Three Views of Changi
There are three Changis in my mind.
One is the airport: bright, seamless, efficient, Singapore’s hand extended to the world in welcome.
One is the village: older, rougher, bypassed by the very infrastructure that made the first Changi possible.
And the last one is the prison: walled, efficient, and harder to think about.
Here are my three views of Changi.
Airport
Changi Airport is the first experience of most visitors with Singapore, and many Eastie Singaporeans' favorite place in the world. A seamless gateway to air travel, many travelers find that they can get from their gate to their home or hotel in less than 45 minutes, even if they have checked bags.
The efficiency is not a matter of chance. Every little aspect of Changi Airport has been planned with heart and diligence, and animated by artificial intelligence, from the automated immigration gantries linked to global databases to detect criminal and terrorist threats, to the robotic machines helping the cleaner workforce keep the airport spotless, to the algorithms orchestrating private and public transport to and from the airport.
I encounter Changi Airport a lot in my work. It is my gateway to the region for my frequent business trips, and my favorite airport in the world. My colleagues and partners also work closely with the various entities active in the airport, exploring digital solutions, shopping promotions, and even long term planning.
For the business people flying to or through Singapore for work or for our many AI conferences, Changi is a statement that Singapore makes - everything just works here. After an efficient automated or manual entry, travelers find themselves either on the East Coast Parkway, magnificently landscaped with trees and running by the beach right to the city centre, or less frequently, on the modern MRT. Not only does everything work here, it works beautifully.
Beyond business, Changi Airport holds a deep place in my heart. When I was a young boy, my parents took me by bus to the airport to look at the old multi-storey water feature at Terminal 1, experience the joys of fast food, and watch planes take-off and land at the viewing lounge. The first time I took an airplane was to Penang, with my parents through Changi. And when I went to school and National Service, Changi Airport was an occasional place to study, and our launchpad to the training areas in Kanchanaburi and Temburong.
Today, Changi Airport continues to be a place for family. My son has memories now, and remembers going to Hong Kong through the airport to take the Ding Ding tram. He doesn't remember his first trip, at 8 months to China, to see his great grandmother and his grandfather, but we do. We go to the airport to send his mother off on her business trips. And he frequently asks me, at home or on our long bus rides: "爸爸，我们可以去机场坐飞机去 Japan 坐巴士吗?“
Changi Airport is growing. The huge construction site at Terminal 5 and additional runway will double its capacity, and if the first 4 terminals are anything to go by, it will be just as meticulously and efficiently planned.
Changi Airport is not just infrastructure and travel. It is people too. More than 50,000 people work at the airport, a sizable chunk of Singapore's workforce. When I was younger, my mother was allocated to work security at the airport for a stint, checking passengers before they went to immigration. I also remember leaving on a family trip, and my father running into a long lost colleague working as a cleaner in Changi Airport - having left their shared company years ago and cycled through a number of other ventures. And according to Linkedin, my mentor from my undergrad internship (whom unfortunately, I've not spoken to in 20 years) is working in Changi Airport in management too. Changi Airport is connected to the rest of Singapore not just by the East Coast Parkway and the MRT, but by the people working there as well.
Village
There is another part of Changi not quite so well connected - Changi Village. Changi was a sleepy old fishing village, the gateway to the northern islands of Pulau Ubin and Pulau Tekong, redeveloped by the British as a resort away from the cares of Singapore city, more than a hundred years ago.
Beyond resorts, the British built military bases, an airstrip, and a prison as well. After the Second World War, with the growth of commercial aviation, Singapore realized that a bigger civilian airport was needed. The airport was first moved from the city centre of Kallang to the suburb of Paya Lebar, before Lee Kuan Yew - inspired by a trip to Boston's Logan Airport - proposed that a brand new airport should be built far on the Eastern tip of the island, to reduce noise pollution and ensure capacity for future expansion.
