JUNGKOOK WORLD TOUR ‘ARIRANG’ IN GOYANG Sketch
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JUNGKOOK WORLD TOUR ‘ARIRANG’ IN GOYANG Sketch
Unknown woman, c. 1880s.
May 1st 1921 cover for the Smart fashions and Limited income themed issue.
Illustration by George Wolfe Plank
L'Art et la mode, no. 29, vol. 31, 16 juillet 1910, Paris. Robe de tussor. Tunique de voile brodée de petites perles bleues et rouges. Ceinture et cravate de liberty bleu. Broderies et passementeries de Coiquil et Minet, 17, Rue Monsigny. Imp. d'art L. Lafontaine, Paris. Bibliothèque nationale de France
which outfit would you rather wear? (1921)
left 🤍💚
right 🖤💙
which outfit would you rather wear? (1899)
left 🩷
right 💜
submitted by @ever-since-ny 🩷💜
La Mode, 5 septembre 1844, Paris. v. 29, plate 13. Chapeaux et capote de Mme. Delaunay. Fleurs de Constantin. Etoffes de robes et echarpes de la Maison Gagelin. Digital Collections of the Los Angeles Public Library
Featured Plate: 1879-03 PET
Colour fashion plate from Peterson's National Ladies' Magazine for March 1879, engraved and printed by the Illman Brothers.
"The Leafless Boulevards"
~~~~~
Description from page 253:
FASHIONS FOR MARCH.
FIG. I. — RECEPTION-DRESS OF DARK BLUE SILK; the back of the dress is made of the silk, and can be worn long if wished, or can be looped up in a puff at the back with a band of old gold-colored satin, striped with blue; the apron front is of silk and satin striped material of the same color as the back of the dress; it is made short enough to fall over a plaiting of the same material, in the front of the skirt; at the sides are lace passmenterie trimmings, which fall over a plain piece of the old gold-colored and blue-striped satin, and fastened down with buttons covered with old gold satin. The deep basque jacket is of tho blue-striped material, edged with a gold-colored and blue cord, faced with matalasse of blue, and opening over a gold-colored and blue-striped satin vest. The sleeves are trimmed to correspond with the jacket; a heavy gold and blue cord passes across the front of the skirt; bonnet of blue satin, trimmed with old gold color and blue.
FIG. II. — WALKING-DRESS OF BLUE AND GREEN PLAID CASHMERE; the under-skirt is trimmed with three narrow bands of plush, the upper-skirt, which is very simply draped, is also finished with a band of plush, and ornamented with large, horn buttons on either side; the basque jacket is quite plain, with a large, pointed collar of plush. Black felt hat trimmed with green and blue.
FIG. III. — RECEPTION-DRESS OF GOLD-COLORED CAMEL'S HAIR; the skirt has a train which is edged with a plaiting of silk of the color of the dress, and above it is a trimming of alternate stripes of gold-colored silk and black velvet; the sides of the dress are plain, with four bands of black velvet extending the whole length, and the front is of silk of old gold-color, gathered lengthwise; the sleeves are of cashmere, with cuffs of silk and velvet; the jacket is long, plain and sleeveless; hat of black velvet, with black satin bow, and long, gold-colored feathers.
FIG. IV. — CARRIAGE-DRESS OF LIGHT GREEN DAMASK SILK; the under-dress is made with a train and trimmed with two ruffles, above which are three pipings of satin; the over-dress is made quite long, so as to loop up in large folds at the back, but does not reach quite to the bottom of the under-skirt behind ; it is turned back and faced at the sides with a satin, with blue, gold and black stripes; the mantle is of gray camel's hair, trimmed with embroidery on silk of the same color, and palms in passmenterie; bonnet of light green silk, trimmed with pink roses.
FIG. V. — WALKING-DRESS OF ROUGH, HARLEQUIN-COLORED CAMEL'S HAIR; the skirt is of walking length, cut up at the sides, with plaitings of smoke-gray silk, let in where the skirt falls open; this smoke-gray is principal color in the camel's hair; the dress is made with a Princess back and jacket front, and is trimmed only with a smoke-colored braid and smoke-colored pearl buttons; long, tight sleeves, with plaitings of silk and camel's hair; square collar; hat of gray felt, with feathers of a lighter shade of gray, and large, red rose under the brim.
~~~~~
1879-03 PET01
which outfit would you rather wear? (1870)
left 💛🌸
right 💙🤍
submitted by @edwardian-girl-next-door 💛💙
Huh, okay I just realised something so I have a question for fashion nerds
@edwardian-girl-next-door also tagging you since it's your submission
In fashion plates, are details exaggerated? Because the flowers on the left would be big for an outfit by modern standards, and most calico I've seen from the mid to late 19thc has quite small details. In real life would this dress have many small flowers, which are stylised as larger in the fashion plate to show them off, or would they be large in person too? What about the stripes?
This is a great question! I'm not an expert by any means, so don't take my word absolutely. However, looking at extant garments, the 1860s and 70s were definitely not afraid to get crazy with it! Bold stripes, giant motifs, wacky plaids and checks, all of it. I think it's generally true that floral calico tends to have smaller prints, but it's quite possible that the dress in the fashion plate was made with some other kind of fabric. Here are two examples of bigger floral prints that I could find:
Chine taffeta dress, made from the fabric of an 1860s skirt, early 1870s (kerrytaylorauctions.com)
Silk taffeta dress, ca. 1860s (ksu museum on flickr)
It was also popular to use fabric from much older fabric (from the 1700s, for example, where they definitely loved big prints), which shows it wasn't unusual to have older designs and motifs on current silhouettes. The dress in the fashion plate looks to take quite heavy inspiration from the 1700s, which was a trend in the 1870s, so possibly the bigger print is an intentional callback to older floral patterns.
I hope that answers your question! Hopefully a more learned person than me can add to what I've quickly dug up :)
Les Modes : revue mensuelle illustrée des arts décoratifs appliqués à la femme, no. 71, vol. 6, novembre 1906, Paris. Toilette d'après-midi, par Ernest Raudnitz. Photo Félix. Bibliothèque nationale de France
Womens Winter Dresses, 1st December 1889.
La Mode illustrée, no. 33, 16 août 1874. Chale-tartan porté en écharpe. Modèle des Magasins de Louvre. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney
La Mode nationale, no. 37, 18 septembre 1897, Paris. No. 2. — Groupe de toilettes d'automne. Bibliothèque nationale de France
Explications des gravures:
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La Mode illustrée, no. 41, 8 octobre 1882, Paris. Toilettes de Mme Delaunay, r. Godot de Mauroy, 49. Collection of the Rijksmuseum, Netherlands.
Description de toilettes:
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La Mode illustrée, no. 1, 2 janvier 1898, Paris. Robe garnie de velours écossais. Modèles de chez Mmes Coussinet-Piret, rue Richer, 43. Ville de Paris / Bibliothèque Forney
Clan Ross, Clans of the Scottish Highlands, 1847.
Henrietta Mackennal, 1913