BABYLONIAN KANASU STEW (c. 1740 BC)
It's been rainy today, and this calls for a warm meal. Today, it is another Tasting History dish: Ancient Babylonian Kanasu Stew (c. 1740 BC), a lamb stew from the era of King Hammurabi of Babylon (known for issuing the Code of Hammurabi, one of the earliest and most complete written legal codes, which established "an eye for an eye" justice). This recipe is one of about 35 different recipes inscribed in cuneiform script on clay tablets found in the Yale University Babylonian Collection. Written in Sumerian, these tablets are among the earliest known cookbooks in history, and would have been used in the temple kitchens to make dishes for royal banquets and religious festivals. While ingredients and some cooking techniques are listed, precise measurements and step-by-step instructions are not included, as it was assumed the cooks already knew how to fill in the blanks. The meanings of some of the Sumerian ingredients listed, particularly kanasu, samídu, and šuhutinnu, are not yet completely clear, as scholars have not agreed upon their definitive definitions. For the purposes of this recipe, kanasu is translated as emmer flour, and samídu and šuhutinnu stand for a root-style vegetable, in this case interpreted as leek. These interpretations of Sumerian words, as well as the specific ratios of ingredients and cooking methods, are, of course, up for debate. Still, the combination of ingredients sounds like it would be delicious, and I absolutely loved the last Mesopotamian dish I made from Tasting History, so I was excited to try this one too. See Max’s video on how to make this dish here or see the ingredients and process at the end of this post, sourced from his website.
As I usually do, I halved the recipe - this time because my husband was not home for dinner, and I was worried to have too much as leftovers. The fat I used was olive oil, just because it was what I had on hand. For the meat, I secured two lamb shanks, already de-boned, from the local butcher. Otherwise, I used the same ingredients listed in the recipe, including the emmer flour, which I had to go to a special Bio-grocery store to purchase.
I began by preparing all of the ingredients ahead of time: measuring out all the ingredients and chopping those that needed it. By accident, I chopped the whole leek, including the dark green parts at the end, and I used them for the stew as well, even though Max mentions only to use the white and light green parts. My mistake! I ground up the whole coriander seeds and cumin seeds with a mortar and pestle, which smelled divine! Coriander is such a wonderful, fragrant, and tasty ingredient. Next, I got out my large pot, warmed some olive oil, then added the lamb chunks in, turning to brown them on all sides before removing them and setting them aside in a bowl to add back in later. The lamb had left behind some extra grease, so I added more of the olive oil to this, then fried the shallots in it. I sprinkled a bit of the salt on them and stirred them around as they bubbled and seared. It smelled great, and I could see the shallots caramelizing just slightly. As they began to leave a brown residue stuck to the bottom of the pot, I added in half the water, and scraped the bottom of the pot to loosen the residue, deglazing the pot. The residue and fried shallots gave the water a cloudy, light brown colour, similar to beef broth. I stirred in the rest of the olive oil required, then also the salt, ground cumin seeds, and ground coriander seeds. Then, I poured in the rest of the water and whisked in the emmer flour well so that there were no clumps. It was beginning to look like a cloudy soup. Bringing the pot to a light boil, I added the lamb back in, then also the garlic. Turning the heat to low with the lid on, I let it simmer for half an hour, going back to check on it and stir every ten minutes or so. While stirring is not mentioned in Max's recipe, it really did need it, otherwise the emmer flour goop would accumulate along the edges of the pot. I did not add any extra water, because I wanted a thicker stew consistency in the end, instead of a soup consistency.
After 30 minutes had passed, I added in half of the leek and most of the mint, then I let the stew simmer without a lid for 10 minutes. This was what caused it to thicken to a proper stew consistency. Once the 10 minutes had passed, I stirred in the remainder of the leek, then ladled the stew into two bowls (one dinner-sized one for me, and a small snack-size one for my husband to have when he got home later). I was surprised that halving the recipe did not produce two serving portions, as it usually does when I halve Max's Tasting History recipes. For this recipe, I wish I had made the full amount. I used the rest of the mint to garnish the stew on top, along with a pinch of whole coriander seeds (these are fairly strong in taste, so it is important not to add too many). The stew looked very much like a classic winter soup or stew, with the green leeks bringing some much needed colour to the mostly brown broth and meat. It smelled of fresh herbs and spices, which made sense, since it contained both!
