, and so we started to make them. they are now for sale at fadezugrau.com. one-offs only! no two garments are the same.
AB: What are your favorite places to go to in Miami? How has the city inspired your life and work?
fzg: my husband john and i love champagne lunches on the beach, but that doesnât happen often anymore since i started my company, which is a shame because we live sooo close to the water. there is just no time to go to places around here anymore. but we are planning to do a photo shoot on location soon, and so i will actually see the city again! chuckle. probably in wynwood, which is a cool neighborhood with lots of artists and tons of graffiti. always very inspiring. the whole ease of living in south florida inspires me a lot, and it reflects in my creations. we make special clothes that donât need special care. just throw them in the washing machine and PUFF ⊠done! john and i live very simple. i canât even imagine having to iron clothes or dragging them to a dry cleaner. what a waste of time.
âwhat i liked the most about being on (project runway) [were] the friendships that developed between some of the designers. ⊠four hours of sleep was the norm, but no matter how tired we were after challenges we still found time to dish and laugh our asses off each night.â â fĂ€de zu grau
AB: What is the latest movie you have seen? The latest song you have listened to?
fzg: we donât have cable because neither one of us has time to watch anything, and there is rarely a movie in the theaters that interests us. at night i might watch a german talk show or some documentary on youtube while sippinâ on a glass of wine, ⊠but thatâs it. music wise, lately i work out to some bizarre russian â80s radio station that plays weird stuff in all kinds of languages. really fun. once a week i go out dancing to â80s, but other than that i listen to very laid-back stuff. sleepy, lazy jazz, for example, which always reminds me of the great vacations that we had in provincetown.
AB: From the audienceâs perspective, Project Runway seems, at times, a very intense experience for the designers. How was your experience in the show? How has the show affected you and your view of fashion?
fzg: intense is right. the experience was weird, exhausting, exhilarating and fabulous. all of it. no outside contact and no electronics for the designers during the complete time of filming, plus the long days of work made it all feel very surreal. i thought escaping east germany or coming to america were already huuuge experiences in my life, but making it onto project runway twice and showing at new york fashion week almost tops it all. what i liked the most about being on the show was the friendships that developed between some of the designers. i shared a room with alexander, sean and kini, and we had a HIL - arious time! four hours of sleep was the norm, but no matter how tired we were after challenges we still found time to dish and laugh our asses off each night. it went by so fast. one day i will sit down and digest it. maybe i have to write a book about it and my life in general at some point. giggle.
AB: I and countless other fans would love to see you in your own fashion-related TV show. If you could have your own show, what would it be about?
fzg: my idea is to open a little store that provides everything for a healthy and positive lifestyle. a very broad range from clothing to food to interior spaces, but also furniture, which i like to build. the whole concept would be about simplification and how you can live a fulfilled life without falling for the usual distractions. every week, i imagine, i would work together with a different artist to create something to sell at the store. i talked to a couple of former project runway designers about this idea, and they are very interested in participating. THAT would be great entertainment. all the hyped drama on television right now feels very negative and unproductive. inspiring and thought-provoking entertainment is missing. on âblogging project runwayâ i read that people are over the drama and actually want to see some craftsmanship again. so my show would come just at the right time! any producers that are interested in my fresh concept please contact me at [email protected]. chuckle.
AB: If you could dress anybody in the world, who would it be and why?
fzg: innnnnteresting question. well ⊠maybe karl lagerfeld! i find him to be very interesting and seriously inspiring, and he might even like my creations. might!
AB: What are some projects that we can look forward to in the near future?
fzg: although i just built a lot of furniture for our new sewing and cutting stations, all current projects are fashion-related. more fab new âfzg-geĂ€râ will be available soon! also, by may we plan to offer a new line with sayings, available on our website and in a few local miami stores. many people are asking about the shirts that i was wearing on project runway with sayings like âhuh?,â âno thanks!â and â the fan favorite â âhappy atheist.â we are working on getting those up on the site. but my next really, reaaaally big project is a vacation. the first in five years or so. a european tour. visiting my parents and friends in germany, but also places that we havenât been in so long, like paris. just some time of relaxation before coming back and jumping right back in again.
See more of fĂ€de zu grauâs work on his website and on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
Exploring the Southeast-Asian city-state with Jonalyn Esquivel, pediatric speech-language therapist
Andrea Bartow: Tell us a little about yourself.
Jonalyn Esquivel: Iâm a pediatric speech-language therapist. I received my bachelorâs degree from the University of the Philippines, Manila, in 2003 and have worked with children with special needs ever since. Iâm one of the few people who can honestly say, âI love my job.â Where else can you do crazy stuff, have fun, help people and get paid for it? Itâs brilliant!
I worked in Manila for a few years (which was great), but at some point in my career, I wanted to search for more opportunities. So seven years ago, I decided to relocate to Singapore. I have to say that it was one of the best decisions Iâve ever made in my life. This country has so much to offer. It was the perfect choice of place for me because itâs just a few hours from Manila. I could always book a flight if I wanted to visit my family and friends without spending thousands of dollars. Singapore is one of the safest places to live in, and as a single woman, safety is at the top of my checklist. Not to mention accessible public transportation services, nationwide cleanliness and of course, English as the main language of communication.
I love exploring, having an adventure and tackling new things. Traveling is second nature to me. I pretty much have rollers under my feet. So every few months, I take time off and fly anywhere. I love photography too! So putting these two together is a perfect combination. Experiencing different cultures taught me the best life lessons. Itâs a great way to find oneself, and Iâve learned to embrace both fun and difficult times. This perspective gives much more meaning to life.
Recently, Iâve discovered another passion to include while traveling, which is joining triathlon races. This year, I decided to join the Ironman 70.3 in Cebu, Philippines. The sense of accomplishment at the end of the race was an all-time high. It gives you the feeling of resilience and endless possibilities. It was definitely one of my proudest moments.
So adding that to traveling and photography, itâs the perfect formula for an adventure.
AB: How would you describe Singapore to someone who has never been?
JE: Singapore is a teeny-weeny tropical city-state known as âLittle Red Dotâ because thatâs how it looks like on a world map. Contrary to its size, Singapore has a wide spectrum of diverse cultures in Asia. It offers both a satisfactory feeling of living in one of the most advanced cities in the world with all its convenience without forgetting the importance of tradition and history. It is like a breakfast buffet spread in a fancy hotel. Singapore is made up of Chinese, Malays, Indians, Eurasians and all other people of various nationalities, who bring their own distinct cultures to the table, yet, every single one preserves a harmonious relationship with each other. This is specifically evident when you walk around the city, where you can see Chinese and Hindu temples, churches and mosques located near each other. But the most common denominator between people here is the love for food. We just love to eat! Hawker centres (Singapore food courts) are located everywhere. There, you can choose any food that will sure satisfy your taste buds.
âSingapore is made up of Chinese, Malays, Indians, Eurasians and all other people of various nationalities, who bring their own distinct cultures to the table, yet, every single one preserves a harmonious relationship with each other.â â Jonalyn Esquivel
AB: If that person is in town only for one day, what would you recommend him or her doing?
