The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

The Coat

   We're getting into the cooler part of the year here in the southern hemisphere right now, AND WHAT'S COOLER THAN BEING COOL?!?! 

*crickets*

...Not me apparently.

   Most people call it Autumn/Winter, some people call it snuggle weather, but I call it coat season.

   As much as we would all love to walk around town in a long black trench coat pretending we're NEO from The Matrix, it isn't a good idea unless the weather calls for it. Instead of looking like the dark-brooding type, you just look like the creepy-pervert type.

   Pick your coat according to the climate around you. Fabric selection is key here; a sharp coat is useless if you're sweating like a pig. If the temperature doesn't get much lower than 15C, then a heavy wool or tweed overcoat might cause you too much discomfort. Cashmere is my go-to choice for coat fabric because it keeps me warm enough without feeling like a turkey on Thanksgiving (because I totally know what that's like here in Australia).

This guy is wearing a coat in the city -  Coat City bitch, coat coat city bitch.

   This is normally the part where I go balls deep into how a coat is worn, but it's pretty straight-forward. You put your arms through the armholes and if it fits properly then, voilà! Unless of course you want to be like Mr. Wall Street up there (you don't). In fact, sometimes the coat isn't even for you. Sometimes it's what you pull out when you notice your date is cold.

"You look cold, are you cold?" "Nah, I'm alright" *GIVE HER YOUR COAT* "Are you sure?" *GIVE HER YOUR COAT* "Yeah, I'm fine" *GIVE HER YOUR COAT*

Easily the best (and only) thing watching midday movies has ever taught me.

I saved this picture under the title, "Coat Dog" - One letter off...

   There are a couple of slightly different variants in coat design, and you see them all just as often as one another. You see double breasted polo coats on everybody from politicians to naked girls who rock up at the door (A lot more awkward than it looks in movies. Especially when you're not the person they're expecting to open the door).

   Peacoats are a really cool too and probably one of my favourite types of coats. These days they come in single and double-breasted varieties, wool fabric of course. You'll find it very hard to not find a peacoat when you go shopping, which is both good and bad. Good, because you get options and bad, because you might hear the dreaded, "I have the same coat as you!" line, or worse yet, "My boyfriend has the same coat as you!".

*shudders*

   I've gotta give a special mention to Burberry and their majestical range of coats. The Burberry Trench coat is a pretty iconic piece for both genders, resonating connotations of British elegance, courtliness and refinement. I love this image with all of my heart, but these days all that comes to mind for me is a family of rich Chinese manufacturing moguls and Mah-Jong.    One of the reasons I love the Burberry trench so much is that you can create your own through a special Bespoke service they offer. That way, you can completely customise it to how you want. You won't ever say, "I love it except for..." again. Also, who doesn't like to say that the coat they're wearing is one-of-a-kind and made specifically for them.

Yours sincerely,

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

Hi Ardi, just wondering about colour palettes for autumn/winter?

Dear Anonymous, 

   There are certain colours which a lot of people would normally correspond with A/W. Charcoals, navy, tertiary browns and even dark greens work as well as they always do in this time of year, however, my mother once told me that I wasn't any good at listening to people, or something like that... I think.

   There is one stand-out colour for menswear which I am absolutely in love with for this coming seasonal change and it is burgundy. Knitwear in particular is absolutely fantastic in this colour. Having said that, too much of burgundy in an outfit is a bit much.  

If you were walking down the street, you wouldn't want to blend into the autumn foliage.

   Colour/pattern blocking is really useful to remember for the new season, especially with the access to more layers and textures you will have. Houndstooth sweater? No problem. Put a wool coat over it and a contrasting pair of trousers under it then you'll be just fine.

Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

Hmm, less of a question, more of a thank you. I thoroughly enjoy reading what you post about men's fashion because I have a younger brother who needs a firm push in the direction of 'learn to look good' and a boyfriend who loves being dressed. So, thank you. :)

Dear onlyinhope, 

Thank you for reading my humble blog, and you are most welcome! I am sure that under your watchful eye, they will grow into fine young men.

=)

Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

The Nike TN's, braaah

   One of the freshest things you can have in your wardrobe is a pair of kicks which you can wear all the time. When you go down to the shops to rob the local bottle-o, when you go for a munt at rave, or when you're bolting from the coppas.

Warning: This article is only for sickunts

   Okay, so imagine you're going to Masters of Hardcore this coming weekend and you're getting geed up for it. You've got all the essentials already:

Bumbag,

Pills,

Shirt that's easy to take off,

Pills,

Nautica shorts,

and more Pills

   What's left? Gotta think of your feet brah!

   If you're planning on going hard all night, you've gotta steal permanently borrow get a pair of TNs to keep you in check. Hakken, gabber, shuffle; whatever you do, you'll be able to do it all the way until 6am with a pair of these bad boys. Eshays.

