#hnwhite

[dansar04]

Red & Blue.

Suit from Belvest, shirt from G. Inglese, HN White tie, ps from Vanda and shoes from Crockett & Jones. Scent: Heeley Zeste de gingembre.

Also check out our website: Diplomatic Ties.

And if you are interested in music, check out: All Kinds of (Good) Music as well.

[repeat-business]

I’m fortunate to have some very generous friends, one of whom basically gave me this @cesareattolininapoli glen plaid. And this amazing madder from @hnwlondon really pulls the reds in the shirt, square and suit overcheck together. Store link in bio #style #dd #menswear #mnswr #myoutfit #mensfashion #mensfashionpost #ootd #outfit #ootdmen #outfitoftheday #wiwt #whatiwore #whatiworetoday #mensstyle #styleblogger #PTOman #me #kamakurashirts #hnwhite #shibumifirenze #cesareattolini #pantherella #gazianogirling https://www.instagram.com/p/B4lBjjapb96/?igshid=gdp1f8w6k07z

[hnwlondon-blog]

Free worldwide delivery for our Instagram followers using the code ‘freeship’ on checkout #menswear #hnwhite #handmadeinengland https://www.instagram.com/p/Bn-yslbHnYF/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1o3po7q2yogb

[woollenhulls]

Review: H.N. White Summer Ties

Winter cloths are celebrated for their variety, texture and depth. Brushed flannels and rough tweeds, originally strictly country clothes, are now established parts of the menswear winter repetoire. Whether for suits or accessories, textured cloths have more personality than their smooth business counterparts. They provide interest while remaining subtle. And they more comfortably straddle the line between formal and casual in the ever-increasing number of suit-optional environments.

The summer wardrobe is doubly disadvantaged: heavy, textured cloths are discouraged by both the temperature and seasonal conventions. Cotton and linen suiting are decent alternatives to wool flannel, but neither offer the same slightly chaotic personality as tweed. One comparable material for ties is raw silk.

Silk contains two principal proteins, fibroin and sericin. The former forms the central bonds of the silk thread; the latter is a gummy wrapping around it. Typically sericin is removed by boiling the silk before spinning. When it’s left unprocessed, silk is considered to be  ‘raw’. Raw silk is harder to spin, and produces inconsistent, richly textured cloth, often termed shantung. Unlike woollens, raw silk is light and crisp, but it has the same erratic surface and rich tones.

Continuing his project of collecting and championing fabrics from around the British Isles, H.N. White has been working with a Suffolk mill to create an English version of the raw silk cloths typically woven in Como. You can see sample swatches of the Suffolk cloth above.

To my eye it’s a little neater than the Italian counterparts: the fabric is slubby and inconsistent, but there are no pills of silk actually hanging off, as you see with some Italian raw silks (which can occasionally look more like the work of an enraged cat than specialist milling).

I recently had the chance to try one of Harry’s ties, a blue and gold block stripe in the new cloth.

Ties are a deceptively simple product. They have few ingredients (being only fabric, interlining and thread). There are relatively few objective markers of quality: the fabric of course, the interlining (pure wool), the stitching (a single slip stitch down the back, to give some flex, and any elements of edge finishing), and the cutting of the cloth pattern from the roll.

Yet few ties are this polished in their execution: the hand-rolling is exceptionally neat and tight. I’ve tried doing this kind of stitching occasionally and it’s doubly difficult with a rough fabric. The tie gives a good knot and relaxes easily afterwards. The new presentation boxes are a nice touch: rigid enough to keep ties uncreased in transit, elegant enough to work as gift boxes if you’re buying for someone else.

Whether you like the raw silk effect will partly be a matter of taste: it’s certainly messier than your standard silk twill, and some won’t like that. But to my eye it’s a great variation on a classic design. The block stripe has its origins in military regimental ties, but the texture clearly differentiates this one.

If you’re in that space between consevative business uniform and a casual office, these ties are a fine summer alternative to a thick cashmere herringbone. Rather than resorting to an unusual colour or shape, it differentiates itself when viewed up close with an extra layer of surface interest.

Speaking of shape, this is the traditional 9cm width, but 8cm models are also available. There are five colourways of block stripes available, plus a solid blue. At £85, they’re also cheap for a made-in-England tie in an exclusive cloth. For summer texture, they’re strongly recommended.

H.N. White supplied the product without charge for this review. As always, the review is unsponsored and written without external editorial direction.

I discussed H.N. White woollen ties in a Parisian Gentleman article last year.

[dansar04]

Diplomatic Ties part 508: HN White.

Suit from Belvest, Canali shirt, tie from HN White, Berg & Berg ps and shoes from Morjas. Scent: Heeley Cardinal.

Also check out our website: Diplomatic Ties.

And if you are interested in music, check out: All Kinds of (Good) Music as well.

[dansar04]

Cashmere in Blue & Brown.

Suit from Eidos, Kiton shirt, tie from HN White, noname ps and shoes from John Lobb. Scent: Montale Black Aoud.

Also check out our website: Diplomatic Ties.

And if you are interested in music, check out: All Kinds of (Good) Music as well.

[dansar04]

Diplomatic Ties 478: HN White.

Coat from Eidos, Fallan & Harvey suit, shirt from Inglese, HN White tie, ps from Poszetka, John Lobb shoes and a scarf from Begg. Scent: Guerlain L’Homme Idéal Extrême.

Also check out our website: Diplomatic Ties.

And if you are interested in music, check out: All Kinds of (Good) Music as well.

[dansar04]

Stockholm - The Calm Before The Storm I. 
Pics taken in Stockholm a few weeks back. Suit from Eidos, Zegna Couture shirt, tie from HN White and shoes from John Lobb. Scent: Monsieur Balmain.