The Intergalactic Seamstress @the-intergalactic-seamstress - Tumblr Blog

#Tauriel #Cosplay #6: The Quiver & Reveal

I’ve had issue finding decent images of Tauriel’s quiver online and eventually went with this one. To me, it looks like a giant carved thorn/wood, or possibly folded giant leaves.

After looking at several tutorials online, I debated whether to make it from cardboard or fabric. I went with fabric for ease and quickness, and also because that will make it more flexible and less obstructive.

First I printed off the image and drew a rough template. I then laid my arrows on the template to make sure it would be big enough to hold them securely. The daggers also need to fit inside it without danger of them falling out.

I cut out the paper template and used it to cut two pieces of heavyweight interfacing to the exact same size. I then cut four pieces of green cotton fabric with a 1cm seam allowance all the way round EXCEPT at the upper edge where the quiver will be open - fold the fabric so that right sides are together and cut two pairs.

So your three layers should be interfacing on top of two pieces of fabric right sides together. Stitch along the upper edge approx 1.5 cms in.

Trim interfacing close to the seam. Trim fabric and notch along curves. Repeat with matching set of interfacing and two layers of fabric.

Now fold one layer of fabric over so that the interfacing is now sandwiched between the fabric layers.

Put the two sets of fabric/interfacing sandwiches together and stitch around all but the upper edge where you will put the arrows in. Try to get as close to the edge of the inner interfacing as possible - not easy when you can’t see it, I know, but if you go slow you should be able to feel your way around.

Trim seams and cut notches into the curved edges. Now for the really tricky part. Fold the quiver inside out. You may need a long rod or stick - like a piece of bamboo cane or similar should do - to poke out the little curved end of the quiver fully to give it its characteristic shape.

I’ve then double checked my arrows still fit! For the detailing on the quiver I’ve used acrylic gold paint and some permanent black marker pen.

To wear, I’d planned to make a leather belt and even bought a buckle, but time constraints moved me to a simpler method. I made a fabric band to wrap around the leather belt made for the Tauriel dress, with two small hook fasteners on it.

I then added two matching fasteners to the back of the quiver, set at an angle.

This helps it to hang at the right angle on the costume.

And the final result: Don’t mess with this elf! (If you have small/delicate ears, I suggest going for ear tips rather than the whole elf ears you can buy.

#Tauriel #Cosplay #5: The Dress Part Two

To make a hooded bodice to fit over the Tauriel dress and bring it closer to the look in the film, I’m using bits from three other patterns.The first is the hood from my Jedi cloak pattern, which is a straight forward cut out as is and follow instructions.

The next is from a pattern for a fitted waistcoat that I picked up from a local charity shop. This is going to require adjustments. The ‘waistcoat’ will be lined as per the instructions, but I’m raising the neckline and adding panels at the front that will have lacing over the top. I’m also removing the ‘points’ on the lower edge of the waistcoat but keeping the darts.

It’s not exactly how I wanted it but at least now I have the hood, the lacing, and a less riqsque neckline for my daughter. Next week the quiver and final reveal.

#Tauriel #Cosplay #4: Dress Part One

I’m using a bought pattern for the main part of the outfit ( SIMPLICITY SEWING PATTERN MISSES' MEDIEVAL FANTASY COSTUME SIZE 6 - 22 1010 A from the pattern).

But I’m making some adjustments. I won’t be making the bottom of the skirt ragged as shown on the picture but leaving the hem straight. I’m also putting a split up the side and centre front and back. Leather trousers will be worn underneath.

The completed dress from the pattern (without the front and rear slits as I’ve simply hemmed the side split at this stage rather than sewing them together as per the pattern):

To make the front and rear splits, I’ve measured halfway from each seam and drawn a cutting line up to a point level with the top of each side split. Then I’ve marked a rectangular box around the top of the cutting line, approx 1.5cms from the centre line.

Stitch three sides of the rectangle, leaving the edge parallel to and nearest the bottom hem unstitched. Then cut diagonally into the two upper corners of the stitched rectangle.

