#crochet wrap

[tangleduptabby-crochet]

Now in the shop! Green to brown ombre. Approximately 66 inches long and 18 inches wide. Cotton and acrylic blend.

Design: "Pecan Pie Wrap" by Lisa Cook

https://www.etsy.com/listing/4546436006/green-to-brown-ombre-wrap

[ezekiellsplayground]

During the Black Friday sales, I splurged on some cotton cakes from Hobbii. They only arrived a little over a week ago & I started up this Genmaicha Tea wrap using one of the limited edition colourways. I’m not sure if I want to keep this, but I am loving the sunset colours.

[wolfhollowcreations]

A new Openwork Wrap is now available!

✧ Material: 100% Acrylic Yarn ✧ Color: Anthracite Ombre ✧ Size: 84" x 20"

✧☾✧ Shop ✧☾✧

[Made using a pattern from Yarnspirations]

[cosmicgdesigns]

Peacock meets granny cardigan wrap - coming soon on cosmicgdesign.com

[fuzzycomfies]

it seems that for my first shawl and my first fingering weight yarn i have decided that i would like to suffer.

First I couldn’t find any reviews of the yarn im using other than “not very soft and breaks easily”(which i think its super soft and i literally nalbind with the normal united skeins and it’s actually harder to break than most wool yarns?)

Then all the shawls I was looking at were very either effeminate-leaning or not ADHD friendly.

but I found one that’s just. Hdcs, dcs, and chains(with fun variations like backpost and back line). And it looks really sleek and simple. I think it’s wearable as a gender neutral item. And idk i love it. It looks super simple to modify if i want more net like structuring and I’m just happy with it. (Lake Midnight Shawl on ravelry)

Two hours and this is what i got done. :3

[woolnhook]

Crochet Shawl Pattern - Brighter Later

Crochet Shawl Pattern – Brighter Later

Check out my latest crochet shawl pattern – Brighter Later!  It uses one yarn cake of gorgeously coloured Hobbii Cotton Kings Sultan/Twirl. 🙂 Continue reading

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[mooglyblog]

The Cobweb Wrap lace crochet pattern is convertible from skirt to shawl/wrap, and includes instructions for resizing for different yarns and gauges! Stunning!! ♥ Get the (paid) pattern at https://crochetenvy.com/cobweb-wrap-crochet-pattern/

[whompbiscuits]

~ The Hurricane Shawl ~ **Free pattern**

Hello everyone! It’s time to share my first official pattern! I had a lot of people express their interest on Instagram due to the unique shape of this shawl, so I decided to write up my process and share it with all of you! I would say a beginner could do this pattern as long as you were comfortable with increasing and decreasing stitches. 

This pattern is a 12 row repeat, but trust me, it’s a lot simpler than it looks. For the shawl pictured above I used one whole cake of Hobbii’s Twister yarn, but any fingering weight yarn will work. I recommend at least 1000 yards, but you can use any amount of yarn and make this shawl as big or as small as you like. I also used a 4.25 mm crochet hook (sometimes labelled as a G hook, but not always). If you don’t have this size, you could use anything from a 4.5 to a 3.5 and you’ll have a similar drape. Gauge does not matter for this pattern. This pattern is in US terms.

Click through the read more to get started!

Before we get started, make sure you gather the following materials:

> some fingering weight yarn

> a size 4.25 mm crochet hook

> a stitch marker

> a darning needle for weaving in ends

Some extra notes:

> This pattern increases in a pattern of 1, 2, 1, 2 every other row. So on alternating rows you increase by either 1 or 2 stitches. This keeps the shawl from being too long. To make the swirly hurricane shape, you increase on one edge and decrease on the other. It may help to use a stitch marker to mark one of your edges so you know which side you’re on. 

> To also help with shaping, the chain 2 at the beginning of every row only counts as a stitch on rows where you are starting with an increase. The slightly shorter starting double crochet that the chain 2 represents helps to bring in the increase edge, exaggerating the spiral. The chain 2 on the decrease edge is only for building height; it never counts as a stitch. 