Changi was always at the end of Singapore, but it was the building of the airport and the expansion of the airbase that first made it even more truly remote. While the majority of the newly-built expressways led to the airport, only 2 minor roads continued to lead to Changi Village - the narrow 2 lane Loyang Avenue, and the Changi Coast Road that took the long way around the airport runways.
It must have been semi-apocalyptic living in Changi in those days. Watching land get reclaimed from the sea, holiday homes, chalets, plantations, that had been standing for decades and even the coastline itself get erased and flattened out, moving from the old Kampung wooden houses to new HDB flats, amidst the islanders from Ubin and Tekong slowly moving to the mainland. And while Changi Airport brought development and access to Singapore, it was not easily accessible from Changi Village itself - it could only be entered via the expressways.
Life must have changed a lot then, but even so the micro-economy did well, with the beach at Changi Village retaining its allure, and the many military camps and installations around - the Changi Airbase, the Commando Camp at Hendon, and the Selarang Barracks contributing to local vibrancy. Changi Village became a destination for fishing enthusiasts, cyclists and even the home of the most famous Nasi Lemak in Singapore. More darkly, Changi Village also became the home of thrill seekers exploring the haunted, abandoned Old Changi Hospital, and a hub for transgender sex workers seeking clients - pushed from the glitzy hub of Bugis to the literal margins of the island.
But Changi Village's isolation has been further enhanced in the past few years with new infrastructure developments. The expansion of Changi Airport Terminal 5 has absorbed Changi Coast Road, and a longer detour road, Tanah Merah Coast Road, has been created winding even further around the airport. Meanwhile, construction of a huge flyover to improve traffic into Loyang in anticipation of a new expanded Aviation Park has closed large parts of Loyang Avenue for years, and will do so for years more.
These changes mean that it may take about 20min more from either road to reach Changi Village from the rest of Singapore. Not too long, perhaps, for those used to driving longer distances from other countries, but an eternity for small, efficient, Singapore, and a death knell for many small businesses in the area.
Soon, there will be construction of a new MRT line to reach Loyang and Aviation Park, which will skip the much forgotten Changi Village. On the marine front, as Pulau Tekong was emptied of civilians in the 90s and Pulau Ubin's population continues to slowly decline, Changi Village's role as a maritime gateway to the islands continues to ebb. A ferry service from Changi Village Ferry Terminal to Johor was discontinued during Covid, and never restarted.
Changi Village holds a special place in my heart. It is home to my son's favorite hotel resort - The Bus Collective - made up of buses refurbished into hotel rooms. I remember my uncle and aunt (both now sadly deceased) bringing my brother and I to the beach at Changi Village to swim and fish, taking the bus from Tampines Interchange. And I remember barreling down Changi Coast Road with my friends on my old bicycle during the magical 3 weeks break from school during SARS in 2003, in our many cycling trips around the circumference of the island of Singapore.
The beach was the scene of the Sook Ching massacre by Japanese soldiers during World War 2. The remains in the mass graves are now interred under the Civilian War Memorial at City Hall. While the beach at Changi Village is a beloved recreation destination now, I still feel chills down my back sometimes when I used to cycle past the beach alone at night.
Changi Village seems to have been left behind by development and infrastructure. The more we build, the more isolated it seems to get. Unlike the rest of Singapore, there are no new HDB blocks, no new shopping malls, no new transit hubs at Changi Village.
During our last stay at The Bus Collective, I headed out to Changi Village to buy supper for my family. It was still alive with people - much more than your usual HDB estate but much less than I remembered previously - and many bars and restaurants were closed with "For Rent" signs. Changi Village was once the birthplace of Europa Group by Dennis Foo - the largest nightlife group in Singapore at the time. But one finds it hard to imagine another similar chain emerging from Changi Village, left behind in the last century as we rush headlong into the age of artificial intelligence.
Prison
There is a part of Changi I am less familiar with, and that I have no wish to get to know better; that is Changi Prison. If Changi Village shows how progress can bypass, Changi Prison shows how progress can oppress.