Fold back the cut section and hem the split seams.

On watching The Hobbit to get some finer points on the outfit design, I wasn’t happy with the dress as is, especially as the cleavage came out quite low on my eldest. I decided to make a hooded and sleeved bodice to go over the top, and I had to make this from scratch so will be posting the details next week.

#Tauriel #Cosplay #3: Bow, Arrows & Daggers

For the bow and arrows I managed to pick up a not too expensive ‘toy’ wooden bow with three arrows with realistic-looking rubber arrowheads from ebay:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wooden-Rustic-Bow-99cm-39in-Quiver-and-Arrows-Archery-for-Kids-Hunting-UK-stock-/282048779882?hash=item41ab6ad66a:g:y8wAAOSwBw5XRZCw

Because I used to shoot myself and I want the arrows to look as realistic as possible, I decided to fletch them myself. FYI I am not a professional archer/fletcher, and these arrows are never intended for loosing, so I’m ging for the look rather than usability. There are lots of tutorials online that will take you through it, so I’m not going to link to any in particular. The tools required for this:

I’m self nocking rather than adding ready made nocks so I’ve marked a vertical line on the end of the arrows.parallel to the arrowhead.

I used a small/craft hacksaw to make the initial cut, then a file to cut further along the line until the bowstring sits comfortably in the groove (this isn’t essential as a). the arrows aren’t intended for shooting, and b). convention rules actually require the bowstring be removed as no fireable weapons are allowed. But I’d like it to look right.

I then mark another line at right angles to the nock, then continue this down the side of the shaft. This will be the line for the cock feather - the one that should be pointing outward away from the bow when nocked (on the bowstring ready for shooting). The cock feather should be a different colour to the other two - in this case, Tauriel’s fletchings are a reddish colour as far as I can tell, so I’m using black for the cock feather. You then need to mark two further lines down the shaft from the end at 120 degrees from the cock feather for your remaining two feathers.

Then I cut my feathers to shape. This are just ordinary coloured craft feathers - you can buy proper goose, swan or feathers from other breeds of birds and/or already cut to shape/size. You must leave the shaft and rachis intact! For three arrows I needed six red and three black altogether.

Then I’ve attached these to the shaft following the guidelines drawn for them, then bound them further with thicker thread. Really I should wind cotton around the full length of the feather to hold it completely plush to the arrow shaft, but I’m lazy. :P

And that’s my arrows done. For the dagggers, I used the tutorial here:

http://www.stormthecastle.com/how-to-make-a/make-tauriels-fighting-knives.htm

So I’m not going to list all the steps here since someone has already done it. You will need foamboard, craft knives , brown, gold and silver acrylic paint and metallic pens, and a glue gun for the basics.

And these are the final result.

#Tauriel #Cosplay #2: The Gauntlets

After making the belt (http://pippajay.tumblr.com/post/158128024274/tauriel-cosplay-1-the-belt), the gauntlets seemed a bit less daunting in terms of the four layers of fabric as I already knew that would work okay (and yes, those are paperclips holding the layers of fabric together).

Transferring the stitch pattern onto them was a bit more complicated. As before, I copied the stitching pattern from the pattern piece onto tissue paper and sticky taped them to the gauntlets after following the pattern instructions. I recommend starting with the central pattern and working outward.

Attaching the poppers is difficult - hard to stitch and the fake leather has a tendency to rip, so take care. I actually made use of a thimble for the first time ever to save my fingers pushing the needle through. But they look pretty good by the end.

#Tauriel #the hobbit #cosplay

#Tauriel #Cosplay 1: The Belt

For the Tauriel cosplay, I'm using Simplicity pattern 1010 (also available as pattern 1347). I've started with the 'leatherwork' as I'd bought some fake leather previously and was having trouble finding the dress material (I still don't have any).

