Round 1, Match 159 — Herki vs. Craftcore
Herki (Херки, singular herka) is a Russian slang term for a youth subculture that emerged in the late 1990s, defining a cohort of young people (typically girls aged 12 to 17) who adopted a simplified, commercialized version of the goth aesthetic. The term originated as a jocular name for the devoted fan base of the Finnish band HIM (His Infernal Majesty). Because HIM released discs in the US under the abbreviated label "HER," fans began referring to the female admirers of the group by this "feminine" name, creating a strong initial link between the band and the aesthetic. The aesthetic is characterized by the perceived dissonance between the wearer's youth and the dark and aggressive imagery they adopt. While often sharing superficial fashion elements with the North American counterpart of Mallgoth, Herki is a distinct regional phenomenon with its own internal terminology, specific musical idols, and unique visual tropes tied to Russian internet culture. The Herki uniform is a simplistic and easily accessible representation of goth fashion, frequently combining black netting and red accents. The attire often consists of a black mesh or netting, which is intentionally paired with items like violet or burgundy skirts that are then wrapped in black tulle. Jewelry is often composed of simple gothic ornaments and black wristbands. The most iconic piece of apparel directly associated with the core fandom is the "Шапка-виллевалка" (Ville Valo beanie), a black knitted hat styled after the headwear often worn by the HIM vocalist. Though less common today, wearers once utilized long black pseudo-Victorian dresses, often humorously noted for being cumbersome. Makeup is a major component of the aesthetic, specifically the aggressive use of black eyeliner applied heavily, often resembling the exaggerated eye makeup of a panda. This is sometimes paired with white powder to achieve a pale complexion, mimicking the "corpse paint" of Black Metal, which Herki adherents often mistakenly label as "Goth." The Egyptian ankh (a symbol of life and fertility) is the most common piece of jewelry, revered as an especially gothic sign. A unique and frequently satirized element of the aesthetic is the frequent practice of photographing oneself against Soviet-era apartment interiors, often featuring the infamous "бабушкиного ковра" (grandmother's carpet) and dilapidated surroundings. This satirical juxtaposition of expensive, stylized dark fashion against a mundane, "low-brow" interior is a main visual motif of the aesthetic in the Russian context.
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Craftcore is an aesthetic in fashion and interior design that celebrates the visual appeal of handmade craftsmanship and traditional techniques. Rather than being defined by the act of crafting itself, the aesthetic is characterized by the finished look of items that prominently feature visible handiwork such as crochet, patchwork, chunky knits, embroidery, and quilting. The trend gained significant mainstream attention around 2020, partly as a response to the global COVID-19 lockdowns which renewed interest in domestic hobbies and slow, mindful processes. Craftcore uses garments that showcase the artistry of their construction. The aesthetic was brought to the forefront by a new generation of designers and has been featured on the runways of legacy labels like Chloé, Valentino, and Dior. Key looks often feature traditional yarn crafts, including chunky and colossal knits like the oversized sweaters popularized by Hope MacCaulay, as well as visible crochet trims and detailed embroidery. Patchwork and quilting are also central, with brands like Bode and Chopova Lowena creating signature pieces from vintage quilts and repurposed fabric remnants. The aesthetic also incorporates other techniques like beading, macramé, and artisanal tie-dye to create unique "one-of-a-kind" pieces. In home decor, Craftcore emphasizes creating a personalized and soulful space through handmade objects. This involves a fusion of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design sensibilities. The aesthetic is expressed through decorative items that carry the touch of a human hand, such as hand-painted vases, handmade pottery, and tufted rugs or mirrors. Textiles are also central, with items like quilted blankets, patchwork cushions, and macramé wall hangings used to add texture and a sense of warmth and authenticity to a room, in direct opposition to the uniformity of mass-produced decor.
Which aesthetic do you prefer?
Herki
Craftcore