   Of course, there are a wide range of colours you can choose from. You could go with an extremely colourful array to express a bit of personality and attract some attention, or you could go for a more traditional approach like all-black and have understated freshness - hektik.

   Co-ordinating your shoes with the rest of your outfit is something I normally emphasise, but TNs are sick enough that you don't need to worry too much about this. If you really wanted to though, you could do something like match the primary colour of your TNs to the secondary colour of your dri-fit.

   The thing I love most about the TNs is that as stylish as they are and as much of a wardrobe staple as they should be, they are infinitely practical.

   There have been countless times when I've needed the comfort and support that only the TNs provide; I would never have been able to chase after little kids and roll 'em or leggin' it from dodgy dealers in Mounty County if I was wearing any other shoes. When I hear those police dogs chasin' after me I'm gone like Usain Bolt brah!

If you have any questions, don't ask me 'cause I'll be too busy bummin' around alleyways on a Thursday night, waiting for my mum to finish shopping so she can drive me home.

Eshayz adlayz

TGM brah

[thegentryman-blog]

Hi Ardi, I have a question regarding the dimple in a tie. Is that still going on or is it old news now? If so, got any tips on how to get a good tie dimple?

Dear Anonymous,

   The dimple in a tie is definitely still relevant. So relevant, in fact, that trying to achieve that dimple has become part of the process in doing a tie for a lot of gents. 

   Just imagine a young teenager being taught how to do a tie, and his father standing next to him saying, “If it ain’t got a dimple, do it again!”(I don’t know why the father sounds like a hillbilly there, but let’s just go with it, shall we?)

   The dimple in a tie is an intentional imperfection; similar to how Islamic artists and Navajo weavers leave imperfections in their work. Although the reason behind the dimple isn’t spiritual, there is still a reason - it is aesthetically pleasing.

   I thought long and hard about how to phrase this properly so here we go:

   ”In order to achieve a good tie dimple, one must put their forefinger in the middle of the tie as it is being pulled through the loop in the final step before adjusting. Your finger should be where you want your dimple to be, and stay there until you have adjusted the tie to its final position”

   I hope that made sense.

   Oh, and there is also this absurd device. Yes, I assure you, that is not a troll. Something that ridiculous does exist. Probably brought to you by the same lunatics behind “snuggies” and “pajama jeans”

Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

The Three-Piece

   Despite what some people might think, three-piece suits are still relevant and still cool.

They are not reserved for conservative old men,

they are not a novelty to be reserved for steampunk costume parties

and as Mr Joseph Gordon-Levitt is demonstrating below, they are not out of date.

Joseph Gordon Levitt, GQ August 2012

   One would think that an absence of three-piece suits amongst men is a bad thing, but I beg to differ. Since they are not a common sight on men - especially young men - it only makes wearing one that much more of a statement. Of course, you might not want to make that statement all of the time, but when you do I guarantee it will be heard.

Like a Bawss

   The requirements of wearing a three piece don't have anything to do with your age or your status - it's all about the attitude. Hell, it's always about the attitude with clothes, but three piece suits especially require you to feel vested (I couldn't resist) in order to wear them successfully. 

   You could put any chump from the mail room in a beautiful, tailored three-piece, but if doesn't wear it with the right attitude the effect will be lost.

                   However, the attitude you select could cause your downfall as easily as it could lead to success. I have recently noticed a phenomenon where guys wear a brand new outfit (whether it's actually a good outfit or not is an entirely different matter) to the clubs which magically makes their chest inflate, makes their penis grow by 10", and cause another one to grow from the top of their heads.

   This is not an ideal attitude to have when you're wearing a three piece suit - or any piece of clothing for that matter. Instead, stay cool. Even if you know you are the best dressed person up in this thing, don't act like it - stay cool.

Nail it, don't fail it

   Before you go out and look for a waistcoast to add to your suit and make it a "three-piece", I will save you some embarrassment with a few handy hints.

   The standard waistcoat is five buttons. When you do the top button of your jacket up, the top two buttons of the waistcoat should be the only ones visible above the top button of your jacket.

   If you would like to have a matching waistcoat, it needs to do exactly as the name suggests - match. It must be cut from the same fabric as the rest of the suit, and there is no consolation prize for almost matching the colour. It would be like getting a pair of shoes and one being a full size smaller than the other, "yeahhh, it's almost right". 99% and 100% are miles apart in this case.     Alternatively, you can contrast the waistcoat with the rest of the suit intentionally. This option isn't unheard of, nor do I frown upon it. I do, however, only recommend it for those who do not have a feint heart. Being able to contrast colours, fabrics and textures is crucial in achieving success. 

Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

Hi Ardi, I am trying to find some leather gloves for my partner. Which ones do you recommend? :)

Dear decemberlee,

   Might I start off by saying that is a very nice gift idea! Coming into winter, a good pair of gloves will be invaluable. 

   I preach this all the time, but do not go cheap with leather! The quality difference might no be apparent when you buy them but it will be when he wears them and thinks, “why aren’t these gloves keeping me warm?!”

