ROLDORF & CO.

ROLDORF & Co. A great little watch shop in Vancouver

[roldorfco]

When the Shadows start to move again he reaches for the one instrument he trusts. A Marathon wrist watch.

A note under the door, and a cold war secret is now in play!

“False Seconds” is an episode based graphic novel ( and perhaps even a horological first)! Stay tuned!!

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Value Prop: Nomos Weltzeit

Introduction:

The Nomos Weltzeit hits way above its price point. Yes, it’s an expensive watch but when you look closely, and take the time to contemplate, you’ll see that it’s not out of line!  In this review, we delve into the value proposition, and overall appeal of the Nomos Weltzeit.

Nomos Weltzeit - White Dial Ref: 805

Design and Aesthetics:

The first glance at the Weltzeit reveals a simple yet refined look. Given its major complication, that says something about the person who wears it. The stainless steel case is carefully crafted in the manner where its form fits its function. It is elegantly understated, putting it in the company of Jaeger Le Coultre, and early Longines pieces. It’s an understated watch, and would likely pass unnoticed  among those looking for an expensive watch to grab. With a diameter of 39.9mm and a thickness of 10.85mm, the watch is a comfortable everyday wear, and will conveniently slip under a shirt cuff.  If you’re wearing short sleeves, a casual strap will tie it in with loafers & deck shoes or of course, your favourite pair of ‘Birkies’!

The white dial Ref 805 makes this watch a 20mm strap monster!  It doesn’t matter what texture (well perhaps not alligator, croc & lizard IMHO) or colour, it is going to feel the bomb! So, when you’re feeling a bit bored, just throw another strap on it and admire how it changed.

The standout feature of the Weltzeit is its world time complication. The outer ring of the dial showcases the 24 major time zones, each represented by a distinct city. The slender hour and minute hands offer legibility, and in a way gives it wings, and a rather Pan-Am ’esque feel ( well, it is a World Timer).

Weltzeit Midnight Blue Dial Ref: 807

Functionality and Performance:

The world time function is the star of the show, allowing the wearer to effortlessly switch to different time zones with ease. The pusher at 2 o'clock enables quick adjustments to the city ring while simultaneously advancing the hour hand, jump transitioning from one time zone to another. Additionally, the 24-hour disc at 3 o'clock further enhances convenience by indicating “home” time. When you’re away, you don’t always need to know what time it is at home, so the ‘local’ time is seen with the primary dial and hands. The home time disc is discreet. It’s a simple function that’s there for when you need it most ( like getting the timing right for saying goodnight to the kids at home). You’ll never have to fiddle with the crown to switch time zones as you would with standard GMT’s, which has amazing intrinsic value as it removes a setting pain point.

Turn the watch over and you’re in for a surprise. It’s powered by the in-house Nomos caliber DUW 5201. The automatic movement is finely finished with “Glashutte” striping, thermally blued and black polished  screws visible through a sapphire porthole.  It’s not a chronometer rated movement but it doesn’t need to be. That alone keeps this watch ‘affordable’. You can expect it to get you where you need to go on time, or at least be an accurate indicator to your tardiness. With a power reserve of approximately 42 hours, the watch provides standard timekeeping duration before needing to be wound.

Comfort and Wearability:

Despite its complex functionality, the Weltzeit remains a comfortable timepiece for everyday wear. The watch sits comfortably on the wrist, thanks to its ergonomic case design, slim curved profile and reasonable lug to lug length. This watch is surprisingly light, considering its complications, which enhances the overall comfort, allowing for extended periods of wear without fatigue. You might even forget you have it on.

Value Proposition:

We’ve looked at a number of ways where the Weltzeit’s functionality, ease of use and unobtrusive design make it a stunning watch, but these things are mostly intrinsic values. Where does this watch stand in price comparison?

Well, there are not many players in this particular realm. Patek World Time models have a similar functional configuration but are conservatively +10X more. Yes, their cases are made of precious metal, and hold a very prestigious name but when you consider both have a proprietary movement with fine finishing, Nomos is offering something incredible!

As for others...

Breguet Marine Hora Mundi 5557 ~$100,000+ CAD

Jaeger Lecultre Geophysic Universal Time ~$18,000 CAD

Omega AquaTerra Worldtimer ~$12,000 CAD

Vacheron Overseas Worldtime ~$48,000 CAD

Conclusion:

In conclusion, the Weltzeit is a stunning creation that seamlessly blends form and function. Its minimalist design and attention to detail make it a true work of art. Whether you're a frequent traveler or simply appreciate fine craftsmanship, the Nomos Weltzeit is an exceptional choice. This timepiece transcends its primary purpose of being a ‘World Timer’ watch and instead becoming a travelling companion in a beautifully packaged wristwatch, making it a worthy addition to any watch enthusiast's collection.