JE: One day is definitely not a lot of time to explore the best places in this city, but I will try to walk you through and [give you] a taste of Singapore. I have to recommend based on my experience living as a local and on the activities I enjoy the most.
In the morning
Singapore is a walkable city, and it could be a melting pot during the day. So before you head out in the morning, wear light clothes appropriate for sunny weather. You will be walking a lot, so a pair of good, comfortable footwear is necessary.
In the morning, take a stroll in Singapore Botanic Gardens. Not known to many, this garden has been [the first and only tropical botanic garden to be inaugurated on] the UNESCOâs World Heritage List. If you are a runner, the gardens offer a collection of flora and fauna that will make your run a breeze. It also houses the National Orchid Garden, which offers a wide variety of orchids from around the world. You can have a walkabout for a fee of SG$5 ($3-4). For breakfast, I highly recommend the Casa Verde cafe, located inside the gardens. You can choose to enjoy the local delights such as nasi lemak, mee siam or laksa. If youâre not feeling the vibe of a heavy meal in the morning, they have Western and Italian choices. You donât have to worry about carrying too much cash around. Most stores here accept cash and credit cards.
Singapore Botanic Gardens
Opening hours: 5 a.m.-midnight daily
Entrance fee: Free
Getting there: It is easily accessible by train. You can alight at the Botanic Gardens MRT Station.
For more information on transport you can visit their website: https://www.sbg.org.sg.
In the afternoon
Now after breakfast you would want to burn the calories off, so head your way towards the city area, towards Arab Street. This time, I would advise you to take a cab instead of public transport, as this is a little tricky to find. From the Botanic Gardens, it will take you about 10-15 minutes to get there, and it should not cost you more than SG$10. Arab Street, also known as Kampong Glam, is the heart of Malay heritage in Singapore. The Malay word âkampongâ means âvillage,â and âglamâ or âgelamâ is a particular tree that [has been growing in the area since] the early years of Singapore. Kampong Glam originated as a fishing village and was eventually allocated to Malay Sultan Hussain Mohamed Shah by Sir Stamford Raffles in 1822. Throughout the 19th century, it became populated and grew into more prominence as a Muslim community, including Arab-Bugis traders.
Today, Kampong Glam is a ground with an eclectic fusion of history, culture and trendy lifestyle. Thereâs the large Sultan Mosque and Malay Heritage Centre, where you can learn more about Malay history and culture. For foodies, wander around Muscat Street and Bussorah Street for some Mediterranean cuisine. I would recommend Derwish Turkish Mediterranean Restaurant. Its kebabs are delish, although you might need to wait a little longer to get your food on the table during busy hours.
Once your belly is satisfied, explore the nearby streets, Haji Lane and Arab Street, for a little shopping. This area showcases traditional Persian wares, carpets, lamps, perfumes, massage oils, body soaps and even traditional Malay-Indonesian dresses (âkebayaâ). Itâs the best place to shop for fabrics and Indonesian âbatik.â
If you are searching for more modern, hip and trendy finds, head towards Haji Lane. This narrow alleyway is filled with independent designer stores that will bring out the fashionista in you. Young crowds hover to this place on most days especially during weekends. What makes this small backstreet vibrant are the colourful shophouses, with their preserved original architecture and interesting graffiti like artworks on their walls. Every store has its own play on stylish-hip collections of great bargains. Shop owners and store managers are warm and friendly, keeping your experience more momentous.
In the late afternoon towards evening
After your shopping discoveries on Haji Lane, itâs time to marvel the beauty of Gardens by the Bay. Now, head your way towards the Marina Bay area. From Bugis MRT Station, take a train on the blue line towards Bayfront MRT Station. From there, walk your way out towards Gardens by the Bay.
I would advise you to get here before the sun goes down. That way you can capture its beauty [as it goes from day to night]. For shutterbugs, it is imperative to bring your tripod. You will regret it if you donât.
Oneâs visit cannot be complete without visiting Gardens by the Bay. Singapore, being one small city, is always striving to be a garden city. Gardens by the Bay is a reflection of such vision â modern greenhouses, waterfront parks, solar cells. This place is a nook for photography lovers. The landscape is a mesmerising view of greens and structures feeding oneâs fascination for art and architecture. Once there, you will be greeted by 22-metre-high âAvatarâ-like structures, also called Supertrees. For a fee of SG$5, you can take a lift up to the Skyway, a 128-metre-long aerial walkway, and have a view of the Marina Bay area. You can enjoy this view for as long as you like, or as long as your knees can hold up. You can buy the tickets at the entrance of the walkway (cash only) or at the ticket hub.
The gardens have two conservatory domes â the Flower Dome, which is a collection of plants, flowers and trees from all over the world, and Cloud Forest, which has the tallest man-made waterfalls in the world. These two domes include a magnificent display of flora and fauna and are oftentimes decorated according to upcoming festivals and celebrations. A visit to both domes would cost you SG$28. If you are a little low on the budget, worry not. You can explore the rest of the gardens for free! In December, the gardens are [filled] with Christmas festivities. Expect Christmas markets, lights and sounds shows, perhaps Santa and more lights.
The map can be downloaded from their site: http://www.gardensbythebay.com.sg/en/plan-your-visit/gardens-map.html.
Skyway, Flower Dome and Cloud Forest
Opening hours: 9 a.m.-9 p.m. daily (last ticket sales are at 8 p.m.)
Entrance fee: SG$28
All outdoor gardens
Opening hours: 5 a.m.-2 a.m. daily
Entrance fee: Free
Now before you end your night, have a Singaporean dinner at Satay by the Bay. It is an upscale version of a Singaporean hawker centre, whereby local cuisines are featured in food stalls. I would recommend you to try any of the following: Singaporeâs famous chili crab, chicken rice, grilled stingray, Hokkien prawn mee, satay (barbequed meat on a stick served with peanut sauce and rice), roti prata (fried flour-based pancake) and fried carrot cake. These are a few of Singaporeâs famous dishes, and I love every single one of them.
When traveling alone and budget is tight, it may not be a good idea to order a chili crab. Usually, these babies are a little pricey. And please always ask for the price before ordering. Always!!!
Youâve come to the end of your one-day journey around Singapore, and I bet by the end of the day, you would like to hit the sack.
AB: Any tips for first-time visitors (e.g., accommodations, transportation, modes of payment, safety and/or what to wear)?
JE: Singapore is a very small country with a lot to offer for everyone. Accommodations can be expensive especially when located in the city area â Orchard Road, Somerset, City Hall. However, should you want to splurge on accommodations, any hotel around train stations would be great for convenience. For those who are tight on budget, there are several budget hotels and backpackers hostels. Cheaper hotels are located somewhere in Bugis or Lavender. Trains and buses are accessible everywhere and simple enough to follow.
Singapore is very humid, so choose light-coloured clothes in natural, breathable fabric. Bring a water bottle and refill at the public water stations. Yes, you can drink the tap water in Singapore.