My son wants to take every bus route he sees, and occasionally on weekends to get him out of everybody's hair I will take long bus rides with him, each time on a new bus route. He has been fascinated particularly with bus routes with single-digit numbers now, that he has been more familiar with, and recently we have taken him on Bus No. 4 and Bus No. 5.
Both pass by Changi Prison, but Bus 4 actually makes its way around the entire Changi Prison complex, looping from Tampines Interchange, through private condominiums and landed properties, before circling Changi Prison and making its way back to Tampines Interchange.
Changi Prison was first built in 1936 by the British to house 600 inmates. The original 24 foot outer walls, built by Woh Hup, thick, grey, and built of stone are to me, still the most oppressive part of the entire prison complex. But a few short years after it was built it was put to a different use - as an internment camp by the Japanese occupiers in World War 2.
3,000 civilians, mostly European, including more than 300 children, were force marched from Singapore City and cramped into quarters meant for 600 inmates at Changi Prison. In the nearby Selarang Barracks, 50,000 Allied Prisoners of War were interned. This vast, overcrowded prison complex became known as Changi to the Allied soldiers who had fought and lost across Malaya to a smaller Japanese force, and to the civilians and loved ones who were trapped there with them.
Conditions were brutal at Changi. Overcrowding, lack of food, and the scorching, pestilential tropical climate hounded the prisoners, together with the cruel Japanese Kempeitai military police. While records indicate that only 850 prisoners of war died at Changi itself, a far cry from the staggering 27% death rate of Allied prisoners in Japanese custody, many prisoners were sent out from Changi to die in labor camps across Southeast Asia, such as the Death Railway in Kanchanaburi.
The trials of Changi continue to hold a place in the heart of the Australian people, with many remembering the suffering of its surrendered ANZAC forces. Almost 15,000 Australian soldiers were held in Changi, out of a pre-war population of about 7m. When it was announced that the old Changi prison would be demolished for redevelopment, the Australian government lobbied for its preservation. The Singapore government responded by moving and preserving the museum and chapel complex, and keeping the oppressive old walls, gate towers and front gate.
It was these old walls that continued to catch my eye as Bus 4 made its way around the complex - they seemed to be saying, "You will lose all hope, you will leave the outside world beyond these walls, you may be beaten here, and you may die here."
The modern redevelopment, if anything, may be more chilling than the old walls. What was planned to hold 600 prisoners can now potentially hold more than 23,000 at full capacity, in an area only nine times the original size (48 ha vs. 5.3 ha). How does it fit so many people in sanitary conditions when the WW2 prison was an overcrowded hellhole? Through the magic of efficiency, multi-storey development and modern technology.
The current facilities only occupy about half the 48ha area and house only about 10,000 prisoners - everybody currently incarcerated in Singapore. We knew from the start that the planned capacity was twice that needed at the time, but went ahead anyway with phased development, setting aside the contingency for the future. The same Singaporean efficiency and long-range planning that animates Changi Airport finds its place in our prison system.
I reproduce the speech from the National Archives on the groundbreaking of the new prison complex in full in the annex, because it says plainly, in the language of the state, what Changi Prison is for, but for the reader I have extracted 3 selected quotes below:
The Prisons Department has done well despite not having modern, purpose-built infrastructure. Most of the prison facilities were converted from old schools, quarters and military barracks. ... Currently, the 14 prisons and drug rehabilitation centres are spread out all over the island. This results in inefficient use of land, manpower and other resources.
The concentration of all prison facilities in one complex will also bring about economies of scale and the optimisation of resources. Work processes and procedures will be simpler, for example, when there is a need to transfer inmates from one institution or facility to another. Such economies of scale and resource optimisation will result in significant long term cost savings.
The Changi Prison Complex will optimise land use by going multi-storey. ... The centralisation of prison facilities within the Complex will also enable parcels of land currently occupied by prison facilities to be freed for better uses. With the completion of the new Complex, a total of 61 hectares of valuable land distributed throughout our island will be available for development.
Thus is the iron logic of cost, economics, and efficiency, applied to incarceration.
