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The Colonial Pueblo of Filandia
The Colonial Pueblo of Filandia
I have been to a lot of pueblos in the coffee-growing region of Colombia. Some people might like the beach, others might like the cities, but me- I love the plazas surrounded by brightly painted colonial architecture and jade green mountain ranges. I’d take a bottle of aguardiente and a vallenato play list before a tropical daiquiri on the beach any day. I burn too easily anyway. A lot of people…
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Santa Fe de Antioquia
Santa Fe de Antioquia
During a three-day weekend, the nothern bus terminal in Medellín is packed with tourists. When I saw the crowds lining up for tickets, I almost turned around and headed back to the metro. The only reason I didn’t was that I had no alternate plan for the day. Thankfully most people were trying to get to Guatapé, which is in the opposite direction, so I only waited 45 minutes for my bus departure.…
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Nevado del Ruiz
On clear days I can see Nevado del Ruiz from my apartment. This highly active volcano usually has a dusting of snow and a thick plume of ash trailing off in the wind. The ash has the same blue-grey tone that dryer lint does. I know because I sweep it off my floors every morning. Nevado del Ruiz is one of three volcanoes in Parque Nacional Natural Los Nevados. It is the northern-most volcano and…
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The Colonial Pueblos of Barichara & Guane
The Colonial Pueblos of Barichara & Guane
It was a little bit of a miracle that we even made it to Barichara. Shortly after arriving, my sister made the grim realization that all the roads in Colombia are curvy and that she’s really prone to motion sickness. After suffering an excruciating 11-hour ride, in which I had to ask twice for barf bags, she made me swear we’d be flying to Manizales instead of taking the bus. It was a…
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The Colonial Pueblo of Jardín
The Colonial Pueblo of Jardín
Jardín is a small pueblo in the department of Antioquia. It is popular because of its cobblestone plaza filled with roses. In the evening a light breeze cooled the plaza and knocked yellow flowers off a tall white tree. For dinner I ordered a kebab and an arepa de choclo and sat down at a small table painted with diamonds. Shortly after sitting down, a woman briskly walked over to the table in…
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Parque Los Nevados
It is not easy to find information online about Parque los Nevados. Most sites direct people to day tours or overnight packages and it also doesn’t help that it’s such a large park with multiple entrances. After talking to a lot of people I realized that a guide is only needed to access some parts of the northernmost area around the very active Nevado del Ruiz. However, guides are not required…
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Semana Santa & Coffee Fincas in Salamina: Week 263
Semana Santa & Coffee Fincas in Salamina: Week 263
My second trip to Salamina was actually the very last trip for The Lustrum Project. I can’t believe how quickly the last five years have passed! Ever since my first visit I’d wanted to return. So when a friend came to town, it was the perfect opportunity to show her a part of Colombia that wasn’t exactly frozen in time but also wasn’t in a hurry to change. The old lady who sits outside the…
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Belalcazar: Week 262
Cristo Rey was completed during a tumultuous period in Colombia known as ‘La Violencia’. La Violencia began with the assassination of Bogotá’s socialist mayor in 1948 and plagued the next decade with acts of domestic terrorism, murder, and the destruction of property. I couldn’t find any information on how Belalcazar was affected by such a tumultuous period. However, the same friend who first…
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Sena Orientation: Week 261
Sena Orientation: Week 261
After a week in Bogotá, I was happy to be back in Manizales and ready to start the new trimester. When I started in 2015 there was only one other new teacher, so there were never any official welcome events. Since this was the beginning a new calendar year, there were a lot more fresh faces. So this time around, instead of getting our schedules and jumping straight into classes, everyone started…
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Recinto de Pensamiento: Week 260
Recinto de Pensamiento: Week 260
Since 1935, Recinto del Pensamiento has had several different names and purposes. It began as a shelter for avalanche orphans and over the years took on different educational roles. Aside from its current educational programs, the park also houses numerous gardens, a function center, hotel, restaurant, Juan Valdez Cafe, chapel, and office complexes. Of all the botanic gardens I’ve been to in…
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El Dorado: Week 259
El Dorado: Week 259
The legend of El Dorado originated an hour and a half north of Bogota. Many explorers lost their lives in search of wealth beyond all measure; I caught a bus with tasseled curtains for 8,000 pesos. What difference a few hundred years makes. The indigenous Muisca believed that gold was the vital energy of the Sun Father while lakes were the womb of the Earth Mother. By offering gold to Lake…
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Dance Classes: Week 258
Dance Classes: Week 258
The first time I went to a salsoteca in Manizales I quickly realized that dancing was serious business. The women I was with picked a table next to the dance floor, bought a bottle of aguardiente, and kept their eyes glued to the main entrance in search of dance partners. I’d thought us ladies would dance together until more people…
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The Goodlands Release: Week 257
The Goodlands Release: Week 257
What would it be like if people never died? I realized it was not a new theme in literature, especially in romance, but it still got me thinking. How would the government work? What would motivate people? Would culture be identified by nationality, by epoch, or both? What about despotic rulers like Hitler or babies that never stopped crying? Even if people never aged, would they slowly be worn…
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Quindío Botanic Garden: Week 256
Quindío Botanic Garden: Week 256
The butterfly-shaped mariposario is the most iconic building at the Quindío Botanic Garden, but it is just one of many sights to see. The 10 hectares of subandean forest is located in Calarcá and is easily reached by bus or taxi from the bus terminal in Armenia. It’s not possible to walk through the gardens on your own as several of the buildings are only accessible with a guide. Therefore, the…
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Cartagena: Week 255
Cartagena de Indias is a very hot Caribbean destination in Colombia filled with beautiful architecture and great restaurants. It was founded in the 1500s by the Spanish to protect their access and interests in the Americas. When it was constructed, the fortified island was divided into an inner city for the wealthier class and an outer city for the artisan classes. La Matuna and Getsemaní…
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Mompós: Week 254
The first thing people tell you about Mompós (or Mompox), is that it’s beautiful. The second thing they tell you is that it is difficult to reach. Difficult is even the name of a little vereda you pass through on the way to Mompós. The Magdalena River that created Mompós in the mid-1500s was also the cause of the wealthy town’s downfall. The river that once brought economy to the inland island…
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Curacao: Week 253
Curacao is the largest member of the ABC Islands (Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao). It has a much more European feel than Aruba, which could partially be attributed to the beautifully preserved UNESCO area of Willemstad. If you were to imagine a horseshoe pointing downwards, historic Willemstad would be the two ends. Both ends make for an impressive entrance to Schottegat Bay and are connected to…
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