   Ensuring genuine leather is easy enough, but the lining is just as, if not, more important. It is the part which the hands come into contact with after all. Wool and cashmere is the most common lining fabric and they both work fantastically.    I like to have fun with the details, so I like this particular pair of gloves from Dents. They’re lined with Rabbit, which is a nice little twist from the usual sheep’s fleece. Dents is a very reputable brand as well, so If I were to recommend a single pair it would be these.

Available from MR PORTER

   Other noteworthy brands you might want to check out are Mulberry and Gucci, because they both have very high quality leather products. I can also tell you from my own experiences that the products last you a very long time.

Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

The Hair

   I learnt a lot of things during my time as a hairdresser. I learnt how to cut hair, how to tactfully convince people I wasn't gay, how to apply foils and how to treat the bleach burns which usually came with it.

   Don't get me wrong, those are all useful skills to have, but one of the most valuable things I learnt was how trends fade like fake tan at a music festival.

   After a few years I learnt that although specific hairstyles come in and out of trend, a haircut which is neat, tidy and well-kept, will always look good. 

   Sadly, It seems to be the norm for young guys to pass out in their backyards and let their drunk friend run over the side of their heads with the lawn mower - or at least look like they did. The amount of times I have said, "get a haircut" to people while I was out and about would make my grandfather very proud.

Finding, "The One"

   First and foremost, you need to find your hairdresser. Not, a hairdresser - your hairdresser. The difference (yes, there is one) becomes apparent when you look at getting a haircut as an enjoyable task as opposed to a chore. Your hairdresser will be there through thick and thin; through various jobs, birthdays and many crazy-eyed girlfriends - don't take them for granted.    While you're looking for a hairdresser, there is a good chance you will have to go through a few in order to find the right one. Since your hair only grows ever so fast, it becomes a process.

Remember, it isn't called a haircut for nothing. You can only do certain things with hair and magically making it appear (at least, not quickly) isn't one of them.

   Location and convenience are both worth thinking about when it comes to deciding who the caretaker of your hair will be.

   I know it sounds like I'm making a bigger deal of this all than it is, but once you find the right person/place, you won't have to think about it ever again. Imagine calling up to book a haircut and they know who you are, who your hairdresser is and what time you like to come in. Imagine, going in to get your haircut, being able to say, "the usual" and they know exactly what you want.

   Also, make sure you get along with your hairdresser. Whether it's Joe from the Barber Shop down the road or Jean-Luc, international hair wizard, a good relationship goes a long way. A bad haircut is usually blamed on the hairdresser not knowing what you want. Poor communication is an easy first step down a spiral of disappointment so avoid it by establishing a good rapport with the person who's holding a pair of sharp scissors near your face.

Maintenance

   It's one thing to buy a brand new Porsche, but it's another thing to maintain it. A similar principle applies to your hair. We all love it when our hair is freshly cut and we look sharper than a razor blade, but I'm sure you all know the feeling when your hair is overdue for a haircut and you fiddle with it endlessly while your in public in an attempt to recapture its previous splendour. 

   Maintenance is important.

   The average interval between haircuts for most guys is about six weeks. Of course, this should be adjusted to your own personal growth levels. If you're as unfortunate as me and need to get your hair cut every four weeks, it becomes even more important for you to like your hairdresser because if you're going in every month and you don't like them...

    This is especially the case for those who opt for a haircut which involves blending really short areas into longer ones. If the short areas look like a floor rug, your hair become untidy and loses it's appeal. 

Home Care

   Unfortunately, most of us can't have an in-house personal hairdresser who is able to do our hair every morning. This is where home care - shampoo, conditioner, styling products - comes in. 

   With regards to shampoo and conditioning (yes, you need to do both), ask your hairdresser about which products would best for your hair. He/she is the one who's job requires them to come into contact with your head every few weeks, so they will know what's best for your hair.     Some guys like to shampoo and condition every day, and some like to do it every few days. Ideally, I would recommend having at least an "off-day" in between washes. Why? To cut a long story short, your scalp generates natural oils which transfer through to your hair. Despite any bad connotations you may have, these oils are good. The problems arise when you have either too much or not enough natural oil going through your hair. Ever wonder why your hair won't sit right after you wash it? It's because the shampoo and conditioning process takes away those natural oils. This is especially important to remember for those of you who have longer hair and like to have it sitting in a particular way.

   Another important part of home care is the styling products you use. Now, as awesome as hair gel was during the boy-band filled days of the 90s and early 00s, nobody actually uses hair gel anymore. 

Rookie mistake #8492 - Overloading on products in the morning will make you look like you're trying too hard. Less is more.

   Various forms of waxes, clays and pomades have come into light because they are light and don't leave unsightly residue. Some of the products are heavier so you don't need to use much in order to achieve the full effect .The less time we spend on our hair in the morning, the better. Even then, most of us want to look as if we didn't spend any time on our hair in the mornings.

