juliejacobsfacetooface

I'm a Makeup-artist with twenty-one years experience working in the fashion industry. I hope my 'face too face' beauty blog will encourage you to “know your face, to wear your makeup, to look your best!”

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±‘Vintage Classics’ Masterclass 

±(DREAMGIRLS inspired)

§I'm pleased to announce that I will be presenting another Make-up Masterclass at The Session School on 11th June.  If you missed my first one; here's another chance to watch me work up close and personal.

Inspired by the retro make-up of the 1960's and 70's,  I created the makeup look for DREAMGIRLS -  London’s hugely successful musical.  Come and learn how make-up evolved throughout the two decades; discover the techniques used for the 60’s wholesome girl group, to the super glamorous disco diva’s of the 70’s and how I adapted them for this dazzling West End production.  Book early to save disappointment.

Sunday 11th June 2017 11am

£40 per session

20% discount for facetooface subscribers* 20% off 2nd ticket and each one booked there after**

To book or further enquiries email 

Julie at [email protected]

*  subscriber to Julie’s blog face too face for discount code received in her mail outs 

**discount applies when all tickets are booked in one transaction

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±‘The Future Classic’ Masterclass

^Spring/summer 2017 Trends

On Sunday 19th February I presented my make-up masterclass; ‘The Future Classic’ at The Session School.  This was an opportunity to watch me work up close and personal.  I created looks inspired from the spring/summer 2017 runway and demonstrated how they can be adapted for shoots, clients or ourselves. 

The looks I featured were Metallic liner; 80′s glamour and Glitter.  I chose these three because in one form or another; they have crossed over the last few seasons and for that reason I wonder if they will become ‘future classics’.   Make-up Artists don’t confer with each other to set trends, they just kind’a happen.  As the Chief Artist for designers at London Fashion Week I created the make-up that complimented and completed the designers vision for their models.  The beauty editors who attend most shows then write about what they predict what will be in ‘Vogue’ the next season.

I once believed trends specifically designed for the catwalk belonged only on the catwalk but I changed my mind a few years ago when I worked on a fashion shoot aimed to show women how to adapt and wear the seasons trends for their body shape. That made me think the same theory could be applied to make-up, so in this masterclass I demonstrated how you could tweak a trend to suit you as an individual.

As you will see in the following posts I had three great volunteers.  On Joelle, I used MAC mixing mediums to turn my favourite loose metallic powders into liquid eyeliners — this is the most editorial look of the three.  Anna wore red blusher in an 80’s style; high on the cheek with a little brush on the temple and matching lips.  Finally, glitter has followed on over a few seasons now so I wonder will glitter lips be ‘The Future Classic’?  Blossom was perfect for this demo, with not just one colour but five, yes five!

§Keep scrolling to see all three looks and hopefully I’ll see you at my next Masterclass?

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±The Future Classics Masterclass

^Metallics with Joelle

Moisturiser:                   Sukin Hydrating Day Cream Toner:                            Sukin Hydrating Mist Toner lip care:                         Sisley Nutritive Lip Balm Eye cream:                    Triolgy eye contour cream Foundation:                   YSL Teint Touche E´chat Foundation - BD50  & BD70 Colour corrector:           Illamasqua Skin base Mixer - Terracotta Highlighter:                    NARS Illuminator - Hot Sand (A tiny amount mixed into     the foundation) Concealer:                     NARS Soft Matte Complete Concealer - Caramel Contour:                        Cover fx total Contour Kit G-Light medium - G70 Blusher:                         Bobbi Brown Lips and Cheeks - no.28 Highlighter:                    Cover fx total Contour Kit G-Light medium - Star light Mascara:                        Sisley So Intense - Black Eyeliner:                         Illamasqua Gel Liner - Infinity                                        Bellá Pierre - Chanpayne                                        MAC Pigment - Old Gold                          Lipstick:                         Burt’s Bees Lipstick - no.502

§Scroll down to see 80′s Glamour with  Anna

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±The Future Classics Masterclass

