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Mulai #rajutjalan ajutjalan lagi, menuhi orderan boneka #amigurumi #natal 😂 (at Jakarta, Indonesia)
#crochet #rajutjalan #crochetaddict #crochetersofinstagram
Close Order #amigurumi #chrismastdoll #christmastree #chrismas #tinuleutik
#crochet #rajutjalan #lelakiperajut #crochetaddict #crochetersofinstagram
Akhirnya mulai lagi #rajutjalan sambil ngerjain project #crochet #amigurumi (at Graha Simatupang)
"Taqoballahu minna waminkum , syiamana wasyiamakum ..." #eidmubarak #rajujalan #lebaran #idulfitri
WORLD WIDE KNIT IN PUBLIC DAY! Hari ini sabtu 10 Juni 2017, biasanya saya mendaftar #komunitas #rajutjalan di www.wwkipday.com tapi tahun ini saya tidak mengikut serta dikarena banyak kesibukan, bentrok dengan puasa Ramadhan, dan juga kondisi badan kurang fit. Sebagai gantinya, saya membuat bingkai foto / #frame id #facebook, dengan menggunakan aplikasi facebook camera effects yang saya kasih nama "Rajut Jalan WWKIP" dan dapat digunakan oleh pengguna facebook jika ingin fotonya dibingkai dengan tema #wwkipday , selamat mencoba dan "Selamat Hari Perajut Dunia" #wkkip2017 #menwhoknit #knitguy #wwkip #knitting #knitters #crochet #crocheter @irfan_kriyakudotcom (at Jakarta, Indonesia)
#Repost @myfrozcraft with @repostapp ・・・ Menunggu apalagi delay tdk lagi menyebalkan , obatnya cuman needle, yarn and pattern Wip : cardi Vitamin D Row 10 Pattern by Heidi Kirrmaier #silkmerino #papiputyarn #rajutjalan #knitproneddles
#Repost @lehaleha.knits with @repostapp ・・・ Knitting in Public with @ellyyarnshop.. #knittingaddict #knittersofinstagram #knittingofinstagram #knittinginpublic #handknit #handmade #knitting #bolabolabenang #rajutjalan
It’s A Knitter’s Thing - this knitted accessory is so versatile - this is a retail item but very inspirational for hand knitters to figure out - how’d they do that?
See more & where to buy this item -> http://www.pinterest.com/emdjewelry/knitted-accessories/
oh yes please someone make a pattern for this pLEASE
It’s literally two sleeves connected by a scarf. Start at one cuff and knit in the round (with increases) until the sleeve is long enough to fit over the shoulder. Now start knitting flat, dividing the sleeve at the armpit. Knit flat (probably in 2x2 rib) until the flat scarf portion is long enough to loop comfortably across the shoulders, around the neck, and back across the shoulders. Re-join in the round and work the other sleeve in reverse down the other arm.
If you wanted it to be really really symmetrical, you could knit the two sleeves from the cuff up, switch to knitting flat on both and knit half the scarf portion on each, and then Kitchener stitch or three-needle bind-off the two halves together, but it seems unnecessarily complicated.
Okay this is all very tentative and mostly off the top of my head, and I think that this shrug would require a lot of knitting and a fair amount of yarn! because the back and shoulders piece will probably need to be pretty long to offer a nice drape. But I can’t look at this post without wanting to throw in some numbers. (It is a good exercise for me, and hopefully useful to other people. Also the 2x2 rib sleeve is very similar to mitts I used to make, so the point of reference is there, and frankly this is cool and I want the excuse to knit one.)
so let’s say gauge is about 20 sts/4 in. in fingering-weight yarn. [I’m getting about 32 rows/4in. too.] (If this gauge is too fine, knit it in heavier yarn at 16″/4in.)
