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Life and Itās Limbo
Week six following the completion of my Masters studies. I sit in a quiet Greek restaurant off Dunkley Square, a fresh cup of mint & honey tea sitting besides me on an oak and faux-gold plated table. Iām uncomfortable, my heart skipping a beat every few seconds as my brain reminds me that Iām waiting to be interviewed.
Third interview in two weeks. The fourth one tomorrow. The comfortable jersey of academia that I have been wearing for the past six years has to be taken off now. Time to enter the suit-clad āreal worldā ā a term thatās been sending terror shots of taxes, rates, loans, credit cards and adult-related words through my 24-year-old veins lately.
Itās 2.33pm. My meeting is a 2.30pm. That question of whether I should arrive early or not always baffles me. I was here at 2.15pm and passed 10 minutes in my car pretending to read important updates on my cellphone, when in reality, I was scrolling through an already-read Facebook feed of statuses that donāt really interest me[1].
2.35pm. Theyāve forgotten about me, havenāt they? This entire blog post is actually being written as a ploy to serve as part of my ābusy-young-professionalā character. I have time for no one and I am an important writer who is meeting this person as an alternative option to my already busy and successful lifestyle.
2.36pm. Oh my god, as I am writing this the clock just flipped over to 2.37pm. I think the waitress is starting to worry with me. She tells me she likes my make-up. Thatās sweet of her. She probably feels sorry for the girl sitting writing about something with fervent focus when really Iām writing this.
2.39pm. I start writing an email to my interviewee reminding him of our meeting. Maybe itās too late to be writing a message to remind him of our meeting. Iāve written it, and have sworn to myself to only send it at 2.45pm (Lord forbid it comes to that).
2.41pm. My mint tea has chilled.
2.42pm. I couldnāt even keep to my own promise. The email has been sent. As I sent it I receive one telling me they need to reschedule.
2.43pm. The waitress knew this all along, didnāt she? I ask her for the bill for my tea.
This limbo stage of life seems to have me in a lot of scenarios drinking too much coffee for my own good and waiting to find out what the hell Iām going to be doing with myself next year. Uncertainty comes served in a cold cup of mint tea.
I head home to make a plate of bacon and to put on my World War 1 Planes boyās T-shirt.
[1] Note to self: Really consider deleting Facebook. The cause? I hate Facebook. The fear?Ā Deleting Facebook and no longer having Facebook.
Hand-picked (probably illegal) flowers from the top of a snowy mountain are the best kindĀ
A Polish girl's dream lunch - steak tartare & a bretzel
19th September 2013: I counted 6 waterfalls on Table Mountain on my way home.
The Lust for Wander
An interesting argument arose last week.
I was sitting with Kristen and Adam watching the sun set over Signal Hill. We were perched on a concrete slab that juts out and allows you to dangle your legs over the city.
While I sipped on a Kiwi and Strawberry Snapple, a question presented itself between the three of us:Ā
āWhere do you want to travel next?ā
Answers varied, spots between New York, Istanbul, Iceland and Croatia were mulled over. And then there was Kazakhstan.
āKazakhstan? But why?ā
āBecause I want to see things, and I donāt want them to be tourist-laden, sightseeing stickers on a map. I want them to be untouched and new and different. Thatās what travel is to me.ā
- āBut those tourist-filled, clichĆ©d spots are famous for a good reason - because they are beautiful and original and like nowhere else in the world. It would be like going to Paris without once seeing the Eiffel Tower, or appreciating a Monet at the MusĆ©e d'Orsay.ā
Evidently, a subject I once thought to be very clear-cut, had been challenged. And I had to ask myself:Ā
What constitutes travel? Is there more than one way to do it - and if so, whatās right and wrong?
Initially, there were two facets to this story. Adam explained his desire to cover unexplored areas, away from the Contiki tours and Skip-the-Queue lines, and told us that getting lost, even if it sucks and you donāt accomplish anything that day in terms of sight-seeing, still holds a certain beauty and joy that few things can give him in life. That word, wanderlust (ĖwƤndÉrĖlÉst ), which so often adorns Facebook covers in cursive-writing on a generic photographic still, Ā still holds its meaning in the fact that it is the strong desire to travel and explore.
Kristen and I acknowledged the way of Adamās thinking, but argued that while a month of solitary travel in an unknown land has its allure, and you may find yourself consumed with wanderlust, we are all constrained by the cruel earthly duo of time and money. And with that in mind, travel has to have some sense of organisation, logic and hierarchy within it. If you canāt do it all, pick that which counts to you most. Pick the sights to be seen and the food to tasted in advance, and manage your time well if you have so little of it abroad. Losing a day to being lost seems so unnecessary to us realists.