Beauty pageant aficionados may already be familiar with fashion photographer Raymond Saldaña. In addition to being an editorial, commercial and celebrity photographer, heâs the resident lensman of Binibining Pilipinas (Miss Philippines). Thanks to him, Binibining Pilipinas has some of the best glamour photos among international and national pageants. The photo shoots are always inspired and bring out the true beauty of each candidate.
Yet despite having photographed some of the worldâs best-loved beauty queens, including Miss Earth Netherlands 2012 and Miss Grand Netherlands 2014 Shauny Bult, Miss Universe 2012 1st runner-up Janine Tugonon, Miss Universe 2013 3rd runner-up Ariella Arida, Miss Universe 2014 finalist Mary Jean Lastimosa and the current Miss Universe herself, Pia Wurtzbach, the photographer has kept a relatively low profile. For this interview, I turn the spotlight on the talented Saldaña and get him to talk about himself, from how he got started and his most memorable project to the places he dreams of visiting.
Andrea Bartow: Tell us a little about how you became a photographer.
Raymond Saldaña: I donât like being in pictures. I donât find myself photogenic, so I always grab the camera to shoot. I also remember being so fascinated with my best friendâs family photos on top of his familyâs piano. It was the first time I paid attention to how subjects are positioned within the frame. Back then, most pictures were shot with the people in the middle of the frame. When I tried that style during a trip abroad, all my photos came out perfect. That experience inspired me to study photography and join a photography club. I also won a photography contest when I was still starting out, which really encouraged me to pursue photography as a profession. But I also got discouraged along the way. I remember asking a friend about whether I should turn my passion for photography into a business, and he immediately said I was too old to start doing so. I was already 30 then. Two years later, however, that same friend paid for me to take his wedding photos.
AB:Â Youâre perhaps best known for your amazing glamour photos of beauty queens at the prestigious Binibining Pilipinas, but you also actually do a lot of editorial and commercial work. Which area are you most interested in?
RS: I like to shoot everything. The ability to capture beauty and special moments, share stories and touch people through the photos I produce is what inspires me to shoot.
AB: What has been your most memorable project or shoot?
RS: I was the official photographer for the recently held Mister International pageant in Manila. It was my first time to shoot for a pageant for men, with 35 male models from all over the world traveling here for the competition. It was interesting. It was like shooting for Miss Universe but with men.
AB:Â Whatâs the one camera you canât do without?
RS:Â I have a Canon EOS 6D, a handy full-frame camera that I really enjoy using. It comes with an app that enables you to view a photo on your iPad or tablet immediately after shooting, so I donât need to bring a laptop anymore. I know you can also do this with other cameras, but I find this camera model very convenient for me and my clients.
âI [remember] being so fascinated with my best friendâs family photos on top of his familyâs piano. It was the first time I paid attention to how subjects are positioned within the frame.â â Raymond Saldaña
AB:Â Whatâs the most important lesson that you learned when you were a rookie photographer?
RS: An important lesson that I learned and that I continue to use until today is the importance of Photoshop. Aside from the basic lighting techniques that a photographer should know, post-processing is a must for creating dynamic and vibrant images. The photography world is an unending exploration of techniques and styles and requires hard work and patience. You may think youâve already produced your best photo, but you may surprise yourself in your next shoots if you constantly explore. Seeing the works of the vast number of photographers around the world inspires me to continue experimenting. Until now, I still feel like a rookie photographer. A lifetime isnât enough to use all the techniques for producing a great photo, but itâs fun learning them a day at a time.
AB: How do you think has social media affected photographers, their work and their audience?
RS:Â Social media is a very useful medium to showcase and market our work. Some of my clients are people who stumbled upon my work on social media.
AB:Â How would you describe the artistic and/or photographic scene in Manila today?
RS: We have so many nice locations for various types of shoots. If the client wants to go retro, thereâs Intramuros and Chinatown. There are also a lot of great locations near Manila, like Bataan, Batangas and Laguna.
AB: Books, movies or both, and why?
RS: I enjoy both. Whenever I watch a really good film, my attention goes straight to the cinematography, color treatment and location of the shoot. Sometimes, Iâm more awed with these elements than with the story of the movie. Whenever I read books, I imagine the story and scenes, picturing everything just like in a movie â I create the cinematography and color treatment in my mind. The only downside of reading books for me is always having to stop to check the meaning of a word in the dictionary. I find this habit funny because sometimes you think you already understand a word and you can already imagine the scene based on that meaning, but when you check the dictionary, you find that the word means something completely different, and you have to reimagine everything with the real meaning.
AB:Â Places you dream of visiting, and why?
RS:Â India, Dubai, Turkey and Europe. The culture and scenery in those places are very photogenic and cinematic. Iâd definitely love to capture wonderful images in those places when I visit them.
AB:Â Who are the other photographers you admire most, and how have they influenced your work and/or life?
RS: I admire Annie Leibovitz for her dramatic portraits; Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott for their vibrant fashion photos; Tim Walker for his crazy, artistic images; and Richard Avedon for his iconic, black-and-white shots. These are just a few of the talented photographers who inspire me.
See more of Saldañaâs work on Facebook, Tumblr (Raymond Saldaña Photography and Klickbox Photography) and Instagram.
Philippine Fashion Week made a triumphant return with its spring/summer shows on the last weekend of November at the City of Dreams Manila integrated resort and casino in Parañaque, Metro Manila. The designers in the streamlined roster of 11 all presented stunning collections that reflected their ever-distinct aesthetic and inspirations. Sidney Sio presented a black-and-white collection of dresses and separates infused with urban, Victorian and Filipiniana influences, while Erwin Tan showcased a decadent collection of evening wear featuring impeccable beadwork and dreamy lace, in a nod to some of East Asiaâs style capitals â Beijing, Shanghai and Hong Kong.
Meanwhile, Jerome Ang and Kaye Morales produced some of the most interesting collections. Ang imagined a bohemian Chanel and presented one-of-a-kind looks, like a pink open-shoulder boucle top and matching roomy cropped pants, while Morales reinterpreted punk with rainbow colors and prints and leather, such as the closing look consisting of a red riveted top, black leather hotpants, a black train and red leather knee-high lace-up shoes. Modern-day punk Wonder Woman, anyone?
Some designers, like Jeffrey Rogador and Pat Santos, showed more approachable collections that were no less stylish. Rogador delivered his signature elevated streetwear in luxe fabrics and relaxed silhouettes, like a slouchy heather off-the-shoulder jumpsuit, while Santos sent out a day-to-night resort collection of flouncy dresses and airy separates, such as a tiered blue-and-green maxi dress.
As always, PhFW did a fabulous job of showcasing the creativity of Filipino designers, and as a fashion critic, I couldnât ask for more. Well, I can think of maybe one or two things that can be improved. First, I wish itâd include some emerging and/or student designers to its lineup, and second, I wish it would provide some information on the availability of the designersâ latest collections. Wouldnât it be wonderful if it could partner with an online retailer to make the collections more accessible to fashionistas around the world, a la Digital Fashion Week?
