The Western Traveler, The Local Zambian
Throughout my time as a visitor in Zambia so far, I’ve never seen a local sitting on the ground outside an immigration office. I’ve never seen a local wearing sweatpants and a ripped t-shirt to a meeting. I have never, for that matter, seen a local woman wear anything but the smartest fashions or a chetenge and a proper shirt. Yet, there are people here who do the opposite of these things. Enter: The Western Traveler. Or worse, the westerner in a position of professionalism: The Volunteer.
I noticed westerners exhibit the same behaviour in Cambodia when I volunteered teaching English for a few months in 2014. It is a behavior that says “No one worth showing respect to is watching, therefore I can do whatever I want”. Since that time, and with ever increasing work, travel and education experience both in Canada and abroad, I have given this behaviour much thought. My observations here in Zambia have me continuously turning this issue in my mind.
And I ask the following to my fellow westerners:
Would you sit on the ground outside an immigration office and draw your next youth camp plan? I’ve noticed that generally the only people sitting on the ground at an immigration office are the ones with handcuffs, being deported. Would you go to a meeting without showering? Maybe. Would you go to a meeting without showering and wear ripped jeans, or the sweatpants you slept in? You see my point now. Where, in North America, or Europe is it acceptable to do these things? And which Zambians are you looking at that are setting this example? Show me the local Zambian who behaves this way. Show me the Zambian who presents themselves the same way we do when we are overseas. Westerners the world over, I address thee. Why do we do this? After thinking on this periodically over the years and discussing with those I’m close to here, I highlight the following as possible reasons.
One is that we think we have entered a place of lawlessness. A place that has no clear rules, social norms or guidelines, therefore we do not have to adhere to any. I observe, however, that there are guidelines and social norms. Some of which greatly differ from our own and are harder to spot and more difficult to understand. But like social norms and guidelines in our own cultures, just because you can’t see them doesn’t mean they hold no weight when they are ignored. There are laws and rules, and westerners aren’t exempt from following them.
Another reason is that we think we are here on a cultural exchange. That we are here to teach and demonstrate more non-traditional, relaxed ways of living and being, so we might as well start by showing the locals how relaxed in dress and attitude we are. Firstly, I think the tropics have a much clearer idea of “relax” than the Global North. And secondly, it is not a cultural exchange if you are the only one who knows you are having an exchange. It would be a cultural exchange if your host family got to have a stint in your country and then you could both be learning. It is not an exchange, it’s just you being weird, and probably rude and them looking at you like you’re an idiot, and probably being offended.
The third reason, I believe, is that we can afford the luxury of looking like bums. A better way to say this though, is that we think we can afford the luxury of looking like bums. But in my experience of talking with locals, people the world over don’t automatically respect us because we come from more affluent countries. And their disappointment in us will grow if we continue visiting countries in what is supposed to be a professional capacity yet disrespect the integrity of our work and place as guests by behaving like bums.
These assumptions are not in our favour. Oddly enough, what we think of as a “bum” is basically the same all over the world. There may be differing social norms and table manners that translate as rude or polite from culture to culture. Sometimes men may have the opportunity to disregard certain rules because of their station (cat calling for example is rude in most parts of the world yet there just may not be enough discussion to challenge it in certain places). But when you act in a respectful way, most people, no matter their culture can at least tell of your intent, even if what you are doing is strange. So what do you think our message to locals is when we visit, and worst of all volunteer or work, while looking like slobs and behaving in ways we never would at home?
Looking at this issue makes me ask the question I’ve asked so many times: as westerners, what are we doing here? We come, we teach, we judge, we leave. Though I recognize this is extremely pessimistic and it must be said I’ve met a few (and came here with) well-intentioned and respectful travelers and volunteers. Like them, I am here because I have a passion for human rights and working and living with other cultures, but so what? Even though I know the capacity and intent my cohort and I come here with, because of the ill-mannered ones who have come before, we appear as if we are all in on this together.
Hence, we come, we teach, we judge, we leave.
Though international development projects in Zambia have helped support human rights initiatives, I think one key idea is lacking for most westerners who live and work here: Zambians like it here. It is their home, their languages are useful, their education system teaches of their own history, they are an independent nation and they live in a stunning country. Amongst human rights issues and systemic poverty, home is home and whether we realize it or not, many people lead functional lives here that would suit us just fine if we gave it half a chance. The other day, an American friend said to our Zambian friend, “Where’s the caffes yo? You guys need more places to hang out where volunteers and tourists can spend money. Y’all need a caffe here.” To which he replied “Or, you guys could just leave and let us keep kickin’ it.” This is nothing against her, having ideas to boost the economy is cool, but his response leveled the playing field completely. We think we come here to teach and help grow better economies, but as my Zambian friend points out, on our journeys to “save Zambia” who is going to save us from Zambia? I would re-frame this question to say who is going to save us from the type of people we allow ourselves to become in Zambia? We must look to Zambians for guidance on this.
In closing, I think it’s just best for us westerners to adhere to the following rule: If you wouldn’t do it at home don’t do it here. And be okay with the constant fluidity of adhering to that rule while also adhering to my other favorite: when in Rome, do as the Romans do. Participate. Be apart. Respect local custom. And check yourself before you wreck yourself.