@theartofmadeline
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"I'm Dorothy Gale from Kansas"
NASA
Love Begins
izzy's playlists!
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Jules of Nature
Aqua Utopia｜海の底で記憶を紡ぐ
Lint Roller? I Barely Know Her
will byers stan first human second
Game of Thrones Daily
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tumblr dot com
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Claire Keane
trying on a metaphor
tannertan36
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@kisstheartist
Some quick animation smear guides I put together for a friend! not sure if it works as a tutorial without my in person commentary, also more intended as a guide to show examples of basic/common smear types :O
…might make a tutorial on how to use smears another time…
Best trick I ever picked up. Seriously.
I have also learned this is great for [PICK A COOL NAME FOR A SHIP] and [LOOK UP THE FACTS ABOUT OXYGEN LEVELS] and [WHAT’S THE WORD] and [DOUBLECHECK CHARACTER’S EYE COLOR] and ALL KINDS OF THINGS.
Anything that isn’t critical in the moment, and could be filled in later while I’m currently trying to burn through writing pages that will be lost if I don’t get them out right now? Brackets.
This is seriously the best advice, and it really helps put it into perspective that the first draft is just that- a draft. There’s no reason to agonize over a particularly tricky bit of writing when you could just leave it in brackets and skip to the good parts, the parts you’ve visualized. I also use brackets for [fact-check this], [use a stronger verb], [is this in character?] and other notes as I write, just so I don’t forget what I want to work on when I go back and edit.
This works for academic writing too. If you know where you’re going just leave yourself notes to fill in later. I do this all the time,
Just in case you forget this exists.
It exists.
With those “when you want to design a character but you don’t know color theory” posts flying around I thought this would be relevant again.
SLAMs THE REBLOG BUTTON
there’s also Coolors website that gives you randomized palettes!
Don’t forget ColourLovers, either! It’s a social media-esque site where you can browse tons of palettes and share your own.
You can browse the most popular ones or search for certain colors, themes, and even specific hex codes!
When you find one you like, you can download a wallpaper swatch of it and also select the specific colors it uses to look at more palettes that use those same ones.
ColourLovers is my go-to for when I’m having trouble coming up with a color scheme! It’s also been around for over a decade, so there’s plenty to browse through.
Hoi!! I saw a little bit of the process on your Instagram, but could you explain how you go about making a pattern? I absolutely love how that neato cactus/desert one you did turned out!
Alrighty!
So to make a repeating pattern:
1. Open a canvas and draw in the center WITHOUT touching any of the edges.
2. [Below: Light cyan lines] Divide your canvas into four equal parts.
Make four guides framing the canvas, and two across the middle.
For the ones in the middle, View > New Guide > Horizontal or Vertical for needed orientation > type in 50% to get the exact middle of your canvas. These are photoshop shortcuts, may be different on your programs.
3. [Above: Yellow arrows] Make sureyou have ‘Snap’ checked under View > Snap, then select each quarter of your piece > layer via cut > move diagonally to the other side.
After you’re done moving things diagonally, you can either turn off Snap so your doodling won’t stick to the center lines, or toggle the guide visibility off (Ctrl+;). Merge the layers back together.
4. Draw in the middle without touching the borders, color the entire thing if you plan on doing that.
5. Setting your image as a pattern After your image is done, merge all layers into one > select the entire canvas (Ctrl+A) > Edit > Define Pattern
Open a new canvas bigger than the one you made the pattern on, and paint bucket it in! (Instead of the Foreground button at the top when paint bucket is active, select Pattern then your pattern)
If you aren’t using a program that lets you define patterns, merge everything into one layer and duplicate & tile them manually.
Cheers!
Studying Trees by Fabian Rensch
speech bubble lettering tips!
just saw somebody in my notifications saying “why don’t these tutorials ever say sometimes you can’t point the tail towards someone’s mouth without completely redoing the page”
to which my response is: that’s an issue of poor planning on your part, not mine.
Don’t leave your speech bubbles until last, while you’re planning out your initial layout and deciding on what you want in your panels and where you want them, make absolutely certain your speech bubbles fit & read well.
To be honest I don’t quite see how you would have any issue with pointing a tail in the general direction of someone’s mouth unless you’re having tails cross, in which case - again, that’s down to your planning.
If you don’t want to wind up redoing an entire page because your speech bubbles don’t work, don’t start drawing out your entire page until you’re certain your bubbles are going to work - and then you won’t have to scrap everything later.
Today’s episode on the Powow Workshop (Formerly Stringbing Workshop), I introduce the animation breakdown, what it is, and how it can be used.