Fave Looks: Manila Fashion Festival Spring/Summer 2016
By Andrea Bartow
Dresses were the pieces de resistance at the latest Manila Fashion Festival, held on Oct. 22-25, 2015, at The Eye inside the Green Sun hotel in Makati, Metro Manila. From Esme Palaganasâ airy dresses in relaxed silhouettes and muted shades of blue, peach and yellow to Pablo Cabahugâs reworking of the âbarongâ (traditional menâs shirt) and âpiñaâ (fabric made from pineapple leaves) into romantic cocktail and evening dresses, the shows offered more than enough options to fill up stylish womenâs spring and summer wardrobes.
There were also some cute separates, like a baby blue boxy shirt and matching high-waisted shorts by Eliz Marcelo and a colorblock off-the-shoulder dolman and matching wide-leg cropped pants by Androgyne (a clothing line of online retailer Seek the Uniq), but surprisingly no swimwear! There were also some ensembles that might be more appropriate for the fall and winter, such as Randy Ortizâs coats, jackets and jumpsuits, but that were nevertheless magnificent. (I can totally picture badass movie star Angelina Jolie wearing Ortizâs pieces.) And who says you canât start shopping for fall or winter outfits anyway?
If I had to choose the best from among the 31 collections at this seasonâs MMF, it wouldâve been a toss between Veejay Florescaâs collection of patchwork bohemian dresses and Cheetah Riveraâs collection of dainty cocktail dresses and flowy maxi dresses and jumpsuits. I would buy almost every piece in their collections if I could!
And speaking of buying, the current collections of some MFF designers are now available at online retailer AVA.
Fave Looks: South African Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2016
By Andrea Bartow
The South African Fashion Week autumn/winter shows, which were held on Oct. 21-24, 2015, in Johannesburg, featured collections from a strong lineup of 37 designers, almost half of whom were showing at the fashion event for the first time.
Owing perhaps to the countryâs subtropical climate of warm summers and cool winters, many of the womenâs ready-to-wear looks were very versatile and functional; day dresses and separates, such as by womenswear brands Adam & Eve, Iamione and Mantsho, were light enough for spring, while cocktail and evening dresses, such as by designers Amanda Laird Cherry and Colleen Eitzen, were both stylish and warm enough for the colder months. The combination of South African cultural elements with the designersâ worldly experience and fashion-forward thinking made the SAFW womenswear shows a joy and pleasure to review.
Lakme Fashion Weekâs winter/festive shows, which were held on Aug. 26-30, 2015, at Palladium Hotel in Mumbai, had much to offer to fashionistas from all walks of life. There were colorful day dresses and skirts for the cool girl next door, such as from womenswear brand Sangria, and light print coats and suits for the modern career woman, such from Aartivijay Gupta.
Many of the looks can transition from summer to fall and from tropical areas to more temperate regions. This practicality and versatility, however, didnât mean that the shows lacked fantasy and whimsy. For fall brides and grooms, for example, designers like Neeta Lulla and Manish Malhotra presented fit-for-royalty formal wear made with luxe fabrics and intricate handiwork.
The Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015 shows last March 17, 2015, in Mumbai were a revelation. I loved the unapologetic use of color and prints and the variety of textiles.
The shows were truly an embodiment of the East and West and of tradition and modernity. Some of my favorite looks were a print âmulmulâ minidress by Hemant and Nandita at the Harperâs Bazaar Inspires Mulmul show, a floral khaki trench coat by Divya Sheth and a cropped top and high-waisted skirt ensemble by Neha Agarwal.
Jeffrey Rogadorâs collections were some of the few that stood out to me at the last two editions of Philippine Fashion Week. The designer amped up the cool factor of urban ensembles by adding a distinct âPinoyâ stamp, be it names of popular jeepney stops in Metro Manila in his JPNY Pilipinas collection or images of the countryâs national heroes (courtesy of artist Rowena Lopez) in his Super Pinoy collection. In a way, the juxtaposition of streetwear and Rogadorâs Filipino heritage in these collections (which he has since spun into brands JPNY and JR by Jeffrey Rogador, respectively) reminded me of contemporary Japanese artist Takashi Murakamiâs work for French fashion house Louis Vuitton.
By all accounts, Rogador is a down-to-earth designer and person in general. He believes fashion is for everyone and designs world-class apparel for regular people. While most can only dream of the couture that is modeled on the runways, they can more easily avail his designs. The designerâs latest collection, for instance, goes on sale starting this month at Folded and Hung retail stores. Even the designerâs personal Instagram account features noncelebrities wearing pieces from his brands.
Indeed, despite having received countless awards (e.g., finalist, 6th annual MEGA Young Designers Competition, and Best Jeans Award, Jeansation 2) and collaborated with some of the biggest brands in the Philippine fashion industry (e.g., with Leviâs for its âGo Forthâ campaign, Jag Jeans for its JAG Origins symposium and McJim Classic Leather for Mercedes-Benz Stylo Asia Fashion Week), he remains as humble as he was when he started out over a decade ago. âYou have to establish good working relationships with everyone, from the smallest to the highest person you meet, all the time. Itâs not always you and only your ideas or talent that matter; you need everyone in the industry. Blend with them, and be nice to everyone,â he was quoted as saying in a profile in Manila Standard Today.
I caught up with the Philippinesâ King of Streetwear about his journey to becoming a designer, his latest collections and his life outside of fashion.
Andrea Bartow: Tell us a little about your road to becoming a fashion designer.
Jeffrey Rogador: From an early age, I was already exposed to fashion because our family had a small garment business. I was influenced by my grandma and mom, both of whom make dresses.
Nineties teen icon Jolina Magdangal was my classmate from elementary to high school. We were best friends, so I did all of her crazy K-pop looks, which made her very famous at that time. She had endorsements from almost every product category, from shampoos and toothpastes to food and watches.
That experience made me realize that if people know what I do for Jolina and thereâs a massive market out there, I could be a designer; after all, I thought, I know how to make clothes and brand them for a particular market.
In college, I took up fine arts, majoring in advertising. I was also a member of the UST (University of Santo Tomas) Salinggawi Dance Troupe, which dominated the UAAP (University Athletic Association of the Philippines) Cheerdance Competition at that time, and I designed all of our costumes. Maybe that was how I fell in love with activewear and the sporty look.
In 2004, I was a finalist of the 6th MEGA Young Designers Competition, which became my launchpad and opened doors for me in the Philippine fashion industry.
AB: Some designers have formal training, while others do not. What made you decide to pursue design studies (at the Fashion Institute of the Philippines) even when you already have a fine arts degree (from UST)? How essential was that training to your success?
JR: Itâs essential for a designer to have proper training. It gives him or her sufficient knowledge in pattern making, colors, fabrics, merchandising, illustration, marketing and other important aspects of fashion design. But itâs not only the things you learn in school that are important. Itâs also essential to learn about work ethic, public relations and good manners, to gain experience and to love your craft. Learning all of these is the key to staying power in the industry. Continuous learning is also important. A designer should know how to research and anticipate global trends and styles at least two years ahead of time.
AB: What has been your greatest obstacle as an emerging designer, and how did you overcome it?