I’m thinking in a basic S M L (8″, 8.8″, 9.6″ roughly) based on hand-size, like you’d measure around for mittens. (If your hand circumference is 7 or 7.5 inches around, S should still work because the ribbing will draw in. I would in fact size up for this reason, and knit M for an 8″ palm. This should work for many body types with a little adjusting! For plus size, start with your hand circumference (for most, just going up in 4 sts. increments for the caston to create a larger size will eventually start resulting in loose-fitting cuffs!) but maybe plan to increase sooner and at a faster rate initially; for example, you might start increasing at 4-5 inches in on the sleeve/cuff, and work increases every 2-4 rows until the circumference of work suits. Omit or add increases as necessary - if you’re very slim you might not want to work all the increase rounds below, and if you’re very muscular, you might want to add an initial increase round or two.)
This is one of those things that you can try on as you go! I would definitely do that, and adjust the rate of increase etc. to suit you.
materials:
needles: US 1-3 (2.25-3.25mm), both DPNS and straights or a circular for knitting the flat part
yarn: a lot of heavy fingering-weight (maybe 800+ yards? that is a total guess though. just…a lot.)
very rough measurements:
sleeves: 23-24″ because they’re extra long (thumbhole optional?)
back and shoulders piece: probably pretty long! 48″-60″
rough numbers:
CO 40 (44, 48); join without twisting to work in the round. Note/mark the beginning of round; that will be where your increases/decreases center and where you split work to knit flat.
Work k2, p2 ribbing for 8 inches
(Optional thumbhole: work k2, p2 ribbing for 2 inches; switch to flat knitting for 8-12 rows of k2 p2 ribbing worked in pattern; join and knit in the round again. Continue to work in pattern until you have 8 inches.)
Begin increases: I would use my first stockinette rib as the anchor for this, and increase on either side of it. essentially: k2, m1l, work in est. pattern* to end of round, m1r.
Knit all new stitches until the increase point expands enough to start changing them into purl ribs.**
Work [9] rounds in est. pattern, then work another increase round (making this increase pattern 10 rounds total); continue this way to the shoulder-split (or until you have a good fit over the biggest part of your arm; don’t keep increasing if it doesn’t work for you!).
At the shoulder, split work at the end/beginning of the round. Work flat in k2, p2 ribbing for 48″-60″. Try it on! After knitting flat to the length you want, rejoin. Work the second sleeve exactly like the first, working decreases every [10th] round in place of the increases. Decreases and optional thumbhole are positioned in the same places. (The reversals you need when knitting left and right-handed mitts or sleeves separately won’t apply here; there’s sort of an invisible line cross your shoulders connecting your thumbs.) Use a stretchy bind off.
*Knit where you knit on the round before; purl where you purled.**
**The only place this est. pattern rule won’t hold true–if you’re working increases exactly how I plan to–is when you have 3+ increase stitches on either side of the stockinette rib, and start working the newest stitches (which will be nearest the column of that anchoring stockinette rib) as purls to create a new purl-rib column. (This is getting kind of long, so if that’s hard to picture I might add a photo when my sleeve gets to that point.)
***I might use lifted increases instead of make-1 (m1l, m1r) increases.
For those of you who wanted more specifics on that sleeve/wrap!!
Wow...
Sakinah Alatas / “Kawin Kontrak” / 2015
Wakakakaa
_The everyday knitted life_
Today’s request comes from @stitchesandfibre. It’s geometrically patterned lace weight shawls and should be pretty cool. Honestly, I love geometric patterns. I think they’re a wonderful way to add visual interest.
Geometric Lace Shawl
Hanging Garden Stole
Mystic Waters
Ulpukka
Adamas Shawl
Glenallen Shawl
Hence
by
Olga Wedbjer
S I M P L I C I T Y : love this photo from our weaving workshop last month. already excited about our next one in July! tickets are on sale via the link in my profile- click on WORKSHOPS.
Late 19th century Igbo vertical broad loom from the women’s weaving industry at Akwete (southern Igbo area), present day Abia State, Nigeria. 1690 x 1780 x 140 mm. World Museum Liverpool.
Ngerajut di Kantor