Please check out my patreon page and give it a support: https://www.patreon.com/StringBing
Gumroad (Buy exclusive tutorial material): https://gumroad.com/stringbing
Music: Boom de Boom - Aaron Lieberman FunkDown - MK2 Happy Mandolin - Media Right Productions
Helpful!
Check out the source guys it’s a really helpful foreshortening exercise!
Hi! Is there any chance that you'd be willing to do a tutorial on how to draw or colour noses? I adore the way you paint, and thought I'd ask since I can never do noses right. 😅
Hey there!
Noses can be as hard to draw as hands, I can see why one would struggle with them. So here’s a tutorial that will hopefully teach you a thing or two!
When I draw a nose from the front (which is 99% of the time) I like to start with the nostrils, because they are the most important and most visible part of the nose. Then I just make an outline of the shape by drawing the columella (bottom part of the nose between the nostrils), and the ala (side parts). I put some base color at the bottom of the nose and some lighter color at the bridge of the nose. Then I clean everything up and add some highlights at the tip of the nose and the sides of the ala, like shown.
For drawing a nose sideways you should think of the nose as 2 bubbles and a tube, it helps a lot. Then draw the nostrils and erase the lines of the circles that are not needed. In this drawing I assumed the light comes from above, so a shadow would form under the nose.
Here are some examples of the best noses that I’ve drawn:
Tip: when drawing a face it’s important to remember that the skin on the nose is a bit more pink/red than the rest of the skin!
Also, if you’re struggling a lot draw with a reference! Look up some pictures of noses and try to replicate the photo, that’s how I learned to draw noses.
Here are some cool videos to help you:
How to draw a female nose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1I6sA-Jl7g
Nose anatomy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HDyk4dy7kc&t=2s
20170226
Drawing Study of February - Light and Shadow
i have some more tips but i have to get back to homework!!! i hope this was helpful anon
For anyone who wants a free pose-able human reference for drawing
The other day I came across this awesome program by accident (I don’t even remember what I was actually searching for, but on the several times I’ve looked for a program like this I’ve had no luck). It’s cool enough that I wanted to share it.
It’s called DesignDoll (website here) and it’s a program that lets you shape and pose a human figure pretty much however you want.
There’s a trial version with no expiration date that can be downloaded for free, as well as the “pro license” version priced at $79. I’ve only had the free version for two days so far, so I’m not an expert and I haven’t figured out all of the features yet, but I’ve got the basics down. The website’s tutorials are actually pretty helpful for the basics, as well.
Here’s the page for download, which has a list of the features available in both versions.
There are three features the free version doesn’t have:
Can’t save OBJ files for export
Can’t download models and poses from Doll Atelier (a sharing site for users; note that the site is in Japanese, though)
It can’t load saved files
The third one means that if you make a pose, save it, and close the program, you can’t load that pose/modified model later. You have to start with the default model. I found that out when I tried to load a file from the day before (this is why reading is important…). Whether saving your modifications (and downloading models and poses) is worth $80 is up to you.
But, the default model is pretty nice and honestly if all you’re looking for is a basic pose reference it should work fairly well as it is. Here’s what it looks like:
There’s a pose tag that lets you drag each joint into place and rotate body parts. The torso and waist can be twisted separately, and it seems like everything pretty much follows the range of movement it would have on an actual human.
Even the entire shoulder area is actually movable along with the joint! See, like how the scapular area of the back raises with the arm:
The morphing tag is one of the coolest features, in my opinion. It lets you pick and choose from a library of pre-set forms for the head, chest, arms, legs, etc. It has some more realistic body shapes in addition to more anime-like ones. Don’t like the options there? Mix a few to get what you want! Each option has a slider that lets you blend as much or as little as you want into the design.
So you, too, can create beautiful things like kawaii Muscle-chan!!
The scale tag lets you mess with the proportions and connection points of different joints. This feature combined with the morphing feature not only allows more body shape variations, but it also means that you can do things like make a more digitigrade model if you want. (The feet only have an ankle joint, but for regular human poses that’s all that you really need, so whatever.)
Or you can make a weird chubby alien-like thing with giant hands and balloon tiddies if that’s more your thing.
The ability to pose hands to the extent it allows is far more than I could have hoped for from a free program. Seriously, you can change the position of each finger joint individually, as well as how spread out the fingers are from each other. Each crease on the diagram below is a point of movement, and the circles are for spread between fingers.
And to make it a bit more convenient, there’s a library of pre-set hand poses you can pick from as well, and then change the pose from that if you like.
In both versions, you can also import OBJ files from other places for the model to hold, like if you wanted to have them hold a sword or something.
Basically, this program is awesome and free and you should totally check it out if you want a good program for creating pose references.
