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USD 500: Honolulu - Chicago - Stockholm,,!?

Everything has an end ( except the sausage - it has two,,as the Britts say). We look into our calenders and can just conclude: a couple of months just fly away! It is "going home time" whatever we like it or not. We browse the different internet sites and find a ticket to Stockholm with one stop-over in Chicago for the ridiculously low price of $ 500! The next up in prize is $ 3,500/ person - exactly the same ticket, exactly the same route, exactly the same carriers and the same day. How is this possible? Yes folks, with a few days of persistent convincing: "No we are not terrorists" - yes we only fly one way - and pls, WE PAY WITH A SWEDISH CREDIT CARD - not cash! (this we understood result in an immediate visit from FBI). The tickets are for sale - but the very strange and unanimous web travel agency didn't believe us. Three days later with scanning of credit cards (in color), passports, confirmation that we are staying on US soil - and not calling from Lebanon, we manage to pay for our tickets. Still very very suspicious, we drive to the Honolulu airport to check in. Is this a skim/con site we have been fooled by?? or are these tickets real??

Are we fooled by a con site? Will we ever set foot on this United flight??

It is spooky to hold two boarding passes with a total flying time of + 20 hours - for the prize of one Sto-Copenhagen ticket (one hour flying between the two Scandinavian cities).

Arriving at Arlanda - Stockholm the day after, we still are confused,,,why on the earth give away these tickets for nothing?? We would pay $ 2,000 - 3,000 easily for this long leg of flying. But $ 500?? how can this be possible? -But it was.

Looking out into our garden in Stockholm - still a ½ meter of snow,,

So,, it is very profitable to spend some hours on the net looking for cheap air tickets. Yes - they exist, but often sold by US travel agencies you will encounter severe problems paying with an European credit card. How to give a Zip code that is valid for example?? How to manage that small problem? Fill in the Swedish Stockholm Zip and you are thrown out from the pay site. Telephone calls "n mass" + fax copies + +++ you name it - but it works in the end - so be persistent!

The nort beach - the Banzai Pipeline,,

A must for us Hawaiian rookies, is a visit to the North Beaches. A world famous spot is the Banzai Pipeline. With no protecting reef in-font and a perfect sloped bottom profile below, nature generates the largest and most dangerous waves in the world. We all stop the cars and with the greatest interest rush to see this world attraction!

Walking slower and slower as you approach the scene - you start to understand what it's all about. -Young dear devils are risking their lives in the mega size waves. There is very little cracking of jokes or drunk people partying here - it is nearly too much just to watch.

10 - 15 meter waves today,,,,

Many film teams come here to shoot the surfing films that you might have seen. A "Skidoo" is a must to get the surfers out and up on these waves. Anyone applying for the life guard job here must be special.

In these breakers,,a few don't make it back to the surface in time,,

Just to hear the hell break loose when the waves pound against the beach and the air gets filled with flying water - gives you goose bumps. Who the He,,, risk their lives to swim out and challenge these waves - and why, one can ask. Some do and probably they are as scared as we spectators. This is insane! The improvised surfers graves along the coast witness about the difficulty to judge these mega waves - and to pull out in time. Go there if you get a chance. it is a world attraction!

Un-known surfer at the North Beach,,

The island has a lot to offer,,

You have to leave the big city of Honolulu and get out to the other side to find some real beauty. The trip takes you around the entire island on paved roads and the drive across Oahu takes you max one hour.

The famous Blow Hole ,,,note the brave young kids with their beer bottles,,

Beautiful clear water and perfect waves gives you the best surfing in the world - regardless of your skills. There are surfers from 10 years up to 80 so you will find your perfect wave at the perfect beach.

As you drive away from Honolulu you find a laid back and relaxed atmosphere far away from the screaming HOPD Police sirens.

Waikiki - Honolulu a magnetic place,,

Stitched together like a giant carpet patchwork the Waikiki hotel towers rub shoulders for a better sea view. Even with the lowest expectations you get disappointed visiting Waikiki the first time. Hotels that clung onto the island a few years back are nearly falling off - as a local put it to us. What to do??