JR: Nonstop failures. ⊠As a designer, youâll experience a lot of frustrations, mistakes and downfalls in the process of positioning yourself. Itâs very difficult to establish oneâs name as a label/brand. Iâve failed many times. I opened stores in malls thrice, but that didnât work out and I became bankrupt. Iâve been bashed by a lot of clients, writers, editors and colleagues. I came to a point where I almost stopped designing clothes, but I didnât. I love what I do, and I think Iâll be doing this until the day I die.
AB: You have garnered so many accolades for your work and done so many high-profile projects, but what would you say has been the highlight of you career?
JR: I think it was only in 2014 when I really felt that all of my hard work was starting to pay off. This was the year I made the ready-to-wear JPNY Pilipinas collection. The collection was well-received by both the market and critics. It got a lot of publicity; it was featured in TV shows, design collaborations, exhibits and fashion editorials and was worn by celebrities/industry movers.
That same year, however, my dad passed away; so while the collection was soaring, I was also in a lot of pain.
âI want to show the world that Filipino talents are world class. And most of all, I want to educate everyone, especially the youth, not only about how to dress up but also how to love our country and products.â â Jeffrey Rogador
AB: I loved that your last two collections have a very distinct Pinoy stamp on them. What inspired you to move in that direction? Are we going to see more of that in the future?
JR: In 2013, Nina Garcia of Marie Claire was invited to the JAG Origins show during Philippine Fashion Week. For that show, three designers were asked to reinterpret Jag denim with their own aesthetic and produce collections that represent Philippine fashion. As one of those designers, I had the chance to speak to and get some pointers from Ms. Garcia. She said a designer should be distinct and should not forget about his or her roots because thatâll be the key to his or her success.
From then on, I thought about how to inject our history, values and culture into RTW (ready to wear), which is my specialty. I want to promote patriotism and the Philippines by using details or elements about our country and making them current or relevant. I want to show the world that Filipino talents are world class. And most of all, I want to educate everyone, especially the youth, not only about how to dress up but also how to love our country and products. And yes, in the coming seasons, youâll definitely see more from my brands JPNY, which combines fashion and novelty, and JR by Jeffrey Rogador, which makes accessible high-fashion clothing by combining avant-garde and pop culture. Both brands are proudly Pinoy.
AB: Do you design for a particular person? How would you describe the Jeffrey Rogador man and woman?
JR: I design RTW staples, clothes that are for everyone. Thatâs the direction of my brands. The pieces in my collections are accessible and affordable. They include jackets, sweaters, shirts, pants and shorts â easy, mostly unisex pieces that people can wear every day. I want to be a part of peopleâs daily lives, at their work, events, travels or even workouts. The Jeffrey Rogador man and woman are your regular urban people who work eight hours a day and who are involved in many activities during the day and night. They want to wear something thatâs functional, comfortable and at the same time stylish.
AB: What is your favorite thing to do outside of fashion and why?
JR: I draw and paint. I enjoy simple things, like spending time with my family and friends; going out with them for lunch, dinner or coffee; and singing karaoke, drinking, swimming and traveling with them when we have time. I usually donât talk or think about fashion during my break so that I can spend quality time with them.
AB: What is your favorite food? Where is a good place to get a bite to eat in Metro Manila?
JR: I love comfort food â normal, feel-good food. I love Filipino dishes, as well as American, Italian, Mexican and Japanese ones. I love rice, Maxâs special fried chicken and Barrio Fiestaâs âkare-kareâ and crispy âpata.â
AB: Who are the three people you look up to?
JR: Life: First in line would be my dad. I grew up wanting to be like him. I really admired his outlook in life, his values and his love for everyone. I admired how he balanced his various commitments, to his work, family and friends and to the church, government and country.
Career: In the design field, I look up to Giorgio Armani. I admire how he built his career and fashion empire. In addition to his main label, Giorgio Armani, he also has Emporio Armani, Armani Exchange, Armani Jeans and Armani/Casa.
Spirituality: With regard to the Christian faith, I really admire our current pope, Pope Francis. Heâs amazing and inspiring.
AB: What is next for you?
JR: JPNY will be available in the mass market before this year ends; hopefully, itâll also expand overseas by next year. JR by Jeffrey Rogador will still be available at select Folded and Hung stores to cater to a more fashion-forward, high-end market. I have so many plans for the Jeffrey Rogador brands, including creating other product lines, like jeans, watches, bags, scents and home furnishings. Iâm happy to be doing so much, but Iâm also training junior designers whoâll take the reins in designing for my brands two to three years from now. I also want the brands to develop a close relationship with SIFCare here in the Philippines. The foundation has a program that helps fund childrenâs education, among other things. I want to donate a portion of the proceeds from the JR by Jeffrey Rogador Super Pinoy collection to the foundation. I want to inspire everyone to do something good for others.
See more of Rogadorâs work on his website and on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram (Jeffrey Rogador and JPNY).
Philippine Fashion Week returned in (almost) full force with a stronger 18-designer lineup for its holiday 2015 shows, which were held on June 12-14 at Aura Atrium inside SM Aura Premier in Taguig, Metro Manila.
I also loved the collections with the distinct âPinoyâ stamp, such as Lyle Ibañezâs, which used eco-friendly fabrics made from âpiñaâ (pineapple) and abaca in reinterpretations of elegant silhouettes, and Jeffrey Rogadorâs, which paid tribute to national heroes through modern pieces bearing their images. (May I add that based on what Iâve seen from Rogador in the past couple of seasons, he seems to be on a mission to bring Filipino fashion and culture to the rest of the world. Bravo!)
Speaking of heroes, some of my favorite menâs looks seem to have been inspired by fictional characters. (Take, for example, Anthony Nocomâs Clark Kent, Philipp Tampusâ Capt. Kirk and Kaye Moralesâ Nobutada.)
And what would a June fashion event be without wedding gowns? Thankfully, Jun-jun Cambeâs, Boyet Dysangcoâs, EsAc by Audie AEâs and Cherry Vericâs collections incorporated looks that are sure to make any bride look divine.
Josef Geranio, who grew up in Montreal, recognized his interest in photography early on. After studying architecture at Vanier College and obtaining a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree at Concordia University, he worked for a well-known portrait photographer in the city. A year later, he opened his own studio in Vieux-Montreal.
His passion has taken him to other culture capitals, including Athens, Milan and New York. Currently based in Sydney, the versatile photographer has worked on countless high-profile projects, including fashion magazine spreads and advertising campaigns. His roster of clients includes Clin dâoeil, Elle Canada, Toronto Life Fashion, Marie Saint Pierre, Au Coton, Buffalo David Bitton and Parasuco Jeans.
Outside of his professional projects, Geranio finds the time to do more personal work. For instance, his photo series âWhen I Look at You,â which went on display at Photo Technica Exhibition Space in the inner-city Sydney suburb of Chippendale, âexploits his own face as a convenient doppelganger in an amusing exercise mimicking men and women.â He has exhibited his work in galleries around the world.
The lensman, who also taught at the Australian Centre for Photography, took the time to share some words of advice to aspiring photographers.
