Today's cosplay post is a tutorial! I sat down and put together a full breakdown on how I use fabric painting to get my cosplay details. In this world where it seems like everyone on the big social media pages has an embroidery machine, a desktop laser cutter, and a heat-transfer vinyl workflow, I feel like sometimes we need to get back to basics and understand how to achieve clean finishes without a $2k overhead.
Video is fully captioned using the script I read from (not auto-generated captions!) And includes timestamps for different parts of the process. I recreated Marcille's t-shirt from one of Ryoko Kui's illustrations in this video, but it's useful for way more than just shirts!
I've never tried my hand at video tutorials before so I hope this is helpful!
For people who don't know ANYTHING about Ibispaint ;3
(pink is for beginners, if you use ibispaint more often I recommend looking at the purple text (つ≧▽≦)つ)
[For reference here's some of my moodboards as I post them on a seperate account @ldshadowbeanz]
Open ibispaint and make a new project
[ I use the 1 : 1 you can change the size when you click on the part I circled with blue :D I personally use 1280 x 1280 if you want a custom size u can fill it in on the square at the top ^_^ ]
2. Go to table (count)
(click on filter)
(scroll the bottom row till you see frame and click on it)
(go to table (count))
3. Put the rows and columns to 3 (if you want a 3x3 moodboard that is) and adjust the thickness (marked part) to your own liking!
(I would like to add that the color I put is really light and I don't recommend this for now as it'll be annoying to paint bucket)
4. Color the squares on seperate layers (I recommend giving them different colors)
( ^ the colors aren't important just make them different :) )
[this is all we're gonna use but don't worry I'll explain them rn :D]
The + basically means adding a new layer to color on :3
The 📷 means adding a pic [duh]
The arrow pointing down is clipping, basically it only makes the layer above visible on the stuff the layer underneath has colored (it's really obvious once you teat it out)
The lock with an a in it is an alpha lock :D it makes it so you can color in something you've already colored (pretty similar to clipping just the same layer)
The 'normal' (album hehe) basically lets you set the blending (?) thing :D like overlay, soften, etc!
The trashcan is obvious I think
The + with the ends being arrows just lets you move stuff (and stretch stuff! + rotate and sizing)
The 🌓 basically puts colors in reverse! This is so useful please trust 🙏🙏🙏
The 3 dots basically add some stuff you can do with a layer including removing white of a layer! [Which is why we need 🌓 🙂↕️]
Not circled but we'll also need the 100% - ——— + thingy ! This changes the opacity ! :3
Add a layer using the +
[drag the layer underneath the table and with a bucket click on one of the white spaces, when you've done one add a different layer, click on the one next to it, add a new layer, and continue this till you've filled out all the squares on seperate layers ]
[To change color click on the black square in the middle of the bottom of your screen]
[drag the white circle to change color!]
5. add a new layer over the square you want to fill first ( I usually start with the middle one ), clip the layer and add a pic after!
(Click on the blue circle firs then the red one )
You can change the size and position with zoom, translation x and translation y or by dragging the pic :D
6. merge the clipped layer with the square (just click twice if you have an empty layer aswell
7. Repeat the steps 5 and 6 for all the squares!
If you want to change the color / vibe of a pic I recommend brightness and contrast or Hue saturation lightness in the adjust color section of effects!
if those don't satisfy you you can add an extra clipped layer with a color and set it to one of the following settings
[i use the blue marked ones but feel free to play around :D]
8. Change table color
just use alpha lock and color it in with a regular brush :D
9. Add cool overlays invert the color if the png /overlay you want to use has a black bg and a white body (?) and then click clear white (color) :3
First blue then red this only works if the overlay is white or black with a white or black background ^_^! If the bg is already white no need to invert color ofc
you can also squish things like this using the lasso tool
10. Final step!! Add a transparant png and add a stroke in the color of the table
use the water bucket tool, select the eraser and click on the white part :D sometimes it leaves white edges around the image. I suggest using a regular eraser for this :) [also if someone knows how to fix this please lmk]
Go to effects and scroll till you see stroke both :D then change the color to the one of the table and the size till you're safisfied :)
Facial Mapping Guide for Drawing Better Faces that took waaaay too long to put together..... (this is published on my Artstation linked on my LinkTree too in case the quality is too bad to see here)
My highly requested @aseprite tutorial for beginners is LIVE!!!
There are also some challenges in there for more experienced pixel art users to try out, and brush up on their Aseprite skills.
Check it out, let me know if it helps
Being a cosplayer is challenging for many reasons. Expense and flamboyant designs can be tough to deal with, but even if you go to that sketchy costume site to buy your costume there is one more challenge to face...sizing. As a tall and chubby woman, I’ve always found it nearly impossible to find my size. Even sewing patterns seem to have the problem of making “average” size ranges that don’t fit right. Anyway, the point of this tutorial is to teach you guys how to sew basic patterns to fit you!
NOTICE: If you like to buy sewing patterns and just adjust them to your size, that’s fine too!
Step 1: Break it down now, ya’ll!
The first step to any project is breaking down your outfit. I’ll be using my Litwick cosplay for this. I find it easiest to look at (or create) a reference, then draw it piece by piece on a separate paper. “Okay, so how do I know what is and isn’t a whole piece?” You don’t. Unless you find a very detailed character sheet, the number of pieces is completely up to you.
