Malek Jahan Khanom. 1848-73, a Persian princess of the Qajar dynasty.

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Malek Jahan Khanom. 1848-73, a Persian princess of the Qajar dynasty.
Alexander McQueen S/S 2009
Fashion still too slow
I recently bumped into a Pippi Longstocking book in my basement. Made me realise she might be the one character I remember from my early ages who was a proper badass and a girl. The other female protagonists used to be more like Pippi’s BFF Annika – a cute compliant girl with blonde hair in a neatly ironed calico dress. It surprises me that I had never before paid conscious attention to the storytelling that was embedded in the costumes in these books.
Pippi’s dress was supposed to be blue but she ran out of fabric so she had to put in some red patches here and there. Her skinny little legs were covered with long stockings, one brown and the other black. She also had shoes exactly twice her size.
I’m assuming that’s because Pippi’s life is rough and messy, with no parents to groom her properly (although with shoes like that – the girl has potential, with ‘bigger shoes to fill’ omg sry). But because Pippi herself had made that dress exactly as she liked it, to every detail, it wasn’t a style forced upon her by anyone else (e.g. parents). Pippi did whatever she wanted and wore her heart on her sleeve at all times. What you see is what you get. While the “proper ladies” are trained to do their best in concealing their visible faults. Despite Pippi looking like what is conventionally thought of as 'the homeless look’, I can’t help but see a junior’s declaration of independence.
Or as a homeless guy once told me, “homelessness is the end of your social life, but it’s the beginning of your real life”. Haa, take that.
Michelle Pfeiffer’s Catwoman costume looks like a fabric of open wounds and old scars. She is so busy being bad she doesn’t have time to get it properly fixed. She has more important things on her mind and she doesn’t really care that much either. It’s like she bought this oufit once and even though it is entirely worn out by now, the look has become so integral to her self that she finds it difficult to let go of. It’s the feeling you get with the 'favourite pair of jeans’ that you keep on repairing and patching up, all the while it becomes more and more you, until there is nothing left of the original. You can buy the exact ones in a new pair but it just isn’t the same, all the familiar wear and tear is gone.
In one of the first drawing classes at the academy, my teacher referenced this lady when giving an assignment to draw our “self-portrait” on a piece of clothing. To this day, when I think of Elle Driver’s clothes here, my brain jaw-drops. The maniacal precision of the items, down to the shoes, reminds me of beauty surgeon’s drawing on the body before they start sucking the fat out. Because you can’t find or can’t be bothered to find the clothes you want, it really is more time-efficient to project it on a more-or-less decent canvas yourself.
In a way, I wish this were the way the world worked some day, that you draw on your blank sweater before going out. That we agree to have immediate self-expression on clothes. Fast-fashion is trying to come closer and closer to that immediacy but I’m afraid there has to be some other quantum-leap to reach Elle’s level. I hear Zara has got the production down to 2 weeks, but in a way it will never be fast enough and disposable enough.
2/7/1977 A Yemeni woman, clad in heavy chador and veil, takes typing lessons as part of a training course in secretarial work and office procedures at the National School of Public Administration in San'a
[The only known color photograph of the writer Leo Tolstoy. Taken by Sergey Prokudin-Gorsky in May 1908, at Tolstoy's Yasnaya Polyana estate]
I'm a bit obsessed with this photograph. Looking at it, it's so palpable how a photograph can demystify all kinds of godly and glorious stuff. Tolstoy is this big and proud myth of a man, someone whose aura has expanded so wide by now, you can’t really imagine him in a body anymore. And suddenly he's sitting there in a denim shirt and grumpy face, causing a considerable earthquake in that visual reference drawer in my brain.
Anyone have a photo of da Vinci in pyjamas? or maybe Napoleon in a swimsuit?
Dr. Raufa Hassan
"In her [Raufa Hassan] project the Exhibition of State Dress and Codes of Identity in 2005, she looked at the dress of political leaders in Yemen including presidents, sultanates, princes, prime ministers and also women of high social status and analyzed their dress codes."
That exhibition sounds super fascinating.
Let me introduce you to the science of dress y'all. What an absurd idea, my heart beats to this.
The science of dress, edition Run DMC.
Great look on a student from the Smolny Institute for Noble Maidens.
Smolny Institute for Noble Maidens. Last graduates of 1917. "Smolny Institute for Noble Maidens – the first female institution in Russia, which marked the beginning of women’s education in the country. The Institute was founded on the initiative of Ivan Betsky, and in accordance with a decree signed by Catherine II on May 5 (April 24) 1764. The credo of the school was “to give the state well-educated women, good mothers, contributing members of the family and society”." "To enter the institute could only daughters of the nobles, whose ancestors were listed in the III, V and VI volumes of the book of noble families … . However, few of the nobles were willing to condemn their daughters to study continuously for 12 years, after which a hard question arose about the future marriage of over- educated girl."
Abkhazian hair-scapes.
Ann Demeulemeester
Burqas in Oman, powerful or oppressing? Or hot.
A Taste for Persian Carpets:
The world would look far different if a few more people had a drop more taste. In all horrors (for he does call them horrors), like lying, treachery, theft, and informing, he distinguishes a common denominator – such things are done by people with no taste.
The Last Shah’s 3rd wife Farah Pahlavi with their youngest children Ali Reza and Leila, 1987
Nadia Sablin's portfolio is really a great documentation of a typical post-soviet home environment, i feel very at home in these photos… I wonder what this type of dress is called in English – is there a word? The dress is usually made from colorful floral chintz, has the most basic cut with buttons in front and is meant to be worn as a generic housewife-at-work outfit… or in just about any occasion. In Estonian it is kittel.
More contemporary than neoprene – a couple portrait by Cindy Waszak