The Hilton Lagoon and beach extension.

Just exited the island with an artificial beach. Permit??? Just throw in a lagoon as a memorial to somebody at the same time, and in the name of Hilton - suddenly you have all the permits to extend the island.. With its 22 archers of land and over 40 towers and buildings - the Hilton Waikiki offers almost 20.000 rooms. Adding up all the rest - we should be nearly one million visitors on the island - nearly outnumbering the one million inhabitants makes us 2.000.000 that are squeezed into the congested Oahu. Add a few 100.000 cars and you are looking at the modern version of the Polynesian Hawaii. If you come here to see any Polynesian traditions or inheritance - forget it.

Hmmmm - palms with no coconuts?

Down town Honolulu - Waikiki today looks like a Disney theme-park -back drop. Synthetic beaches, lagoons, synthetic sand, palm trees - you name it.

The kids are the best,,!!

The only real and original part are we - the Tourists. Some 50% seems to arrive from Japan. Always in large groups, always firing their photo apparatus in professional style - but always very humble and polite. Yes dear folks, this is Hawaii and Waikiki, explored down to its last penny. If you like Vegas and the feel of Miami - you will enjoy Waikiki and Hawaii.

Well known surfer at Waikiki,, enjoying the perfect weather.

In the middle of this commercial merry-go-round, you can find the most charming small beach bars where the locals hang out. With a touch of Hemingway we share long conversations about the island life and the new post war era of Honolulu.

Beach bars from the 50 'ies.

We also learn to enjoy the "island classic" - Mai Tai - an absolute must when visiting Hawaii. Hang out late and the Honolulu beaches offers some spectacular sunsets this time of the year. Yes - it is very commercial,,but it can be very very nice as well.

It's all fake - but who cares!

ALOHA! ,,,one day younger!

Departing X - mas island on a Friday morning - you arrive in Honolulu lunch time Thursday (yesterday). You have gained one day and become one day younger!

Just missed the rush hour traffic out of town. We luckily driving to town

Like Phileas Fogg & Passepertout in the Jules Verne roman, Around the world in 80 days, we have been traveling eastward all the time and will gain one day on our trip when passing the date line. As you maybe remember he took a bet doing the round trip in 80 days but missed the last train departure from Liverpool - and thought he missed the bet - but he didn't. He had spent 79 days and made it in the last minute. We say Aloha to Hawaii and Honolulu at the island of O'ahu.

Getting closer to Waikiki,,,,,

X - mas island living,,,needs - want's

Looking at the style of living at X - mas island, and other South pacific islands, it becomes very clear that what you need; is a fraction of - what you want. The smart marketing people try to confuse us in our developed western style societies - that you really need all the products that you want.

The Tabakea village "Mall"

Their cleaver mix-up of needs and wants results in a lifestyle of chasing happiness though consumption. You don't need the new I-phone 5. Your I-phone 4 is working perfect - but you are fooled to believe that the # 5 gives you real "happiness" getting one. So you do, and there is a glitch of happiness for you - until the #6 is reported to come on the market,,,

Water is a real need and is precious on the islands. If a main well is over utilized and salt water breaches in - the life is over on the island. The islanders grow vegetables in their gardens using the common and very precious supply. The old rule is that the fruit and every thing grown belongs to all in the village. You don't find selfishness or greed here, neither do you find over consumption. We start to understand where all the smiles come from and that happiness has nothing to do with consumption.

An "Easy Rider" on the newest moped on the island (a villager was kind enough and lend it to us) Check the sign to the Cassidy int. airport.

Desperately i try to pay for the gasoline. With no change on a 10 $ bill - I'm asked to come back another day. I fill the tank and drive away. No payment - no name or sum taken. "You will remember. Come back another day". I just cant' believe it.

With an empty jail and the only Policeman hanging out at the Post office the island and how the inhabitants live their lives have shown us something different.

