Tailoring and Stuff

My name's Kai | I'm 20 years old from London | a few years ago I studied bespoke tailoring but had to give that up due to unfortunate circumstances | Now I'm trying to find my way back into the bespoke craft and world | idk how often I'll use this

[simplyhistoricallytailored]

Felling the hem of a comercial pattern cardigan with lining after absolutely no sleep

[twitterlols]

I would trust him to defend my life

[nemfrog]

A baby and an adult compared as if they were the same size.  Using Modern Science. 1951. 

[glumshoe]

Thanks! I hate it.

[nihilnovisubsole]

so on my recent trip to socal, i had just enough time for a brief stop at FIDM’s emmy nominee exhibit. everything there was gorgeous, but i was on a mission, and that mission was to get reference close-ups of aziraphale’s costume. if there’s anything i love, it’s thinking way too hard about menswear, so i decided to write up a deep dive to go with them!

these photos are as close as i could get without tripping over the display, and as close as i could zoom my camera in without losing too much clarity. below the cut, i’ve added more thoughts and info about the outfit’s details. honestly, you could get most of this from staring hard enough at behind-the-scenes photos and promotional art. but it was a fun outing, and if it’s any help to anyone’s writing, art, or cosplay needs, that’s just the cherry on top.

[sidenote: i passed a crowd of cosplayers on their way out of the museum - a handful of crowleys and aziraphales and, i believe, a beelzebub. if you were at the exhibit on saturday, september 7th, and you left around 1 PM, i saw you! you looked great!]

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[catchymemes]

4 Guys Beg Their Neighbor To Let Them Play With Their Dog, Get A Wholesome Letter In Response

Source: Tw/Jack McCrossan

The goodest girl: IG/Stevie Ticks

[ambrorussa]

@my18thcenturysource

does this help?? my kensingtons are half a size too big (though both shoes are size 10, i’m 9.5W technically and they fit differently) so my heel slips out a bit oops, but overall they’re very comfy.

[my18thcenturysource]

OMG YOU’RE THE BEST!!

Seeing both models side to side, they are really really similar and share practically the same heel (which I LOVE)!

Thank you so so much!!

I think I might buy the Kensingtons instead…

One more question (don’t hate me!): Do you find white shoes more wearable than black ones? Was it a personal choice or do they look good with a lot of stuff? You know, I wear black every day, but since I want them mainly for dancing (and of course to wear with my gowns, but that might be secondary), white is a colour I am currently considering.

Thank you again for answering my questions and posting this video!

[conquistadoradelmar]

@my18thcenturysource​

These are a couple pairs of my American Duchess shoes. You can see the green is almost black, much darker than it was in the pictures on the website. Additionally, the green has already scuffed very badly even though I only wore them once and that was indoors.

These below are my Anacronicos modelo Sil.la and my regency slippers. I think it’s easy to see how the leather is wearing much better on my red shoes and isn’t wrinkling and creasing, even though I have worn these many times, even for three entire days outdoors in Colonial Williamsburg. You can also see the leather on the red is softer, which means it conforms to the foot much better and molds to fit you. The American Duchess leather is quite stiff. Still comfortable, but not even close to my red shoes.

Here are a couple side by side comparisons of my American Duchess shoe and my Anacronicos shoe. The Anacronicos are the red and the green are the American Duchess. I think it’s pretty easy to see the red leather is much higher quality and doesn’t scuff at all. It also breaks in and wears much better. It doesn’t wrinkle and crease the way the American Duchess leather does.

I really like American Duchess as a company. I love their books and their patterns, but unfortunately it has been my personal experience that the shoes are very poor quality compared to what else is out there on the market for the same price. But if you’re only going to wear them indoors and not very often then it may not matter as much. If you intend to use them for more events though my Anacronicos have stood the test of time much better. 

Also fyi that the American Duchess heel is held on only with glue. I know because my heel fell off one of the green ones after wearing it once and I had to take it to a cobbler to have it fixed. When the heel fell off I saw it had only been held on with the glue and nothing more.

[my18thcenturysource]

Wow. That’s such a comparison! I didn’t think about Anacrónicos options until now, but tomorrow I’ll check them out (and the import taxes comparing the ones I’d have to pay for the AD shoes, you know, Mexico stuff). The heels are SO different and the shape looks really nice!

