REPOST: Gentleman fashion brings back suits, ties, and cravats
Philipp Laage got it right when he said that “Clothes alone do not make a man a gentleman.” So how does he define gentleman fashion? Read his response to this question below.
Image Source: news.com.au
THE postmodern man has several labels to carry including careerist, husband, lover and father. This broad range of expectations can quickly lead to a feeling of insecurity.
It may also be the explanation for the desire to make the right impression while maintaining an air of discrete understatement. In men's fashion, this trend can be seen in the renaissance of the classic man look. A gentleman, after all, knows how to conduct himself in life.
"There's a clear trend towards the gentleman look," says fashion designer Astrid Werle.
"Men who are in the 30-year-old age bracket, and who are starting a career, are buying tailor-made suits."
Fashion author Bernhard Roetzel says the look has been updated and reinterpreted with a narrow cut.
Werle says double-breasted suits are back in fashion.
"They have a classic feel but with a young cut, not like grandad used to wear."
Image Source: news.com.au
The gentleman look is not just for the law student or the man looking to build his career, it's also having an impact on street wear.
"We're seeing a rebirth of the dandy look, with bow ties, cravats, cuff links and well cut suits," says fashion blogger David Kurt Karl Roth.
Image Source: news.com.au
This street gentleman look involves combining different styles without looking too respectable.
"This style should never look bourgeois," says Roetzel.
Werle says the first way to avoid that happening is by choosing a suit material with a distinctive and cheeky pattern.
"That could include picking a material with a pin-up girl pattern."
Image Source: news.com.au
Brash paisley material or a colourful lapel reverse can also help you get the look right.
"Shirts should be buttoned up to the top without wearing a tie so you get the classic feel without looking conservative."
No man is advised to dive completely into the past and the look is best combined with modern elements.
Roetzel says pure classic fashion is boring.
"You can quickly end up looking like a young pseudo lord in a Barbour jacket."
The secret to this style is deciding when to stop.
"No one should get the impression you live like this in private," says Roetzel.
One way to draw a line in the sand is with a beard. "You could also try wearing a smart sports jacket with cotton pants and a pair of sneakers," suggests Werle.
"A suit could be worn with sandals, a baseball cap, a buttoned up shirt, a full length coat and sneakers," adds Roth.
Image Source: news.com.au
The gentleman look is about avoiding being confused with a one-track-mind careerist.
Werle says the desire for truth and sincerity is driving the trend.
Roetzel says there's more than fashion behind the look.
"Certain rituals are connected with it, like drinking gin and tonic. But it's also about developing a sense of cultivated style."
Image Source: news.com.au
Naturally there is a danger the style can go wrong and you end up looking a fool.
"Young men can look a bit stupid in all that gentleman get-up, especially when all they know of it is from reading books," says Roetzel.
"If you have never been to England it can end up appearing false."
Werle warns against overdressing for the wrong occasion such as situations at work where you have to deal with your boss.
Clothes alone do not make a man a gentleman.
Men’s fashion expert Roman Magnus reinterprets gentleman’s fashion on the basis of the changing norms of the male world. Read about his ideal elements of gentlemen’s style on this blog.
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