“Clothing is one of many ways in which I am fascinated with translation. In fact, when I look back over my life, a lot of seemingly disparate interests—Ancient Greek and Latin, poetry, fashion, pedagogy, philosophy, bi-cultural identity—all have something to do with translation. I believe that our need to communicate ourselves to others is a foundational, universal drive. We are all bound together in the messy work of trying to express what exists on the inside of us to the external world, with some semblance of accuracy and grace. As a trans man, this has been a particularly complex endeavor, though I don’t see it as a difference in kind so much as degree.
Since an early age, clothing has been one of the most powerful tools available to me to signal selfhood. But it has also been a double-edged sword, because I don’t think we tend to see clothing separate from body. When I was twelve and observed my breakdancing teacher—a muscular, cis man—wearing baggy Levis, it was an easy and understandable imaginative leap to assume that if I bought the Levis they would fit me in the same way. It was just another small slide into letting myself believe that the Levis wouldn’t just fit me like they did him, but that by wearing them I would magically transform into him. That Levis could make me a muscular cis man.
This danger is just one subset of the challenges I think trans and gnc folks face when navigating a fashion world built off of the binary. For me, so much of my identity has been constructed—lovingly, intentionally, and intricately—in my mind. When confronted with trousers that are tight at the waist and way too long, a t-shirt that bunches at the hips, or swimwear that is hopelessly gendered, it is as though that identity I have worked so hard on is starved of oxygen. There is nowhere for it to go, no embodiment to inhabit.
On the flip side, clothing that fits and that also expresses the nuance of our individuality through style is a kind of magic trick of translation. I call it a magic trick because I think that clothing—when it functions in an ideal way—is simultaneously hyper-visible and invisible. It is our internal self externalized, writ large for all to see. But by the same token, if it is really an accurate representation of us, then it is a kind of natural extension of ourselves that is so obvious as to hide in plain sight. It is a frictionless translation: we signal ourselves to the world, and we do it so successfully that the world simply accepts it without thinking twice.
Some obstacles lead to creativity. Other obstacles—in my opinion—are needless. Navigating and expressing the self is obstacle enough, as is—we shouldn’t have to do it within the impossible world of binary fashion. That’s why I founded Both&, a grassroots clothing company for the trans/gnc community that bases all of its designs off extensive conversation with the folks we are creating for. It is my hope that by building the first sizing and fit system specifically for trans and gnc bodies, we can do our small bit to aid in this challenging and exciting act of translation.”
#finneganshepard, founder of @bothandapparel
he | him | hisFounder & CEO | Both&