Precious Pixels, 19th July
We hosted a debate at The Conran Shop last week.
Precious Pixels set out to explore the use of digital technology in the luxury sector. The debate touched on a wide range of questions: how has digital been used in luxury so far? Are digital and luxury innately incompatible? What might digital-infused luxury products look like? Is digital better suited to the provision of service, rather than being part of products themselves?
The panel included five prominent figures from the luxury and digital sectors, and was chaired by Joe Ferry, the man behind Virgin Upper Class and guest experience designer at InterContinental Hotels. An invited audience of 45 contributed to the open discussion.
1. Are luxury and digital compatible?
Rory Sutherland, Chairman of the Ogilvy advertising group, started the debate with a thought-provoking observation:
It’s very hard to spend more than £40 on a bottle of gin, whereas you can easily spend hundreds or thousands on wine. Could digital simply be a gin, rather than a wine?
In other words: is digital innately mass-market?
Rory also questioned probed the concept of ‘luxury’ itself. Luxury is meaningless – the product of post-rationalising expensive purchases, and Darwinian display. Furthermore, there is a good body of psychological research that suggests that expensive things are desirable because they are expensive, more than anything else. Branded painkillers are more efficacious than generics, because of their expected quality.
By this analysis, buying expensive things is innately pleasurable, whether or not they are any cop. “The consumer surplus creates no pleasure whatsoever,” as he put it. Perhaps the low price of digital products is all that prevents them from being seeing as ‘luxury’.
Charlie Leadbeater, a writer and thinker on business and innovation, stressed the importance of provenance in luxury. This is something that’s difficult to achieve with digital: it is inherently amaterial, created anywhere by anyone, which no trace of a human hand.
But Robert Norton, founder of the s[edition] digital arts publishing platform, disagreed. He cited the Exquisite Forest, a recent collaborative animation project in the mould of the surrealist Exquisite Corpse, as an example of a technologically-innovative idea with clear authorship. s[edition] itself is another example.
2. What opportunities are there, and what needs to happen?
Lynda Relph-Knight, Editor of Design Week, asked a simple question: what examples of good uses of digital in luxury exist?
There was a consensus that there were few, if any – with the possible exception of home entertainment. Rory brought up Apple’s Retina screen as an example of tech maturity – the screen can resolve better than the human eye, so where next? Maybe this is where luxury starts.
Nancy Tilbury, one of the founders of fashion technology company Studio_XO, emphasised the opportunity digital represents for the luxury industry. Digital can provide personal, intimate experiences – especially in fashion.
Daljit Singh, head of Conran Singh, expanded on this theme with a concrete example. He suggested the idea of a pixel ring – a piece of ordinary jewellery in which the diamond is replaced with a single pixel. This pixel could could encode the ‘intimate information’ Nancy mentioned – for example, by shining more brightly on your anniversary.
Both identified an obvious reason for why this hasn’t happened yet: the right people aren’t talking to each other. “We need Marc Jacobs to hire coders,” said Daljit.
The panelists also agreed that an important role for digital lies in service. Roger Mavity, CEO of Conran, observed that luxury is often distinguished most of all by service – he cited the example of buying an Hasselblad camera, where an appointment is made at your office to demo the product, and there is a 24-hour helpline. Everyone agreed that digital could be used to make service propositions better.
Benjamin Males, also of Studio_XO, made an apt point: our vision of luxury digital products is limited by digital as experienced today, where technological limitations – processor speeds, hard drive capacities, clumsy interfaces – get in the way. Content and software are, more and more, shining through, and the invisible interfaces and ubiquitous technology just around the corner are sure to usher in a new age of digital luxury. Content and storytelling will come to the fore – much more familiar territory for luxury brands. Robert Norton brought up the joy of turning pages on an iPad for the first time – when it comes to these ‘sublime experiences’, we are really only just scratching the surface.
Suki Larson of Keep Agency, feeding back on the event, made a point which dovetails with this:
One aspect of the luxury industry that I have always liked historically is that it has not asked, "What does the consumer need?" and responded. It has been formed by individuals with an idea and a vision who put something out there and build a market around it.
In continuing this grand old tradition of luxury, digital designers may well surprise us all.