Sleeve the Best for Last
There are two ways to attach sleeves (that I know of).
Flat: the sleeve cap is sewn to the arm hole before the sides of the garment are sewn, then the sides of the garment and the sleeve seam are sewn up together.
Set-in: the side seams of the garment are already sewn, and the sleeve seam in sewn, then the sleeve tube is placed inside the arm scye and sewn.
The flat method is arguably the easier way to do things. You also end up with much neater seams around the armhole, because you can finish your edges flat. It’s an ideal way to work, especially for a beginner sewer.
That being said, I prefer the set-in method. My number one reason is that my major fitting issue in in the bodice, and the fewer stitches I have to rip out if adjustments are necessary, the better. I try the bodice on before the skirt and sleeves are sewn in, then at most, I have two 5-7″ side seams to rip (maybe some dart readjustment as well). It’s less stressful on me, and less stressful on the dress as well (fewer needle holes).
Determining Sleeve Fit
Once the bodice is fit properly, including comfortable non-gaping arm holes, fitting the sleeve is relatively easy.*
The keys to a well fit sleeve are: proper sleeve cap and bicep dimensions.
Sleeve cap is the length from the top of the shoulder (where your shoulder seams meet) to the bottom of the arm scye i.e. your armpit.
Your bicep measurement is the widest part of your upper arm, which is probably also the part of your arm that is parallel to your armpit/bottom of arm scye. Lastly, the length of the curve of the sleeve cap should be greater than or equal to the diameter of the arm hole. If the curve of the sleeve cap is less than the diameter of the armhole, your sleeve will not fit. Because: geometry.
Finally, if your sleeve is tight in the back or too loose in the front, then you can offset the ease of the curve of the sleeve cap so that your have more or less fabric.
The sleeve for Dress “T” is offset to have more ease in the back, at both the sleeve cap and down the whole length of the sleeve (which is then gathered at the cuff). This makes for a roomy sleeve with lots of room to move around in. I used this sleeve for Dress “S” and will probably use it again and again because I know it fits and I like how it looks.
Sleeve Modifications
Since I don’t want every dress I make to look identical, I have made a few modifications. I made the sleeves shorter because I’ll be wearing this shirt all summer and want something a little cooler. I need some sleeve to cover my upper arms because they burn within seconds of being exposed to UV rays. But hey, does anyone else get sweaty elbow pits? Because I do and it’s annoying so the less fabric there the better.
The other change I made was to the cuffs. The pattern calls for a sleeve cuffed with bias tape made from the same fabric as the neck facing. On this project I learned that eyelet fabric makes crappy bias tape. So instead I cut my strips on the grain, folded them in half and attached them to the cuff with a french seam.
On the left is the initial seam – for the best results with french seams, trim your fabric before turning it for the second binding seam.
On the right are the finished cuffs, including top stitching over the gathering at the bottom of the cuff. This probably could have been neater. Note again that my binding seam is a narrower stitch than my top stitch.
On the left is the initial seam – for the best results with french seams, trim your fabric before turning it for the second binding seam.
On the right are the finished cuffs, including top stitching over the gathering at the bottom of the cuff. This probably could have been neater. Note again that my binding seam is a narrower stitch than my top stitch.
Finishing Things Off
The big difference I’ve noticed working with Japanese patterns is that they don’t use the same pattern markings as EU or North American patterns do. I have to say that I like this very much, because I really hate transferring the marking from pattern to fabric. Especially notches. And in a lot of cases, if you are careful with your cutting, you don’t need the stupid things.
So for the sleeves, I marked which side was the back, and a line at the top where the sleeve cap is supposed to meet the shoulder seam. The other “mark” is of course the sleeve seam on the bottom, which should line up with the bodice side seam. Easy Peasy match up the fabric with a ton of pins.
Non-expert Tip! Remove the flatbed attachment from the base of your sewing machine to make sewing tubes like set-in sleeves less stressful.
My only other advice for sewing a set in sleeve is: make sure you remove the flat bed attachment from the base of your sewing machine. This makes it much much easier to sew inside the sleeve tube. You don’t need to shove the whole sleeve over the sewing bed, but that little extra give makes a huge difference and you won’t accidentally end up sewing other parts of your sleeve to the seam. If you are sewing on a machine that is set into your sewing table, I suggest lifting it out for this part.
Voila!
My lovely new breezy summer “T” shirt dress!
Since I made the skirt and sleeves shorter, and bought and extra half meter of fabric as usual, I have enough of the white cotton left for a non-dress project. I’m thinking either a tank top or bloomers.
Who am I kidding? I’m totally making bloomers. I’ll post that project in a few weeks!
*For sleeves that are as much as elbow length. I have not sewn longer sleeves yet, and understand that there are probably issues with fit around the forearm and wrist and maybe some twisting that I just haven’t gotten to yet. If you are having major issues, I suggest this article from Threads (which has links to even more great sleeve articles)
Finishing “T”ouches Sleeve the Best for Last There are two ways to attach sleeves (that I know of).
