Okay this is all very tentative and mostly off the top of my head, and I think that this shrug would require a lot of knitting and a fair amount of yarn! because the back and shoulders piece will probably need to be pretty long to offer a nice drape. But I can’t look at this post without wanting to throw in some numbers. (It is a good exercise for me, and hopefully useful to other people. Also the 2x2 rib sleeve is very similar to mitts I used to make, so the point of reference is there, and frankly this is cool and I want the excuse to knit one.)
so let’s say gauge is about 20 sts/4 in. in fingering-weight yarn. [I’m getting about 32 rows/4in. too.] (If this gauge is too fine, knit it in heavier yarn at 16″/4in.)
I’m thinking in a basic S M L (8″, 8.8″, 9.6″ roughly) based on hand-size, like you’d measure around for mittens. (If your hand circumference is 7 or 7.5 inches around, S should still work because the ribbing will draw in. I would in fact size up for this reason, and knit M for an 8″ palm. This should work for many body types with a little adjusting! For plus size, start with your hand circumference (for most, just going up in 4 sts. increments for the caston to create a larger size will eventually start resulting in loose-fitting cuffs!) but maybe plan to increase sooner and at a faster rate initially; for example, you might start increasing at 4-5 inches in on the sleeve/cuff, and work increases every 2-4 rows until the circumference of work suits. Omit or add increases as necessary - if you’re very slim you might not want to work all the increase rounds below, and if you’re very muscular, you might want to add an initial increase round or two.)
This is one of those things that you can try on as you go! I would definitely do that, and adjust the rate of increase etc. to suit you.
needles: US 1-3 (2.25-3.25mm), both DPNS and straights or a circular for knitting the flat part
yarn: a lot of heavy fingering-weight (maybe 800+ yards? that is a total guess though. just…a lot.)
sleeves: 23-24″ because they’re extra long (thumbhole optional?)
back and shoulders piece: probably pretty long! 48″-60″
CO 40 (44, 48); join without twisting to work in the round. Note/mark the beginning of round; that will be where your increases/decreases center and where you split work to knit flat.
Work k2, p2 ribbing for 8 inches
(Optional thumbhole: work k2, p2 ribbing for 2 inches; switch to flat knitting for 8-12 rows of k2 p2 ribbing worked in pattern; join and knit in the round again. Continue to work in pattern until you have 8 inches.)
Begin increases: I would use my first stockinette rib as the anchor for this, and increase on either side of it. essentially: k2, m1l, work in est. pattern* to end of round, m1r.
Knit all new stitches until the increase point expands enough to start changing them into purl ribs.**
Work [9] rounds in est. pattern, then work another increase round (making this increase pattern 10 rounds total); continue this way to the shoulder-split (or until you have a good fit over the biggest part of your arm; don’t keep increasing if it doesn’t work for you!).
At the shoulder, split work at the end/beginning of the round. Work flat in k2, p2 ribbing for 48″-60″. Try it on! After knitting flat to the length you want, rejoin. Work the second sleeve exactly like the first, working decreases every [10th] round in place of the increases. Decreases and optional thumbhole are positioned in the same places. (The reversals you need when knitting left and right-handed mitts or sleeves separately won’t apply here; there’s sort of an invisible line cross your shoulders connecting your thumbs.) Use a stretchy bind off.
*Knit where you knit on the round before; purl where you purled.**
**The only place this est. pattern rule won’t hold true–if you’re working increases exactly how I plan to–is when you have 3+ increase stitches on either side of the stockinette rib, and start working the newest stitches (which will be nearest the column of that anchoring stockinette rib) as purls to create a new purl-rib column. (This is getting kind of long, so if that’s hard to picture I might add a photo when my sleeve gets to that point.)
***I might use lifted increases instead of make-1 (m1l, m1r) increases.
andulkaphoto
2087
pixelskylines
origamiaround
baratheonpilled
kianamaiart
ellievsbear
