LoveWhatEyewear.

The front seat to Fashion shows, trend reports and The New Lifestyle

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This Spring/Summer 2015 season the Yohji Yamamoto man is questioning his identity. “Do we ever find ourselves?” Yohji Yamamoto offers as food for thought. Per usual, Yamamoto’s menswear designs are strong with impeccable craftsmanship. The collection features loose designs with playful colors and proportions. Suits are cut loose to give a relaxed feel. Decorative patches on the suits imitate torn fabric and give off a deconstructed look. Jeans draw a hippy inspiration: oversized and voluminous, with leather inlays being used as a detail in many looks. Jackets are cut clean, opening at the back and altering the core concept of a standard jacket. Draped shawls and cardigans are used to add a nomadic feel to the collection. Deep hues of brown, black, red and blue are used as the center of the color palette this season as intricate prints embellish oversized coats and trousers. While the question of finding ourselves continues to linger in the Yamamoto man’s mind, it is clear through this season’s collection that Yamamoto has a distinct sense of direction when it comes to identifying the Yamamoto man.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Walter Van Beirendonck Contrasting themes and techniques can pull a collection together and make the difference between appealing and sensational. Walter Van Beirendonck does exactly this with his Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection. A powerful contrast between a dark world and paradise is present in Van Beirendonck’s menswear collection, entitled “Whambam”. Van Beirendonck mentions that the collection is inspired by the lack of privacy in this fast-moving world that we live in.  Prints are the focus of the contrasting worlds on display. In one world, an abundance of bright colors and in the other, monochromatic. A series of jacquards, brocades, beachside and animal prints walk the runway this season. Graphic and colorful jumpsuits, striped leggings, and vibrantly printed tailored jackets and trousers make up much of the collection. Van Beirendonck decides to alter classic construction by dissecting and decorating brocade jackets with different fabrics and blazers and tailcoats are deliberately constructed to look broken-down. Traces of native tribes, specifically Papua New Guinea, and references to Western worlds appear throughout his line. Belts on kimono jackets and loose trousers are great examples of the different traces of inspiration. Simply put, Van Beirendonck has created a fantasy world through a collection that is detailed, layered and loud.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Vivienne Westwood Designer Vivienne Westwood fights for justice in her latest collection for spring 2015, embodying the ideal of fashion for a cause. Westwood found inspiration in her struggle against cheap factory meat and the abuse of animals destined for slaughter. Her connection to the Pig Pledge organization was present in the cartoonish pig noses some of the models wore down the runway. Ripped and shredded designs walk the runway this season. We see this look on black blazers with ripped coattails and sweaters with meat-grinder like shreds torn through garments, a clear reference to the brutal conditions of the food processing industry.

Westwood brings an array of bright tropical florals, tartans and pixelated graphics to her collection this season as well as fringed denim, delicate silk, and fine knits. Gaucho pants, swim trunks and matching vests coordinate in the collection, giving off a beachy vibe.  Westwood uses many contrasting techniques in her designs to bring the collection together. In the midst of this powerful, political parade, there are simpler items such as easy solid colored suits and black and white check sweatpants. Westwood has a powerful message to impart, and has forged her truth which speaks  to us louder than words.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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The Spring/Summer 2015 Viktor & Rolf menswear collection displays a range of men’s casual and semi-formal looks that blend to form a lifestyle filled with  ease. Formal versus active is the contrasting theme in this collection, mixing signature tailoring with sporty touches. Pieces are versatile and youthful, ideal for spring. Slim fit sweaters mixed with both tailored and relaxed trousers, make up some of the designs this season. Designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren play with different shapes, prints, and colors working with jewel tones and khaki hues controling the collection’s color palette. A mix of herringbone, stripes, and 50's camouflage geometric prints are present in many of the looks with a subtle yet striking appeal. Pinstriped drawstring pants  alongside preppy cotton dress shirts are just a few prime examples of V&R’s blending the weekend  with the working man. The combination of a knit layer and T-shirt appeared as a sports jersey, quickly becomes a retailers favorite and a must have fit for spring/summer. This is a smart, yet chic menswear collection from V&R making  comfort and  easyness  accessible for the man of today and tomorrow.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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The Versace Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection is all about “the Cuban soul”, in Donatella's own words, and comes through in the mastery of a simple color palette and casual designs. Though, when you speak of easy and Versace, they never seen to quite match.  Let's try sexy and Versace. The Versace man is confident and is not afraid to be seen. He is the only man standing in the room. No matter how easy the clothing fit, the Versace man is more than a man and Dontella portrays this in every look.