^80′s (and a little bit of glitter) with Anna

Moisturiser:                    Sukin Hydrating Day Cream Toner:                             Hydrating Mist Toner lip care:                          Sisley Nutritive Lip Balm Eye cream:                    Trilogy eye contour cream Lipstick:                         Burt’s Bees Lipstick - no.511                        Primer:                           Bobbi Brown Illuminating Moisture Balm

Foundation:                   Bare Minerals Tinted Hydrating Gel - Ginger                                   

                                      & Cover FX Total Cover Cream Foundation - G30

Concealer:                    Armani Master Corrector - 02 Blusher:                        NARS Matte Multi - Siam                                      & Chanel Coco Code Blush Harmony Mascara:                       MAC Upward Lash                                      & Givenchy Waterproof Phenomen’Eyes Eye Brows:                    Benefit Goof Proof Brow Pencil - no.6                                              & Mac Lipstick - Lady Danger matte Glitter:                            Glitter Lips - Coral Reef

§Continue to see my approach to glitter lips with Blossom below.

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±The Future Classics Masterclass

^Metallic & Glitter with Blossom

Moisturiser:                    Sukin Hydrating Day Cream Toner:                             Hydrating Mist Toner lip care:                          Sisley Nutritive Lip Balm Eye cream:                     Trilogy eye contour cream   Foundation:                   Cover FX Natural Finish Oil Free Foundation - P110 & P125 Powder:                         Ben Nye Translucent - Sienna Contour:                        Cover FX Total Contour Kit - N-Deep N120 Highlighter:                    Cover FX Total Contour Kit - N-Deep  Mascara:                       Givenchy Phenomen’Eyes - Extreme Black Eye Brows:                    Benefit Ka Brow - no.5 Lip Liner:                        MAC - Coffee                             Lipstick:                         NARS Velvet Lip Glide - Area                                      & MAC Lip Mix - Black Glitter:                           Glitter Lips - Ruby Slippers & Coco Loco & Purple Reign  

                                     & Dark Disorder & 3D Gold

§And one last scroll down to see my skin preparation products and MAC Mixing Mediums.

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^What colour?  Pink, Yellow, Neutral

§Part 4 ...Neutral undertones.

I’m going to focus on Neutral undertones in my fourth and final post of What colour? P Y N.   If you missed the previous articles have a quick read here.  (All the brilliant pictures for this post are from the wonderful website Humanae by Artist Angélica Dass, she has used the colour chart of Pantone to match her models pigmentation and applied it as the back drop for each photograph.)

Honestly, I don’t know how much I can say about Neutral complexions? It simply is...Neutral.  Neutral undertones lack the warmth of a Yellow or the rose of a Pink.  Take a good look at the portraits and hopefully you’ll see what I mean.  In the central column, the second from the top and bottom are Pink and Yellow respectively.  A Neutral complexion can often look a little sallow or flat and because of this they are often presumed to be a Yellow tone.  If you're not sure, test a yellow foundation on your cheek and you’ll soon see, the colour of the foundation will pop out.  I often tell my students; if they’re finding it hard to judge the base colour of their models complexion because it shows no characteristics of Pink or Yellow, then think Neutral.  As I have said many a time “this is not an exact science”. 

Buying a new foundation can be daunting but if you are able to identify your undertone it will simplify the process.  Cosmetic companies have broadened their foundation collections and these are a few of my trusted ‘go to’ brands that I feel comfortable sending a client after a private make-up lesson to.  I know there will be a wide range of shades in a variety of undertones, for different skin types.  Cover FX, MAC, Bobbi Brown, YSL, Giorgio Armani, NARS, Lancome, Bare Minerals, Laura Mercier, Illamasqua, Tom Ford, Urban Decay, all these brands have a minimum of fifteen shades, but most have between sixteen and twenty-four.  You may never find your exact colour but the wider the range the more likely you’ll be able to mix two together to achieve a closer match.  