I would use them indoors and mainly for dancing. Right now I dance with ballet teacher’s shoes or character shoes, both are very flexible, don’t have support, and the heel is low (but for Baroque it could and should be higher). So I have one more question: what about the new leather shoes? How do they feel like? I ask because if I have to wear them and break them before actually wearing them, they might not be the right choice for me.

Thank you @conquistadoradelmar for showing me more options!!!

[fripperiesandfobs]

Suit, 1755-65

From the Metropolitan Museum of Art

[simplyhistoricallytailored]

I know all these #buttonhole posts are getting tiring and all looking samey but I assure you that if you have a good eye for detail you can see they're all quite different, here is todays true #milanesebuttonhole this time done a fair bit larger than the tiny one of last night and so much more suited to go onto a lapel or sleeve cuff of a blazer should someone wish. Are there any buttonholes or thing you'd like to see me attempt? #bespoke #tailor #sewing #handsewing #handsewn #tailoring (at London, United Kingdom) https://www.instagram.com/p/B5QJy-KJ-he/?igshid=ijlqv2cmsv6h

[simplyhistoricallytailored]

(Edit: the buttonhole featured is actually a regular buttonhole just done with a different technique from what I've now gathered) Had a go at some #buttonhole sewing today on some scraps, really proud of my attempt at this #milanesebuttonhole went shockingly well considering I lack any proper interfacing or fashion fabric, with the progress I made here today I think I can finally begin preparation on my #18thcentury period accurate waistcoat from @costumesof. Though I won't be using the milanese style of course I feel that this has given me the confidence I needed to properly get to work. #tailoring #periodtailoring #historicalcostume #historicalfashion #18thcenturywaistcoat #bespoke #18thcenturyfashion (at London, United Kingdom) https://www.instagram.com/p/B5OtXPoJ6VG/?igshid=1u60ukocqw18a

[simplyhistoricallytailored]

My bad, the #buttonhole in the last post was not a milanese one, so I've gone ahead and rectified that by creating the wolds tiniest milanese buttonhole! So small in fact a magnifying lens was required to take photos of the details up close!!! I had some excess thread left from the last one and felt I needed to put it to good use and practice, what do you think? #bespoke #tailor #tailoring #milanesebuttonhole #milanese #handsewn #handsewing #sewing (at London, United Kingdom) https://www.instagram.com/p/B5O0OEvJNzV/?igshid=8li90eetityk

[simplyhistoricallytailored]

Had a go at some #buttonhole sewing today on some scraps, really proud of my attempt at this #milanesebuttonhole went shockingly well considering I lack any proper interfacing or fashion fabric, with the progress I made here today I think I can finally begin preparation on my #18thcentury period accurate waistcoat from @costumesof. Though I won't be using the milanese style of course I feel that this has given me the confidence I needed to properly get to work. #tailoring #periodtailoring #historicalcostume #historicalfashion #18thcenturywaistcoat #bespoke #18thcenturyfashion (at London, United Kingdom) https://www.instagram.com/p/B5OtXPoJ6VG/?igshid=61eo5jzlwp7c

[experienced12]

The Rothschild: Behind the Closed Doors of the Richest Family in the History of the World – The Rothschild family has grown into one of the most prominent, and controversial, lines of wealth and power in the world. The saga of the Rothschilds began in the 16th century and still continues to this day. It all began with Mayer Amschel Rothschild, a banker who elevated his family from poor peasants living in a crowded hovel, all the way up to the heights of fortune and fame. 

[livesunique]

Zebra Carriage, London, 1898,

Lionel Walter Rothschild, 2nd Lord Rothschild, nephew of Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild (who built Waddesdon), dedicated his life to the natural sciences. 

His private collection of specimens formed the foundation of his museum at Tring which opened to the public in 1892. 

An eccentric character, Lord Rothschild was fascinated by birds, butterflies and giant tortoises, and famously trained zebras to draw his carriage. 

Mr Hardy with Zebra Coach London, 1898

Lord Lionel Walter Rothschild with Zebra Carriage

Leopold de Rothschild and his Zebra Carriage, London, 1898

[livesunique]

Baron Guy de Rothschild residence, Interior Geoffrey Bennison

[oldbizarrebeautiful]

The Arsenic Waltz, an illustration from the Punch magazine, 1862

[roses--and--rue]

1850s-1860s archery outfit.

Look at the cute little pocket diary hanging from her belt!