Shame List

                         I might have to retract my lawn mower comment, because a lawn mower could probably do a better job than this.

Having a new-age chonmage does not mean you are a samurai. 

I don't think even buzzards would nest in that. Russell Brand keeps popping up on my "Worst of" lists more and more these days.

Yours sincerely,

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

Personal Styling!

The Gentry Man is more than just a weekly article! I have finally added a page on the website about personal styling and shopping sessions. Included are costs and details of the packages. Also, if you know of anybody who you think needs The Gentry Man's services, please forward my details on to them or even get them a personal shopping package! http://www.thegentryman.com/Styling =) Yours sincerely,  The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

Dress Code: University Edition - Part 2: The Ladies

As promised, here is part two of the university dress code article. Written by Amalia Cole from mülü, I am sure you will learn a lot! If you have any questions with regards to dressing at university, feel free to post them here and she will personally answer them herself.

So without further ado...

  University, college, or whatever title you give your place of learning, is the best arena for someone to express their true personal style. In saying this, there are definitely some guidelines to be followed. You want to avoid looking like someone who spent three hours getting ready for two hours of learning, and instead look effortless while gaining respect for yo' style!

Here are my simple tips and tricks for effortless university style:

The Bag

By investing in the perfect bag, you not only benefit through practicality (i.e. your bag not breaking in the middle of campus, books flying everywhere - personal experience) but also the bag completes the outfit. A simple leather satchel, hold-all or bowler bag is perfect. Choose a neutral colour that will go with everything, so your outfits are not restricted by your accessory - black, brown, tan or grey. A bag like this also adds a certain elegance, which can be easily lost in university style.

The Loungewear

Loungewear is so easy to pull off with style if you put the right pieces together. So, if you are a person who loves to dress for comfort, you can find a happy medium. Take for example the outfit below. A utility track pant is perfect as it does not look at all like your "trackie dacks" out of your boyfriend's wardrobe. By tucking in a simple tee, you look put together while still staying true to the loungewear style.  Tip: Remember my advice about the bag, it would be the finishing touch that would allow this outfit to look like a girl-on-the-go while remaining effortless.

The Denim

The go-to for students, this wardrobe staple is easy to get wrong. Whether distressed, coloured, skinny or boyfriend style…jeans and shorts are always a goodie for uni wear - great for effortless style. In saying this, fit of your denim can make or break an outfit. Make sure if you're wearing denim shorts, they aren't too short or too tight - remember you are at a place of learning not a festival. The same goes for jeans. I recommend a high-waisted fit as they are comfortable, timeless and are best for avoiding any sort of wardrobe slip-ups. People also forget about the denim shirt, something that should be in every stylish wardrobe. The type of shirt is up to your personal style, but these go with absolutely everything, are perfect for the in-between months and fit perfectly with the university culture.

And lastly,

The Dress

Some people try to avoid wearing dresses for uni in fear of looking too formal. In saying that, if you've seen it at a club, it's probably not suitable for university. Best to avoid cut-outs and cleavage, but shifts, smocks, summer silhouettes and maxis are perfect. The great thing about dresses is you can go crazy with your pattern and colour choices, to really represent your own style. Teamed with socks and boots in the cooler months, or flat sandals in the warmer, everyone loves a girl in a dress!

If you have plenty of these staples in your wardrobe along with a bunch of basics, you can really go all out with your colours, patterns and textures to finish the look to your taste. As I said before, university is the perfect arena to express your personal style, so focus on fit and effortlessness (don't forget to add a bit of edge) and you have a winner.

  Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man & Mülü

[thegentryman-blog]

The Dress Code: University Edition - Part 1: The Gents

With a new year well under way, the flood gates of tertiary education have opened and a new wave of impressionable young minds has come in. Lecture halls are full, book stores have lines going around the block and social media becomes filled with pictures of people's timetables - I still do not understand this phenomenon. If somebody could please explain it to me, it would be greatly appreciated!

A common which is just as common but not verbally expressed as much is, "What do I wear?"

We answer that over the next two days.

Yes, you read correctly - TWO days. Why? Because I can.

I don't normally cover womenswear in any form, but this week is not a normal week. I have had the pleasure of consulting a good friend of The Gentry Man in order to bring you a special article just for the studious young ladies out there. From mülü, Amalia Cole has written a little piece on appropriate university attire, including a lot of helpful tips for you to use!

It will be released tomorrow at the usual Gentry time of eight o'clock!

But tonight, we address the gents.

The Top Half

I'm going to go from top to bottom, beginning with t-shirts and shirts - because as far as I'm concerned singlets by themselves do not exist at university or college. If you have time to change the rest of your clothes, have your post-workout supplements, open your bag, pull out your phone and take a progress photo, then you have time to put on a t-shirt.