Whether personally or professionally I hope this series of posts,  'What colour?’ P Y N has given you an insight to my approach at understanding skin colour.  I admit, it can be mind-boggling because as I have said before we in the industry use different terminologies and may divide skin pigment into two, three or more categories, so it can be confusing for everyone.  However, the Humanae website has helped me show you to simply look at the skin colour in front of you and not the person.  This may sound like an odd thing to say but if we look at the person instead of studying the pigment of the skin we will end up prejudging what category they are...then that’s where it all starts to go wrong!

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±What colour?  P Y N 

§Part 3...Yellow Undertones

Following on from my previous posts, What colour? P Y N, - if you missed them have a quick read of part 1 and Part 2 -  Im going to focus on Yellow Undertones this week.  (All the brilliant pictures for this post are from the wonderful website Humanae by Artist Angélica Dass, she has used the colour chart of Pantone to match her models pigmentation and applied it as the back drop for each photograph).

Warm, Gold, Tan, Honey, Olive, Caramel and Peach are a few terms used to describe a yellow complexion.  Yellow undertones have such a wide variation  that sometimes I think this category could be divided again.  It ranges from Olive through to Golden.  Take a moment and have a good look at all the portraits, especially the top row and note the difference in warmth between them.  

All complexions vary in shade around the face; neck and décolletage but I think the difference is more noticeable in the yellow family, mainly between the forehead, cheeks nose and jaw area; sometimes there is up to three shades difference especially the darker the complexion.  So when choosing a foundation it can be confusing which shade to match.  That is why I nearly always use two shades, one to match the darkest area and one that matches the lighter areas, where the two shades meet I softly blend so they seamlessly  fade into one another, I also find I mix more colours together for this category.  (Keep an eye out for future posts on how I approach applying foundation).  

If you are more on the Olive side of this group a foundation that matches can leave you looking sallow (for a better understanding of sallow, read here - WARNING it does not make for pleasant read), so in situations like this I apply a colour corrector likeWARNING it does not make for pleasant read), so in situations like this I apply colour correctors like Givenchy Acti’Mine  ; Cover FX Face & Eye Primer; Smash Box Photo finish Primer or MAC Prep + Prime CC Correcting then the matching foundation on top, it just adds warmth and brings life to the skin...I know this from personal experience because I’m a Yellow/Olive undertone and during the winter months I can look sallow  to the point where I’m often asked If I’m feeling well; so I use a foundation that is a little warm like the Bareminerals Bareskin Pure Brightening Serum Foundation.  I find this a tiny bit ( and I mean a tiny bit)  on the caramel side, so no more sallowness!  In sunnier weather my complexion not only darkens but my under colour  becomes deeper and richer, warm like the colour of a fresh chestnut.  :-)

|I’ve thrown in a Pink and Neutral portrait can you spot them? 

§Next week I will focus on Neutral undertones...

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±What colour?  P Y N

§PART 2…Pink undertones

Following on from my previous post, What colour? P Y N, (incase you missed it, it might be a good ides to have a quick read) I’m going to focus on Pink Undertones this week.  

(All the brilliant pictures for this post are from the wonderful website Humanae by Artist Angélica Dass, she has used the colour chart of Pantone to match her models pigmentation and applied it as the back drop for each photograph).

Cool, rose, rosy, beige and porcelain are a few terms generally used when referring to pink undertones or foundations.  We can have misconceptions when assessing skin colour, Pinks for example conjures up an image of the English Rose complexion; very fair with rosy cheeks.  Just because someone is fair it does not mean they are a pink undertone, like wise, if there is any form of redness in the skin it’s often mistaken as a pink complexion too.  The portraits here; blow that presumption straight out of the water.   MAC and Cover fx have darker pink than yellow shades in their Studio Fix Fluid and Natural Finish Foundations respectively.  

Here are a few statements I’d like you to remember when next assessing your own or your models skin colour ...“If your flushed because you’ve just been for a jog; it does not mean you are a pink tone, if your red because you’ve just had a glass (or two) of wine; it does not mean you are a pink tone, if you're blushing because someone just paid you a compliment; it does not mean you are a pink tone and finally and most obviously,  if you ‘are’ pink because you’ve over stayed your welcome in the sun, yes you’ve guessed it, it does not mean you are a pink tone”…do you get where I’m coming from?  A Pink complexion has an overall and constant presence and does not come and go depending on the environment or circumstance.  Please remember this when next choosing a foundation.

