#dr.1

[nocternalrandomness]

A replica Fokker Dr.1 Triplane in the livery of the Red Baron flying at the 2017 Selfridge Airshow

[mike13mt]

Fokker Dr.1 by DarekSiusta

[fokkerdr1buildlog]

Fokker Dr.1 Build Log

Build by Brian Colton , Piccadilly, South Australia

Kit by Model Expo, Miami, USA

Chapter 1: Introduction

The Fokker Dr.1 is arguably the most famous fighter aircraft ever. It achieved iconic status as the aircraft of Manfred von Richtfofen, The Red Baron.

There is a huge amount of information on the Dr.1 on the web. Wikipedia is a good starting point for basic information https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fokker_Dr.I

This is my second Model Expo build, following the Albatros D.Va, which introduced me to the pleasures and challenges of this line of kits. They build into a “skeleton” model, replicating the structure of the actual aircraft with total accuracy.

My Albatros D.Va model

(see https://www.tumblr.com/blog/albatrosbuildlog)

Having finished the Albatros, I’ll add some advice on building thee kits on the off chance that a prospective modeller reads this.

Tools & Supplies

I recommend that you have all of these. You could get by with less, but I wouldn’t recommend it.

Hobby knives - X-Acto or similar - and a good supply of blades as you should never use a blunt blade. I use a medical scalpel.

Razor saw - you’ll need this to cut metal tubes and rods without deforming the ends.

Tweezers and pliers and cutters - can’t have too many.

Pin vise and good selection of “micro” bits.

Mini diamond files - the metal parts need a lot of work.

Dremel tool or similar with a selection of accessories.

Finger nail buffers in various “grits”.

Abrasive papers in various “grits”.

Clamps - small through tiny - and electrical alligator clips.

Adhesive tape - single and double sided.

Cotton buds.

Dental micro brushes are very handy if you can talk your dentist into giving you some.

Head-mounted illuminated magnifier - some of the metal parts are extremely tiny.

Building board - mine is chipboard covered in cork tiles, has to take pins _ plus cutting board.

Silicone baking paper to cover plans on the building board.

Map pins and dress-making pins.

Bamboo skewers.

High quality paint brushes - cheap ones are a waste of money.

Metal primer and hobby paints. You don’t need an airbrush.

Adhesives - I build with cyanoacrylate adhesives (CA or super glue) in extra thin and medium thick, plus accelerant (kicker). If you use CA you will need acetone to un-stick parts and fingers. The instructions call for epoxy from time to time. It’s not necessary. People build huge R/C jets with CA. It’s strong enough for a static model. Less messy, too.

Adhesive applicator - i use a Glue Looper. Google it.

Kicker applicator - I find that a hypodermic syringe works best.

Blutack.

Your boxes of “stuff” - wire, plastic, etc, etc.

Small boxes to hold the metal parts after you take them out of their plastic bags.

Photos of details of “the real thing” from the internet for reference.

The Kit

This kit is certainly not one for the beginner. That being said, I’m no scale modelling expert and I found the build very interesting, often challenging, occasionally infuriating, but immensely enjoyable and rewarding. An experienced aeromodeller who has built a few wood models will be able to cope.

The drawings are excellent, but the instructions can be a little vague at times. The instruction manual is comprehensive, but not always completely clear. It is profusely illustrated with photographs and diagrams, but some steps required logical deduction and inspired guesswork to get through some of the trickier sections. 

The wood and metal are of excellent quality and supplied in generous quantities.

If you plan to stain the wood, do so before assembly. I used a cedar tint.

The metal castings need quite a lot of prep work and are quite soft. Test fit every one. It will need adjusting. Be careful as they bend and break easily. Holes will have to be drilled out.

There is no illustrated legend or key to identify the castings. This makes things more difficult than they need be and it would be good if this could be looked at by Model Expo.

There are some errors in the instructions.

Proceed with caution. Read each section carefully and in its entirety before doing any building. Test fit everything before gluing. This is especially important with the castings.

Try to anticipate the consequences of your actions and so avoid mistakes and rework - although some will be inevitable.

Check the kit contents carefully. If anything is missing or damaged - or if you break something or just lose it - Model Expo will replace it at no cost.

Use your imagination and make extra parts from scratch.

Take lots of photos as you go.

Have fun!

Chapter 2: Wings  https://fokkerwings.tumblr.com

Chapter 3: Fuselage https://fokkerfuselage.tumblr.com

Chapter 4: Tail & Controls https://fokkertail.tumblr.com

Chapter 5: Engine https://fokkerengine.tumblr.com

Chapter 6: Final Assembly https://fokkerassembly.tumblr.com

[nocternalrandomness]

A modern replica of the WW1 Fokker Dr.1 Triplane Fighter flying at the 2026 Australian Warbirds over Scone Air Show

[nocternalrandomness]

The Red Baron Replica

This replica Fokker Dr.1 Triplane is from the Great War Flying Museum in Canada. Built in 1982, it was specifically constructed to represent Manfred von Richtofen's feared fighter plane and is seen here flying a demo during the 2017 Selfridge Air National Guard Base Open House event in Harrison Township, Michigan.

[nocternalrandomness]

A Fokker Dr.1 Triplane replica demoing at Antidotum AirShow Leszno 2025

[fcba]

Manfred von Richthofen, the famous Red Baron of the German Luftstreitkrafte, climbs into his Fokker Dr.1. The Red Baron would go on to shoot down 80 Allied airplanes. (Photo)

[fcba]

An American-owned Fokker Dr.1 tri-plane replica rests on the flightline at RAAF Base Williamtown, Australia, surrounded by RAAF Mirage III fighters during an airshow in 1976. (Photo via the National Archives of Australia)