If I were to translate the dress code into words, think of it as, "Casual" but with an optional, "Smart" prefix. This opens the market to pretty much whatever t-shirt, shirt or polo you want. Two things I must stress though is to ensure the shirts you wear are clean and that they fit you. Whether it's a plain white t-shirt or a paisley button-down shirt, make sure they're up to scratch! Of course, not wearing a shirt with offensive text or imagery is a given. You might think you're making a statement, but in reality you just look stupid.

                 Malibu Shirt by Zanerobe, available at THE ICONIC

If you have a lot of shirts in your wardrobe, I would suggest separating it into a, "going out on the weekend" section and a "every day uni wear" section. Most of the time the two barely cross paths anyway so it will save you time in the early hour of midday when you wake up for your morning lecture.

With regards to outerwear, my absolute favourite item is the sweater. It is perfect for the university environment and is a staple in a man's wardrobe anyway. Put one on when it's a bit cooler, or those days when you just feel like an extra layer. Also, go for colour in your sweater; express yourself! Maroon, navy, royal blue, mustard, dark green are all fantastic choices and look infinitely better than a black sweater.

        Merino Wool V-Neck Sweater by American Apparel, available at American Apparel

Finally, wear your clothes with a casual vibe. Keep a shirt button or two loosened and maybe even roll it up on the arms a little if it's a warm day.  If you're wearing a sweater, you can have the cuff poke through the end of the arm and even let a slither of it peek through the bottom around your waist.

You don't want to look like you're trying to hard, but you also don't want people to think you're a slob.

The Bottom Half

University campuses are where chinos reign supreme. In both long and short form, they are perfect for all climates and are the cornerstone of smart/casual wear. You can pair them with sweaters, shirts and t-shirts and they will still look fantastic. The standard colour is the khaki, but recently I have grown to become a fan of other shades. In particular, marine blue and shades of green have really caught my eye. They are versatile enough to get a lot of wear from them, but they still have a bit of flair so you don't feel like an old man.

     Army Pins & Needles Chino by Ziggy, available at GLUE Store

Denim is another staple option which are great for university attire. They're easy to dress down, you don't need to wash them often and they are easy to wear. For longevity, go for a darker denim because you can wear it with more colour combinations and you will get more wear out of them.

Ormond Jeans by Dr Denim, available at Dr Denim

For those days you want to show off your beautifully hairy man legs, shorts are perfectly fine. However, keep them simple and sensible.

By simple, I mean: avoid going overboard with pockets - you might look like you just came back from volunteering with the peace-core in East Timor.

By sensible, I mean: if people can see your jewels when you sit down, they're too short.

                   Santiago Shorts by The Academy Brand, available at THE ICONIC

Again, like your shirts, ensure whatever pants or shorts you wear are clean and fit you. Keep it casual and you'll be just fine!

The Accessories

Another essential part of your university wardrobe is your bag. Selecting the right bag is important, especially if you have things other than university to keep your week busy. Gym schedules, part-time work, or even your secret life as a masked vigilante should all be considered when looking for a bag.

I have written a few pieces about man-bags and things like that, so you can check them out right here!

That concludes the article for the young fellas out there and I hope it has been of some help. Tomorrow, it's the ladies' turn and Amalia Cole from mülü will definitely have a few words of wisdom! 

As usual, if you have any questions please contact me on [email protected] and I will be more than happy to answer them!

Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

The Gentry Review - www.TieRoom.com

In this special spin-off from my usual weekly articles, I will be doing a little product review!

Recently, I was fortunate enough to have received some beautiful new ties from www.tieroom.com. Originally founded in Sweden, they have just opened a new US website and I'm really excited about it. Why?

Affordable prices - (When you get three ties, $15 gets taken from the total amount, and an extra $5 from any more ties beyond that)

Every tie comes in slim form (6cm width), classic form (10cm width), pocket square form, and even both forms of bow ties! So, you will never be faced with the problem of, "I like the pattern on this tie, but I want it in a slim form"

FREE SHIPPING - Yep. 'nuff said.

They were kind enough to send me three of their newest ties (including two which have yet to be released) to check out, so here they are!

The first tie under the spotlight is the LOKE Slim. Made of 100% silk, the navy and pink colour combo is always a killer. Floral prints are fantastic for this time of year but it's really easy to let them get out of hand. Luckily, this subtle pattern is a great simplistic design which can work with a range of outfits. For example, I have paired the tie with a grey wool suit, white pocket square and bengal stripe business shirt to achieve a more refined look.

The next tie is one from the new range of wool ties which have yet to be released! The silver colour on a silk tie would come out quite plain, but because of the wool fabric, a nice texture is created and becomes anything but plain. I've paired it here with a tweed three-piece suit with a camo pocket square for a classic look, with a modern edge.

The final tie is also from the new wool tie range which has yet to be released. This tie is a lot thicker than the one before and it is definitely a stand-out amongst my collection. I am a massive fan of texture and I love this tie for drawing attention, while still retaining a traditional feel. Shown here with a double-breasted wool suit and a maroon pocket-square, this is the definition of dapper.