The simple things are always the most difficult.

(note the roasted pig on the table behind!)

We leave the X - mas island after the villages say good bye to us with a feast - including some traditional island moves. A roasted pig (!), lobster and fresh fish (what else!), is served.

Our blue planet is fantastic.

Wildlife @ X - mas Island,,

Magnificent Frigate-bird close up.

Male Frigate - bird

With nearly no humans around the wild animals are not scared of you. The island is known for it's very rare bird inhabitants that you don't need any binoculars for viewing (!)

- Frigate-bird showing off -

Isolated as the Galapagos but with even less visitors - if any at all - the Islands show its beauty wherever you go.

A one minute beach walk,,,,,

- Who's there? The island ghosts?,,(Seashells never seen before)

I just wondered what was tickling my toes,,,

Smiles and smiles again,,,

One funny and new thing is the constantly smiling and laughing people on the Pacific islands. In the lyrics of the song: Jamaica Farwell, a line says: -“Sounds of laughter everywhere- and the sunshine’s daily on the mountain top”-. This has been a new discovery for us. With no income to talk about, no money and no material things that would we kill for, people are the happiest and most friendly on the earth.

Rereao Teaek donated flowers and earrings

Internet is something new and exotic, run by a governmental sat dish down at the harbor. A very kind Internet operator helps us out with the struggle – but first – some flowers in the hair + new sea shell ear rings.

Did I say slow,,,Steaming hot - in a 40 ft container.

Stunning nature

Nowhere in the world will you find a cleaner atmosphere and cleaner water. The views are stunning!

Wherever you look the colors are clear and bright.

Very seldom you see such deep blue colors elsewhere. There is no industry, no pollution and the native islanders live mainly from fishing and farming coconuts.

A typical "home" - with sea world class view

The average salary is 2 $ /day and the islanders are known as the most friendly in the world. There are only a few US game fishermen that visit the island to pay top dollars to catch giant Trevallies and other world record game fish.

The Ocean is pristine – clear – turquoise, as God once created it.

Merry Christmas!!

You are welcome to the island that celebrates Christmas every day! The Christmas Island in the republic of Kiribati.

We are very far from home in fact - very few – if any tourist visits the Christmas Island. This week we are two from Sweden and the entire island knows who they are.

The island is an atoll in the group of Gilbert & line islands that together with Phoenix Islands form the republic of Kiribati. The republic is scattered over a vast areas in the south pacific with the capital Tarawa in the west 2000 km away from the last island in the group – the Christmas Island.

With its 3 meters above the sea level as highest it is most known for the raising sea level that eats away the country. Islanders about Tsunami warnings: “They are of no good. Only makes people anxious. There is nowhere to run anyway so why scare people” (!). Only boat connection exists between the two most populated islands and it takes you one week – one way. Discovered by Captain Cook 1777 and a part of the commonwealth the Britt’s detonated a Hydrogen bomb over the island after WW2.

For the lump sum of GBP one million the Kiribati government bought the islands from the Britt’s in the 1980’ies.

Normal family living in the village. Very very basic.The island has 2000 inhabitants - all living like this.

Happy Birthday Marit!!

Champagne breakfast - what else,,

The Millennium Cave

45 minutes with minibus and a two hour Jungle trek takes you to the Millennium cave. Luckily, the villages that have the caves on their territory also runs the small stream of visiting tourists that take on the challenging one day trekking – climbing – swimming tour into the jungle. The fee we pay goes directly to the villages and their school developing plan.

Jungle trekking over the bamboo bridge

We are positively surprised how well the tourist money is spent. Clean, organized and friendly villagers meet us everywhere. The children have clean school uniforms, back packs and books When do the westerners, missioners included, ever understand that the locals know best how to build sustainability into their own future

All first time visitors must paint their faces - before entering the cave

The island are usually littered with abandoned “aid projects” propelled by the west or China that fitted very well into various persons careers, at a certain time. I feel a shame finding rows of Bible marketing “branches” of Christianity,(some never heard of?), trying to sell their mission The friendly Islanders many times got caught by these slick Gods-representatives and stood no chance. Today, finally, people start to understand that hospitals, medical care and schools have nothing to do with the churches or the word of God.

