#on30

[bvlcorr]

Some photos from today's running session. Number 17, my most recent build, takes its first train in revenue service. A small supply run up to logging camp B and back again.

[krazyjoe]

Parts of my On30 layout. I drew up the plans and hand built every on this layout.

[duskypines]

Recently gave my on30 porter a lil’ woodpile in its cab

[eltristan]

Antique photo (1910's?) showing a modern farm tractor being delivered via one of North America's oddball 30-inch gauge railroads, the Pacific Coast (Ry. & Steamship Navigation Co.) narrow gauge line...

[thesaucymerchant]

In which Saucy continues to make excellent use of their time and money

[thesunsetempire]

A finished On30 Plow for a longtime client. It arrived almost destroyed, mishandled in the mail, and I carefully brought it back to life and gave it a few coats of different shades of yellow paint to give it some history. 

Improvements included building and soldering a brass headlight bracket for the headlight, which the flimsy cast resin cleats had been obliterated in transit. 

[interurbanera]

Another rescue from mailing damage, this On30 Shay is a conversion from the Bachmann HO shay offered 20 years ago. Weathered with a generous amount of soot from the coal burning inside its firebox makes for a more unique look in contrast to the rest of the woodburners. Also a first outing of AK Interactive’s “Fuel Stains” liquid to mimic the oily grime found on shay drives. 

[bvlcorr]

Do you have any tips for scratchbuilding?

Thank you for asking.

The first thing I'd say is to make sure the locomotive runs well. That it has a good chassis and smooth motion. I've had a couple where I didn't, so they ended up looking okay but running poorly.

It helps to have a good idea of where the project is going. Unlike a 3D model on a computer, making a scale model doesn't have an 'undo' function. Parts can be removed, but they'll leave glue marks. These can be removed, but it'll be tricky. Knowing where you're going also saves time and money, as you can focus just on what you need.

For example, my latest build (which I haven't posted here yet) was to make a 'On30 SW9'. With this clear goal, I was able to take a HO model of an SW9, identify what I needed to do to make it an On30 model (new cab & running board) and figure out the steps needed from there.

Having the right tools for the job is important, as well. It's important to keep your hobby knives sharp, as a dull blade will wander and not cut properly. Also, keep a first-aid kit nearby (don't ask 🙂).

Using the right glue for your materials is important as well. PVA/wood glue is good for wood, cardboard and paper. It also dries clear, so I usually use it to stick window glazing in place. Plastic weld cement works on plastic only. Cyanoacrylate adhesive, or CA, is good for sticking anything to anything (including fingers). However, it'll turn clear parts cloudy, hence why I use PVA for those instead. (It also makes them easier to replace if they get cracked or marked.)

It's worth buying some copper craft wire, also known as 'beading wire'. I've made dozens of handrails, grab irons and other bits from it over the years. It's easily found on sites like eBay, and I keep a few different thicknesses of it in stock.

If you're using DCC, make sure to leave space for the electronics - decoder, speaker and keepalive module (if applicable). Also consider if you're going to put lights in the model and where they're going to go.

Finally, this sort of thing takes practice. I've got a 'graveyard' of failed projects, but each of these still taught me something.