#godets

[chic-a-gigot]

Le Petit écho de la mode, no. 50, vol. 38, 10 décembre 1916, Paris. Jeunes Filles en Promenade. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

No. 1. Grand manteau de drap forme droite à godets, orné de renard imitation. Toque russe en velours ou en breitschwanz tendu.

No. 1. Large straight cloth coat with godets, decorated with imitation fox. Russian toque in velvet or stretched breitschwanz.

Métrage: 4 mètres en 140.

—

No. 2. Robe manteau en drap ou en velours de coton. Ceinture de daim fermée par une boucle. Col et manchon de renard. Toque en velours drapé sur un bandeau de velours uni.

No. 2. Coat dress in cloth or cotton velvet. Suede belt closed by a buckle. Fox collar and sleeve. Velvet toque draped over a plain velvet headband.

Métrage: 4 mètres en 120.

—

No. 3. Costume de drap forme blouse russe boutonnée de boutons de drap. Ceinture en drap fermée par une boucle. Col, parements et bande en skungs.

No. 3. Cloth suit in the form of a Russian blouse buttoned with cloth buttons. Cloth belt closed by a buckle. Collar, facings and band in skungs.

Métrage: 2 m. 50 en 120.

—

Jupe ample à godets, ornée d’une bande de skungs. Grand chapeau breton en velours noir tendu.

Full gored skirt, adorned with a band of skungs. Large Breton hat in stretched black velvet.

Métrage: 3 mètres en 120.

[professorpski]

Godets a Go Go: Vogue 2066 by Federico Forquet

This Vogue pattern boasts that “FREDERICO FORQUET (For-Kay)--talented young Italian designer creates clothes with simple elegance.....” You may not have heard of him because he moved out of fashion and into interior design, but Forquet began by working for Cristobal Balenciaga and then opened his own salon in Rome in 1962. Despite much success through the 1960s, he shut the salon in 1972 and turned his hobby of decorating friends’ homes into a business. 

You see here on this dress a remarkable set of bias-cut godets playing with proportion. Godets are a slice of fabric, shaped much like a wedge of pie, which are usually found at along the hemline of a skirt in order to create flare for easy movement. These too are at the hemline, but they are lengthened considerably and shoot almost to the bustline.The result is a dress that is almost all godets which are further emphasized by the 2-inch horsehair which stiffens the hemline. In addition, the entire dress is underlined, again to give it greater body, and he recommended “crisp heavyweight fabrics” for the fashion fabric. Seam binding stabilizes all the seam allowances of the dress before the godets are inserted. 

Notice too how he refused to compromise the emphasis on the swooping lines of these giant godets, by setting the zipper into the side seam instead of creating a center back seam. All of which would have taken considerable  skill as befits a couture garment.

Both the photography and the fashion sketch indicate that he felt the need to move some of the attention up from this interesting hemline towards the face. The photography has the model wearing a tall white hat and a large brooch near the shoulder, and the sketch has the model wearing a tiered, elaborate necklace. Notice too that both have white gloves, an indication that this pattern came out at a time when formality was still required for public clothing for all occasions, but sports or country life. 

[salty-apples]

Adventures In the Classroom: Advanced Skirt Variation- Godets

Adventures In the Classroom: Advanced Skirt Variation- Godets

Hello Gotham City! The clown Prince of Crime is back! Just kidding. It’s just me. Lego Joker introduction aside, Hi! Welcome back to the Adventures in the Classroom show hosted by Yours Truly. I know, I know.  It’s the most watched show on television. We are raking in more viewers than the last season of Game of Thrones! We are still in the advanced skirt variation series and this week; we are…

View On WordPress

[chic-a-gigot]

Le Petit écho de la mode, no. 50, vol. 16, 16 décembre 1894, Paris. 1. Robe en drap beige uni découpé et velours cigale. Modèle de Mme Giacomotti, 3, rue du Marché-Saint-Honoré. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney

1. Robe en drap beige uni et découpé et velours cigale. — Jupe ronde formant des godets garnie devant par deux pattes de drap découpé, posées sur un transparent de soie et entourées d'une bordure de martre zibeline terminée par deux petites queues. Corsage plat du dos et froncé devant en drap uni, sur le devant grand empiècement carré bordé de fourrure et col droit, manche bouffante en drap découpé doublée de soie "cigale", poignet en velours.