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Traditions & Transitions

April 2023 article from the AWCI Journal.

Making Horology Mainstream

Visitors to British Columbia, Canada, are said to frequent Gastown, touted as one of Vancouver’s most unique and vibrant neighborhoods, brimming with an eclectic mix of shops, historic architecture, dining options, and cobblestone streets.

On West Cordova Street in Gastown is where more and more visitors are discovering Roldorf & Co., Independent Watchmakers. The interior design of the shop includes ex-posed brick walls (a rarity in Canada) the original floors, and a charming, cozy seating area. Even more striking, and ahead of its time, is the layout of the shop. Upon entering, customers and visitors are invited to make a choice. Go to the front desk, (which, as an aside, is made from the base of an industrial lathe), or go to a workbench, which is just as close to the front door, and where you’re cer- tain to find one of the shop’s three watch- makers. In fact, all of the workbenches at Roldorf & Co., are in the center of the shop.

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The Bremont Broadsword Recon.

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Reverence & Hubris

We are living in a very strange world, a world that for some is in crisis, for others, it is a time for opportunity. The world is surviving a pandemic, two and a bit years of fear, hope and charity. For some, it was a time for discovery, to find out more about themselves, and their relationships, and for many, it has been the  first time to experience a devastating world crisis. During this time, as an entrepreneur, business owner and watchmaker, I have noticed a phenomenon.

In the lead up to the great pandemic of 2020, the world saw an emergence of a curiosity in mechanical timepieces. It was fascinating to see a new generation of people noticing something that had been all around them. We started to see an increase in awareness of the independent watchmaker, and the revival of established brands. We started to notice people who had a passion for watches, and start their own brands to produce small numbers of unique and exciting pieces. All of this was seen through the lens of an expanding group of people that started to notice. Social Media, gave people a soapbox to stand on, espousing the passion for what they’ve seen, learned, had and do. The economist’s term for this would be  “Social Capital”. With each new post, more capital is gained in the form of followers. The more unique the post, the more followers would gather to see what’s next. I cannot remember a time while growing up or during my life as a young watchmaker, where social capital was so strong. In the past, people liked to flex their Rolex but they did it more silently. If you had the money, or you worked hard to have the money to buy such a watch, it was considered a discerning taste. It's not all that different from the type of car you drove. People who had acquired these things did not think of themselves necessarily as influencers, I don’t think. They just liked what they had, and had the means to buy them.

The influencers then were the unique achievers, those people that were opera singers, explorers, racing car drivers or world record seekers. Perhaps, if the internet was around at that time, people would have acted differently socially.  In today’s world, the influencer isn’t necessarily one of the above, but certainly has become an enabler. Their following have become the society. The enabler has emerged to become a person that appears to be much larger than life, and one that the society looks too for their direction.

The watchmaker, in all honesty, was the person in the background, and from my experience, always was a humble person like many others involved in a trade.

On a recent flight, I happened upon a very interesting movie title to watch. If you’ve seen it, you’ll understand. The title of the movie is “The Outfit”.

At its core, it describes a humble way of being. The movie is not about a tailor but a “cutter”. When you watch the movie you’ll understand. The leading character in the play is a craftsman, that has learned his trade from the beginnings as an apprentice. Over many years he learned more and more about his trade, and became a reliable craftsman, one that always tried to achieve “perfection”. For any craftsperson it's that goal of perfection that is ( hopefully) ingrained upon them during their apprenticeship or schooling that is their guiding light and compass. However, It was not for the craftsperson to espouse their virtues . This behaviour was not virtuous at all as then their humble virtue was then hubris. Their virtue or skill is for others to espouse, as this would be based on their findings of the tradespersons skill and service. Hubris does not, and should not, be exuded by the tradesperson. The fact is, it was considered to be a poor reflection on the craftsperson if they did so. Ultimately their reward was simply knowing the skill and the finish of the work with the service they would give was the best they could provide, and that their customer was happy to the point of exceeding their expectations. 

The pursuit of followers and  the concern for reverence in a trade is simply hubris. 

As for a watchmaker, It doesn’t matter if the watchmaker is making parts by hand, or if the watchmaker is restoring or just servicing a watch. The pleasure and confidence a watchmaker should have in their work is in quietly knowing skill they have put into the work, and for their customer to espouse their virtue.

The world has changed, to where we worship false idols. It can be seen in watchmaking. This is not a religious connotation but simply an observation from one that tries to always remember humble beginnings and their place. In this place, hubris must not exist. It is a place where one always strives both silently and tirelessly for perfection, and not for reverence.

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How long should my watch battery last?

In the grand scheme of things this is probably the most asked question we get on a daily basis.

