I have a ball python that refuses to eat dead prey. I've tried frozen, thawed, someone even recommended I boil it, nothing has worked. A few feedings ago the mouse was able to hurt her, a big bite into her neck that bled. Now I'm worried next time might actually be life-threatening and I still can't get her to eat dead prey.
Lots of things wrong here. You should never ‘boil’ thawed prey, ew wtf, I don’t recommend that at all. I leave the frozen prey out in a bucket for about an hour at room temp and then warm it up with hot NOT boiling water before offering it.
But prey preparation is the least of the issue here. I’d like to gently remind you of the points I made in the corn snake post, just a day or so ago:
1) if a snake’s species-specific desired temperature ranges for hot and cold are not correct or correctly regulated, it will not eat
2) snakes can go months and even years without eating so it is not a concern that requires forcing them or trying to make them eat a live prey item
You have a ball python. They’re notorious for not eating for long periods because they’re a species that lives in termite mounds in Africa and rarely encounters prey. They’re made to not eat, in fact—look at the fat reserves on the body. If it’s a male, this is actually incredibly common during winter, as well, as males do not eat while in breeding season. So it’s fine! Don’t force your animal into a dangerous confrontation with a fully armed and toothed rodent because you have a human perception of when is healthy to eat!
Instead, check your environment. Ball pythons need a warm spot of around 90-95f, with a cool zone in the 73-75f range, and should ideally be housed in a cage around 3-4’ or more, with lots of hiding opportunities. They should have a heating device regulated by a thermostat, and you should be checking those temps daily when you go to clean the cage or check the water dish. Offer a humid hide as well, and be sure the humidity is reading 60-80% inside. Again, this is a fossorial (burrowing) species that lives inside of a giant mound of dirt in the wild, so don’t make the cage too barren or they will be stressed. Give them lots of hiding opportunities and areas to feel secure—fake plants, branches, etc.
If all of those options are met, and you’re double sure your temps are right, then just wait it out. The snake will eat when it’s ready to eat. Get a bag of appropriately sized (ball pythons should be eating rats, not mice, and the correct size of prey is determined by the size of the snake, check out MJ Python’s sizing guide on youtube) frozen rats and thaw one once a month using the method I described above to offer it. DO NOT BOIL IT. If the snake won’t eat, okay fine, you can re-freeze the rat one more time to try again next month, or if not, throw it away. Just keep those temps correct and the snake will eat in time. Like I mentioned before, this is a species that is known for this behavior and a quick google search of ‘my ball python isn’t eating’ will reaffirm that right quick.
I would also recommend doing some general care research while you’re at it, since getting a better idea of what your snake needs will help you to avoid trying all kinds of crazy shit in the future. Your snake is probably fine but stop trying to force it to eat live prey! It’s exceedingly dangerous and one day could end in your snake’s death—believe it or not, a scared, sharp-toothed little mammal can skeletonize a snake if the snake just resorts to its defense of curling into a ball. You’ve seen and been told by your snake that this is not the way. Get the habitat correct, and then try again, with a more well-researched approach this time. Good luck!









