If you have ever talked to someone about their trip to Ireland, at least one of their stories will have included a Pub in it. Ireland’s Pubs (short for Public Houses) are a cornerstone of social life. A place to meet friends, family and neighbors to talk, and yes, drink. It should surprise no one that, holding nearly one-fourth of Ireland’s population, that Dublin would have a vibrant Pub scene.
My goal was to not only stop at the most popular pubs with the tourists, but to find some where the majority of patrons were locals. As I started this quest on an early Friday evening, I was given a couple to start with by a hotel Concierge. (Here’s a tip: Go to a larger or more famous hotel in Dublin and look for someone wearing this or a pin with the keys at least:
These keys mean they are members of the Les Clef d’Or, a society of leading Hotel Concierge. If the tales are to be believed, (and I haven’t been led astray to date,) they know every “best of” list in Dublin by heart, and which ones are right and which ones are rubbish.
Due to my location at the start of this journey, the first on my list was The Palace on Fleet Street.
Established in 1843, the Palace evokes an exclusive vibe. Not due to the engagement of the staff, but because you get the feeling you’ve discovered something unique. Groups gathered together talking about work, sports, family or whatever else was on their minds. A sketch in the back lounge, according to the Publican, Sean, depicts the famous (Flann O'Brien, Patrick Kavanagh et al) who frequented there. And while it was early on a Friday afternoon, it wasn’t early enough to get a pew in back. The Palace is as the name suggests; timeless and elegant.
The next Pub, geographically, was the world famous Temple Bar. Although it is a tourist attraction, and a later pub staffer called it a “plastic pub”, I just like the vibe. Yes, it was packed early on a Friday afternoon. Yes, most of what I heard spoken was not in an Irish accent. But everyone there is having a good time and the staff were all smiles and engaging, even if it was a more superficial engagement. They were too busy to do anything more. Plus they have their own Irish Whiskey Label. (Although they can’t yet ship to the US.)
The next Pub on this Friday trek was The Stags Head. This made my top three. Well-built pint of Guinness. Engaging, knowledgeable and jovial staff. The patron base was welcoming as well, including a mix of Trinity students, stockbrokers and miscellaneous walk-ins like myself. Great conversation. Add in the marble-surfaced bar and being watched over by the huge name sake, the main bar could have been removed from a Victorian-era time capsule. From the moment you walked in you were made to feel welcomed and important. Who could ask for more?
The Long Hall was on my list, simply for the novelty, I believe. Narrow and, yes, long. Lanterns, muskets and the fact that Phil Lynott shot a video here add to the randomness of it all. An antique clock forms the arch between bar and lounge. “Faded grandeur” is how one person described it. While the publican was nice enough, the patron base was a bit too self- absorbed for my taste. Neat, but if you have a time constraint, this is one you can miss.
Neary’s is unique, and in a grand way. Wood paneled bar on one side, restaurant style on the other. This also is in my top three. A carpeted floor makes Neary’s stand out if everything else didn’t. This has an “old soul” feel to it. The staff in pressed while shirts and ties, the local patrons engaging. They seemed to be a mix of city-workers and Chatham Street diners. It also had an upscale feel to it. Brighter lighting may have helped that. It also may have just been the respectful and genuine interaction with everyone there. This is definitely not a tourist pub. I hope too many people don’t find out about it. Is that selfish? Absolutely. If you ever visit you’ll understand.
McDaid’s was suggested to me when I mentioned older pubs, and it is definitely natives that frequent this place. It was packed. And while the staff was pleasant enough, I didn’t get that welcoming feeling from some of my favorites. It felt like I walked into someone else’s high school reunion. More accurately, it felt like I had walked into a Liverpool pub with an Arsenal shirt on. I barely finished my pint before I took my leave.
Kehoe’s reminded me of College Hill Sundries in Greensboro, NC, due to the mix of customers if not the style, and is the last of my top three for this stroll. It was very busy, but even with that the staff and patrons were more engaging. The Dubliner hailed it "an old man's bar for the kids", but I was not out of place as a man in my 5th decade. Going to the men’s toilet was an adventure; I almost knocked myself out on the low overhang to the stairs down. Then the stairs themselves looked like an Escher painting. Of course that could be because this was the last of the seven pubs I visited, but others agreed.
I didn’t go into this one, but I might have to go back, just because of its name.