The instructions worried me. I'd struggled before with making the gauntlet for a Rey cosplay, taking three attempts (admittedly because I tried to take a shortcut on the previous two goes - mental note, don't ignore the instructions!!) and that involved three different fabrics - fake leather, interfacing, and felt lining. Buying the double sided interfacing and following the instructions did make it a hell of a lot easier.

http://pippajay.tumblr.com/post/156646453291/rey-mark-ii-the-gauntlet

However, the Tauriel leatherwork involves FOUR different fabrics - well, four layers. It depends if you want to use the leather for front and lining or, like me, use suede for the lining instead to give a slightly more realistic feel. Either way, it's still four lots of fabric and I'd already struggled with three. For the Tauriel belt, the interfacing can be attached to the lining as per instructions, but unless I'm missing something there's no way to attach the batting to the leather, and the batting is rather like dense cobweb (especially when it comes to cutting it. Ugh!). I was also concerned at how thick it was all going to be as the batting is padding, and at some point you have to stitch through all four layers for decoration. I have to say I was surprised and relieved to find it was easier than I thought. Not something for a beginner, but with a jeans needle and some patience, not impossible. After stitching the layers together as per instructions, I used tracing paper to copy the decorative stitching from the pattern pieces (if you use the actual pattern, it'll end up destroyed and not reusable, so not a good idea). These were then sticky taped to the leather and I stitched along the lines. Once you have the first set of stitches in the paper is held in place, making the rest easier.

After the stitching is complete, tear the paper guide away. To remove any bits stuck in the stitching, scrape along the line of the stitches with your nail.

Once completed, measure the belt on yourself to find the correct place to put your closures, whatever kind you're using - you could use velcro rather than the suggested hook and eye fasteners if you wish.

#Tauriel #the hobbit #cosplay

HOTH is this fabulous unicorn hat/scarf, designed by The Velvet Acorn, as a commission for fellow author and good friend Pippa Jay! Apologises for the slightly naff photos – it’s very h…

#unicorn #crochet

Luigi #Cosplay: Dungarees (Completed)

Last week I finished my youngest's Luigi cosplay. The dungarees took me three days in total. I used a Burda pattern (bought from eBay), and I'm not entirely happy with the results.

First up, the instructions were a bit vague and not as comprehensive as I'd prefer, but fortunately I know just enough now to be able to make educated guesses. Secondly, despite using the pattern's sizing guide and the fact that my youngest is on the small side for his age and on the slim side, the pattern came out tight at the hips and a massive ten centimetres short on the straps despite me having to take the leg hems up a good six inches. I'd say unless your kids are super skinny, you need to go for at least a size bigger than the guide suggests, possibly two (which is what I'd do in future). I had to measure and make my own straps in the end.

I used pattern B and omitted the pouch style pockets on the front and back, but included the side ones - partly because they're a more integral part of the pattern, but also because I thought they might be useful. I also went for press studs for the side fastenings rather than the usual stud and button holes. I did buy bib and brace fasteners for the end of the shoulder straps but ended up not using them (partly because of the sizing issues with the pattern) but mostly because Luigi has big yellow buttons on his costume. At the moment I'm using big press studs with yellow felt circles over the top. I'm going to look for large yellow buttons but the felt will do if I can't find any.

In the meantime, I just have to hope youngest doesn't outgrow the current dungarees before the convention though it's highly likely to happen. In which case I'll be remaking the dungarees a larger size and/or looking for a different pattern. But here's the complete cosplay as it stands currently. Suggestions for the other parts of the costume can be found in the previous post here: http://pippajay.tumblr.com/post/156953049381/luigi-cosplay-hat-gloves-top

#luigi #cosplay

Luigi Cosplay: Hat, Gloves & Top

My youngest asked for a Luigi costume for this year’s Nor-Con, and it seemed a pretty simple ask. I’ll admit I’ve cheated slightly. The hat is bought, one of a pair with a Mario hat, but they only cost a measly £4 for the pair of them and made for a fun Christmas present (saving me the job). The white ‘Mickey Mouse’ style gloves were a lucky find for £1.50 at my local charity job, but have had to be cut down to fit youngest’s little hands. I felt a bit bad about chopping up a posh pair of quality white gloves (but only a little).