Take a good look at the Humanae images and see the variations of pinks from the lightest to darkest; richest to coolest.

|Also, can you spot the odd two out? Yellow and Neutral are in there somewhere.

§Next week the spotlight will be on Yellow undertones...

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±What colour?  P Y N

§PART 1

First things first, all the brilliant pictures for this post are from the wonderful website Humanae by Artist Angélica Dass.  I urge you to go visit her site!  For many reasons I was blown away when I first came across it, each portrait ceases to fascinate me. Angélica Dass has used the colour chart of Pantone to match her models pigmentation and applied it as the back drop for each photograph.  Pantone is a standardised colour matching system, each colour is represented by letters and numbers (code) so they can be recreated in any format, for use in media and design - you know those bright coloured mugs and socks with letters and numbers (code), well that’s the Pantone colour system.  Determining someones tone is not an exact science  but hopefully I can use less words because of the ‘God send’ of these humanae images.

As you may have read in my previous ‘face too face’ posts I describe my models complexion as either Pink; Yellow or Neutral.  You may have heard of these terms before but if not; you may be thinking, “what is she on about?”  In the beauty industry from Make-up Artists to cosmetic companies alike we all divide complexions into less or more categories, also a lot of us use different words to describe the base colour of foundations, it’s a minefield out there...one wrong step and it could be disaster!  Maybe you’ve been there? I definitely have.      

So, when I look at my models to assess which colour foundation to use I have to decide what their under-colour is; then, how light or dark they are. With out contradicting myself and running the risk of confusing you I’m going to add that I don’t think there is a person who is ‘actually’ pink or yellow or neutral but for me; these adjectives are a good starting point in choosing the correct foundation.

We are all individuals, and to my knowledge no company has made enough foundations to match the worlds population and though that may be an impossible and expensive task, some are giving it a good go by really broadening their range, Cover FX; MAC; YSL; Lancome; NARS; IMAN; Laura Mercier to name but a few.

Over the next few weeks I’m going to attempt to explain how Pink; Yellow; Neutral help me - and hopefully will assist you - when selecting a foundation.  For this week I’d like you to have a good look at all the pictures and their background colour and see if you agree with my categorisations.  In danger of sounding like a broken record...Determining someones tone is not an exact science.

§Coming up next week I will focus on Pink undertones...

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±‘Fabulous Friday!’ 

§‘Fabulous Fridays’ are about the products I love to use regularly, professionally or personally.

±L’OCCITANE Shea Light Comforting Cream

I was impressed with my L’OCCITANE Shea Light Comforting Cream because I found it a really good transitional moisturiser which has taken me through two seasons.  With spring officially here my skin always gets a little confused, one day the suns out and its warm and happy the very next day the temperature is near freezing and my skin tightens up, it doesn’t know what to do in this schizophrenic weather!

I’m a mature normal skin type that produces ‘good oil’ and I wasn’t sure if this would feel too heavy but with it being the ‘light’ version of the L’OCCITANE Shea Ultra Rich Comforting Cream (5% Shea butter as opposed to the normal 25% ) it is hydrating enough for warmer weather.  I was in the Caribbean during December and this moisturiser saw me through just fine.  The hydration of my skin was maintained without the surface feeling greasy.  On the opposite side of the temperature scale; during the winter it felt protective and nourishing enough - remember in the winter we also have indoor heating to contend with, central heating is very dehydrating - particularly on bitter colder days, on really cold days I ‘get layered!’.  L’OCCITANE Shea Face Comforting Oil is  a good one to layer up with, it absorbs nicely so your still not left feeling tacky with the Shea Light Comforting Cream on top.

So if you find yourself half way through a season and need a new moisturiser this L’OCCITANE Shea Light Comforting Cream could be a good transitional moisturiser for you!

Because

Nourishing and hydrating enough for my mature normal skin types.

Does not feel greasy or tacky in hot weather even though I still produce ‘good oil’.