The colors of perfection, is what we can say for Versace with palette of khaki, pink and blue pastels and the purest white that never fads away. Gold Versace royal  branding on garb fit for a king, graphic palm trees,  swim trunks white jeans, double-breasted suit jackets paired with three-quarter length trousers, and biker jackets embellished with Cuban graffiti prints. Mesh tops are in abundance and coin sized perforated trousers are paired with perforated bomber jackets and tailored t-shirts. Cool, comfort and ease is kept masculine, portraying clean cut, strong shoulder blazers and blouson jackets as well as pleated pants. The textures and contruction emphasize a relaxed yet elegant ambiance with buttery leathers, suede, silk and tropical wools all cascading down gorgeous sculpted well groomed  tall tanned bodies. Too much is not enough of this lux  living in Versace with the soul of Cuba.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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A common theme amongst this Spring/Summer 2015 Valentino menswear collection is relaxation. Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli create roomy silhouettes this season giving their designs a loose and loungey feel with the introduction of boxy tops, relaxed sweaters and wide cut trousers. The two designers indicate their source of inspiration came from “outsiders and freethinkers”. The result – a calm and free-spirited vibe. The collection is print heavy, featuring butterflies, peacock feathers and various floral and botanical patterns as colorful prints. Colors such as black, tan, dark red tones, and light shades of blues seem to be popular amongst this season’s color palette and we see these eruptions of color in the signature camouflage prints. While the looks remain relaxed, the designs are clearly constructed and display classic menswear. Glossy leather t-shirts walk the runway by khaki trench jackets, embellished with bright butterfly prints. Matching sets of trousers and long polo shirts worn under prints are also evident. Beautiful fabrics such as silky-fine wool and other slinky materials seem to be popular in this collection and add to that relaxed, freethinking vibe.  Silk scarves strengthen the outfits by topping off their looks. We applaud the two designers; a perfect team whose brilliant vision and craftsmanship have culminated in a collection of beautiful designs that portray a nonchalant elegance.  