On the most important lesson he learned when he was starting out as a photographer:
âWork hard at your craft, keep trying new things, be true to yourself and keep your mind open to new adventures.â
On how photography has changed since he started and where he sees it in 10 years:
âThe major change since I started is in a technical sense (i.e., from analog to digital). In 10 years, I guess it will just keep evolving digitally.â
On whether itâs still essential for photographers to learn how to shoot with film and develop photos in a dark room as the world and industry increasingly become digital:
âI donât think so, but photographers such as myself who have that knowledge can have a better sense of a good quality print, especially when it concerns black and white printing.â
On how he develops his vision for each photo shoot:
âI always get ideas [from seeing other] artworks, films, songs etc. and then Iâll write [my ideas] down in a notebook or somewhere on my computer and later somehow blend some of those ideas into a shoot.â
On how he balances between the artistic and business aspects of being a photographer:
âItâs difficult at times, but it always depends on the client, if they are open to your style or vision and willing to pay for it.â
See more of Geranioâs work on his website and on Instagram.
For close to two decades, many Filipino designers and clothing labels debuted their collections at Philippine Fashion Week, then the only large-scale fashion event in the country. In the spring/summer 2015 season, however, the designers and brands were suddenly split between two events â PhFW and Manila Fashion Festival.
Founded in 1997 by fashion show producer Joey Espino and co-run by his brother, fashion designer Audie Espino (aka Audie AE), PhFW is considerably younger than its âBig 4â counterparts in London, Milan, New York and Paris.
Espino was inspired to organize a large-scale fashion event in the Philippines in 1994 while attending New York Fashion Week. He saw how the event helped publicize the designersâ work and the industry in general and thought of how much an event like that would do for the talented but lesser-known Filipino designers.
Some 18 years and 26 seasons later, PhFW remains, albeit not without some challenges. Its roster of designers dropped from a total of 62 during the spring/summer 2014 shows to just 11 during the spring/summer 2015 shows. A philstar.com article uncovered two possible reasons for the exodus of designers from the event â the substantial increase in participation fees, which are not publicly known, and the designersâ lack of control over the runway production. Some of the designers who left PhFW eventually found a new home in MFF.
â⊠We are not in competition with anyone â itâs nice to have more platforms for showcasing Philippine fashion.â â Ronnie Cruz
There were many possible reasons the designers jumped ship to the then unknown MFF. The festival didnât charge participation fees that season (its first) and subsidized the cost of hiring models. Further, it gave the designers much more freedom in the runway production, leaving the model casting, styling and audiovisual aspects up to them. Finally, the event was going to be produced by Art Personas, a well-regarded artist management, event management and video production company.
MFF was launched a year earlier than intended, according to another philstar.com article. Art Personas CEO Ronnie Cruz said the Korea Model Association and marketing firm One Globe Ltd. approached the company about organizing a model search that year, the winner of which will represent the country at the 10th Asia New Star Model Contest the next year, 2015. What began as an idea for a ârunway challengeâ with designer Anthony Ramirez for the search became a full-fledged event with 11 emerging designers and Art Personasâ own clothing label, ARIN.
Cruz, however, has stressed that there is no bad blood between Art Personas and Runway Productions, the organizer of PhFW, saying, â⊠We are not in competition with anyone â itâs nice to have more platforms for showcasing Philippine fashion.â MFF emerged as the best fashion show of 2014 in a poll by Previewâs Stylebible.ph, and last March, it returned for its second season with an even bigger roster of 24 designers and ARIN.
What does all this mean for PhFW? Despite the brouhaha, I believe the event isnât going anywhere anytime soon. It has made significant contributions to the local industry and designers by providing a platform on which to showcase exceptional Filipino talent and brands, which have included visionaries like Michael Cinco and Lesley Mobo. That has got to count for something.
And as for MFF? I say the more, the merrier. Thereâs nothing wrong with a little competition. Perhaps with these two events, Filipino designers will finally get the long overdue global recognition.
The Philippine Fashion Week spring/summer 2015 collections, which were shown on Oct. 24-26, 2015, at SMX Convention Center in Pasay, Metro Manila, included pieces that both reflected Philippine culture and had global appeal, like Jeffrey Rogadorâs sweatshirts and track pants that read popular jeepney stops in Metro Manila and Sidney Sioâs and Audie AE for EsAcâs barong-inspired formal wear.
The designers and clothing brands offered everything one would need for a stylish getaway â Arnold Galangâs caftan for lounging by the pool, Pat Santosâ white ensemble for a nice day out, Kashiecaâs Audrey Hepburn-inspired black top and skirt for cocktails and Eric delos Santosâ deep-V aubergine dress for an evening gala.
Fave Looks: Manila Fashion Festival Fall/Winter 2015
By Andrea Bartow
The Manila Fashion Festival fall/winter 2015 shows presented countless stunning looks for day (see the collections of Tony Evan, Vania Romoff and Odelon Simpao, for example), but I was captivated more by the evening looks, perhaps because the spectacular red carpet ensembles from the recently concluded Met Gala and Cannes Film Festival were still on my mind.
The collections, which were presented on March 19-22, 2015, at The Eye inside the Green Sun hotel in Makati City, Metro Manila, showed that thereâs more to the fashion world than just the big names. Rhett Ealaâs deep-V black-and-white dress and Esme Palaganasâ black tiered dress would be perfect for less formal evening events, like the Glamour Women of the Year Awards. Cheetah Riveraâs red bateau-neck dress and Jerome Angâs salmon pink floral creation wouldâve easily given the Diors and Pradas a run for their money at the China: Through the Looking Glass-themed Met Gala in New York last month, while Jaz Cerezoâs simply stunning cream train dress and Michael Leyvaâs silver-gray strapless ball gown wouldâve stolen the show at the Cannes Film Festival, also last month.
For many aspiring photographers, seeing the works of masters like Koto Bolofo, Helmut Newton and Brett Walker and those of up-and-coming ones like Rita Marie inspires them to keep chasing the dream.
Rita Marie, whose body of work spans continents and ranges from fashion spreads for top publications in Manila, like Lifestyle Asia, People Asia and The Philippine Star, to model portfolios for the prestigious Elite Model Management in Toronto, started out in marketing. Although she has always loved taking photos, it was not until she went to study at York University in Toronto that she started pursuing the craft more seriously. She began with a relatively simple project for the university, and because of her talent and work ethic, she soon started getting high-profile work.
I love the effortlessness that comes across in her work, be it her fashion photos or her portraits. She knows how to bring out the best in a person or subject, and others agree. âMy favorite thing about these photographs is the light and the way it creates shadows across the models,â editor Alice Byrne said of Rita Marieâs photos. âThe Ritz Marie portfolio does a great job of illustrating how a photographer can create a distinct aesthetic by marrying his/her work to a certain stylistic trope and still manage to create images that are diverse and fresh,â writer Jordan Sowunmi also commented.
The award-winning photographer gamely responded to my barrage of questions about working as a photographer, film vs. digital photography and her life.
On deciding to become a photographer and whether it has always been her dream:
âItâs interesting that my childhood friends saw me becoming a photographer. Because growing up, I always carried a camera in my bag â ready for whatever moment there was to capture. I did not realize I could work as a photographer until I moved to study in Toronto. I was hired to become the university photographer and could not get over the fact that I was being paid to do something I really enjoyed. Iâm not saying it is easy, but for me, the work felt worthwhile.