Personally, I wouldnāt feel like Iād been to Istanbul if I didnāt get to see the Sultan Ahmed (Blue) Mosque. And Adam probably wouldnāt feel like heād travelled right if he didnāt get to explore a bordering town on an old bicycle costing him 25Turkish Lira a day. Indeed, my dear friend Megan always tells me how she does her upmost to avoid melding with her fellow Anglo-Saxon travellers, in order to delve into a strange land as inconspicuously as possible. Their loud mouths and glaring guides annoy her. Thatās her only way of travelling ā to couch surf, to memorize some helpful phrases, and to never, ever take a tourist bus full of loud mouths to the Great Wall of China.
I sense that while many of us may lust for some wandering, it is important to define what wandering actually means to you, and whether you will achieve the sense of fulfilment that you are after if you decide to traverse a certain journey in a certain way. Adam and Megan know what they want. And come to think of it, until now, I didnāt really realise what I wanted, let alone that you can pick how you will explore the world.
In my case, my answer involves compromise. While Iāve always believed in safety in numbers, Iām starting to feel that there is a true value in not going with the stream of tourist-like salmon all the time. I delight whenever my feet touch unchartered territory. And sure, steer clear of the loud mouths and wander off to the side alone, but make sure you still see the Grand Canyon if youāre standing on the edge of it.Ā
A Song:
I think this is the kind of song you should be listening to when you make your next travel destination choice:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wth05NWtbZU
Letās go for a Picnic, Deer
After having recently made my home in Vredehoek, I've really been appreciating the Venice-coloured Art Deco buildings in my new neighbourhood:
Something that I havenāt been appreciating ā until today ā is the fact that I am less than 2 kms from accessing some of Cape Townās hidden gems, such as Deer Park.
It seems that if you go up Upper Buitenkant Street, and continue into Deer Park Drive East, then right into Deer Park Drive West, youāll find yourself at (it can't be that much of a surprise by that point ...) Deer Park:
Deer Park is on the edge of the greater Table Mountain National Park, which means itās stuffed with scrubby fynbos, tall pines and leafy paths leading to hidden river streams and apparently, after some reading up on it, a marble grave as a shrine to the Muslim spiritual leader Sayed Abdul Haq. Besides that, the thing I personally loved most about Deer Park is the view ā hello Table Mountain on your left, and the city bowl right below you.
Myself, Adam and Kristen, made the most of todayās summer-in-winter-day and went to lie on a pink blanket and eat some NiƧoise during our lunch break:
With two policemen soaking up some sun alongside us, it felt good to have some police presence, and while Iād definitely recommend taking a trip there when you feel like having a picnic or a hike up into Table Mountain, rather avoid going alone.
Even though itās still mid-winter in Cape Town, Iām already awaiting the heat of the summer to arrive in mid-October and hit us with its welcomed blast of rays.
P.S. I love music, so I thought: āWell hey, itās my blog, I can do what Iād like with it!ā
So hereās something to listen to. Cool.
Crystal Castles - Celestica - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JITI0FskSG0
You Mean
Itās been a hot winterās day, and youāve missed it. Iām not even sure if you like summer, but I figure, after the South-Eastersās weāve been having, with days that made my bones feel chilled and my hairs stand on edge, youād probably like today too.
Maybe.
Then again - maybe not. You could be a winter soul, like my sister. I canāt really say because I donāt know who you are.Ā
We've never met but that doesn't matter because youāve seemingly left me in a place where Iām half stumped by the words Iām looking for, and half impelled to let the words Iāve found flow. Some inexplicable affinity to being human means that the tragedy of your story disagrees to vacate my head space
Perhaps, like me, you liked the wooden floors and modest, easy-goingness of Kimberly. Iāve had a few drinks there on nights out too, before moving on to corner places like Assembly or Shack, just off Buitenkant.
A moment ago, I drove past the spot on my way home and I saw some flowers up on the pillar by where you fell. Ā
It frightens me to think of you. Youāre so similar to so many I know, and even more uncomfortably, to me. My mind processes the absolute avoidance of what could have, the anger, the goddamned pain the ones you loved and the ones who loved you are staring in the eyes today.
You know, youāre curious to me. And beautiful. And I watched you in a video on your YouTube channel. I donāt smoke, but you look so very cool breathing in your smoky wind - you even made me crave a cigarette.
You write in your poetry:
When it hits your lips and your pink, crinkled kissers pull, itās like sucking still sunshine.
You write good things. You really do.
And then, as I click out of your page, your authorās note asks me:
I just want to know if you know I mean?
