“He po uhe’e i ka wawa -- Darkness slips into light”
There was a time, when there was only darkness It came first, before all. Then light came and the creation of these islands and all the things that have lived on these islands, were told and passed down in one great chant.
In this place, things can be more than what is seen in the basic forms of reality, thought and reason, and the other world, a realm of spirits and gods. Below the facade of smiling tourism and plastic flower lei, there is a strength and ancient quality. There is an eruption of history and a longing from those that were before us. The bones and the mana of those that have come here and never left these islands in the middle of the Pacific. They wait to grab at you, if you present the opportunity.
There are two worlds, the one where we all stand with our feet firmly planted to the ground, and another world, where the gods and spirits remain. They reach up towards us, and we unknowingly linger. They wait for our descent back down to their domain. This is the world where things are known to be true, our world is only an illusion, created to keep our children from living in fear. There is a power that can be felt, and if you feel it too, then you might not be so lucky.
For those unfamiliar, you will undoubtedly travel, and walk the land. Any place you visit never really forgets you, once you let yourself be known. It will have a hold on you and this hold can be dangerous. But this of course depends on how you present yourself to it. The souls and the mysterious of those that came and never left, because they were tied to this land and to the spirits, will reveal themselves to you, if you want it.
The jagged mountain cliffs and steep valleys were traveled before by those more skilled than you, more desperate than you, and with more knowledge than you, and so we respect them. That land is still wild and unkept, we cannot control it, and so we respect it too. The oceans are beautiful and can be serene, but don’t be mistaken, this is how they lure you in. We never turn our backs on it, we respect it. You must always respect things that you cannot control.
The wars for land and status, left the earth soaked with blood. There are some places that you shouldn’t let your blood reach the ground, unless you want to be tied to to that place too, like the thousands that were slaughtered in the name of conquering.
This place where there is a eerie feeling from the surrounding density of green, and the way it presses into you, heaving in an out, like a pair of lungs. This place where there are quiet eyes of people following as you walk past, and you watch where you walk, so that they look upon you kindly. This place where natural water flowing is known to have a moʻo kane or moʻo wahine guarding it, so you walk around, and not through. This place where one knows not to take anything without asking, and that there are things that shouldn’t be touched at all, because every stone has its place and it will become unhappy if moved.
This place where your feet will burn on Moku Nui if your name resembles that of Namakaokahai, the rival sister of Pele. Or where you cannot enter unless your moʻokuʻauhau is stated and you can trace back proof that someone in your family once resided there. This place where it is known not to fish at Mokuleʻia at night because of the spirits that wander the beaches, or the nearby Kaʻena point where the souls travel to jump to their afterlife. Where you must always pick up the old woman with a white dog if she is on the side of the road alone, because you don’t know who she could be.
There are many places that were deemed sacred long ago, that no longer are looked at that way in our world. “O ke akua ke komo, ‘a ‘oe komo kanaka -- The god enters, man cannot enter.” Paths walked with purpose by ancient people, are now walked by any common person with a camera. There is more than meets the eye, this land is more than just beauty. It is creation itself. If you listen closely enough, you can hear the whispers of disapproval. The birds will watch, and they will signal to others that you are in a place that is kapu. The land will remember how you behaved, so if you must travel back later, it will decide how to treat you accordingly. It’s up to you to act in the right way and be cautious of where you place your feet.
These islands are made up of liminal space. There is a constant potential of in-between places, where a fog of uncertainty can confuse and lose you. We are always between these two worlds, of the familiar and the unknown. There is no longer a balance in these spiritual ecosystems, it was held delicately in the past, but now ancient things will roam where they please, in forms we may not be able to recognize. In this there is great danger.
This land takes a hold of you, and transforms you, if you would learn to let it and wait. It holds you where things are no longer, and yet to be. There is a leina ka ‘uhane here, a leap of the spirits, of the gods, into the next world. Here is where the threshold lies, it is the gateway where the worlds converge, just make sure to close the door once you’ve passed through.