When one dreams, might as well dream big. Being a photographer is one of my dreams but not necessarily the only thing I see myself doing.â
On what training and experience aspiring photographers need:
âTo become a photographer, there needs to be some sort of training. I think the question of having to be formally trained for x number of years in a university depends on the person. But I believe the most important training ground necessary would be to experience a multitude of events because each photo shoot is pretty much unpredictable, as with life. You need to be confident in your skills to nail the right shot when everything is flowing in perfect sync with each other.
[With regard to] being a photographer, there sometimes is this notion that itâs all about the shoots. But there is a lot of work that happens before and after taking the photos.â
On the three photographers she admires most and how they have influenced her work:
âIf I had to just choose right now, in fashion/portrait photography, they would be Mario Testino, Patrick Demarchelier and Nicoline Patricia Malina, but there is also Camilla Akrans! I love the aesthetic of their photographs, but what I admire most is that they are able to get something out of their subject that no one has seen before, even if their subjects are highly photographed. They know how to direct their subjects to make them feel beautiful and comfortable, which shows in their work.
I also appreciate the work their team does to create the environment for their self-expression to flourish. Because it takes a team to get to where they are now. In this industry, no man is an island.
But aside from them, I admire many other photographers. The similarity in all their work is that they capture the souls in the people, places, events and even objects around them.â
â⊠I see talent coming from every country in the world because the content is so available to us now via the Internet. My guess is that everyone should just step up his or her game now, myself included.â â Rita Marie
On what a typical photo shoot for her is like:
âBefore the shoot, the client or creative director will brief you about the project. Then, closer to the day of the shoot, I have to check my equipment, brief my assistant and study the âpegsâ they send (if any). On the day of the shoot, I just have to make sure I do not leave anything necessary behind. On location, I need to scout for the best places to shoot, build rapport with the team â models, makeup artists, hairstylists, stylists, creative director, client etc. I try to exude good energy because I noticed better results when everyone is on the same creative wavelength. Art just flows.â
On the most challenging shoot she has ever had and how she deals with conflicts with collaborators:
âHaving a shoot is challenging, so I try to make it as fun as possible for everyone involved. But the experience that comes to mind is when I had a shoot in a real, honest-to-goodness junkyard where they compress cars. It was hot, sticky, dirty, and we had a shack as a makeshift dressing room. But that was not the most challenging part. One model did not want to go under the sun, and the stylist got into this big argument with the jewelry designer, who was her friend. They started screaming at each other about something I cannot recall now. I had to mediate, and then the designer started screaming at me as well. Needless to say, I did not choose to work with those people again. My back was sunburned for two weeks following that shoot. But at this point, I choose to look back at it with humor and charge it to experience.â
On the film vs. digital debate:
âFilm will always have a special place in my heart. I have always loved Polaroids (because my grandpa used to take my photos with an SX-70), and I used to shoot with Lomo cameras. I use that mostly for personal photos. One thing on my bucket list is to learn to develop film from a darkroom.
Digital photography is a blessing. While learning to shoot, it was easier for me to see what I did right or wrong because of the short turnover time. The quality of digital is amazing, but sometimes you just donât want to see that deep into another personâs pores.
But I believe people should just use what works for them. Some like film over digital, and vice versa. Itâs their avenue of self-expression, and I would not choose to meddle with that.â
On whether Filipino photographers are getting the recognition that they deserve locally and internationally, and if not, what the industry needs to do:
âI donât know. But I see talent coming from every country in the world because the content is so available to us now via the Internet. My guess is that everyone should just step up his or her game now, myself included.â
On whom or what she would shoot, if she could shoot anyone or anything in the world, and why:
âI would photograph the people I love as we travel through beautiful places around the world. Because there are times I do not think they know how beautiful they are. I see it every time I lay eyes on them or even just think about shared memories. To have someone close to you realize their beauty through something you created is priceless.
But if you are asking about public figures, I would like to photograph wise and collaborative individuals I could learn from. People who are greatly talented, are confident with their beauty and exude great energy.â
On her favorite thing to do outside of photography:
âRead. When the mood strikes, I like to write.â
On the word that best describes her:
âEthereal. I have always loved that word.â
See more of Rita Marieâs work on her website and on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.
Chef Gus Sibayan has worked at some of the worldâs hippest restaurants, from DBGB Kitchen and Bar in New York to Cafe 1771 in Manila. Although he has always been a foodie, his path to the culinary profession was not straightforward. After studying business administration at the University of the Philippines Diliman, he worked the line at Chateau 1771 in Manila. Then, he left to give the business world another try, only to return to his true love â cooking.
Sibayanâs love for food can be traced to his childhood. As a surgeon, his father was very busy, but on the rare occasions that he was free, he spent quality time with his family through food. âWe would eat out at fancy restaurants or get some freshly boiled peanuts and corn from the humble roadside stall. When we werenât dining out, we would cook at home,â Sibayan said. Sometimes, on weekends, the family would travel to their vacation house in the province of Batangas, just over 100 kilometers south of Manila, where they would line fish and enjoy the dayâs catch, which included yellowfin tuna, mackerel and sardines.
I interviewed the busy chef about what life in the kitchen is really like and what it takes to succeed in the restaurant and catering industry.
On taking the leap from business to the culinary arts and where he trained for the latter:
âI took up business administration in college because I really didnât know what I wanted right off high school and that was the safest course. It does help now, though, with running a food business.
My first job after college was as a kitchen apprentice for this French restaurant in Ortigas called Chateau 1771. After six months, I left and pursued a desk job doing pricing and marketing for an international logistics/shipping company. I thought that it would be good to see if I was fit for a different industry, but food was always in my head. After six months, I resigned.
In 2005, I decided to take up formal culinary education in Singapore at this then newly opened school called At-Sunrice. At the same time, I trained in the different kitchens of The Ritz-Carlton, Millennia. This was an awesome time for me. I was exposed to different flavors and ingredients, and there was so much learning. I started off with peeling 60 kilos of potatoes at a time to learning how to do the line. But it wasnât just the cooking in the hotel that taught me about food. It was also Singapore as a hub of different cultures cooking their own food. Eating around the city-state was amazing! With a mixture of Chinese, Malay and Indian cultures reflected in Singaporeâs cuisine, I was introduced to an assault of bold flavors and spices. This opened my eyes and taste buds to the possibility of experiencing more of whatâs out there in the world. So, after two years in Singapore, the next stop for me was New York.
In New York, I worked at Bar Boulud as a line cook. It was tough. I thought of being the nice guy from the sunny islands of the Philippines. Wrong strategy! Though there were some nice guys in the kitchen, most were a bunch of douche bags hailing from New Jersey to Paris. ⊠The chef, on the other hand, was a different story. He was pretty rough on us. Day in and day out, you would hear from him obscenities you could only hear from the likes of âHellâs Kitchen.â It would be a âWhat the fuck are you doing?!â to a âAre you fucking stupid?!â Whatever it was, it always contained the F-word. This, combined with the 12 to 14 hours a day of working on your feet with just five minutes of a breather, could break anyone if you were weak. But I learned. I learned to toughen up. If you burn yourself badly, you slap a slice of cold tomato on it and continue working. Show any sign of weakness, and the wolves will come pouncing on you. I also learned to stand up for myself and just do everything better and faster.