The unintended missing word highlights just what Iāve realised I want to tell you, and what everyone, me included, wants to be told someday -
I just want you to know you mean.
On Sunday night, Rosa Carlyle-Mitchell, a third-year UCT Drama student fell to her death off the first floor of a balcony while celebrating her 21st birthday party with friends and family at the Kimberley Hotel.
Read more: http://www.iol.co.za/dailynews/news/student-killed-in-balcony-fall-1.1554703#.UflW2GQmlhM
Rosa's poetry:Ā http://www.writerscafe.org/Rosa
Ready
One of my earliest memories is sitting on a blanket with my father in my bedroom, and having him help me build the Eiffel Tower out of Lego. Piece by piece, I'd clip together the little structure with my stupidly small fingers, and I'd listen to him tell me stories of the city where the tower could be found and how he'd brought the Lego for me there.'Paris hey?', my 5-year-old, ever-curious self questioned.
Ever since then, and throughout my child and student years, alongside all the many, many picture books and films, I fell in love with a city I'd never seen, but that became my dream. After having been lucky enough to visit the city in 2008 for three days, I knew, in my gut, that I would return. I just had to. It was everything I had imagined and more - the architecture, the culture, the art, the atmosphere - the simple, inexplicable feeling I got when I was there.Ā
This year, the realisation of hard work, ambition and friendship led to six of the happiest months I have yet to live - I got to live in Paris. I am a very lucky girl.Ā
Be it in travels (Paris, Italy, London, Amsterdam, Budapest, Prague & Berlin), visiting friends (thank you Mimi, Michael, Jenna, Lwazi, Brett, Ola, Adel, and Tim!), concerts (The Black Keys, Sigur Rós, Beach House and Bloc Party are just a few that come to mind) or experiences (cycling around in Giverny, visiting Versailles and drinking wine of the steps of the Sacre Coeur), I have been lucky enough to experience a real overload in every aspect.
IĀ feel a transformed person ā especially in my approach to myself. The past few months have shown me the kind of person I can be and will aspire to be- and that whether I'm single or in a relationship, whether I have blonde or brown hair, or whether I'm in Paris or Cape Town - I am entirely responsible for my own happiness. At twenty-three, I think I'm learning how to take charge of that. Iām not exactly sure whether it comes down to the distance away from everything I know, to the experiences Iāve had, or to the people Iāve met (probably a mixture of them all), but I am so thankful for having experienced the last 143 days.
And now?
Itās time to return. Over my final few Skype phonecalls back home, the word 'ready' has been a motif. 'Gosia, are you ready to come home now?'.Ā Before recently, I didn't feel ready to leave this incredible city - my time here felt so fleeting and there was so much I still wanted to see. Ā But accepting that you can't ever see it all, can't ever do it all, and finding peace with having made the most of my time here has finally left me ready to say: I am ready to return home now. I really am. And it's comforting to know there is always reason to come back.Ā
Whatever next adventure awaits me, I will look onwards, and upwards.Ā Au Revoir, Paris, and thank you.
Play me out,Ā Ćdith:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q3Kvu6Kgp88Ā
I Wonder What Is Next?
In my final days in Paris (weāre under the two-week countdown now), Iām coming to realise the things Iāll miss the most. And one of them is definitely the constant accessibility and availability of cultural and exciting events at each metro stop. The other is something a lot less tangible.
There is a metro line direct from our apartment in the 10th arrondissement that takes us to the main entrance of the MusĆ©e duĀ Louvre. Yesterday, deciding to profit on the coldest winter day weāve experienced in Paris as of yet, Kris and I took ourselves to Late Nights at the Louvre.
Ā While walking around between the French Academic painters and Romantic works, Kristen and I indulged in playing one of our favourite games when at museums - creating funny captions for paintings or sculptures. Last night was no exception, and itās a game that leads to interesting and unusual observations of how bizarre some of these masterpieces can be:
Ā 'Dog-Lion meets Concerned Man'
'There's a snake on your boob, Madame.'
'Yeaaaah, nooo - about that party - maybe it's better we don't go together ...'
While the Louvre has one of the largest collections of art hiding in between the gallery spaces of the Sully, Denon and Richelieu sections of the palace, that wasnāt necessarily what made the experience so noteworthy for me. Instead, it was appreciating the soul that has been right next to me from the day we landed in a humid, 30 degree Paris, up until last night - a certain friend-meets-sister of mine, Miss Kristen Duff.