I just wanted to add a little more to this. If you have trouble figuring out how light sources work in your drawings this also allows you to choose where to have a light source.
That shaded ball on the left is your light source. You can see how moving the point changed the shadow cast.
Oh and all those other nifty looking things in that bottom bar there, yeah it’s what you think. You can change the model color to one of these presets or even customize your own palette.
Plus for all you lovely people who want something a little more simplified to use as a pose reference
You can turn your model into the classic wire frame.
Why reblog this? Because for more visual creators, this will be like the lumberjack discovering chainsaws. “Reblog to save lives” as the saying goes.
A helpful list of models for anatomy and other drawing references (x)
Key: (nsfw) Nudity | (£) Not Free
Female Models
MariaAmanda - Fantasy and fairy themed stock, mostly full body
Faestock - Expressions, portraits and poses, many with dresses
RobynRose - 360 angle lighting and pose sets, including expressions
Mirish - Futuristic and action inspired poses, all full body
MiraNox - Gothic inspired model including pin-up poses
ImperialStarlet - Poses with props including weapons
PrincessRowena (£) - Various poses with a fuller figured model
Liancar-art - Fantasy and medieval inspired poses
Male Models
BODYSTOCKS (nsfw) - Basic semi-nude athletic torso references
BirdsistersStock - Various everyday poses and portraits
Mousiestock - A small collection of back anatomy references
Justmeina (nsfw) - Nude anatomy reference portraits
Null-Entity - Different poses based on scenarios
Anyman82 - Military and vintage themed stock
Both/Other Models
SenshiStock - Huge collection of various action and everyday poses
Pyjamacake - Standard poses good for character bases
PhelanDavison - Futuristic and high-tech gear with action poses
Mjranum-stock (nsfw) - Classical nude portraits, and also action poses
Auroradreams - Many poses with dresses, and others such as children
MajesticStock - A large amount of poses with different body types
Animals
HOTNStock - Mammals including large felines and canines
LuDa-Stock - Equestrian and domestic animals
FurLined - Large and domestic felines
EternalOcean - Mostly wolves along with other various animals
Landkeks - All kinds of animals from a zoo
EdgedFeather - Close-ups of a wide range of birds
Other
Burtn - Natural landscapes and scenery
ProREF (£) - Urban and rural places such as abandoned buildings
Clz - Skulls and other bones
Please remember to follow the stock owners rules, happy drawing!
out of curiosity do you have an advice or recommendations to help age up a characters appearance; im trying to draw an older version of an oc but im not sure where to go with it.
sure, i hope you don’t mind me publishing!
elongate the face.
if the character is fat, as they age the weight of their face will move from the cheeks (between cheekbones and mouth, where baby fat rests) down to the jaw and chin
if the character is skinny with a round face, move the roundness from the cheeks up to the cheekbones
hairline and eyes rest higher on the face, nose and mouth rest lower
nose gets bigger, eyes get proportionally smaller
avoid hairstyles such as eyebrow-length bangs that make the face appear shorter/rounder/younger
smaller head in proportion to the body.
can’t emphasize this enough. most people naturally draw pretty small heads in proportion to bodies, which is great for adults, but it’s the #1 reason why most people suck at drawing children: they just size down the entire figure, so their kids just look like tiny adults. make sure you’re drawing kids with proportionally large heads and adults with proportionally small heads.
for wrinkles:
consider what wrinkles the character will have based on their behaviors. do they laugh a lot? strong laugh lines and crow’s feet. do they glare a lot? strong vertical wrinkles between the eyebrows. are they often surprised or sarcastic? strong horizontal wrinkles across the forehead.
build the wrinkles into the face’s structure, don’t just slap them on top. ex: your character can’t have a round face and sunken cheeks.
if your character is old enough to be wrinkly, they are old enough to sag. do not give a 40+ yr old pert breasts. do not give a 50+ yr old tight, unblemished skin. by 60 your character’s back should be some kind of hunched.
features get more exaggerated with age as skin and fat sink around natural bone and cartilage structures while cartilage continues to grow. if your character has defined cheekbones in their youth, their face will be angular enough to cut in their old age. if they have a nice big nose in their youth, that nose will probably be their strongest, biggest facial feature in late adulthood. if your character has big eyebrows in their youth, they will be huge and bushy in their old age.
this is just a personal favorite, but naoki urasawa is a master of designing 30+ year old characters. i super recommend his manga monster both for references for cool looking adults and just because it’s an amazing work.
hope this helps!
CLOUDS!!! here’s how i do em.
if u have any questions feel free to hit up my twitter @chbina
Animal Gaits for Animators by Stephen Cunnane
Hands Row 1 & 2 Row 3 Row 4 Row 5 & 6 Row 7
