#winter sewing

[anielskaaniela]

link

[professorpski]

BurdaStyle October 2022

The mod dress in a bold print of greens, reds and creams illustrates the principle that a print can obliterate  details in a garment because you can’t make them out easily. Dress 121 A  has an interesting neckline created by a front center seam and then a band that creates a kind of keyhole at the top. The dress flares slightly towards the hemline while bust darts fit it to the body, and the set-in sleeves are pleated where the meet the cuffs. That neckline will have more of an impact in a solid-color.

Another interesting detail appears in the Blouse 129 which comes in plus sizes. The sleeves, which are gathered at the shoulder and ruffled at the hemline, contain an inset of a sheer fabric as well. While they did it in a bold red and a sheer print, you can imagine all kinds of combinations of solid with sheer fabrics. I can imagine a regal gold satin with a sheer fabric to match for evening wear.

Coat 122 in beige is one of their Designer Styles, but it seems to lack front  buttons save the one added at the lapel, so it is for wearing in warmer climates. A double-breasted coat with buttons is your best option for really cold weather.

Coat 108 is a Masterpiece item which means something that takes time and skill that you will want to wear for years. Here that means matching the large plaid and putting in welt pockets, adding a full lining, etc.  The other Masterpiece items are the long vest, Gilet 114 for which there is a full sewing lesson, the short Jacket 109 and the Jacket 130 which comes in plus sizes and has asymmetrical zipper. 

The other full sewing lesson is for the miniskirt 116 which has no waistband but an exterior belt. Otherwise the sewing instructions are un-illustrated although certain techniques are explained with illustrations in the Glossary. As usual, you need to copy tracings of the patterns, which are all included in multiple sizes, on the sheets there they are printed on top of one another using different colored lines. This means you spend time but not so much money for a fair number of patterns. The dog stuff includes, a bone, a blanket, a collar, lead, and bandana, plus a bag to put bags in, or you could use your pockets like I do. ;-)

You can find it you local sewing store, local newsstand or bookstore or onlinehere: https://www.burdastyle.com/subscription-burda-style.html

[chubbysewcialist]

This is a silver velour or stretch velvet that I got from Sly Fox Fabrics *last* winter before that flareup started. It was going to be a cardigan, now I'm not sure if I'm going to use the commmercial pattern I was planning on, or draft my own, or just use my slopers to adjust the commercial pattern. Depends on how far I get with my drafting, I guess? But ultimately I don't want this sitting sad and unused in my stash again until *next* summer :P I still have a couple other UFOs outstanding from that SFF order. Will try to get to work on those before all the new stuff, bc the UFO box is pretty full.

[professorpski]

The Humble Buff: The Best Easy Thing I Ever Sewed

A buff is like a turtleneck without the rest of the shirt, but much longer. The result is a very easy project that will make you very happy on chilly mornings when the wind is blowing. It nestles around the neck, blocks all drafts, and can be pulled up over the mouth and nose if it is really horrible outside. Some are stretchy enough to pull up on the head, but mine is not.

I first spotted buffs in outdoor gear catalogues where they are often made of merino wool, and I thought of the remnants of Polartech Polar Fleece that I had after making some stretchy leggings. It has lots of stretch and is soft on one side and has a plain knitting on the other.

After some experimentation, which consisted of measuring my head, my husband’s head as he got one too, gauging the stretch of the fabric, and figuring out how narrow I could make this, I came up with 20 inches long, then 19″ around plus a small seam allowance for my head. Smaller heads will be ok with less, larger ones need more. I did not even hem this, simply putting the selvedge at the top edge.

Yes, I know lots of people like knitted cowls, and some cowls are cut close to the neck, but really nothing beats this project for simplicity and warmth. Of course, this is a sporty look as you have to pull it over your head like a turtleneck. I wear mine while running my dogs. 

I get my Polartech fabrics at the Rainshed which you will find here: https://www.therainshed.com/shop/Fabrics/WARM-FABRICS/Polartec-Power-Stretch.htm

[professorpski]

An Evening Jacket by BurdaStyle: Jacquard Jacket 119|Burda Style 10/21 

With the cooler weather hitting where I live, we are thinking about winter holidays and something to keep us warm while we celebrate. An evening cape was a must according to the Dress Doctors, even for the scholarship college woman who had very little cash to spare. Fortunately, simple circular capes were within the means of any woman handy with a needle and thread.

This version is an update which takes the princess seams and shawl collar of tradition and combines it with a zipper feature that the designer called a “retro biker” look suggesting the motorcycle jackets in leather. Of course, if you don’t like the zipper, it is easy enough to eliminate in favor of some beautiful buttons and loops or some frogs. Considering how many lovely glass buttons there are to choose from for evening wear, I would opt for those myself. Of course, then you would skip the belt.

Notice that they used a golden jacquard and you can imagine this in metallic brocades as well, so long as they aren’t too heavy, or satins or even silk dupioni. I always think the problem with working on evening wear is that you come up with too many ideas and not enough evenings out. There is something about luxurious fabrics that make my imagination soar even though I also appreciate a sharp suit for work.

This pattern comes in bust sizes 36″ to 44″ via a pdf which means you can buy it online, download it, but then you need to print it out and tape it together. There is a video offered up explaining how to do this. Investing in a weighed tape dispenser is my tip for the day.

Go here to find the pattern: https://www.burdastyle.com/jacquard-jacket-119-burda-style-10-21.html

[mazmenagerie]

The only reason this is my second time making these joggers is because I didn’t listen to that helpful voice in my head warning me that I needed a bigger size if I wasn’t going to use fabric with the appropriate stretch requirement 🤦🏻‍♀️

Lesson learned? Masaaaybee…

Good thing I got a bunch of this fabric on clearance. My friend who is much thinner than me is excited to be getting my first attempt.

[mazmenagerie]

• cowl attached

• waistband on

[mazmenagerie]

I have been working on this sweater for a minute. It is coming together nicely:

• colorblocked sleeves

• kangaroo pocket

• sleeves attached to front bodice

• star appliqués sewn on shoulders