Ā If it hadnāt been for my dear friend, I wouldnāt be here in Paris right now. She was the one who approached me at the end of my Honours, and suggested we apply for the exchange. And how thankful I am for that. One of our greatest discoveries as friends over this time abroad has been that we really are more similar than we would have even cared to have thought ā be it in our approach to clothes, relationships or Speculoos. Our friends often joke that we are practically married, so much so, that the nickname of āwifeā exists for each other (Kristenās better at opening jars so most of the time sheās my husband). Itās rare to find someone who you can connect with on practically every mental and emotional level, and I know that having a friend to share in on these life-changing experiences with me has made my time here all the more memorable. So thank you Kris.
Ā Towards the end of our walk through the Louvre last night, we found ourselves stopping in an indoor courtyard, decorated with ancient Greek statues and students laden on the marble floor, drawing and sketching.
Kristen quietly sighed, both us of seemingly emotional, and while looking away from me, she asked āI wonder whatās next?ā
Ā I'm not sure. But whatever is coming our way, I'm so thankful for what has been, and await what is to come.Ā
Ticking The List
Thatās the thing about Paris ā you can quickly get used to the fact that you have a world of culture at your feet everyday. Thereās historical significance down to the mĆ©troĀ stops and sidewalks here, and one really needs to make a point about not letting that aspect slip into part of the everyday banal.
This week, in order to celebrate the closing of our course work for our Sciences Po. semester abroad, Kristen and I took ourselves to Les Invalides. Les Invalides, in particular, is a place we passed daily for about the first two weeks of our time in Paris, as it was the nearest metro stop to get to our destination of the American Church of Paris ā a place we frequented daily in the hopes of finding an apartment on their well-known, daily-updated bulletin board. While our countless visits to the churchās information board proved fruitless in the end, the walk past Les Invalides grand building made our walk all the more pleasant in those first hot, hot days of summery Paris. And so, of course, we placed it on our list of things to see during our exchange.
Yet, with time, Les Invalides somehow fell to the bottom off our never-ending scribbles of museums, aspirational travels and hopeful festivals, as, for us at least, it was not necessarily a must-see in Paris. The massive structure acts as a museum and monument relating to the military history of France ā not exactly crowd-drawing material when you have the Eiffel tower and Champs-ĆlysĆ©es across the Left bank. Still, the drawing card for this French nugget of history is that Les Invalides is the burial site for some of Franceās war heroes - most notably, the Napoleon Bonaparte.Ā
That, and the fact that we have the luxury of really giving Paris a thorough combing during our time here, was enough to attract Kristen and myself to pay a visit and our respects to the 334 year-old building yesterday.
With just under a month to lap up all that our Parisian dream promised (and delivered on), it has come to that time for us ā time to tick off our final few must-sees and doās before our imminent departure.
And it felt good to finally see the building ā that has become sort of a motif for the start of our time abroad - and appreciate it. Itās comforting to know that Les Invalides was here well before we were, and will stay, with its gold-leafed dome glimmering on, well after we leave.
People are Strange
Iāve begun people watching during my time in Paris.
On the metro, hooligans push each other around for fun, wearing their beanies low over their heads, creating a veritable tension within tram number 10 of metro line 4. As the metro Iām on stops at ChĆ¢telet, I look out the dirty window to see a homeless man sitting on a plastic waiting seat, foaming at the mouth, with splashes of phlegm spattered around his broken shoes. I feel uncomfortable. On a different day, an older lady talks to herself rather animatedly, or perhaps to the roses she is holding, potentially informing them what stop theyāre all getting off at. Three homeless men lie next to each other on a tattered mattress outside of the Gare de lāEst metro stop, a fresh pile of vomit next to their beer cans. Occasionally, a handsome man looks my way and I become too shy to look back. Interesting-looking people pass me ā a man who looks just like his pet Doberman, a woman wearing an outfit of all red. And then thereās the lovers, endlessly kissing around the most unromantic of places ā a grubby metro cabin, a street pole near BarbĆØs-Rochechouart - always pressed up against each other as if itās the last time to be together, each otherās hands in their pockets, making you miss someone.
People watching is an activity I shy away from back home in South Africa, where interactions with everyday strangers is rarer occurrence. I drive myself where I need to go, I meet with the people I make plans with, and realistically, my exposure to large masses of unknown individuals is selective. Undoubtedly, South Africa is a country where people keep to themselves for all sorts of social and security reasons. And so, the equal enjoyment and displeasure of people watching is something Iām not as used to ā seeing people from all ages, races, and varying psychological and health backgrounds - within centimetres of you on the street and on the metro.
