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A Beginners Guide to Anti-Aging: New to anti-aging products? Ingredients, Routine, and Application Tips

The world of skincare is a vast and often overwhelming one where the process of purchasing the right products feels much like searching for needles in a haystack. By the time you hit your mid-twenties, your skin’s needs change, and you’ll likely find yourself tempted by bold marketing lingo that promises to “Lift and Plump!” or “Farewell Wrinkles!” The truth is, much like our hair colours, body shapes and personalities, our skin types are unique and individually effected by internal and external skin agers. Therefore, the manner in which we approach our anti-aging skincare routines should be personal and considered.

Skin care expert and Founding Director of UW Collective, Annabelle Personeni has engineered anti-aging products for Johnson & Johnson, Yves Rocher and A’kin. Annabelle explains that while we’re incapable of changing our genetic makeup, we do have sway over a number of external aging contributors, such as exposure to the sun, lack of sleep, smoking and diet choices. According to Personeni, a good anti-aging product “will contain high levels of antioxidants and will have a base which will deeply hydrate the skin and reinforce its barrier integrity.”

We’ve cut through the noise and compiled a basic guide on how to develop your very first anti-aging skincare routine – one suitable for all skin types.

THE FIVE PRODUCTS YOU NEED

In the simplest terms, every skincare routine (especially one targeted towards anti ageing should contain: Cleanser (and a double cleanse at that), an Exfoliant, Serum, Moisturiser, and the biggest essential of all: Sunscreen.

CLEANSER TIMES TWO

Cleansing contributes positively to our skin’s natural renewal cycle. Gently cleansing the skin both in the morning and before bed counteracts the havoc numerous external aggravators can play at a surface level; aggravators including pollution, indoor heating, dirt and makeup. Immediate signs of neglect often include clogged pores, an uneven tone, and dullness. Personeni advises, “it is important to choose cleansing products which respect the skin lipids, the skin pH and the natural microflora,” whereby the fewer additives your products contain, the better your skin will likely react. Opt for cream and oil cleansers in place of ‘soapier’ alternatives that tend to dry skin out (try Fresh’s Soy Face Cleanser or Dermalogica’s UltraCalming Cleanser). This first step will "melt" away the bulk of your makeup without stripping the skin. Follow up with a gentle cleanser, micellar waters work great, try Bioderma’s Sensibio H20 Make-up Removing Micelle Solution or Sisley’s Eau Efficace Gentle Makeup Remover.

TIP: Be mindful when cleansing your eye area. Skin is thin and your eyes are more susceptible to irritation if exposed to chemicals.

AN EFFECTIVE EXFOLIATOR

Exfoliating the skin two-three times per week takes the benefits of cleansing to a deeper level (literally and figuratively). While we often pinpoint the earliest sign of aging to be the development of fine lines, Personeni notes that it’s actually the subtle changes to the skin’s structure and colour that really play a part, whereby “pores become enlarged, the skin surface doesn’t reflect light as well, and starts to yellow”. For a cleanse that is effective without being rough and corase on the skin, try exfoliators containing Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), like Glycolic or Lactic Acids, also designed to clear away dead skin cells for an evenly pigmented complexion (Chemical Exfoliants: Breakdown and Product Recommendations) AHAs are proven to shorten the skin’s renewal cycle from 28 to 16-20 days, Personeni explains, thereby getting your skin fresher, faster. The trick is to incorporate an AHA-based exfoliator into your routine for a couple of months at a time only (for example, in the lead up to a special event), because eventually your skin will adapt and results will subside. Try Alpha-H’s acclaimed Liquid Gold or Wander Beauty Fast Lane Instant Facial

SUPER SERUM

Often misunderstood yet highly effective, serums are fine liquids designed to plump the skin and target unique concerns. Lighter in consistency than traditional creams and lotions, serums contain tiny molecules that penetrate the skin deeply, providing reparative ingredients to unexposed dermal layers. This process is especially effective when using thin water-based serums gently pressed (not rubbed) into the skin post-cleansing. There are umpteen serums available, so it’s helpful to first identify what it is you’d like to achieve for your skin before ‘Adding to Cart’. As a general starting point, Personeni suggests trying a serum containing plant extracts “which are rich in flavonoids” as they are good “’free radical catchers” and will help protect the skin against the effect of pollution and light”. A great product for this is Innisfree’s Green Tea Seed Serum. Once you become familiar with how a serum works and feels, take your time to research what ingredients will respond best with your skin.