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Designer Gaia Trussardi takes us on a little trip back to the 1920’s Jazz Age with her Spring/Summer 2015 Trussardi menswear collection. The men’s collection is filled with colorful pinstripe Zoot suits, bomber jackets, drawstring trousers, and caramel leather suits. Elements of workwear are shown through denim jumper and cargo jacket designs. Pinstripes come in all sizes and proportions this season, from thick stripes to more subtle ones, and all in all featuring an updated version of the three-piece classic of the Jazz Age. Traditional Italian tailoring is an evident influence for this season’s collection as we see relaxed double-breasted blazers paired with roomy high-waisted trousers. Fun, wearable fabrics such as relaxed jersey is used on many of the designs, as well as the Trussardi family’s traditional leather. Colors are simple this season: blacks, greys, navy blues, and pops of red seem to dominate the collection’s color palette. Trussardi’s goal this season was to create light, comfortable formal wear that can be worn everyday effortlessly.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Top Man Let's take a trip back to the psychedelic seventies through the Topman Design menswear collection for spring 2015. All we see are visions of the Woodstock Festival executed in the brand’s menswear designs. We see references to the seventies through retro sunflower shirts, flared corduroy and denim trousers and oversized suit lapels. Open neck shirts are fitted, while legwear is generously flared, staying true to the seventies fashion: ‘tight on top and flared on the bottom’. Even tailored pieces resemble seventies fashion with longer length double and single-breasted suit jackets paired with bell-bottom trousers. The brand has modernized fringe suede jackets, parka jackets, classic ringer tees, and sweater vests. Favorite looks consist of washed-out blazers and suit trousers paired with retro printed shirts, worn beneath toned-down pastel printed kimonos. A cheerful color palette dominates the collection, featuring whites, blacks, yellows, greens, and pastels. Even accessories make reference to the psychedelic seventies with velvet wallpaper print briefcases, large aviator glasses and the mop hairstyle!  Sometimes taking a trip down memory lane is just what the dr. ordered, color keeps you happy and puts a  little pep in your step. It keeps us balanced and gives us hope. Anything that brings positive vibes and growth in society is aways essential. Keep it colorful, cool, and keep it Top Man.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Tom Ford Tom Ford grounded his Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection with basic essentials this season. American designer Tom Ford introduces denim jeans to his menswear line this spring. Devoting a great deal of time to perfecting the cut of his denim jeans, Ford makes sure men will love the fit and feel confident in them as well. Crafted in American factories, Ford produces a wide range of denim, varying in color, cut, and fit. Grey cashmere sweaters with a t-shirt lining are paired with jeans to create an effortless, layered look. We see a Western touch this season through soft leather and cropped suede jackets with fringe, colored in earthy tones and Cowboy boots in deep browns. Leather and suede jackets are worn over silk shirts and fitted denim giving off a simple, casual look. The color palette emphasizes the Western feel, featuring warm colors such as sand and deep browns as well as shades of blues and charcoal. Tom Ford’s signature in this collection is presented through a variety of silk blazers in blue zebra print, disco purples, and marble jacquard . With focus on luxurious sportswear and American details, it is no surprise, that we can expect expertly crafted pieces from Tom Ford.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Sibling This season, it appears this trio of designers have taken a darker, edgier approach to their designs. Designers Joe Bates, Cozotte McCeery and Sid Bryan play with dark colors, different shapes and eclectic prints for their Sibling spring/summer 2015 menswear collection. It seems there is a sort of gothic theme present in this season’s collection. Navy blue and black remain consistent in the collection’s color palette, featured in designs such as denim and ripped knitwear. Weird, spidery knits provide a pop of bright red in skirt and top designs, while leopard spots make an appearance through fuzzy cardigan, pullovers, and skirts. The print heavy collection features the same print in navy blue and black on several layered looks. Printed skirts are worn over trousers and printed jackets are worn over crew neck sweaters. A sort of primal or prehistoric feel comes into play with bone necklaces, messy hair, and fringed combat boots. Jackets and trousers are recreated in handmade crochet similar to the tracksuit, while hoodies are doused with giant palettes and Swarovski crystal beads, creating an armor-like look. The trio’s edgy, playful twist on tailored menswear will turn heads this season with this massive success.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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This season’s collection is all about the animal prints, bright colors, and soft, light materials. Roberto Cavalli’s Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection welcomes “the Miami playboy” motif this season. With his sheer shirts, colored suit sets, eye-catching prints, and pops of bright spring colors, Italian designer Roberto Cavalli places us directly in the 1970’s/1980’s springtime Miami. Models walk the runway in animal printed chiffon and palm tree printed tanks and silk separates. Vibrantly colored jackets and blazers are paired with casual pants to pull off a true 80’s pop theme. Cavalli’s blend of light fabrics, slim silhouettes and gauzy details further emphasizes the charisma of Miami in the 70’s and 80’s. This collection is clearly about comfort, featuring harem pants, long tunics, open shirts and a modern take on espadrilles. Outerwear garments are treated with silicone lacquer, allowing garments to feel like leather but look like cotton, creating a light, perforated look within the collection. Navy blues, pastels, sand, and whites are seen consistently in this season’s color palette, staying true to the Miami theme. This carefree collection is truly appreciated and keeps us wishing we were enjoying the Miami Warmth.  

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Rick Owens With no surprise, Rick Owens’s Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection is something unorthodox and completely out of the ordinary. Designer Rick Owen is all too familiar with creating clothes that are out of this world. This season he sent models down the runway with uniquely cut and shaped garments, face-covering hair styles and even a few models painted from head to toe. Rick Owen named his collection Faun, after Nijinsky’s scandalous ballet, L’Apres-Midi d’un Faune. The collection has a sense of deconstruction, having each look more and more deconstructed than the last. Models are first seen wearing peacoats layered over turtlenecks. As the show goes on, we see that neckholes on garments are placed between the models’ legs and coats are worn upside-down and backwards, creating a diaper/skirt-like garment. Owen directly references the ballet in this season’s collection such as cross-body straps on jackets and tunic shirts. The soft color palette of faded whites, blacks, greys and pops of soft salmon, greens, and blues resemble that of the designs used for the ballet. Designs are out of the ordinary with unproportional boxy cuts and fabrics that vary in color and are often patched together. With the playfulness of Owens’s proportions and unexpected pieces, he really wowed the audience this season.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Military meets Sahara with the Richard James Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection. Designer Richard James looked to World War II for inspiration, paying special attention to British soldiers known as the Desert Rats. James portrays an interesting mixture of military associations and references to the Sahara, giving us a sophisticated safari/military vibe through his tailored menswear pieces. James gives a tailored looked to military standards such as khaki pants, shirts with patched pockets and boxy utilitarian jackets. They are and made them even more fashionable and wearable through the use of linen, silk and light cottons.  Glimpses of the safari theme are shown through accessories such as hats, and shirts with colorful patterns of cactus flowers.  Although the color palette is more neutral this season with designs featuring deep greens and shades of taupe, James softens the sharp military look with pops of pinks, orange and blues and with embroidered flowers on lapels and sleeves.  James easily transforms his uniformed looks into modern fashions with clean cuts and precise lines.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Raf Simons Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection presents a constant theme of nostalgia. His looks this season represent a walking scrapbook of sentimental and memorable moments throughout the designer, Raf Simon’s life. Most of his designs feature a collage of powerful images: roller coasters, mountain tops, family portraits, sharks, and koi ponds in which represent a significant time in Simon’s life.