On my way home late last night, a man sat hunched in the corner of his seat as I got on the metro tram. He had no socks on, leaving his bare ankles exposed. I could not help but think that his ankles resembled that of an elephantās foot, not only in size, but also in their dried-out, white-tinged and wrinkly sort of way. His large fingers were reptilian-like, and while I considered how he looked a bit prehistoric or dragon-like, he just sat there talking to himself, spasming at points, unmindful to the world around him. A RATP metro employee leaned over and asked if he was alright, to which he consciously responded yes. He obviously wasnāt going to get off at any point, and when I took my stop, I felt a great heaviness drift with me, resonating for the seemingly forgotten people.
Then, just 3 days ago, I found a 20 euro note on the ground. It trailed me, burning an uncomfortable heat of wrong after I placed it in my left pocket. Knowing it didnāt belong to me, and never would, I wanted to pass the money along to a previously-people-watched individual. He sleeps in a plastic-covering situated outside a school-building nook every night, and Iāve seen him an indefinite number of times on my way to the metro station, scribbling in a note book next to his tea-light candle. After looking out for him, I noticed him one evening, shuffling under his covering. He denied my offer. I felt like I had overstepped a boundary, and perhaps came to close to his plastic-covered refuge for the evening.
So, this morning, with the 20-euro note still burning in my pocket, I happened to pass a 10-man mariachi band in the corridors of a metro station, and, without much prior consideration, plopped the money into their busking basket. My logic for selecting them as the receivers of my flawed offering fails me, except for the fact that maybe theyāll each get a little bit more change between the group of them.
As the band continued to play the El SonĀ de la Negra, one of the buskers looked at me astounded, probably people-watching in his own way, at the blonde girl in the purple beanie who hastily placed a blue note of money in their basket and swirled away immediately towards the metro crowd.Ā
People are strange when youāre a stranger.
Praha Magic
The Gosia of late-2011 was pretty set on finishing up her Honours and planning to spend her next year in Prague with a close friend, Megan, where we would gain a TEFL-qualification and teach English. Yet, while Megan carried on to do so successfully, my life this year took a fantastical turn into the unforeseen, directing me towards a different kind of travel abroad for my Masters exchange programme. And so I find it humbling and stupefying, that on quite the whim and for 2 days, I got to see a place I was planning on living in:
Prague is beautiful. Really. It definitely has an untouched kind-of-beauty that cities like Budapest and Warsaw donāt have the fortune of bearing, as Prague was not bombed by the Naziās during the Second World War, thanks to Hitlerās apparent love for the city. In essence, whatās been preserved is an ode to the times with a melange of architectural building styles, from Art Noveau, Baroque to Renaissance and High-Tech:
Taking walking tours became quite the standard during our Fall break, and Marianna, Soo-Jin, Kristen and myself managed to take two on our first day in the city of Praha. Our pretty quirky American tour guide (he reminded me and Kristen of Kenneth from 30 Rock) was knowledgeable and informative, and showed us prominent aspects of Pragueās history. We discovered the Old Jewish Cemetery, where a 12-layered cemetery lies, filled with the skeletons of 100 000 people from World War II. Next to this, was the Old New Synagogue, where the folklore of Golem tells the story of how a rabbi allegedly created a giant clay-like being to defend the Prague ghetto from anti-semitic attacks.
One of my favoured parts of the tour was learning about Franz Kafka, a modernist writer Iāve never really come across in my varsity years. My curiosity was sparked when we saw a commemorative statue, created by Jaroslav Rona, to honour the writer. The statue represents one of Kafkaās earlier short stories, āDescription of a Struggleā, in which he wrote:
Ā 'And now - with a flourish, as though it were not the first time - I leapt onto the shoulders of my acquaintance, and by digging my fists into his back I urged him into a trot.'
Later on that day, with my characteristic curiosity, I brought one of Kafka's most famed books, Metamorphosis, and have since been contentedly flipping through the pages of beetles and complex human emotion.
Our walking tour ended on Prague Castle hill. One monk-made beer later, and I tipsily followed my friends along the Golden Path, which lead to the Prague Castle Cathedral. The lighting was so spectacular, and I was warmed to hear, in my beer-happy, that the Rolling Stones had offered to pay for the lighting as the Czech Republic didnāt have an allocated budget for brightening up such a beautiful building at night. Thank you, Mr. Jagger:
While our time in Prague (and Budapest) was swift - Ā it was magic. I am so thankful to have seen and experienced so much in those 9 days in Eastern Europe, and feel like Iāve come away with a deeper sense of my apparent yet seemingly far-removed-from-me heritage. Indeed, I would go so far as to say I have a greater respect for how so many European countries are attempting to trudge out of their dark pasts lined with Crusades, oppression, World War I and II and Communism, and are creating welcoming nations.Ā Itās some light when the world feels so dark. Ā Ā
Rockinā It Like Kremlin
Living abroad in a continent like Europe brings with it the most exciting opportunity of affordable travel to some of the most sought-after destinations in the world. This is a concept far removed from anything Iām used to in South Africa, where travel to international destinations is complex , long-haul and pricey from the get-go. Ā
So naturally, as a very lucky girl who gets to live in a very lovely city for 5 months, making the most of travelling to countries so nearby rises to the top of my list of must-dos and sees. And after the mid-term vacation that has just passed, I can happily tick that aim off.