TIP: ”To me, skin care is a tactile business,” Personeni says on her preferred application method. “Our hands know our face, and massaging the skin gently with our fingers and warm palm of the hand is a wholesome way to be in tune with our skin, feel the life in it, be one with it!”

MOISTURISER

Applying a moisturiser is often the first step we take in attempting to slow the skin’s aging process. We’re huge advocates of this, however it would be remiss to choose just any cream to apply. At the first signs of aging, Personeni recommends sourcing products rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory actives that “will help neutralise free radicals and pathways involved in the damage of skin’s vital structures.” Ultimately, you’ll see greater benefit from building the integrity of your skin at this early stage, rather than trying to reverse any pre-existing problems. Look out for moisturisers – whether in the form of a cream, lotion or gel – that contain any one or more of the following: vitamin E (to repair), vitamin C (to lighten), beta carotene/vitamin A (to divert UVA exposure), and Lycopene (to protect). “By keeping my skin at its optimal health level, it is in a much better position to defend itself against environmental damage,” Personeni explains. Try REN V-Cense Revitalising Night Cream to tick multiple boxes in one.

Got acne, but want anti ageing benefits? It’s also not uncommon to experience multiple skin concerns at once (particularly in your twenties while your body goes through varied hormonal highs and lows). If you’re one of many of us trying to stave off adult acne, search for creams containing Niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3 required by the body), like Olay’s Total Effects 7 in One Day Cream SPF 15 which is known to prevent acne while boosting hydration levels required to keep skin looking young. Alternatively, Personeni suggests tackling one problem at a time to allow skin to adapt to targeted products.

TIP: While we’re a big fan of oils, moisturisers often contain particles that are water-soluble and are therefore easier for the skin to soak up. Instead, consider applying oil on top of your moisturiser for a dewy finish.

SAVE THE BEST ‘TIL LAST, SUNSCREEN

You’ve heard it before and you’ll hear it again – there is no product more reliable to steer your skin away from the signs of aging than a sunscreen. This is essentially due to the fact that a trusty Broad Spectrum SPF containing protection against both UVA and UVB rays will deter light from infiltrating the skin. While a short kick of vitamin D is encouraged, prolonged sun exposure is not. Too much can disturb the reproduction of healthy skin cells like collagen and elastin (that keep skin firm), cause dryness and irritation, not to mention the risk of skin cancer development. While outdoors, choose products containing titanium dioxide or zinc oxide, which work to physically block the sun. And while many of us work indoors and feel we’re exempt from requiring a daily SPF, you’d be wise to opt for foundation and moisturising products containing even a small SPF rating, as light passing through windows and reflecting off screens can be just as damaging. “Foundation formulations are rich in particles to opacify and help cover imperfections,” Personeni says. “Particles do help shield the skin from the sun, but unless it has been tested for SPF, the protection is unreliable.” Again, consider products rich in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory actives, Personeni advocates, because they “quench free radicals generated by light, and limit damage to the skin.” We’ve been using Ultraceuticals Ultra UV Protective Daily Moisturiser SPF 50+ Mattifying for years.

TIP: “In regards to storage, I prefer to store my products at ambient temperature rather than the fridge,” Personeni admits, “as some actives can crystallize at low temperature. Best is to not buy too many products ahead of time!”

THE NICE-TO-HAVE’S (great additions to your skincare routine, but not necessary):

· Toner

· Oil

· Eye Cream

· Masks

· Facials and Cosmetic Treatments

LONG STORY SHORT…

Personeni’s advice: keep it simple. “It is best to have a regular skin care routine with low impact products rather than an erratic routine with episodes of high potency treatments.” Ultimately, the aim of the game when it comes to anti-aging is to keep your skin healthy, in much the same way you do for your body. Opt for products whose brand you’re familiar with, whose ethos you align with, that’s ingredients correspond to your skin type, and all in all, you’d be proud to house in your bathroom cabinet.

Shop This Post:

Fresh Soy Face Cleanser

Dermalogica UltraCalming Cleanser

Bioderma Sensibio H20 Make-up Removing Micelle Solution

Sisley Eau Efficace Gentle Makeup Remover

Alpha-H Liquid Gold

Wander Beauty Fast Lane Instant Facial

Innisfree’s Green Tea Seed Serum.

REN V-Cense Revitalising Night Cream

Olay’s Total Effects 7 in One Day Cream SPF 15

Ultraceuticals Ultra UV Protective Daily Moisturiser SPF 50+ Mattifying

Story by: Hannah Gay