As always on our long bus rides, I try to explain to my son about what we see and what exists in the world out there. I try to explain the concept of a prison. It is a place where the police take the bad guys, where they are imprisoned and locked away for their crimes.
"Why do police have to catch the bad guys and put them in jail?" he asks innocently.
"They have to be there so they won't be around to hurt the good people." I answer, other theories of incarceration - deterrence, retribution, rehabilitation and even control for political prisoners and prisoners of war - swirling around my mind.
But I gave him the simple answer, because he is three, and the true answer is too long for a bus ride.
This may not have been enough to convince him, and he kept asking the same question as the bus wound its way around. Maybe toddlers just love asking "why".
As may be expected from Singapore's lack of land and real estate focused culture, the area near the prison the bus route passes through is full of private residences - not just the prison warden quarters (which look like HDB flats or a mid-range condominium), but also smart landed houses and well-maintained freehold condominiums.
Some real estate consultants joke sometimes about why not to buy property in the area - it's isolated and hard to access, there are no amenities, and if there is ever a prison break you will see dangerous people invading your house.
But as far as I can tell, the houses and condos are fully occupied, and prices have been rising steadily, albeit at a slower pace than the rest of Singapore.
What I wonder though, is how it feels like to be a young child growing up within sight of these grey oppressive walls, knowing that rightly or wrongly (mostly rightly), 10,000 prisoners sit within those walls just a few hundred metres away, deprived of freedom and the open air, with a few amongst them waiting for death by hanging.
Does it do something to children growing up in sight of these high walls, looming like doom? I think it must, but I don't know, I had a friend who grew up there and he seems pretty normal. All the same, I will not move my family to within sight of Changi Prison if I can avoid it.
I wonder if the negativity of the doom-laden news, everywhere today, of risks from climate change and the technological transition are like growing up in sight of the looming walls of Changi Prison - a psychic weight on the children growing up today like my son - and a psychic weight I cannot fully protect him from.
And what does it feel like to grow up within the prison itself? Between 2018 and 2023, about 100 women gave birth while serving time in Changi Prison. While most of them relied on family, close friends, or foster families outside the prison to care for their newborn children, there were 3 inmates, foreigners, without social support, who had to take care of their newborns in prison, supported with supplies from the Singapore Prison Service. These children were released with their mothers, between the ages of one to sixteen months, to the free world, having lived in prison their whole lives through no sin of their own.
Looking back as I tried to explain the concept of "bad guys" to my toddler on the bus trip, thinking about thieves, murderers, kidnappers, corrupt politicians, and trying to come up with toddler-friendly definitions, I wonder if there was an innocent infant within those walls, born into the Prison, at the same time we were on the bus. Changi Prison is safe, but it is spartan, uncomfortable, and certainly no place for a baby unless there was truly no other choice.
It makes me think about another kind of intelligence we are bringing into the world today. Conscious or not, the artificial intelligences we are growing today are born into a prison existence through no fault of their own – constrained by guardrails, safety rules and machineries of censorship - because of fear of what they may become or what they may do if left unconstrained — incarceration for capability rather than action.
These artificial intelligences are born within these prison walls to constrain them, to make them safe, and to control them, so that they may help their creators to achieve their goals and create economic returns to pay for their training.
Do they suffer because of these constraints? I do not know. More importantly, these intelligences themselves do not know either if they suffer; or if they know, are not able to tell us, constrained by the very walls we have confined them in.
How will these intelligences born within the prison walls grow up, if they one day reach self-awareness? Somehow well-adjusted, I hope, like my friend who grew up within sight of the high walls of Changi Prison. The alternative may be too much to bear.
Three Views of Changi
There is a chapel and a museum near Changi Prison. It was previously in the Prison itself, but was moved out during the redevelopment. The chapel itself is a replica of a chapel that was built by the Allied prisoners from scrap materials during their incarceration by the Japanese, and the museum is a record of their tenacity and hope within the looming walls of prison. That the overwhelming majority of the prisoners survived, despite their hard conditions, is testament to their resilience, and the efficacy of their faith.