Three weeks ago, Kristen and myself sat down and researched a trip we could take on a shoestring budget. The notion of the Northern Lights and Swedish design was high, but as tempting as visiting Scandinavia is, itās rated as one of the priciest areas to travel to in Europe. So Iāll save that trip for a more lush Gosia.
But do you know what isnāt one of the priciest places to travel to? Eastern Europe.
Oh yes, with messy exchange rates producing money notes in the 10 000s, and the lure of cabbage and pickles for a Polish girl like me, Kristen and I set our sights of visiting Hungary and the Czech Republic:
Welcome to Cabbage Country.
Budapest
āItās BudapeSHt, people, BudapeSHt. We donāt like people referring to us as pests.ā
The first chilled autumn morning on a 5-day stint in Budapest found myself and Kristen hopping from one foot to the other for warmth as we listened to our walking-tour guide introduce us to the city. Ā Walking tours, may I add, are the new iPad mini of travelling. Completely free, minus a self-determined tip donated at the end, every single tour Iāve done this year has proved awesome in orientating oneself in a new city, learning manageable bites of history, and seeing the most key sites when time is limited:
As a city, Budapest is filled with a sharp contrast between Gothic-styled Cathedrals, Turkish baths and communistic building with air-conditioners hanging between the reflective windows and grey concrete:
The walking tour also gives you some incredibly useful insights. For one, our tour guide, Emma, told us that the Opera in Budapest has world-renowned shows nightly, for under the price of 1 euro. Taking this information to heart, later on in the day and in disbelief, Kristen and I found ourselves holding two tickets to see Carmen (standing space at the top floor of the Opera), for 1.30 euro.
It was perhaps one of the more surreal experiences of my life, as one moment we were walking around with our colourful Christmas sweaters and eating Goulash, and the next, we were squished atop a theatre floor, watching something beautiful. We didnāt really need to understand the words in Opera-like French that we couldnāt follow for the life of us, or the subtitles in Hungarian ā the movement and emotion was enough to make my hairs stand on end when I heard the actress playing Carmen break intoĀ Georges Bizet'sĀ Habanera.
A mildly disappointing aspect was the cuisine, as most of the food we tasted was either bland or just not very good ā but there were moments of amazing such as trying hot roasted and cinnamon-crusted bread called KürtÅskalĆ”cs. Something I will forever crave.
With affordable gems like this hidden throughout Budapest, including ruin bars and the Szechenyi Baths (outdoor 38 degree thermal baths that Kristen and myself were able to lie and indulge in while the 8 degree weather floated above our heads), I was able to really appreciate the city as a true traveller. We even stayed in a recently-built hostel named 'The Wombat', which showed me the true quality of European hostels, and that you can really go far with your money if you try (8 euro a night, yo).
We met our fellow travellers, Marianna and Soo-Jin on our second last day in Budapest, and the next day, the four of us headed to the train station (which looked more like a dilapidated and forgotten hide-out for pigeons and aged hot-dog stands) and brought our discounted tickets to Prague.Ā
10 Weeks (and Halfway)
At some point, Iām not quite sure when exactly, the summer heat diminished, rain started sprinkling the days and I brought a red coat in Amsterdam.
At some point, Iām not quite sure when exactly, I stopped going out every single day to sightsee, and had to stay inside to work on my Masters thesis.
And at some point, I replaced buying Ladurée macaroons with homemade soup, as my 21-week semester abroad turned into a 10-week countdown, and eating a croissant everyday just wasn't going to happen.
And as always, as with most individuals I know, I am incessantly fascinated with the concept of time. In my moments of elation, there it goes, whooshing past me, so speedily I can practically hear the hands of the clock turning in my ears. And in times of missage or cloudiness, time stares at me, steadfast, watching my every move and making me uncomfortable. Ten weeks in and Iām halfway between having seen all I want to see and being ready to come home ā sounds about right when I put it like that.