As you can see, I made views from the front and back. Colors and designs changed while I was sewing this cosplay, but such is art. Also, it really helps to look up similarly shaped clothing online to help you draw a flat of your clothing. Flats are exactly what they sound like, a 2D drawing of clothing. This is where you’ll lay down seams, buttons, and just get a general idea of the shapes you’ll cut out for your outfit.
Step 2: Shapes and Measurements
No matter what size it is, clothing will usually be made up of a few shapes. A size 4 shirt will be made of the exact same shapes as a size 26 shirt of the same type. With this information in mind, break down each article of clothing into basic shapes. The halter top on the top of my dress was made of stretch cotton with 4 shapes: collar, back left, back right, and front. I admit I altered this from a sewing pattern, but we’ll get patterns in a second.
The vertical lines with horizontal marks are seams. This isn’t necessarily a flat as much as it is a diagram, really.
Also, I live by measuring tape. It allows you to go around round objects (like literally anything on your body) without all the hard math! If you don’t have one, I advise either getting one or magically become capable of math. The rest of this tutorial uses measuring tape.
In the fashion world, there are basic areas for measurement. If you’ve ever gone to a tailor, these are the same areas they’ll measure on you to tailor your clothing. This picture will help you locate those areas.
Once you know your sizes and the shapes you’ll be making, you’re ready to start!
Step 3: Making your pattern
You have your reference, your flats, and your measurements. Time to mush them together and splatter them on some paper. I use wrapping paper with a grid pattern. Cheap, easy, maintains better than those cheap toilet paper-like sewing patterns from Joanns.
Always make a mock of your clothing with cheap material that’s similar to your costume fabric. Mock garments allow you to save good fabric and make alterations.
Patterns are actually a lot easier than they seem. If your neckline is supposed to go (comfortably) around your neck, measure your neck, divide by the amount of pieces you have. I had three pieces for the halter top. Because my front and back pieces were symmetrical, I just cut two pieces and split one down the middle. Why does that matter? It matters because it means I divided my neck circumference by two, then split it into three. If you measure the front piece both of the back pieces, it still adds up into the total of inches around your neck. If it doesn’t? Trim it down or re-math and re-cut.
For your bust and waist, take your bust and waist measurements and alter the shape to those measurements. Commit this to memory, you’ll use this technique for ALL of your measurements (or at least until you learn a more formal technique). Using a ruler, draw a vertical line on your paper that matches the length of your garment. Now create horizontal lines (starting from the middle number of your measurement i.e. 5 inches, line the vertical line up with 3) and draw a line matching the HALVED total of your neck. Measure from your neck to the center of your bust. Draw another horizontal line at the end. Next, use a ruler to draw the shape of your garment. I freehand curves and alter them as I go (HENCE THE MOCK MATERIAL). In general, though, it’s a better idea to use a curved ruler. The point is that you’ll want to hit every end point of your horizontal lines. Depending on your measurements and material, you may have a few curves in your originally straight, blocky, shape. That’s natural.
Now, the bust/waist/hip measurements are a bit...exaggerated, but I wanted to show that it’s perfectly fine to start with the small shape on the bottom and come out with a slightly curvy or straighter pattern.
Depending on your material and pattern, you might need to add darts to make a tighter fit. Darts are triangles or diamond shapes made on a pattern, that act as folds to make a garment more form fitting. You’ll want to test placement of your darts through your mock up. There’s a few places to place darts, but the places I’ve used them are: bust to armpit, stomach, and back.
Step 4: Sew and alter
If you’ve decided to make a mock first (as I so wisely advised) your next step is to sew your pieces together and alter them to fit better. Alterations could include: Adding or subtracting the size of your patterns, adding or releasing darts, planning for zippers/buttons/closures, etc. Once you’re happy with your mock garment, seam rip the pieces apart again and use them to alter your original pattern.
NEVER CHEAT YOURSELF QUALITY TO MAKE UP FOR LOST TIME. If you mess up and you have 3 days left until that convention just go without a costume! I know going to a con without a costume when you’ve worked so hard sounds heinous, but trust me, it’s better to make up for your mistake for a future con than to sew over it and pump something you’re not happy with out.
Ta-da! You have your own pattern to fit your body! Now you can sew up the real thing.
DIsclaimer: I am but a humble space slime. I cannot do more than simple math. I also admit that I have no formal training. This tutorial is how I taught myself to sew my own costumes. It took me years to perfect this technique. It’s a little long winded (probably a lot more steps and alterations than a pro would have), but I decided to put this out there for anyone who wanted to try their hand at sewing. Good luck you guys!
Pro tip:
The amount of pieces for the garment decide the size of which you cut them. If you have two pieces, a front and a back, divide your measurements by 2. If 4 pieces, divide by 4. ALWAYS ADD IN YOUR SEAM ALLOWANCE (.25 inches)
Pro tips:
If there’s belts and buttons galore on your costume (and you aren’t a COMPLETE perfectionist), just sew them down. Not every belt or button has to be functional.
More or less pieces depend on the effect you’re going for. If you have a few layers of shirts or jackets, it will save time (and you from heatstroke) if you just create the illusion that you’re wearing more than one piece of clothing. You could also create each piece and have that volume of multiple articles of clothing under that jacket. Your choice!
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