For the simple green top: I took one of his long sleeved tops, cut around the sleeve and the main part of the body onto thin paper to make a pattern, then cut from some scrap green jersey type/stretch fabric. I stitched the sleeves to the main body, then stitched up the sides, before hemming the bottom, sleeves and neckline after doing a quick fitting on him.

The next stage is making the dungarees, and I’ll be using the pattern below.

#luigi #cosplay

Rey Mark II: The Gauntlet

When I made the first Rey cosplay, I had trouble sourcing some leather, or even fake leather, to make the gauntlet in time for the convention. I bought a simple leather wristband instead. This time the outfit was for someone else and I’d just bought some fake brown leather for a Tauriel cosplay, so I had no excuse. I also learned that if trying to take a shortcut that fails the first time, maybe actually follow the instructions on the second attempt. I’m using the McCall’s Rey pattern again.

The pattern is approximately 24 inches or 60 cms long, 4 and 3/4 inches or 12 cms at the widest point, tapering to 3/4 or 1.75 cms of an inch at the end. You will also need some fake suede/suede type fabric for the backing and double sided fusible webbing, something to mark the cut lines with (tailor’s chalk or similar and use a ruler), and a craft knife if you have one.

Following the instructions with your fusible webbing, lay the wrong side of the leather piece onto the non paper side of the fusible webbing, and cut roughly to size.

Turn over and iron on the paper side (not the right side of the leather!). Make sure its stuck down all over, then trim the webbing close to the edges of the leather.

Carefully remove the backing paper and place the ‘sticky’ side onto the back of your suede type fabric (do not cut to exact size yet!). Iron on the right side of the suede fabric. Check it’s stuck down fully, then trim the suede to size close to the edge of the leather.

Then stitch all the way round the edge of the gauntlet. Use the pattern, tailor’s chalk and a ruler to mark the lines showing on the pattern.

Use the craft knife to cut carefully along the lines (use the ruler if needed). Bear in mind you may need to widen the length of the cuts if you have a particularly thin wrist as the method for wrapping the gauntlet means you may need to pull more of the gauntlet through each slot.

Wrap the gauntlet as per instructions (you may need to experiment to find the method that works best for you, and you’ll probably need help).

The second Rey costume has already gone to its new owner, and she seemed pretty happy with it. ^-^

#cosplay #rey #star wars #The Force Awakens

nubbsgalore

the reed flute cave in guilin, southern china, was carved out of the karst limestone mountains over 180 million years ago from an underground river that has now settled into a lake. (click pic of link for credit x, x, x, x)

Rey Cosplay #7: Award Winning!

BristolCon is already over, and me and my eldest had a total blast!The bonus? Her Rey cosplay won Best Costume at the convention.

Admittedly there wasn’t a huge amount of competition on the day, but still chuffed nonetheless.

#bristolcon #cosplay #star wars #Anakin #the force awakens #rey

hinoneko

we all start somewhere

mizuaoi

I really wish the cosplay community would calm the fuck down and realize this.

ellensama

Yes, this, this is cosplay.

essegigi

OK so this is absolutely just…yes. The first person who ever took my photo at a con looked AMAZING, idk the character but their wig and costume and everything looked perfect. And THEY took a picture of ME, in my first attempt at T-chan from Petshop of Horrors (no wig, huge vest, no makeup, absolutely no idea how to pose). It definitely was a cool first-con experience (even though all pics of us from that con are painful to look at, haha).

jemmalep

Yes this

actualweabootrash-blog

I’m going to reblog this every time it comes up on my dash omfg

Rey Cosplay #6: Addition

BristolCon is just three days away. I’ll be wearing my Anakin cosplay again, but it’ll be the first outing for my eldest in her Rey cosplay, and I’ve made a last minute addition. The Rey outfit is not the warmest in the world, and with the UK weather turning chilly, I decided to make a cloak for her to wear over the top, at least while we travel to the con venue.

It’s not particularly accurate Scavenger garb, but it’s made from fraying sack cloth type fabric to match the style, and will help keep her a bit warmer!

