Weird ask, but I’m asking you since I know it’s your job and a passion. What are your thoughts on the no poo trend? I’m trying to wash my hair less often now; I used to do it every day (too often, I know!). I’m doing it every 2-3 days now and am brushing my hair with a boar bristle brush (and I love it because I feel like it’s something Sansa would do :D). I don’t think I’ll ever go all the way no poo, but I’m still curious about your opinion.
A hair question! OMG, I’m swooning! The thing about trends is that they can work really well for some and terrible for others. Every human being is different when it comes to how much oil or sebum their skin produces and thus how much cleansing they actually need. Climate and lifestyle are also factors. Generally natural oils are a good thing and it’s necessary to keep the skin healthy and in good working order. Moisture gives hair it’s flexibility and makes it less prone to breakage. Boar bristle brushes are great because they can hold on to some of that natural oil and bring it all the way down the hair shaft. There’s a reason you’ve heard about Victorian women given themselves a hundred strokes before bed (tee hee). It’s literally polishing the hair with the downward direction of the cuticle. I have made a joke before about Sansa having curly/wavy hair and the text says she brushes it and I’m just like...
Oh George! I was so immersed in the gritty realism until you had Sansa brush her curly hair. But I digress...
The right answer to how often you need to wash your hair is completely up to the individual based on the desired manageability without totally stripping it. As long as your scalp isn’t being made dry and irritated by detergents, I see no “wrong” answer. Curlier hair types tend to be a bit on the drier side. The theory being is that natural oils have a harder time travelling down a curved surface. Many curly haired people have said they have benefitted from a “no poo” method, because their already delicate texture isn’t being stripped further by more detergents. Also the friction of traditional shampooing isn’t there to rough up the hair and is supposed to help reduce frizz. Going hand and hand with that, people who go “no poo” also avoid silicones as they tend to build up in the hair without a detergent with some muscle to remove them.
Sometimes “no poo” means going totally natural like just water, baking soda, or a vinegar solution. Sometimes it means a product like a cleansing conditioner, which I liken to a make up removing cold cream. The former I take a little issue with because of the extremes of the pH which can affect the moisture barrier and how smooth the hair’s cuticle lays. Normal hair and skin pH sits between 4.5 and 5.5 to be healthy. Baking soda is at a pH of 9 (alkaline) and vinegar can be as low as 2.5 (acidic). I would rather someone use diluted vinegar solution than the baking soda. Acids help close the cuticle down, making the hair smooth and shiny, and seal in hair color. They still can be a bit harsh if they are way more acidic than skin and hair are meant to be. Professionals use alkaline products to blast open the cuticle to allow hair color in or reform the texture pattern. I find anything for skin and hair that is alkaline to be no bueno for everyday use. Products that are close to the sweet spot of 4.5 to 5.5 I find are less disruptive to the moisture barrier and cause fewer long term issues. If you color your hair, you want to keep the cuticle intact to keep your color from fading too fast.
Cleansing conditioners (or “co-washing” products) do contain some surfactants, but much less than traditional shampoos. Some contain none at all. Basically a surfactant works by having a hydrophilic side and a hydrophobic side. The latter binds to oils, which dirt and pollutants stick to. The hydrophilic side attaches to the flowing water and sweeps the whole thing down the drain. Sometimes I will use a cleansing conditioner before washing the hair if someone has a ton of product build-up. It can really break down layers of tough hairspray. But I always follow with a traditional shampoo. I do a double cleanse method when I wear make up. Oil remover to break it down, rinse, then a cleanser in the pH range of 4.5 to 5.5. Same principle.
The problem with using only cleansing conditioners is that they aren’t great if you have sebum build up in the pores of the scalp. It starts compounding and clogging if it doesn’t get cleared away regularly enough. There’s a well known cleansing conditioner that was sold in the U.S. that is now under a shit ton of lawsuits for causing hair loss. My guess is that in certain individuals that it can get impacted hair follicles if there’s no real cleansing agent to clear excessive sebum and oils away.
Like any beauty or hygiene product or method, your mileage may vary. There is no one right way or product for everyone. If you want to include a “no poo” method into your regimen, I don’t think there’s anything wrong with that. I would at the very least shampoo with a good low pH shampoo once a week. I’m a big fan of AG and Joico products for their low pH and many being sulfate free, which is great for delicate hair types and anti-fading. They’re great even if you don’t chemically treat your hair. Since I’m also into Korean and Japanese beauty products, I really love Lador Damage Protector Acid Shampoo.