I think most people think there is going to be a quick definitive answer to the question, as quite often it’s posed in passing, and there is, “ It depends! ”

Watches come in all sorts of sizes, therefore there isn’t a one size fits all battery. As such, there is less room in some battery casings than others to hold the chemicals and components that convert their chemical energy into electrical energy . This means that there is a unique capacity for each battery size.

A batteries “capacity” is measured in Milliamp-hours (mAh) ( if we were to put this into general terms, and take a car as an example, this would be how much gas is in the car. All we would need to know now is what the engine’s consumption rate of the gas is to know how far we can get on the full tank of gas. Not all engines are the same size after all).

In the case of our analogue quartz watch there is an electrical circuit that provides an electrical impulse that is used to move the gear train wheels that then turn the hands on your watch. This is the engine or more commonly known as the “movement”. Just like in cars, the engine can be different from model to model, one consuming more (fuel/ electrical energy)  than another. The consumption of a watch’s circuit can be measured using a multimeter.

If the engine in you car is in tip top condition (as you just recently had it in the shop for a tune up) the gas consumption should be nominal. if it has been a long while since you had your car serviced the gas mileage would be less than nominal. 

The same can be said for your analogue quartz watch. When it’s in tip top condition ( like when you first bought it) its rate of consumption will be nominal. As the movement ages though, and the movement has not been in for a “tune up” its consumption will increase mostly because of the lubricants drying up and dirt which in turn cause more friction and therefore increases the consumption.

if your watch is small, using a small battery, and the watch movement is in less than nominal condition the battery will be “drawn down” very quickly.

Here’s an example of the math:

if your watch battery is of a size that it has a capacity of 20 mAh (Milliamp- hours) AND the watch movement it is in has a consumption rate of 1.1μA (micro amps) in tip top shape the calculation is as follows:

(20mAh x 1000) /1.1μA = 18,181.8182 hours

Your watch will run for roughly 24.9 months

If your watch is in less that tip top condition having a consumption rate of 4μA  the longevity of the battery will be around 6 months !

If you’re only getting 6-8 months out of your last battery change, it is time to bring it in!

Not all batteries are of equal quality either, so you should be aware of the type/manufacturer of battery that is being put into your watch . Batteries that are made with cheap components are more likely to leak inside your watch, causing all kinds of damage.

http://bit.ly/Roldorf_corporateconcierge

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5 Minute Review: Bremont Broadsword

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New Podcast !

The Roldorf Cafe is back up for a new season of ‘casts starting really shortly. First up is a candid discussion with Jason Lim of Halios Watches.

Highlights include:  Windup San Francisco, in pursuit of the  “One Watch”, the Halios Seaforth Roldorf Edition roundup, and it’s Halios’s 10th year anniversary with upcoming releases and a big shout out to A good friend Bo Meng!

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Nothing gives me more pleasure than picking up a new watch and sharing my thoughts about it. Today, I am super excited to have my Supermarin

Great post Carl! 👍👍

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Just How Endangered Is Watchmaking?

Advocates in Switzerland and Britain are trying to get the skill added to a Unesco cultural heritage list.

Watchmaking isn’t likely top of mind for most people and is, in many ways, quite misunderstood. The skills and knowledge required are taught , being handed down from one generation to the next. We rely on these skills even here in Canada, yet there is no real Government funding for it, or a truly world class place here to learn those skills.

The interesting part about this is that watchmaking is an applied science. Skills learned for it are highly transferable into the high tech sector, if the knowledge and attained skills are sound. With that in mind, classical skills can be a contributing factor in the ability to innovate in that and other industries, which in itself is important.

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Under pressure #haliosseaforth #halioswatches #haliosxroldorf #watchporn #watchoftheday #watchmaking #vancouver (at Roldorf & Co.) https://www.instagram.com/p/BqoJ4TYn2GP/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=vpn6w4w058cl

Water resistance is key to the longevity of any watch. Its good to get it checked periodicaly. This is something that we can do at ROLDORF+Co pretty much while you wait.

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MN goodness! #roldorfxhalios #haliosseaforth #halioswatches #roldorf (at Roldorf & Co.) https://www.instagram.com/p/BqiJVKgnlrd/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=8nnlq222xj70

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Trimming (at Roldorf & Co.) https://www.instagram.com/p/BqdO5g7HrTJ/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=urz91amiw8gs

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Crowning (at Roldorf & Co.) https://www.instagram.com/p/BqdOOxYnoVq/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=n9rdt7w4ag9k

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at Roldorf & Co. https://www.instagram.com/p/BqWDyDMnD5K/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1h5f6gfhz0kb2

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An instrumentalist! #roldorfxhalios #notatrumpet #roldorfedition #watchassembly #roldorf #halios #haliosseaforth (at Roldorf & Co.) https://www.instagram.com/p/BqLE5NpnVs-/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1no8efqnayae4

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Nothing to here! (at Roldorf & Co.) https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp2wpk8HO4i/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=df8ola709rfj