RECIPE: Mochi Doughnuts (From Win Son Presents A Taiwanese American Cookbook by Josh Ku, Trigg Brown, and Cathy Erway)
Taiwan is famous for Q or QQ textures, which may be best translated as “Bouncy” or “Springy.” Think boba, gummy bears, and mochi, a sticky rice treat popular throughout East Asia. These doughnuts are made with sticky rice flour for a chewy bite that stretches in a very Q way. Mochi doughnuts are definitely a thing in Taiwan, and Danielle really gravitated to the ones she sampled throughout Taiwan, having made many fried doughnuts fresh to order in her time at Craft, working under doughnut and overall pastry legend Karen DeMasco.
In Tainan, we also sampled mochi doughnuts made with millet flour in addition to sticky rice flour, and Danielle was eager to start recipe-testing as soon as she returned. She landed on this formula that’s satisfyingly QQ, delicious, and also completely gluten-free. Once they’re out of the fryer, they can be coated with sugar and your choice of additional seasonings—at Win Son Bakery, we love a classic sugar and cinnamon topping, but you can add to yours some toasted and ground black sesame seeds, ground black cardamom, ground ginger, and any other spices you love. Or just toss them with sugar—sometimes that’s all you need.
Makes about 12
INGREDIENTS
FOR THE BATTER:
5 cups (800 g) glutinous rice flour
1½ cups (165 g) millet flour
12⁄3 cups (335 g) sugar
1⁄3 cup (65 g) baking powder
3 tablespoons salt
3 cups (720 ml) whole milk
1 cup (225 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
6 eggs
FOR SHAPING AND FRYING:
2 quarts (2 L) neutral oil for frying, such as soybean
1/4 cup (40 g) glutinous rice flour, plus more for cutting out the donuts
TO FINISH:
1 cup (200 g) sugar
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon (optional)
MAKE THE BATTER: In the bowl of a stand mixer, combine all of the ingredients for the batter and mix with the paddle attachment until a smooth dough forms. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 3 hours or overnight.
SHAPE AND FRY THE DOUGH: In a fryer or Dutch oven, preheat the oil to 325°F (165°C), when measured with a candy thermometer.
Sprinkle 1/4 cup (40 g) rice flour on a flat surface and on top of the dough and roll it out until it’s about ½ inch (12 mm) thick. Cut doughnuts about 3 inches (7.5 cm) in diameter using a doughnut cutter, concentric cookie cutters, or a drinking glass and a shot glass, flouring the cutters to avoid sticking. Combine the leftover pieces and roll out the dough again into a ½-inch-thick (12 mm) layer as many times as possible, to create as many doughnuts as you can.
Work in batches so as not to overcrowd the fryer. Once the oil is up to temperature, gently place as many doughnuts as will comfortably fit into the oil and allow to fry for 3 minutes before carefully turning them over. Fry the other side for 3 minutes and drain on a cooling rack with something underneath to catch any excess oil.
To finish, on a plate, mix the sugar and cinnamon, if using. Toss the doughnuts with the mixture and serve immediately.
A modern, brashly flavorful guide to cooking Taiwanese-American food, from Brooklyn’s lauded Win Son, Win Son Bakery, and Cathy Erway, celebrated writer and expert on the cuisine.
Josh Ku, born in Queens to parents from southern Taiwan, and Trigg Brown, a native Virginian whose mentor was a Taiwanese-American chef, forged a friendship over food—specifically, excellent tsang ying tou, or "flies’ head," a dish of chopped budding chives kissed with pork fat. Their obsession with Taiwanese food and culture propelled them to open Win Son together in 2016. The East Williamsburg restaurant quickly established itself as a destination and often incurs long waits for their vibrant and flavorful Taiwanese-American cuisine.
Ku and Brown have teamed up with Cathy Erway, Taiwanese food expert and celebrated writer, to create this book which explores and celebrates the cuisine of Taiwan and its ever-simmering pot of creative influences. Told through the eyes, taste buds, travels, and busy lives of Ku, Brown, and Erway, this book brings the cuisine of this misunderstood island nation into the spotlight. With 100 creative, yet accessible recipes, this book will unravel the history of this diaspora cuisine. While featuring classic dishes and well-known favorites, this cookbook also stretches this cuisine's definition, introducing new dishes with brazen twists that are fun, flavorful, and decidedly American-born in style.
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