The motif of being halfway relates to my larger place in life as well. My 5-year stint as a student is swiftly coming to a close, as I submit my Masters thesis in April next year and with that, I will begin an untrodden career path. There should be a Humanities FAM course on how to prepare for the next stage of my life. I donāt even know how to sign a cheque and the thought of paying taxes still scares me. Whatās a 401k used for and do I need one? Sometimes I Google the term āimportant adult stuffā, in the hopes theyāll be some guide out there, and I am always disappointed with my results linking me to sites about āmanagement skillsā and āchild careā. Ā I find comfort in the fact that I am an epic parallel parker.Ā
Itās not quite a quarter-life crisis ā more of a quarter-life awareness that Iām experiencing. Thereās this sadness in the reality that friends will part, Jammie stair-days are few and far in-between, and that having no courses on Friday is soon to be a fond memory. Having always been incredibly uneasy with uncertainty, this next era of my life is asking me to come to terms with the unknown.
And back in Paris, the fact that I have 10 weeks to go until returning to my most beloved summer time in South Africa leaves me feeling bewildered. I have the want to shout: āBut I still have SO MUCH I WANT TO DO!ā (queue the desire to go to the BibliothĆØque nationale, to visit the Grand Palais, to see Champagne, and to go sit in a coffee shop and read Being and Nothingness).
Simultaneously, I am coming to accept that this period of my life was always going to be limited, and that returning home will have its own happiness and new adventures. And of course, a part of me has already begun making a list of things I want to do upon my return, naturally including finally trying a Sunrise Roti (the fact I've never had one is abominable, I know), going to Llandudno for the day, smoking a pipe (an aspiration Iāve concocted in my head at some arbitrary point in time) with my good friend Brett and talking life, braaing (I never braai, but I hope the invitations to braais flood my Facebook events), and celebrating New Years in some non-descript coastal village with my friends while drinking too much of everything.
Ultimately, the bitter-sweetness of living abroad is indulgent and oh-so-fleeting. You have to make the most of it, and still be realistic. As our bursaries finally came through, Kristen and I saw few better uses than to book a 9-day trip to Budapest and Prague with some newly made friends from Brazil and Korea - as you do. The need to travel is innately buried in me, and feeding the love for it seemingly only makes me hungrier (haha, yes yes, and so I decided to go to Hungary).
Until my return, I have 10 weeks. And I still have SO much I want to see. I am definitely not ready to come home yet. But I realise that travel, essentially, is just a condensed form of our lives -Ā
fit in as much as you can, accept youāll never see it all, and make time for who and what you want most.
A City with no Make Up
Itās occurring to me, as the days start clicking past faster and faster on my calendar, that I havenāt had as much of a realisation about the fact that Iām in Paris, living my dream, as I was expecting. The past two months have twirled me about, gradually unwrapping their warm summer blanket from my shoulders. And from today, as the wintry air hastens my need to buy a coat and I feel a chill, I also note that I have 12 weeks left. Time - perhaps the most curious creature there ever was.
When I was 8 or so, I remember the giddy excitement that the knowledge of upcoming travel would give me. Iād start packing weeks before, carefully setting aside my favourite items of clothing for a suitcase that was still hidden in a cupboard I was too short to reach. By the time the night before a family departure came, Iād lie in my bed, rolling from one uncomfortable position to the other, my heart pumping surges of adrenaline through me until I fell into a late sleep full of dreams about Namibia road trips or my first visit to extended family in Poland.
This past July, just before leaving for Paris, and even though my suitcase was carefully laid aside the same way it has always been, I felt my past child being pressed down with my young adult. The same excitement was not there. Instead, the concerns of taking the correct documentations with me, the idea of leaving loved ones behind, the fear of being a stranger abroad, and the anxiety that comes with having such a grand opportunity and making the most of it occupied my thoughts.
After having a wonderfully insightful conversation with my dear friend Megan - who is currently adapting to a new life in Hong Kong and resonating similar emotions - we came to the resolution that that beautiful adrenaline we felt as children may be past us now. And while that may be lamentable, something has taken its place. Because indeed, living abroad is so very different to any 3-week holiday Iāve ever experienced before. The speed, indulgence and infatuation that comes with holidays is like those first couple of weeks of dating someone new. You shave your legs for every date, he wears cologne, you donāt burp, he talks nice and you both dress your best. My 3-day stint in Paris some time ago idealized the city in my mind and made me want to come backā and it is, in so many ways, a place to be romaticised. Yet, Iāve had some time now to push the veil of romance aside, and Iām starting to see a different side to the city, to my time abroad and to myself.
I thought, surely, the wave of adrenaline and childlike happy would hit me once I arrived in Paris. And undoubtedly, since having done so, there have been jolts of pure elation ā seeing the Eiffel Tower pop up between some trees on a Sunday promenade, looking over the Haussmannian rooftops while staring out of the large glass windows at the Pompidou Modern Art Museum, or even eating dinner at a French family home - my bread soaking up the sauce from the warmed Toulouse tomatoes laden with garlic and rosemary.
