Meet Hari Nef: Model, Actress, Activist, and the First Trans Woman Signed to IMG Worldwide
Vogue.com June 16th, 2015
Sitting in makeup at the Standard East Village for her first Vogue.com shoot, Hari Nef, the 22-year-old transgender model and actress recently signed to IMG Worldwide, is telling us that sheâs trying to hang out with Caitlyn Jenner in Los Angeles this summer. âIâm trying to get frozen yogurt with Caitlyn and just talk about girl stuff,â she says.
In a few weeks, Nef will be living in L.A. for the first time, working on a high-profile projectâshe canât disclose what just yetâthatâs sure to launch her further into the cultural forefront. Itâs an invitation for visibility sheâs happily accepted since the announcement of her signing with IMGâsheâs the first transgender model on the agencyâs U.S. roster, which includes Gisele BĂŒndchen and Gigi Hadidâtwo weeks ago, only days after she graduated from Columbia. Almost immediately after graduating, she flew to Amsterdam to shoot a campaign for & Other Stories with an all-trans cast. Back in makeup (Nef calls the robe sheâs wearing âso model-y!â), we imagine what kind of froyo Caitlyn Jenner would get: probably peach. âI was going to say peach!â Nef laughs. Maybe with coconut flakes? Strawberries? Sprinkles?
Speculating on Jennerâs palate is, of course, as arbitrary as speculating on her identity. Nef hopes that, by being open in her work, she can help others understand that there are as many ways to be trans as there are trans people. âBeing a woman is an option, being trans is an option, and theyâre options that appeal to me,â she says. âWe need to listen to people, not labels, not semantics.â
Nef arrived wearing silver hoop earrings that stayed in for the shoot. This is the allure of working with Nef: keeping what she brings to set, including the discourse. Sheâs known for being outspoken and beaming a sharp enthusiasm, so much so that, as she speaks, laughs, and throws her body into gesture, one of her hoops flies out of her ears. (âThere goes my hoop again!â) She bends to pick it up, slipping it back in without a pause.
For Nef, modeling began when she started transitioning, and sheâs built her career while âcreating, re-creating, meta-creatingâ herself. âIâm a different girl almost every time I look in the mirror,â she says.
Fashion canât look away. During New York Fashion Week this season, Nef walked the runway for Eckhaus Latta, Hood By Air, and Adam Selman. She starred in Selfridgesâ Agender campaign filmâsoundtracked by Dev Hynes and choreographed by Sia collaborator Ryan Heffingtonâwhich the London-based retailer used to launch a âgender-neutral pop-upâ department this spring. Two months ago, she caught the eye of Transparent creator Jill Soloway, who took Nef as her date to a PFLAG gala, captioning an Instagram shot: âI brought an international supermodel to the #pflag gala. I heart @harinef so hard.â
But even amid all this, Nef still punctuates her Instagram bio line, âactress & model,â with âlmao.â She grew up obsessed with fashion, crouching in the international fashion magazine section in a Borders in Newton, Massachusetts, but never imagined that one day sheâd be âput on blastâ as a female model with a major agency. While studying theater at Columbia, she interned with casting director Jennifer Venditti, and also at VFiles in SoHo, and, at night, hosted weekly parties at the Diamond Horseshoe and Up & Down.
Nef is something of a Tumblr-age ChloĂ« Sevigny, with dewy skin and a bone structure that supports home-cut bangs, carrying an elegant contradiction in her posture, sitting in a pretty slouch when sheâs riveted, standing statuesque when sheâs a little bored at a celebrity-laden party. But of course, her audience looks to her in a different way than Sevignyâs: They arenât necessarily clamoring to be It girls; they simply want to be accepted as women, and have a say in what that means.
Tumblr users send her messages, like this one from a young transgender woman from Iraq who is âstealthââgender-conformingâat her high school: âItâs so lonely being the only person in my town who is trans. I am so thankful that I follow you and other girls on this site ⊠maybe Iâm living vicariously through you a bit. Youâre so brave.â
For Nefâs part, âI could have hid in Boston and lived at home for three years,â she says, âgone through my transition, taken voice lessons to make my voice more feminine, gotten gender reassignment surgery, and spent time to complete my transition before I made my debut in fashion or film, but I didnât want to wait!â she says. âI wanted to be in the world.â Waiting would have required that she pause the rest of her life. âIâm not trying to self-aggrandize, but itâs more than a job to me,â she says. âIt is political.â
Nef is the first to say that being trans is not the most interesting thing about her, that âgender is whatever.â But as a trans woman who spends so many of her days in front of cameras, her consciousness of her gender has a more steady glow. âInsisting on perhaps a more gender ambiguous or barefaced or subtle femininity as a trans woman has opened me up to certain dangers and rejection,â she says. âThereâs also confusion from cisgender folks. Itâs like, âGirl, you should be doing everything you can to be femme. Why arenât you? If you went a little harder for this, people really wouldnât clock you! You could really get straight men!â â
Nef recently spent three hours in hair and makeup on a photo shoot, emerging with heightened contours, full-eye makeup, and long, sleek blonde extensions. When she looked in the mirror, her first thought was, âI could be married in a year if I looked like this every day,â she says. âBut it just looked like a different person. It didnât look like me.â
What looks like Hari to her? âI feel like I donât look super feminine when I wear a lot of makeup,â she says. âYou know, one of my trans girlfriends told me really early in my transition, âGirl, never wear lipstick on a first date. It freaks them out. You look like a tranny.â When I donât wear makeup, itâs not because Iâm lazy, but itâs me making this radical bid for the feminization of my body and being confident in that. I donât want to say that women who do use makeup or get breast implants or have fake nails are insecure. Theyâre entitled to that and they should do that if thatâs what they want to do. But for me, there are no answers. Itâs just a matter of preference and choice and fetish.â
At the end of the shoot, Nef floats out of the room in a J.W.Anderson cloud of tiered tulle (the modelâs own). Standing in the elevator, she begins to describe real-time happenings in a faux French accent. âWe ahre on zee ground fluh.â Is she referencing some highly intellectual French New Wave film? Mais non, she explains playfully: âI wish I could have the SpongeBob SquarePants narrator narrate my life!â The right to self-define, to choose your own narration, and then to change your mind is what Nef hopes her life will inspire. âItâs not enough to be cute in a magazine,â she says. âYou have to talk.â
words by Katherine Bernard âąÂ portrait by Ben Grieme âąÂ styled by Taylor Mcneill