Keep your eye out for www.tieroom.com and check it out, because I am sure you'll find something you will like!

I hope you have enjoyed this product review! If you have any questions just contact me on [email protected]!

Yours sincerely,

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

The Watch: Part 3 - Wearing A Watch

So now you know what Quartz movement is and what a chronograph does. If not, please read parts one and two of my article on watches here:

Part One - Movement

Part Two - The Complication

So now, it's time to cover the final piece of the puzzle - actually wearing a watch.

Slapping it over your wrist and locking it into place sounds simple enough, sure, but like clothing there are certain watches which are more appropriate for some occasions. There are also archetypes which watches can fall under, as a starting way to classify them.

Over the years, innovation in design has allowed for hybrid watches to come through. These watches contain characteristics of multiple archetypes and some even defy them all completely.

I won't go too far into detail with the discussion of the design types; despite having definitive characteristics in their classifications, most watches these days won't strictly adhere to them. In my mind, there are three which most watches are based from. They are:

The Dive Watch

As the name suggests, these watches were originally designed for underwater use. They were first brought into commercial distribution in the early 20th century and have since been used by military divers and amphibious superheroes alike.

Stainless Steel banded.

Rotating bezels.

Radio-Luminescent hands.

Alternating hour markers and numbers.

Screw-down crowns.

Deployment clasps with dive extension bands.

30 Bar or greater water-proofing.

The Rolex Submariner - If I had two of this big-faced rollies, I would definitely be very happy.

The Aviator's Watch

The definition of an Aviator's Watch isn't as clear-cut as that of a diver. Naturally, some things such as a chronograph and a GMT hand would be extremely important to a pilot, but beyond that the style characteristics are what define them. Much, much cooler than "Aviator Sunglasses".

Large Faces (45mm +)

Clear numbers

Chronograph function

GMT hand

Leather bands

Longines Master Collection - I don't think even these could make Jetstar run on time.

The Dinner Watch

The most formal and elegant range of watches. Distancing themselves from chunky watches, by instead aiming for understated elegance and "subtle bling". Jerry Maguire said, it is an elegant extension of the "the man you want to be"

Typically gold (yellow, white or rose) or platinum (rhodium)

Width no greater than 20mm

Usually a strap of an exotic leather (alligator, for example) but can be of gold or platinum

HERMES Cape Cod Grandes Heures - "Luxury Rap, the Hermes of Verses" - The movement of the hands accelerate and decelerate according to how the wearer wants to set the hours. Now that, is luxury. 

  Functionality vs Fashion

A lot of people will go and buy a watch because it does exactly what they need it to do and not a single thing more. A lot more people will go and buy a watch which they think looks nice, but doesn't do everything they need from it. Most of the time you can get both if you spend enough time looking. Also, when you're investing a good amount of money into a timepiece you wouldn't want to rush into it. Personally, I'm a horrible impulse buyer but I have never, and will never impulse buy a watch; as tempting as that brand new, limited edition Hublot may be.

If you were to follow the road of functionality, thinking about what kind of lifestyle you currently lead is a given. The rookie mistake here is not thinking about the life style you will lead over the next few years. You might be an Arts student now, but what happens when you move into full-time work as a business consultant and your Baby Milo camo watch doesn't tell you what the date is?  Good watches are designed to last you a long time, years at least. That is why you hear the term, "investment piece" being thrown around. It's more than just a selling point. The common date complication is a perfect example. A good watch with that complication will have the correct date and time through multiple leap years. These are just some of the things which justify that investment.

Alternatively, if being stylish and fashionable is your goal then coodinating with your outfit/s is what you need to keep in mind. Fortunately, there aren't really rules or anything like that which you must adhere to, but if there was one divine rule I could enforce it would be that the leathers in your outfit should match. If you're wearing a black leather strap, have a black bag, belt and shoes. I always feel very uncomfortable crossing over black and brown leathers. For all the watch owners with metal bands, what I just said does not apply to you of course. I have always found assessing watches for their aesthetic value a little difficult because there are so many variations in design and of course the complications need to be taken into account. I've found that watches which are more simplistic and lack complication work well with more vibrant, layered outfits because it becomes the understated piece in the outfit which anchors it all together. Personally, I like to make my watch a statement because it's a great conversation starter and I love seeing people's eyes drift towards the statement piece of an outfit.  Colour coordinating is a common way to implement watches into your outfit and it works fantastically. The best way to achieve a great look is to have a minor colour in the watch match a major colour in your outfit or vica versa. Overloading on one colour might make you look like a hopeful for when the next Wiggle gets too old.

So that concludes that epic horological adventure. I hope I have been of some help to you and if you have any experiences or comments you'd like to share, please email/tweet/Facebook me! I hope you have enjoyed it and of course if you have any questions please contact me on [email protected].

Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man

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The Watch: Part 2 - The Complication

The next instalment of this horological trilogy is all about complication and no, it does not have anything to do with a Facebook relationship status. We're talking watches F baby, and the F is for function.

