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♥️💚🖤

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Eye looks from L’officielle feb 26

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#msjuicy

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grace jones & the chambers brothers photographed by anthony barboza, 1971

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Acne Studios

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im also seriously obsessed with Bity Bora.

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Klymaxx

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Peaches and Herb, "Worth The Wait " - 1980

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Abosolutely obseesed with anteprima's ss26 presentation, but where can you buy all of the clothes?

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Next up, Gaultier's FW 1996. I absolutely love this collection. I am a big knits person, and i love the knits in this one. Absolutely delicious.

This collection was titled The Ball and The Cube. Again with the dichotomies, lol. While taking a quick glance at the collection, and wondering why it would be titled the ball and the cube, i did see the tension and conversation between flowing silhouettes, and more constriction and square/angular ones. Spheres, and cubes are also two of the most basic shapes that we use, experience, and interact with in the 3D. They are also shapes that are essential for creating and bringing anything into the 3D/"real" life.

I love the ball/chain play with the clothing literally having chains either made with balls or that have balls on the ends.

One of my favorite looks, an absolutely delicious mohair hooded sweater dress, paired with pointy latex red shoes, and a chunky, sphere, silver chain, so gorgeous, like a literal silver scarf! like wearing chunks of silver. Ofc, a red eye moment, on the absolutely gorgeous Gin Clarke.

Laura Bird in the connonical swirl/ orb fringed tunic, with the hooded mohair poncho, I absolutely live! omg.

To me this collection talks about going back to the foundations. The sphere and the cube are foundational arts principles. I see foundations in the silhouettes. They are made to be very interesting visually, and to me it looks like an exaggeration of a simple shape.

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Gorgeous photos. A few of my other favorite looks from this collection, SS96, womenswear to be exact. I think Gaultier's use of different culture aesthetics is quite evident in the construction and styling of these looks.

Lots of ornamentation here, which plays on again subaltern aesthetics. Dreadlocks, Waistbeads, Neckwear with large figurative medallions, beaded head and face ornamentation. The Trompe l'œil used to, to me mirror some kind of "new" skin, but also call upon the "trippyness" that is the future and our existence.

Gaultier's use of the subaltern is interesting, and obviously is up for critique. Some aspects of the subaltern are extremely blatant, such as the beaded facial ornamentation directly referencing the Maasai tribe and peoples of Kenya. As I mentioned before, Gaultier has an active imagination that references persona. Persona and fantasy are also present, and when real people and cultures are brought into a stage like scenario, that presents aspects of the culture as fantasy, which could be said about the blatant taking specific aesthetics and placing it in this fantastical but real context. This is problematic.

I think this referencing is so interesting especially with the general collection notes, being that one of the main thematic ideas was to mix 1960s hippie aesthetics with Futurama. The late 1960's was notorious for western subcultures adopting "eastern" aesthetics, as a means of escapism, or as a means of connecting more to self, which was super new age. I think hippies also really were using aesthetics to situate themselves in a new spacial and temporal space as a means to reject the things about the present that they didnt like. That was also happening in the 90s, this was also happening in this collection.

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Ok so moving on, to SS96, titled "Cyberbaba". In his previous collection we noticed Gualtier's comments on the inevitability of the future, which was marked by his references to the technological, and material relating to the technical. I see this exemplified with the red and creme two piece pant and top, gradiating with a the most ideal male form. This was also evident on the long sleeve top with another male form coming in and out of focus.

I chose these photos to start because I wanted to really overall talk about the tailoring in this collection, because theres a whole other side of this collection that looks completely different. And something I noticed from the previous collection is an introduction of dichotmies, which seems to be a major theme of Gaultier's work thus far.

I will argue that this kind of tailoring, especially within this collection presents a dichotomy between the past and present. He presents this classic tailoring, alongside more experimental silhouettes, blatantly inspired by subaltern aesthetics.

The hats in this collection are absolutely exquisite! Absolutely exquisite. They actually remind me of carcasses, or some kind of taxidermied large animal head. I see antlers. Think a carcass hat, paired with classic silhouette of a suit, also mixed with the prints, theres so much juxtaposition that calls into the now, and the past.

I think that when we see clothing, and when we are watching runway shows, and referencing art, we will always think and call into question the past when it comes to our creation and especially within fashion, time will always be called into question through the construction and design.

One thing I absolutely love about Gaultier is his makeup so far! I love all of the eye looks, he lovess an eye look. On these theres also a minimal accessories, besides headwear. These models arent really wearing jewelry except Evangelista, which makes sense because Evangelista's look is very much so a persona that would be heavily accessorized. It just makes sense.

The Pinstripe Suit with the Corset Halter! OMG. One of my favorite looks of this collection. A Pinstripe suit is literally so classic, so fifties, so cinematic! and here we see it, skintight, high-waisted, keyholed, and in lycra. This model is absolutely perfect for this look, the cigar prop, even her simple ponytail, with a side part and delicate crown braid. All of the elements of the look call into question a persona that is being challenged, though its all so playful.

The look that appears at the top of the photo sequence is one of my favorites. I love this eye makeup, the stark orange against the corseted, blue plaid dress. This dress is very 1940's remix with the silhouette, and i even see 40's influences in some of the tailoring. I cant get over the hat with this dress either. Absolute perfection. The hats are like very abstract takes on cowboy hats.

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To continue on, I believe in my last post I was talking about the shimmering, attractive nature of the future and technological advancement, theres a continued kind of authority that shows itself in the clothing. This really comes through with the styling, and the modelling. JPG is great at creating persona through his work, potential people, an aspiration towards existence. He makes character shine through. I think this is why I like him. I really like that he plays into the person and the archetype, and that is something I think about when dressing. I perceive myself as an agent in choosing how to dress and wear what i wear, even in the most mundane circumstances. And i'm not even saying that I dress particularly well, I am saying that this is what I think about when i'm getting dressed.

I really love all of the glove details, all of the hands of the models have some kind of ornate detail, nothing left unadorned.

The jade scuba gloves are like frankenstein! am I human or am I computer.

(Just some thoughts on these photos. )