Tailored double breasted jackets with five buttons and cape-like flaps appear in Simon’s most memorable photos and collages. Other favorite looks consist of Japanese inspired tattoo-like tops (some even in sequin versions), scoop neck tanks that embody a mesh-like material, and light up sneakers, which seal together the entire look. Simon’s runway show amplified the moody atmosphere portrayed in his collection.

The color palette runs with white, black, navy and occasional pops of reds and greens. Red and green lighting eerily set the stage, blending the color pops in the designs. On top of that, the audience was required to stand during the show, creating an altered-state fashion experience. This season’s collection is filled with wonderful details that give the audience a glimpse of Simon’s heart and life experiences.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Pringle Of Scotland This Spring/Summer 2015 Pringle of Scotland men’s fashion show was presented in a Victorian mansion built by William Waldorf Astor. This exact location is what sparked inspiration for designer Massimo Nicosia’s Spring/Summer 2015 Pringle of Scotland menswear collection. This inspiration is evident in the exclusive knitted sweater which replicates the iconic William Morris Green Pimpernel Wallpaper seen in the mansion. This season, Nicosia aimed for elegant, classic menswear fashion that features slim lines, original prints, lightweight material and a warm color palette. New stitching and 3D printing technology is used this season in order to give traditional fabrics experimental new finishes. The prints can be seen in various forms on a variety of different textures and fabrics. The color palette consists of blues, blacks and browns with some splashes of orange. Simple sleeveless knits, subtle leather jackets, color-blocked trench coats and softly pleated trousers are presented in this season’s collection. Some favorites are the checkered, cropped knit trousers, often seen paired with cable-knit sweaters and sporty, tailored jackets. Nicosia has successfully balanced classic and modern styles this season, creating a desired fashion forward menswear collection.  

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Prada Modern silhouettes and stitching seem to be a common theme in the Prada Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection. This season, designer Miuccia Prada evokes a vision of the 1970’s in a rather conservative way through the collection’s color palette, silhouettes and out of the ordinary patterns. With her love for both women and men’s clothing, Prada translates the same style and design ideas for both genders. We can see this through her mix of female and male models walking the runway during her show. The color palette matched the fashion show’s runway with somber colors including navy blues, browns, and blacks. The menswear collection features suits and coats with distinct outlines and contrasting stitching. V-neck sweaters feature a variety of diagonal stripes and denim jackets and pants are trimmed with brown leather. Prada avoided recreating an era through her designs and instead added classic details and patterns from the era to her clothing.  

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa

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Ports Using Renzo Piano, an Italian architect as inspiration, designer Fiona Cibani took a contradictory, structured/disorderly/youthful approach to her Ports 1961 Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection. Cibani wanted this season’s collection to be all about clean lines, details, precision, proportions and geometry. She creates silhouettes with cropped, boxy tops and full, comfortable bottoms, portraying clean, casual sportswear for men. Sporty tailoring are the words she uses to describe her collection, keeping the looks comfortable and youthful. The collection features a neutral color palette: beige, white, black and some tobacco and olive tones. Cotton suits with unique elements such as the collarless lapels walk the runway this season as well as luxurious fabrics such as micro weave mohair and water resistant silk for outerwear. Cotton parkas, oversized denim, and architecturally structured hooded jackets are featured in the collection as well. Accessories such as laptop backpacks and brief cases are kept clean and precise to further create a sporty-casual vibe.

- Kelley Ortler Fashion writer - Illustrations by Doryanna Popa