1. Dress in plain and cut-out beige cloth and cicada velvet. — Round skirt forming godets trimmed in front by two tabs of cut cloth, placed on a transparent silk and surrounded by a border of marten sable ending in two small tails. Flat bodice of the back and gathered in front in plain cloth, on the front large square yoke edged with fur and straight collar, puffed sleeve in cut cloth lined with "cicada" silk, velvet wrist.

Matériaux: 6 mètres drap, 8 mètres fourrure, 1 mètre velours.

[chic-a-gigot]

La Mode nationale, no. 50, 14 décembre 1895, Paris. No. 16. — Dos du No. 17. No. 17. — Toilette de réception. Modèle de la Maison Fischer, 19, rue Louis-le-Grand. Bibliothèque nationale de France

Explication des gravures:

No. 17. — Toilette de réception. Corsage de brocart, croisé au bas de la taille sur un gilet de satin mauve lacé lui-même sur un plastron de velours violine. Petites basques habit derrière. Cravate Mercure, en velours et mousseline de soie. Ruches de velours faisant jockeys sur les épaules. Manches flottantes en satin mauve, à hauts poignets drapés.

Jupe de brocart, plate devant, à godets derrière, avec des petits panneaux de velours sur les hanches, ornés de petites pattes en ruban.

Devant, large bande, de satin mauve, se terminant en petite point dans le bas.

—

No. 17. — Reception ensemble. Brocade bodice, crossed at the bottom of the waist over a mauve satin waistcoat, itself laced over a purple velvet plastron. Small coat tails behind. Mercure tie, in velvet and silk muslin. Velvet ruffles making jockeys on the shoulders. Fluttering mauve satin sleeves, with high draped cuffs.

Brocade skirt, flat in front, godets behind, with small velvet panels on the hips, adorned with small ribbon tabs.

In front, a wide band of mauve satin, ending in a small dot at the bottom.

—

Métrage: 11 mètres de brocart; 4 mètres de satin mauve.

[professorpski]

Sew News, Spring 2022

Although it is threatening to freeze again where I live, spring sewing is now what we should be doing, and Sew News encourages it with a lot of cottons and short-sleeved designs.

On the cover you see a blouse with couching--the sewing down upon a fabric, in this case by hand, of a decorative cording. You can do this by machine as well if you have a larger area to cover. Also on the cover you see the little coin purses which you can make out of remnants.

There is also an article urging us not to create remnants by doing Zero Waste sewing which takes a certain ingenuity in pattern design but whose purpose always eludes me when it comes to the home dressmaker.  What is the difference between having extraneous bits of fabric hanging off my garment and collecting them in one of the boxes I keep for them? The difference between useless and useful is my answer. So my dog has a coat made out of 3 kinds of outerwear remnants, one of those remnants also lines one of his beds, one was also used to make a water-proof bag, etc. Using up scrap fabric is an old tradition, see crazy quilts, and one we should keep up, see the little coin purses.

Other articles offer useful alteration advice. Michelle Morris offers an article on how to alter a pattern to create tiers as you see in the yellow top and matching skirt. Kimberly Payne shows you how to alter a simple shirt pattern in various ways as you can see. Sadie Fox Metter adds a godet to a t-shirt sleeve to dress it up a bit. Godet = wedge of fabric shaped like a piece of pie seen from above. I like to use them instead of slits in straight skirts, but you can see they can give flare and space for the body to move.

In addition, there are technical articles on pleats, on flat-lock stitching, plus more alteration articles, and interviews with makers.  

Fine it at your local fabric store, newsstand, or online here: https://www.sewdaily.com/sewing/sew-news-magazine/

[professorpski]

Sew Chic: Gatsby Options

Sew Chic is an independent pattern company that offers the kind of detail you usually only find on vintage patterns. This new one for spring is a high-waisted skirt or trousers. If you haven’t tried on anything cut this way through the waist, it would be best to try something on in a store or muslin this one before you get started. Some people love the look, but some people find it feels odd to have the waist come up so high, and some really long-legged women through off their proportions when they put them on.

The skirt is fitted through the waist and hips, and to the point that it actually tapers in under the hips in order to flare out into extravagant godets. I would call this a party skirt as it will give quite a swish when you walk. The pants are the full trousers with wide legs which women wore before the skinny pants of the 1950s hit. Back then, trousers on women were for sports and resort wear or for cleaning out the barn, but now these would look great at the office. Both skirt and pants have pockets tucked into the upper edge of the gather found on the side front panels.

You can find it here online to purchase as a paper pattern or to download: https://sewchicpatterns.com/product/ln1923-gatsby-skirt-or-pant/

[fnielaubin]

#FNielAubin, j'y serai, avec les plantes de mon jardin.☺️