If you missed Part 1 of the trilogy, you can catch up on it here so you aren't completely lost. 

Ever wondered what the extra faces on some watches are for? Why some watches are worth a lot despite not looking like much to the blind eye? Well you might just find answers to those questions this week.

A complication in a horological context simply refers to a feature in a mechanical timepiece beyond that of hours, minutes and seconds. The more complications a watch has, generally the more prized and valuable it is. The type of complication is also a factor in determining the value of a timepiece. Some are more intricate, and require finer craftsmanship than other. There are a large number of them, so I'm only going to cover a selection of them.

Just to give you an idea of how complicated timepieces can be, this is the Aeternitas Mega 4, created by the one and only Franck Muller. Yes, the one Bueller had before Jay switched it for a Mille, 'cause he was richer and prior to this shit was moving free base.

It has a whopping 36 different complications, and is arguably the most complicated wristwatch ever created. Amongst the many complications include:

Time zone indicator 

Moon phase indicator

A tourbillon mechanism (I'll go into this later)

Leap Year Indicator

and to top it off, the Grande Sonnerie strikes every quarter and hour, chiming the exact same notes as the Westminster Cathedral. Yep.

The unparalleled craftsmanship involved in the design and creation of this watch is reflected in it's value - a mere $2.7 million, on a good day. It isn't the aesthetically pleasing watch by any means, but the beauty lies underneath the case and in its creation as a technological masterpiece.

Why'd you have to go and make things so complicated?

Instead of going over every single complication to have ever been conceived in the minds of watchmakers throughout history, I will talk about the most relevant ones. They will also be the ones you will most likely encounter when you go shopping for your own watch.

Perpetual Calendar: This mechanism records the months in a year and a good one should also take into account the leap years. This means your watch won't awkwardly say it's the 1st of march when it's the 29th of February. There are different calendars in the world of course, but most watches with this complication are based on the Gregorian calendar, so naturally the watch won't need correcting for a good century or so.

Lunar Phase Indicator: Pretty self explanatory. It displays the waxing and waning of the moon, and which phase it is in. Commonly seen on timepieces in conjunction with perpetual calendars, a useful complication for nautical travellers and closet werewolves alike.

        Portugese Perpetual Calendar, by International Watch Company, Schaffhausen. That's swiss-time and that's excellence.

Chronograph: This has become a very popular complication recently not because of its practical use, but more for its pleasing aesthetic value. Chances are, the guy sitting next to you on the train with a chronograph doesn't even know what it does. It's basically a stopwatch. There are normally three faces. The standard chronography has a face which contains a hand that completes a revolution every one second, another completes a revolution every 60 seconds, and the third completes a revolution every 60 minutes. This can differ though, a lot of watchmakers often put their own take on the complication.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona. This Roly definitely tick tocks.

GMT: Greenwich Mean Time. This complication comes in the form of an extra hand on the watch face, to indicate what the GMT is no matter where or when (*cue Doctor Who music*) you are.

     Tambour Automatic GMT, by Louis Vutton. I don't know if they make breakfast as good as Gucci, but this watch is nice.

Skeletonisation: Complete or partial removal of the watch face in order to make the mechanisms and complications more visible. Not only a beautiful aesthetic feature which I adore, but also a way to reduce the weight in the timepiece.

Tourbillon: If you ever see this complication in a watch, you have got yourself a pretty nice watch. A tourbillon mechanism is placed inside a watch in order to compensate the effects gravity has on the overall functionality of the watch, thus leading to more accuracy. There are different types of tourbillons, but the way it basically works is through the use of a carriage (usually spherical) which rotates at a set interval. This complication is usually skeletonised, and very valuable because of it's ingenuity.

RM027 NADAL, by Richard Mille. Now you know what Jay switched his Muller for.

There are a lot more complications out there of course, but I felt these were the most relevant when put into the context of today's world.

When thinking about complications for your own watch, you could have as many as you can afford or you can have only the ones you need. The more information you have when you go looking for a watch, the narrower your search will become and the easier it will be. I will reiterate the decision of wanting a certain kind of watch and needing a certain kind of watch. Ultimately the decision is up to you, but bear that in mind!

Next week, the final part of the horological trilogy will cover watch archetypes and how to wear them appropriately. Now that we've covered movement and complications, it will all fall into place! Mwahaha

If you have any questions, do not hesitate to contact me on [email protected]

Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

The Gentry Man on Instagram!

Due to an overwhelming number of requests, The Gentry Man now has Instagram! @thegentryman If you have Instagram, it would mean the world if you show some support and follow me. But, don't fear though, not a single food photo will be taken! Instead, I will be going out on the town every day to find well dressed men with fantastic style and sharing them with all of you! No photoshoots, no Tumblr photoshop jobs, no models; The people are real, the outfits are real, the objective is STYLE! THIS IS JUDGE JUD- ...er The Gentry Man! Yours sincerely,  The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

Hey man, what about optical glasses?