In the second kitchen I worked at in New York called DBGB (wherein I was part of the opening team), it was all better. I was faster and more equipped to handle pressure. You just had to work hard and focus. The best part was, after the shift, thereâs always a cold pint of beer waiting at the corner dive bar to reward you for a job done well.
I learned so much from my stint in New York. In the kitchen, I learned to never compromise on food quality. There should be utmost respect and a whole lot of passion whenever you cook. Always taste your food and use all of your senses. Only when you are completely happy with whatâs on the plate should you serve it. And outside the kitchen, during my free time, I would eat. I wouldnât go shopping. In fact, the only items I really remember buying would be a double-lined jacket for the really cold winters and a longboard to help me get from my apartment to the subway and back. Most of my money was spent on food, wine and beer. There was so much food to explore in the different neighborhoods of the city. Ethnic and Asian food in Queens. Fancy restaurants and gyro carts in midtown Manhattan. Japanese and ramen on the L.E.S. Barbecue in the Bronx. Hipster joints in Brooklyn. And so much more!â
On life as a chef and what a typical day for him is like:
âAfter a year and a half in New York, I came back to Manila and helped open Cafe 1771 and Winebar 1771, a multi-concept, upscale casual dining restaurant in Ortigas. I was the sous chef and was in charge of conceptualizing menus, training staff, making sure the kitchen was tidy and clean and taking care of daily operations. It was hard opening a new restaurant. I spent anywhere from 12 to 16 hours a day at work for the first few weeks and subsisted on sugar-free energy drinks and cups and cups of coffee every day. This went on until I suffered from a bad case of hyperacidity and had to slow down. The beers after work and my irregular eating habit didnât help much as well.
My daily schedule for first few weeks:
Wake up at 7 a.m. and arrive at work by 8 a.m.
Check all stocks and stations.
Have one McDonaldâs Sausage-Egg McMuffin, one energy drink and one cup of coffee.
Prep for lunch service.
Do lunch service.
No lunch for me. Full from tasting bits and pieces of food during service. Have one more cup of coffee.
Do paperwork. Prep for dinner service.
Have one more energy drink. Maybe another cup of coffee.
Do dinner service.
Do paperwork.
Talk to staff.
Leave restaurant by 11 p.m.
Have a couple of beers and a burger or a couple of beers and then a bowl of instant Korean âramyeonâ at home.
Be in bed by 1 or 2 a.m.
Repeat.
âItâs not about glamour and celebrity chefs. It is all about the food. Cooking is a real job, and it is hard. You have to have real passion, and you have to love it completely.â â Gus Sibayan
The biggest challenge for me as a chef was how to instill that same passion I felt for food to my staff of 15. Everything had to be perfect and consistent. My biggest frustration was when a cook couldnât understand the importance of this. During the first few weeks, I was screaming in the kitchen like how it was back in the U.S. minus the cussing. It didnât work. I learned how to be more personal and hands on with the different individuals in the kitchen. I tried to see what motivated them individually and worked on this. Things improved a lot, and I was successful in training a couple of cooks to be leaders, but I was still a control freak and couldnât leave the kitchen until everything was over. This was the case until I broke my leg in a freak accident while playing basketball and was out of commission for a few weeks. I had no choice but to learn to trust my staff. It worked out pretty well.
The restaurant ran smoothly, and all I had to do was check through the phone once in a while. I learned that being a successful chef didnât only mean knowing how to cook well. It is also about managing people effectively. It is about knowing how to delegate and inspiring others to love what they do and express that in the food they create. It is about mentoring.
My daily schedule when the restaurant was running smoothly:
Wake up at 9 a.m.
Have breakfast.
Arrive at restaurant by 11 a.m. Have coffee.
Check on staff and stocks before lunch service.
Do lunch service.
Do paperwork (payroll, schedule, special menus, costing, appraisals etc.).
Have âmeriendaâ and a cup of coffee.
Meet with staff.
Prep for dinner service.
Make sure everything is OK before leaving.
Leave restaurant by 9:30 or 10 p.m.
Have a couple of beers and some dim sum.
Be in bed by 1 or 2 a.m.â
On his specialty and what drew him to it:
âI was trained in the French classical way and was exposed to Asian ingredients and techniques as well. My cooking isnât necessarily defined by one cuisine, nor should it be labeled as âfusion.â It is defined by food I enjoy. It is defined by my experiences as a Filipino growing up with Filipino food and also by my experience traveling and working around the globe. I love âslow food,â and I believe most of the time, simple is so much more. I like working with what is fresh and locally available (if possible), and I treat everything with love and care. I love food with soul and integrity. A simple butter-seared fish with lemon should be made with fresh whole fish bought from the wet market and filleted in the kitchen. It should be made with real butter and not margarine and squeezed with juice from a real lemon at its prime. A burger should use beef that is ground in oneâs own kitchen and should contain 20 percent fat. It is simply seasoned with rock salt and freshly ground pepper right before cooking to a perfect medium. âKare kareâ should use fresh oxtail and tripe and simmered for a few hours to tenderize the meat and release all that collagen that naturally thickens the broth, which also gives it a nice sheen. Only natural ingredients should be used to enhance that broth. Add ground roasted peanuts and toasted rice for texture, annatto seeds for that nice red hue and a nice organic fish sauce to give a hint of umami.
After four years of working for Cafe 1771, I decided to take a break. I needed inspiration and rest, so I traveled. I went to the U.S., backpacking from L.A. to S.F. and then to New York, Baltimore and New Orleans. I just ate as much as I could and just took things a notch slower. After three months of going around the U.S., I went back to the Philippines and traveled some more. This time, I went around the Philippines tasting the local flavors. Went hiking up in the north from Banaue to Kalinga. I dove in Palawan and enjoyed sunny Boracay.
Eventually, Iâm planning to put up my own place. Right now, Iâm doing freelance consulting for a startup restaurant and cooking for private parties on the side. Iâm still traveling on the side.â
On new chefsâ biggest mistake and what they need to succeed, apart from a passion for food and cooking:
âThe greatest mistake new chefs make right now is rushing into things. Take your time. Graduating from culinary school doesnât make you a chef automatically. One has to put in time and sweat to become a really good cook or chef. Learn the fundamentals and basics by heart. Peel kilos of potatoes and carrots. Practice your quenelles, and perfect your knife skills. Eat out, and discover whatâs out there. Study by reading and experiencing firsthand. Know how to determine what is good and what is not. Assess and reassess why youâre cooking in the first place. Itâs not about glamour and celebrity chefs. It is all about the food. Cooking is a real job, and it is hard. You have to have real passion, and you have to love it completely. Donât overcomplicate food. Keep it simple. Cook with soul and integrity. If not, go do something else.â