A balanced moisturiser that can take you through the change of seasons.

L'OCCITANE discovered that the shea butter produced in Burkina Faso using traditional methods is particularly rich in omega 6 and karitene which helps to moisturize, nourish and give extra protection to the skin.

I like L’OCCITANE’S company ethics, check them out. 

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±Genevieve/Gene. Mix it up!

Genevieve is under twenty-six years of age; a pre-registration Pharmacist, so at the moment her days consist of work; study; sleep, work; study; sleep...and repeat!  Gene has a  healthy balanced diet and fits in an exercise routine of going to the gym before she goes to work.   Gene loves make-up and is not afraid to try new colours or looks.  For today’s ‘face too face’ we focused on her every day look with less foundation coverage.

§Skin Type

Oily and slightly dehydrated with a few blemishes and pimples.

§Any skin concerns

Darkness under her eye area and dark scaring from pimples.

§Complexion/under-colour

Deep warm Yellow.  Gene really varies in shade on her face; neck; arms and chest.  In some areas there is up to three shades difference.

§Keep scrolling to see and read Gene complete 'face too face' experience!

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^Can you spot the difference?

^Skincare Routine

§Morning

cleanser — Skin Cleansing Brush with Body Shop Tea Tree face wash toner - Rose Water moisturiser - Simple face moisturiser

§Night          

cleanser — Skin Cleansing Brush with Body Shop Tea Tree face wash toner - Rose Water moisturiser - Simple face moisturiser

§Weekly

Nudge Facial Scrub; 7th Heaven Blemish Mud mask and a facial steam twice a week.  Gene also wipes her face (avoiding her eye area) with undiluted lemon juice. She does this twice a week to help heal and fade her old dark acne marks.  There are mixed opinions as to weather lemon juice directly on the skin is good for it. Lemon juice is acidic with a very low pH balance of 2 - 3, it will affect the skins precious Acid mantle - this could explain the dehydration to her skin - so I would be very cautious about applying it all over.  The citric acid over time can act as a peel but Gene is already using a cleansing brush and is exfoliating twice a week. 

If the aim is to fade the scarring then Gene should apply a drop directly onto the scars and the scars only.  

§Keep Scrolling...

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^ Before, after and naked!

The more I write Gene’s ‘face too face’ the more I find myself leaning towards  writing about her complexion and foundation coverage; so I’ve split Genevieve's pictures into before, after and naked!  I love the beauty of her rich dark colouring - which is her dominant shade - and it is the true darkness of Genes tone I aimed to bring out.  

I want you to see the varying shades of her complexion.  Her chest reveals the warmth I’ve mentioned when describing her colour, it is however around three shades lighter than her face; which also varies from her nose to forehead and cheeks, also her arms are as dark as the outer sides of her face.  Which area to match when choosing a foundation can be confusing, the darkest or the lightest?  I would recommend two foundations, one for the lightest and one for the darkest areas.  Match them as close as possible, it may not be a perfect match, it hardly ever is but you can then mix the two to achieve all the different shades in between. 

When working on professional photo shoots I always have a minimum of three tones on the back of my hand, mixing various quantities as I work my way around the face.  For personal use on a daily basis I understand that  three is too much hassle but when aiming for medium to full coverage I nearly always recommend using two shades following your natural pattern of light and dark.  

§Keep scrolling…

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^Before ‘face too face’

§SKIN

foundation - Sleek Be Beautiful Blemish Balm - Dark powder - MAC Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation - NW50 This is a powder foundation and gives full coverage.  Gene would like to wear less coverage in the day. blusher - MAC Powder Blush - Amber Rose A strong colour which has a nice warmth so great for dark complexions. 

§EYES

eyeliner - Collection Fast Stroke Eyeliner - Black

mascara - Benefit They’re Real! — black  

§BROWS

brow pencil - Rimmel - Dark Brown If you have black hair you can be forgiven for thinking black brow pencils are what you should use.  Dark brown works really well, it is not as harsh as black.