Repelling down into the Millennium Cave

We are all fascinated how elegantly the villagers live from the jungle – without destroying, ruining or having to buy anything from the white man. Do I need to comment: no electricity? How do they do it? This is Eco friendly living and the villagers have known it for thousands of years.

Agility - needed

No fear

A 45 minutes swim out

Breath taking waterfalls to pass,,,

Reviling the secrets of Kava - the magic bush at premium place in the village

Santo, so many things to see

Jim our guide at the Coolidge.

We come to Santo to see several things. The SS President Coolidge, a huge luxury liner converted to a troop carrier after hit by a mine, sunk in the canal just outside Loganville Santo.

The blue Holes – very unique fresh water springs in the jungle with ultra clean water.

Some of the world’s best beaches with unique sweet / salty water in layers that don’t mix with each other. Cold on top – warm below.

Lonnoc beach

Champagne beach

Maybe one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, the Champagne beach

Espiritu Santo,,WW2,,

Beyond reach from the attacking Japanese forces the US and Allied troops built a stronghold at the Espiritu Santo Island, preparing to attack north up the Guadalcanal and the expanding Japanese forces. The clashes between the two fighting nations turned the war around and eventually lead to piece after dropping the two A-bombs at Japan. There was a grim war in the Pacific that left heaps of remaining wrecks, air planes etc as a reminder from the WW-2 and what went on 70 years back in time.

Marit at the Coolage

Diving the Million Dollar point where the US troops dumped all military surplus when leaving Santo 1946.

Vattenpost från söderhavet till Ludvig och Lovisa

Nu provar vi att skicka vattenpost från Vanuatu , vi har dykt ner till postlådan och lagt på det, hoppas att det finns text kvar att läsa och att det kommer fram. Det var jätteroligt att försöka simma igenom vattenposten bland alla fiskar. Ha det så bra därhemma.

Bu-Bu and the Brewery bar,,

After extension of our air ticket we feel like lunch. Across the treat we find a bar full of ex-pat’s enjoying good food it seems + drinks. The sound level is comfortably high and everybody is making conversation with us. Let’s stop for a beer and a snack. 20 minutes later our lunch order comes in consisting of tree long plates.

Freshly baked bread + humus. Deep fried Tempura squid+ pasties flambéed shrimps + a teriyaki steak. Last plate a selection of cheeses + chutneys. What is this?? A walk through beer drinking place with 1:rst class food?? I have to talk with the Chef. Out comes a Frenchman (did you thing anything else) named Bu-Bu. We start a conversation about food and FOOD. Bu-Bu has a 6 year experience as a Chef from a one star “Guide Michelin” Restaurant in Lausanne. Further, working as a Chef in gourmet restaurants in Paris – today in the Brewery bar in Port Villa. Yes - I just give up. Forget what you know about food. It needs to be a pick Frenchman to set the standard. And why does an ordinary café need a wine list of 50 different wines here? You just red it: A picky Frenchman. It is easy to get used to this standard.

Very fresch from the market.

Cava, the islander’s mellow way to prevent violence.

On the way back we stop in the pitch black jungle at a small glowing kerosene light – a Cava bar. It is time to sample the Vanuatu Cava. Known to be very strong and very powerful, made from a peppery root it has a taste like no other drink. We order a small bowl in the total darkness, only illuminated by one small candle. Everyone speaks with a very quiet voice – when not spitting or grunting. The effect is like an anesthetic at your dentist. Your tongue goes first then the rest of your mouth follows. Half of your face is gone and you just wonder about the rest of your inner systems – how is this affecting you? As the islanders already have told you, you go very quiet and mellow. Alcohol makes people violent. Cava cool’s you down. Still today the islanders preferred drink running thousands of years on the clock. It is working. Confirmed.

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