My mannequin came is very useful. I tried to scale down cloak pattern A from my Star Wars patterns but the yoke section didn’t work out. The cloak is a ‘one size fits all’ which for my family means it doesn’t fit anyone at all. I ended up having to discard the yoke, pin the main sections of the cloak to the mannequin, then trim and pin the remaining segments to make a workable cloak. I was still able to use the hood, sleeves, and trim as they were, with a few minor adjustments.

Eldest has asked for a Tauriel cosplay for next year, so I picked up a couple of patterns and we found some knee high suede boots she can wear for the outfit and for winter. But that’s for next year!

#the force awakens #rey #tauriel #the hobbit #star wars #cosplay

Rey Cosplay #5: The Blaster

It was complete luck that I discovered NERF do a range of Star Wars blasters, including Rey’s. It’s not 100% film accurate of course, but close enough since I don’t have the skills to build my own or the money to afford a detailed replica (FYI, I don’t know about elsewhere but the price on Amazon UK for these it nearly double what they cost from most toy stores, so be sure to shop around!)

I figured it shouldn’t be too hard to paint this up to look more realistic - I’ve seen NERF gun customisations online before though mostly for steampunking them up - so I hunted for some advice. Below are three links you might find helpful: http://www.ottens.co.uk/gatehouse/2013/02/repainting-nerf-guns/

http://nerfguns.net/articles/paint-nerf-gun/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Paint-a-nerf-gun-n-strike-Maverick/

As it happens I have a slight advantage - a friend who works for a local models shop, Mankims Models of Colchester - and I backed up my reading with advice from her and bought a selection of acrylic spray paints (if you use acrylic don’t forget to buy sealant or varnish, otherwise your pain job may rub off real fast).

I went for matt black for the base coat and handgrip, silver for the main body, and glossy varnish to seal (I was worried matt varnish might take the shine off the silver) but you could try maybe a gunmetal or chrome instead of silver. Prepare your work area in advance and VERY CAREFULLY take your NERF gun apart, making sure to keep the screws and take photos at every stage to show you how to put it back together afterward if you’d like it to keep on working.

PRO TIP #1: TAKE LOTS AND LOTS OF PHOTOS! Even though I thought I’d taken enough, when it came to putting it back together I realized a couple of the pieces needed to be in a very specific position and I didn’t have a photo of that and had to figure it out. PRO TIP #2: MAKE SURE YOU DIDN’T LEAVE THE GUN LOADED AND PRIMED TO FIRE! Guess what I did? I was already worried bits might spring out of the gun when I opened it up, but having it go off and fire a NERF bullet across the room certainly got my pulse rate going! As it happens most of the spring loaded parts are securely fastened to the interior of the gun so it wasn’t quite so complicated. The handle grips need to come off first before you can take the rest of the gun apart. I was quite happy about this as the grips need to stay black when the rest is sprayed silver and I’d been wondering how to cover them up. No need!

You’ll also need to unscrew and slide off the barrel at the end before the main body will come apart.

Some wriggling is required to prise the two halves apart - you may need to pull back the arming section but take care not to pull it all the way back as if preparing to fire! Then lay out the pieces to paint and follow the instructions on the paint cans, starting with the black.

I’m deliberately not painting the end of the barrel so that some orange shows to prove it’s not a real gun. Once you have a good covering with no orange or white showing (don’t forget to turn the main body with the trigger over so that both sides of the trigger get done), remove the handle grips and repeat with the silver spray for the rest of the gun.

I’m an amateur but I tried to make the silver coat not quite so thorough and perfect as the black undercoat to give the gun a worn, used look, so there’s some nice mottling around the barrel and some black lines in the joints. The links above have some useful info on special touch ups and effects to make the gun look more used. Then repeat again with the varnish and put your gun back together.

And that’s it! Hope it’s useful.

#rey #star wars #the force awakens #cosplay #blaster #nerf

Cosplay 2016

I’m pretty much done for making cosplay for this year, other than a second Rey outfit for a friend, but my mannequin finally arrived last week so I thought I’d do a complete showcase of my work so far. Enjoy!

Rey: