lola

melb-20-fashion design student-she/her

[80s-90s-fashionphotography]

Hidden treasures - Vogue UK (2002)

Delfine Bafort by Corinne Day

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Gaza Forever by Sarah Fitzgerald

[the-widows-of-culloden]

Alexander McQueen’s graduation collection from Central St. Martin’s (1992): “Jack The Ripper Stalks His Victims"

Alexander McQueen (1969-2010), undoubtedly one of England’s greatest fashion designers, grew up the son of a taxi driver. At age sixteen, he left school to become an apprentice on London’s Savile Row, where he learned the impeccable tailoring that would later define his career. After his stint on Savile Row, he briefly worked for Koji Tatsuno and Romeo Gigli, before eventually following his passion back to London, where he applied to Central St. Martin’s as a pattern-cutting tutor. He was noticed by Louise Wilson, a teacher in the MA course, and subsequently became a student at the school instead.

In 1992, McQueen graduated from St. Martin’s, and his graduate collection was shown in the end-of-year runway show. His collection was entitled “Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims", referring to Jack the Ripper’s Whitechapel victims of 1888. McQueen’s collections were always highly autobiographical, and in fact, one of his relatives had owned an inn that housed a victim of Jack the Ripper. Locks of hair, as shown in the last picture above, were sewn into the clothing. In the above picture, the hair is encapsulated in white silk, lining the pink thorn-patterned jacket shown above as well. In his early collections, Lee would cut his own hair, put it in Perspex, and sew it into the clothing as a label. This was a reference to the Victorian era, when prostitutes would sell their hair.

Isabella Blow, at the time the Fashion Assistant to Michael Roberts (Fashion Director of Tatler and The Sunday Times), was at the Central St. Martin’s show. Struck by the beauty and craftsmanship of the clothing, she decided that she had to have it, and bought the entire collection for 5,000 pounds. This was the beginning of a remarkable partnership; Isabella chose to pay Lee in installments each week, and would later provide him with the publicity that garnered him attention as the ‘enfant terrible’ of British fashion.

[vodnoebalo]

Rebecca Leigh Longendyke by Thistle Brown for Document Journal

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[jinxproof]

Delfine Bafort | © Marc Souvenir

[wulfhalls]

paul and alia atreides

Such a rich store of myths enfolds Paul Muad'dib, the Mentat Emperor, and his sister, Alia, it is difficult to see the real persons behind these veils. But there were, after all, a man born Paul Atreides and a woman born Alia. Their flesh was subject to space and time.

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[ericryantucker]

Nadia Lee Cohen x The Perfect Magazine 📸 by herself and Charlie Denis

[fashmagazine]

Vogue China

(Apr, 2024)

[zegalba]

SHUSHU/TONG x ASICS (2022)

[requiem-on-water]

(1) Thom Browne (f/w 2024), (2) Schiaparelli (f/w 2022), (3) Roberto Cavalli (f/w 2000), (4) Schiaparelli (f/w 2021), (5) Iris van Herpen (f/w 2011), (6) Olivier Theyskens (f/w 1998)

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