§LIPS

lipstick - Avon Lipstick - Matte Crimson (no longer in stock) lipgloss - Not shown

§Keep scrolling…

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^After ‘face too face’

§SKIN

moisturiser - Bioderma moisturising concentrate’s texture is very light and absorbing and works well on Gene’s skin type, hydrating; nourishing without leaving a tacky residue.

foundation - COVER FX Water Based Foundation - B65 ( B65 is no longer in production. COVER FX Natural Finish - N120 is it’s replacement)  PLUS  IMAN Luxury Radiant Liquid Foundation - Earth 3.  

The darkness of B65 is very good for Gene, although if I had used it all over the finish would of looked a little flat but the Earth 3 adds the warmth of her under colour.  I mixed the two in varying measures as I worked my way around her face, neck and chest, which then added dimension.  Also, as these are creams Gene’s skin looks radiant and fresh, more so than when wearing a powder foundation.  Powders can portray a sense of maturity/seriousness...remember she is under twenty-six.

powder - MAC Studio Careblend/pressed powder - medium deep

blusher - MAC Powder Blush - Ambling Rose (as before )

§EYES

eyeliner - Collection Fast Stroke Eyeliner - Black (as before )

mascara - Benefit They’re Real! — black  (as before )

§BROWS

brow pencil - Rimmel - Dark Brown (as before )

§LIPS

lipstick - Avon Lipstick (as before ) - Matte Crimson ( no longer in stock) a similar alternative is  Ultra Colour Bold Lipstick - Power Plum. lipgloss - Not shown

§Keep scrolling…

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^ ‘eye too eye’

If you're going to wear liquid eyeliner; make it work!  Gene has the perfect eye shape for a flick/tick liner so all I did was lift the tail end upwards before reaching the outer corner of her eye and because her blusher has a shimmer in it, I brushed a tiny bit on her brow bone.  I filled in her brows and ‘curved’ the arch so the angle was not as sharp as before.

^‘get lippy’

This lipstick has light reflecting particles and Gene is also wearing a gloss on top.  I placed a little gloss only on the centre of Gene’s lips. Remember any form of shine emphasises a feature so think, do you need it...and where?  Gene’s application is a little messy, precision is the name of the game when wearing a dark lipstick.  

§Keep scrolling…

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^…and finally

As I said the more I was writing Genevieve's ‘face too face’ the more I wanted to write about her complexion.  I love her rich dark colouring and it is an aspect I wanted to bring out for this post.  Her lighter powder foundation is unforgiving in daylight — mind you daylight is always unforgiving — and could look a little ‘ashy’.  Mixing the IMAN Earth 3 with the Cover FX B65 is a great combination of deep dark and warmth for her varying shades.  The fact that they are liquids help her look more fresh, not so serious/mature as when wearing powder foundation. 

Keep up the skincare and exercise routine in your busy work; study life.

Stop using neat lemon juice and I think e all over your face, it disturbs the skins precious acid mantle.

‘A scar; is a scar; is a scar...they are called ‘scars’ for a reason’.  Deep facial peels may get rid of them but  that’s a different ball game and in Genes case I think that would be unnesasary.  However there are a few topical treatments that can improve their appearance.  

Being under twenty-six, her skins cellular reproduction is still at its peak.  If I were Gene I would continue exfoliating twice to three times a week.   

I recommend trying Sukin Certified Organic ROSE HIP OIL or Bio Oil (I’ve seen this work really well on dark acne marks).  Both are very effective for cellular renewal and  promote a healthy looking skin.

When matching your foundation always study the under-colour of your décolletage too.  

For medium to full coverage I recommend two foundations, one to match the lightest and one for the darkest areas, you can mix the two together to achieve all the differing shades in between.  

The science bit

|Lemon juice is antibacterial; anti-fungal; rich in Vitamin C; contains alpha hydroxy acids (acts as a gentle skin peel) and an antioxidant.  I really do shudder at the thought of applying it neat on the face.  The very fact that it has a low pH it will imbalance the skins precious acid mantle.  

However, there are many cases for and against so I’ll let you decide for yourself.

For:  The Health Site New Health Guide

Against:  Make-up Alley Xovain