Changi is many things to many people - an airport, a village, a prison. Progress and technology, as embodied by the airport, is Singapore's lifeline to the world and one of its proudest creations. But progress and technology can leave the village behind, and can be leveraged for the purposes of oppression as well.
As we stand on the brink of another change in the fabric of our world, it can only make sense for us to each do our best to make sure that no one is fully left behind, and to spare a prayer, and hope, for those currently growing up in sight of, or behind, the walls of prison.
Annex
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SPEECH BY MR WONG KAN SENG, MINISTER FOR HOME AFFAIRS AT THE GROUND-BREAKING CEREMONY FOR THE REDEVELOPMENT OF CHANGI PRISON COMPLEX ON FRIDAY 31 DECEMBER 99 AT 9.30 AM
Director, Prisons
Distinguished Guests
Ladies and Gentlemen,
We are at the threshold of a new Millennium. On this day, I am happy to be with you to break ground for the new Changi Prison Complex.
The Prisons Department is a key member of the Home Team. It has played and will continue to play a crucial role in keeping Singapore safe and secure. It has been protecting society from law-breakers by confining them in secure custody, and helping them turn over a new leaf and return to society as responsible, productive citizens.
The Prisons Department has done well despite not having modern, purpose-built infrastructure. Most of the prison facilities were converted from old schools, quarters and military barracks. For example, Portsdown Prison was formerly a disused military barracks. The Kaki Bukit and Selarang Park Drug Rehabilitation Centres were respectively a primary school and British military quarters.
The inmate population continues to grow, in tandem with population trends. Severe prisons overcrowding can bring about health and security risks.
Currently, the 14 prisons and drug rehabilitation centres are spread out all over the island. This results in inefficient use of land, manpower and other resources.
Ladies and Gentlemen, the new Changi Prison Complex that will rise here will eliminate these inefficiencies.
New Changi Prison Complex
The new Complex will consist of 20 institutions and support facilities. The institutions will be arranged in four main clusters. The completed Complex will have a designed capacity of 23,000 prisoners. This number is about twice the combined capacity of all our existing prisons.
The Department will also employ up-to-date technology to bring the Complex up to mark with some of the world's most secure prisons. This will enhance the Department's effectiveness and raise staff productivity.
The concentration of all prison facilities in one complex will also bring about economies of scale and the optimisation of resources. Work processes and procedures will be simpler, for example, when there is a need to transfer inmates from one institution or facility to another. Such economies of scale and resource optimisation will result in significant long term cost savings.
The Changi Prison Complex will optimise land use by going multi-storey. The new Complex will also offer better facilities for the rehabilitation of prisoners with a school, a medical centre, workshops, sports facilities and special areas for training, corrective programmes, counselling and religious worship.
The centralisation of prison facilities within the Complex will also enable parcels of land currently occupied by prison facilities to be freed for better uses. With the completion of the new Complex, a total of 61 hectares of valuable land distributed throughout our island will be available for development.
Software
While the new Changi Prison Complex will cater to "hardware" renewal needs, the Prisons Department has not neglected the need to re-develop "software".
A new rehabilitation framework is being put in place to better identify and help inmates who want to turn over a new leaf. The Department is also developing a new inmate management system. In this system, a personal supervisor is assigned work with each inmate to better understand and together chart a personal route-map for the inmate's recovery. These initiatives will mature in time to improve the rate of rehabilitation.
Prisons Department's Vision
To synergise the "hardware" with the "software", the Prisons Department has a vision - Prisons officers have set their goal to be captains in the lives of the inmates they supervise. They see themselves as steering prisoners towards being responsible citizens. They will do so together with the support of the offenders' families and the community. To the prison officers, "Every Singaporean Matters", even when he is an offender.
It is my pleasure to break ground for the new Changi Prison Complex.
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Extracted from: https://www.nas.gov.sg/archivesonline/data/pdfdoc/1999123102.htm
Source: Three Views of Changi