Dear Anonymous, 

The recent phenomenon of optical glasses hasn’t been overwhelming, but it has definitely made a strong appearance. 

In all honesty I don’t have much to say about them, but what I do have to say revolves entirely around achieving a certain ‘look’. I feel like optical glasses are an ornament to complete an outfit. Despite being on the face, I don’t consider them an anchor or a foundational piece of an outfit. They’re more like the cherry on the top of the cake. You don’t need it, but it’s nice when it’s there and you won’t be overly disappointed if it wasn’t.

I find a lot of people use optical glasses as part of a “signature look” and that’s great. Again, I consider them part of a specific ‘look’. If they fit in with the objective you’re aiming for, go nuts!

I hope this has helped!

Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man

[thegentryman-blog]

The Watch: Part 1 - The Movement

I know what you're thinking: "It's about time."

...Wow, I am hilarious.

It has taken me this long to cover such an important topic because the universe of horology is endless and with the amount of respect I have for it, I'll be damned if I produce a half-arsed job. This is why The Watch is going to be covered in three parts, spread out over the next three weeks.

Also, I was fortunate enough to have the help of my horological consultant, Mr. Ben May on this series of articles. He is one of the most passionate horological minds I know and a gentleman in his own right. I could not have done it without him.

A man's watch is arguably the most important accessory he has access to. The importance not only comes in the practicality, but in a symbolic sense. Depending on the type of watch you wear, it can make you look like a baller, or a ball boy. If you read the interview I conducted recently, it shows that some women think similarly.

The first instalment of this series covers the most important part of the watch, but are often overlooked. It is the what makes the watch tick, tock and rock - the movement.

In an age where aesthetics reign supreme, the gears underneath have merely become conversation fillers for sales assistants to make a sale from the uninformed shopper. You don't need to be an expert on watch mechanics, but a few helpful tips go a long way. I wish that I knew as much as I do now back when I was buying my first watches.

There are three main banners of driving movement which watches will fall under: 

Battery

Quartz

Mechanical

In the mid 20th century, electronic watches started to be released into the market in order to remove the need for repeatedly winding your watch (which was the norm for most watches at the time). The battery which powers these watches is designed to provide power continuously for multiple years. The only maintenance you will need to keep in mind is to have the battery replaced every couple of years by a watch repairer.

Technology has advanced throughout the years and an example of how far it has come with regards to electronic watches can be seen in the Eco-Drive series by Citizen. These timepieces are powered by absorbing natural and artificial sources of light and turning them into energy through a specially designed power cell. So, something like a solar-powered hybrid model.

             BL8097-52E Eco-Drive Watch, by Citizen

Quartz is one of the most common phrases you will see and hear when you go out shopping for a watch. This is because quartz movements are very compact and inexpensive. The way the mechanism operates is through a quartz crystal is first tuned to a certain electrical frequency. When placed inside a watch, it becomes amplified and the crystal oscillates. The oscillation then becomes regulated, which ultimately translates into the time which you see on your wrist.

People who follow the Epicurean school of thought in horology believe that despite cost-efficiency and accessibility, quartz movements lack elegance and artistic value. Personally, I appreciate the craftsmanship involved in the creation of any piece. Whether it's tourbillon or quartz movement, if it has been beautifully crafted, I will respect and appreciate it.

                     R5.5 Chronograph, Quartz Movement, by Rado

Unlike quartz watches which rely on electronic oscillation to function, automatic watches are driven by a mainspring which relies on force and kinetic energy to swing the balance wheel, and thus move the watch hands. This is a more traditional type of movement because the mainspring needs to be wound periodically in order to ensure it continues to run. 

Nowadays, a lot of watches with mechanical movement are referred to as Automatic watches because they contain a self-winding mechanism through the use of a rotor which pivots from the movement of your arm. So, as you go about shaking people's hands and write in your diary, the rotor causes the mainspring to wind with nothing but kinetic energy.

Of course, there are still watches which require manual winding of the mainspring, but despite this, they are usually more highly valued and sought after because of the craftsmanship involved in creating one.

           Tudor Pelagos

When it comes to finding a watch for yourself, please think about what kind of watch you need before the kind of watch you want. Think about the kind of lifestyle you have and will have going into the future. I say that because watches are not disposable pieces of jewellery, they are time pieces. Time doesn't stop for anybody and you need a watch that will serve you well.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the brand isn't everything. This applies especially to watches. If there is one thing I could go back and tell myself, it would be that. As awesome as you may feel wearing an expensive Rolex on your wrist, if you're a lazy arse who isn't going to bother with the onging maintenance of one it will end up causing you more trouble for you.

Next week, I delve into the various horological features found in watches. Otherwise known as complications, these are often what people see as the distinguishing factors in the comparison of timepieces.

I hope this has helped!

If you have any questions please contact me on [email protected]

Yours sincerely, 

The Gentry Man