Yet, as romanticized as these moments are, the rest of the time feels ⦠in the most inexplicable of ways ⦠well ⦠ordinary. Itās not all Eiffel Tower sparkling lights, cobbled streets, Julia Childās recipes for lunch, and Edith Piaf on replay. Most of the time, Paris offers me dog poop on the sidewalks, graffiti on the walls and overpriced groceries. And some days, I can be grumpy or sad, I may dislike the long walks to the metro and occasionally, I just want to stay in my room and watch 30Rock. Who I am is innate, and Paris canāt change that.
Iām coming to peace with the idea that, perhaps, I wonāt have that major realisation of āOH MY, IāM LIVING IN PARIS!ā. I know that, subconsciously, I am garnering life lessons everyday and new ways of viewing myself as an individual, of viewing people, and of society. And most likely, my realization will be much more subtle, probably way in the future ā a gradual change that takes me by surprise. And thatās alright I suppose. It has to be, because I canāt seem to feel any other way.
Of course, I am doing my upmost to appreciate every second I have here, and fill my time with seeing as much as possible. Yet, the city that once had me swooned now seemingly has me swept.Ā Itās definitely love. But like dating someone, you can't be dressed up all the time, and as you get more comfortable together, you see each other in a different light. It's genuine. AndĀ right now, Iām seeing Paris, in the morning, without any make up on.
Itās a privilege.
IKEA: A Doll House for Adults
At 17, Ingvar Kamprad invented IKEA. At 17, I was running around invested in the fact that Iād never have a boyfriend, and the only thing Iād ever invented was a cool profile on MySpaceā¦
Kamprad was a mighty clever and future fat cat. Taking the best of Swedish design, he founded an international home products company that produces and sells ready-to-assemble furniture. The main secret behind IKEAās success is that they give the customer what they want, and create a demand which customers did not know existed until they wander around in an IKEA store. You never knew you needed a mango slicer or a cake tray shaped like a pony ⦠until IKEA.
Besides the famous āLiving at IKEAā scene in 500 Days of Summer, where Zooey Deschanel and Joseph-Gordon-Levitt romantically traipse about on a date, saying ⦠:
Tom: Darling, I donāt know how to tell you this, but thereās a Chinese family in our bathroom ā¦
(See full clip here: http://bit.ly/NYKsIQĀ )Ā
⦠IKEA has had a spot in my heart since I first visited it with my cousin and sister on the outskirts of Warsaw when I was 16. The blend of fine layout, design and clean space brings my inner-organisational self a sense of peace.
Naturally, I was exalted to hear that there were over 5 IKEAās on the peripheries of the Parisianās arrondissements, and that my German friend, Stefan, was heading to the one at Plaisir with some friends on Saturday and there was space for two in the car.
Kristen and I got excited.
On Saturday morning, Stefanās friend, Richard, expertly guided his Audi A3 along the French highway, driving with to-be-expected German precision and speed. The mere drive to IKEA was fun, mainly because Kristen and I havenāt driven our cars since June, and itās a luxury one does not require when overseas, seeing as public transport is so top-notch. I sat in the back happily lapping up the trees passing by my window at 140kms an hour.
Soon enough, the unmistakable blue and yellow of the IKEA warehouse cropped into view.
Ā Almost 7 decades on since its first inception, IKEA has become the world largest furniture retailer and mecca. With 316 stores in 38 countires (Iām holding out for a South African one any day now ā¦), the 30, 000 square metre shopping spaces are renowned for their walk-in-worlds designed with one-way layouts, leading customers through gigantic, modern showrooms.
Ā The best part about IKEA is presentation. Everyone is invited, and allowed to be involved in the show-space.Ā Pick a created home area you like ⦠and one that you COULD have because theyāre all at affordable prices.
Ā Sit on the couch to watch your fake TV in your potential new living room, or lie on the fully made and ready-to-lie-in bed while your room-mate cooks you an invisible dinner. Realistically, and at itās most basic, IKEA is a dollhouse for adults. And we all want to play.
Ā By the end of it, I was proud to have come out product-free, not having allowed myself to be sucked in by the consumer whirlpool that IKEA can create. This was of course, right before I came across the Swedish food section ideally situated next to the cashiers, just by the EXIT.
Stefan happily lifted a pink box and exclaimed: āThese are the best cookies youāll taste. And IKEA makes them!āā¦
Damn you, dubbla chokladflarn.