My experience tasting it:
I made sure my first spoonful contained a bit of lamb, a bit of leak, a bit of mint, some broth, and a couple whole coriander seeds. The flavour was fantastic! So hearty, warm, savoury, and somehow also fresh-tasting. I was surprised to discover that the lamb was perfectly tender; I thought stew meat normally needed a much longer cooking time to achieve this. What a pleasant texture! The leeks were also nice, as they varied in amount of crunch depending on how long they had been in the stew. The shallots blended almost seamlessly into the brown broth, but it was clear they added a lot of flavour. Most of all, I was impressed with the fresh and zingy taste of the coriander, and partially the cumin and mint. All of them together brought a wonderful freshness to the stew, which otherwise would probably feel heavy and too fatty. Another surprise for me was how well the emmer flour worked to thicken the stew. The texture was silky, and coated my spoon well. I've never used emmer flour before, so I was not sure if it would be easy or difficult to work with. I loved this recipe as much, if not more than the previous Mesopotamian recipe I made, Tuh'u. After finishing the Kanasu Stew, I immediately wrote out the recipe on a card for my recipe book. My husband, when he tried it later, also really liked it and asked if I could make it again sometime, and I undoubtedly will! This recipe is a true winner, and I'm excited to share it with family and friends. If you end up making this dish, if you liked it, or if you changed anything from the original recipe, do let me know!
Kanasu Stew original recipe (c. 1740 BC)
Sourced from a recipe from the Yale Babylonian Tablets (c. 1740 BC) and Max Miller’s version in his Tasting History video.
Kanasu Stew
Leg of mutton is used. Prepare water, add fat. Samídu; coriander; cumin; and kanasu. Assemble all the ingredients in the cooking vessel, and sprinkle with crushed garlic. Then blend into the pot šuhutinnu and mint.
Based on a recipe from the Yale Babylonian Tablets (c. 1740 BC) and Max Miller’s version in his Tasting History video.
2 tsp coriander seeds, plus a little more for garnish
1 1/2 lbs (680 g) lamb meat**, cut into bite-sized pieces
1/4 cup (30 g) emmer flour
2-3 cloves garlic, crushed
*A popular fat at the time would have been from fat-tailed sheep, so if you can get it, use it. Tallow, butter, lard, sesame oil, and olive oil are all period-accurate options.
**You could use any cut you like, but shank or shoulder will be the most tender. Pre-cut stew meat would also work well.
In a mortar, grind the coriander seeds and cumin seeds into a powder.
In a large pot, heat 1 tablespoon of the fat over high heat, then once it’s hot, add the meat. Let it cook for a couple of minutes, then move it around and continue to cook until it has browned a little. Remove the meat from the pot and set it aside.
Add another tablespoon of fat to the pot. Reduce the heat to medium and add the shallots and a pinch of the salt. Stir to coat the shallots in the fat, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 to 4 minutes, or until they’re nice and fragrant.
Add half of the water and scrape up the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Bring it to a simmer, then stir in the remaining fat, letting it melt if it’s a solid. Once it’s melted, stir in the ground coriander and cumin along with the rest of the salt. Whisk in the rest of the water and the emmer flour. Once all is uniform, bring the stew up to a boil and stir in garlic and meat.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and let it come back to a simmer, then cover it and let it cook for about 30 minutes. Check on it every once in a while and add more water if you want a thinner soup-like consistency.
While the stew cooks, chop the mint and the white and light green parts of the leek. I like to wash leeks before and after chopping them to be sure to get rid of any bits of dirt or sand stuck between the layers.
After the stew has cooked for 30 minutes, remove the lid and stir in about half of the leek and most of the mint. You want to save a little of the mint for garnish. Let the stew cook without the lid for about 10 minutes, or until it has thickened however much you like.
Stir in the rest of the leeks, then serve it forth with a little mint and whole coriander seeds for garnish.