Abbreviations:

ch - chain

dc - double crochet

st/s - stitch/stitches

sk - skip

sp/s - space/spaces

dc2tog - double crochet 2 together (decrease)

Pattern:

begin with a ch 3

Row 1: 3 dc in the 3rd ch from the hook (the 2 extra chs count as a st; 3sts)

Row 2: ch 2 (counts as a st), 3 more dc in st at the base of the ch, dc2tog over the last 2 sts (5 sts)

Row 3: ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), dc2tog over first 2 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 2 sts, 3 sts in the top of the ch 2 from the previous row (6 sts)

Row 4: ch 2 (counts as a st), dc + ch 1 + dc in first st, ch 1, sk 1 st, 1 dc, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc2tog over last 2 sts (8sts + ch sps)

Row 5: ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each dc and ch sp across, 3 dc in top of ch 2 from previous row (9 sts)

Row 6: ch 2 (counts as a st), dc + ch 1 + dc in first st, [ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc] 3 times, dc2tog over last 2 sts (11 sts + ch sps)

Row 7:  ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each dc and ch sp across, 3 dc in top of ch 2 from previous row (12 sts)

Row 8: ch 2 (counts as a st), 3 dc in first st, dc in each st across, dc2tog over last 2 sts (14 sts)

Row 9: ch 2 (does NOT count as a st) dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each st across, 3 dc in the top of the ch 2 from the previous row (15 sts)

Row 10: ch 2 (counts as a st), dc + ch 1 + dc in first st, repeat [ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc] across until you have 2 sts left, dc2tog over last 2 sts (17 sts + ch sps)

Row 11:  ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each dc and ch sp across, 3 dc in top of ch 2 from previous row (18 sts)

Row 12: ch 2 (counts as a st), dc + ch 1 + dc in first st, repeat [ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc] across until you have 3 sts left, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc2tog over last 2 sts (20 sts + ch sps)

The following rows make up the pattern repeat:

Row 13:  ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each dc and ch sp across, 3 dc in top of ch 2 from previous row (21 sts)

Row 14:  ch 2 (counts as a st), 3 dc in first st, dc in each st across, dc2tog over last 2 sts (23 sts) 

Row 15:  ch 2 (does NOT count as a st) dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each st across, 3 dc in the top of the ch 2 from the previous row (24 sts)

Row 16: ch 2 (counts as a st), dc + ch 1 + dc in first st, repeat [ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc] across until you have 3 sts left, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc2tog over last 2 sts (26 sts + ch sps)

Row 17:  ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each dc and ch sp across, 3 dc in top of ch 2 from previous row (27 sts)

Row 18:  ch 2 (counts as a st), dc + ch 1 + dc in first st, repeat [ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc] across until you have 2 sts left, dc2tog over last 2 sts (29 sts + ch sps)

Row 19:  ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each dc and ch sp across, 3 dc in top of ch 2 from previous row (30 sts)

Row 20:  ch 2 (counts as a st), 3 dc in first st, dc in each st across, dc2tog over last 2 sts (32 sts)

Row 21:  ch 2 (does NOT count as a st) dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each st across, 3 dc in the top of the ch 2 from the previous row (33 sts)

Row 22:  ch 2 (counts as a st), dc + ch 1 + dc in first st, repeat [ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc] across until you have 2 sts left, dc2tog over last 2 sts (35 sts + ch sps)

Row 23:  ch 2 (does NOT count as a st), dc2tog over first 2 sts, dc in each dc and ch sp across, 3 dc in top of ch 2 from previous row (36 sts)

Row 24:  ch 2 (counts as a st), dc + ch 1 + dc in first st, repeat [ch 1, sk 1, 1 dc] across until you have 3 sts left, ch 1, sk 1 st, dc2tog over last 2 sts (38 sts + ch sps)

And that’s it! Keep repeating rows 13 through 24 until you either get bored or run out of yarn, ending wherever you like! As you can see, the pattern you’re creating is 3 solid rows, a mesh row, a solid row, and another mesh row, over and over again. Just keep in mind the little differences in each row (that are only there to keep stitch counts consistent) and you’ll be fine. I ended my shawl after a third solid row, but you can end yours as you want. 

You’ll want to give your shawl a gentle blocking when you’re done, as this pattern does tend to curl a little on the decrease edge. So don’t worry if you see any curling, that’s normal. Here’s what mine looked like pinned out and blocking:

And here’s what it looks like being worn in a couple of different ways (modeled by my lovely and very patient wife):

And there you have it. Thank you to every one who gave this a read and good luck to every one who gives it a try! My submit box is open, so please send me pictures of what you make, and please please please let me know if you found any mistakes. This is my first pattern, after all. And while you’re here feel free to check out my various social media; links are in the side bar. 

Happy hooking everybody. ♥